Brand new, my 97 ran swell. Put the boot in - go fast.
Recently it has been performing badly and getting worse.

If I motor along with no urgency, go easy on the gas, everything seems ok.
But if I accelerate hard at all, it bogs down.
Tach swings up about 5K, then drops down 10K or so, then it will pick up slowly.
Nothing really happens with the speedo, speed increases, but slowly.
Just won’t accelerate like it used to.

I did a throttle body cleaning and it helped, but only very little.
Called the service dept. at dealer where I bought and service the car.
The first time I called they said that it might have something to do with
the bad alternator that was replaced under recall.
Second time they said it might be some sensors (don’t remember which ones).
Third time I called they said it might be the clutch.

I had been thinking it was something to do with sensors
or the engine management computer.
Now I wonder if it might be the clutch. But pedal feel still seems OK,
no sudden grabbing…

So, what do you guys think, what kind of problem do I have?
(Yeah, with the car thanks)
Anybody experience a similar problem?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

How many miles? Have you done any tuneups so far? Have you ever replaced the fuel filter? Spark Plugs? Air Filter?

SuDZ

 

To eliminate some possibilities, have you done any of the following recently??

1. Tune-up : sparkplugs, fuel filter, etc
2. Transmission fluid drain and refill
3. Checked for codes in your ECU?

 

The sensors they were telling you were probably either O2 or knock. Do those sound familiar?

SuDZ

 

Bought car new in 97.
Car has been wonderful until now.
No problems, only a joy to drive.

Have had all reguar scheduled mnt.done on time - except for last, which was late.
sched. for 45,000, done at 49,000.
Currently has 49,500

This included a fuel filter replacement.
At same time had altenator replaced as part of the recall.
Also had oil pressure switch and drive belts replaced.

Spark plugs have not been replaced.
Thought that wasn't necessary til 60K?
Don't know if I have platinum plugs.

Have a stillen hi-flow.
Looked pretty clean when I did the throttle body cleaning.

Haven't check engine codes. Seems like a pain.
How hard is it?
Though I have some mechanical ability, I'm not willing to tackle
anything complicated that the codes might suggest.

To check the tranny fluid I have to get under the car and that's
harder cuase the H&Rs drop it 1.25".
If y'all are thinking it sounds like the tranny,
perhaps the squirming will be worthwhile.

O2 sensor, yeah, sounds right.
Knock sensor? Adjusts fuel mix?

Where are these located and how expensive?
Could "bad" ones be the cause?
How hard would these be to replace?

 

Originally posted by fast97maxse
Spark plugs have not been replaced.
Thought that wasn't necessary til 60K?
Don't know if I have platinum plugs.

They should but that is give and take. I mean if can really change from person to peron. I would consider trying it anyhow just to see how it goes. It might help and then you could be all done.

Have a stillen hi-flow.
Looked pretty clean when I did the throttle body cleaning.

Ok then I was going to recoomend that. How long ago was the cleaning done? Sometimes even when the filter looks clean lots of crap gets in there anyhow. Maybe time to consider cleaning it just in case.

Haven't check engine codes. Seems like a pain.
How hard is it?

Do it, a monkley could handle this.

O2 sensor, yeah, sounds right.
Knock sensor? Adjusts fuel mix?

Typically speaking the O2 sensor would throw a CEL if it has gone bad. So maybe hold off on that first. The knock sensor will not throw a CEL light however and only stores it in the memory of the ECU, this is why you need to check it.

Where are these located and how expensive?
Could "bad" ones be the cause?
How hard would these be to replace?
The O2 sensors are in the exhaust pipes. And the knock sensor is under the manifolr. How hard they are to work on depends on how rusted on the O2 sensor might be and as far as the knock sensor hope you have litle hands.

SuDZ

 

 

1. Yeah two of them can be kind of a pain but that is only in comparison to the others. I mean all 6 plugs can be changed in 20 minutes or so.

2. I recomend checking the ECU before then. I think the going rate of them checking the ECU is somewhere in the neighborhood of about 50 bucks or more. It will take you less than five minutes.

 

Just pull one or two of the ones on the front bank. If they are corroded, then replace all plugs. If plugs check out ok and fuel filter is good, then maybe one of your fuel injectors is out ? The computer diagnosis does help out in these areas....it is pretty easy to do.

 

Maybe you over oiled the Stillen and got oil on the MAF. If you loose power when you step on it...it could be a clogged cat.

 

- You should go to AutoZone and have them hook up their diagnosis machine to your car. It will save you a lot of cash that the dealer would steal from you.

- Now would be a great time to replace the spark plugs. I waited until 60k and the old ones looked terrible. I put in Bosch Plus 4's and noticed an immediate difference in smoothness and power - especially up top.

- There's also the possibility that the dealership who serviced your car screwed something up.

- My knock sensor is throwing a code, but it hasn't affected my performance. As long as you're running premium, you don't need to worry about it. I think that if the knock sensor busts, it stays in its default mode, which is normal performance. Keep an ear out for knock, though.

 

Pull your codes first

If you are not sure how to do it, check the FAQ's at the top. Your car's computer is designed so you can do diagnostics on your vehicle.
Once you pull your codes, you have a place to start. Otherwise its like going to the doctor when you are sick and you can't tell him what hurts.

Next step: purchase a Haynes Manual for your car. They run about $10 at any auto or book store.

This site contains all the information you will need to do basic maintenance on your vehicle.

Most of it is extremely easy to do. Don't pay a stinking mechanic. You can do it(insert Cajun accent from The Water Boy).

D

 

I reccomend not doing that.

SuDZ

 

On my way to work this morning I left the clutch down and jabbed at the gas.
The motor reved smoothly and the tach just swung on around.

While not under load, this seems to indicate that the problem doesn't lie in sensors or the computer.

Plus, when I had it up on a lift I saw a fluid leak on the black seal/cap on the outside edge of the trans case.
I think this is where you stick your finger in to check fluid level.


Could the problem be as simple as low transmission fluid?


I have a Haynes manual.

I have never oiled the hi-flow filter, just installed it out of the box.
Has only maybe 20K on it, if that and not very dusty.

kratz74 - good idea about the plugs

SuDz - what do you have against Bosch +4s?

thanks for the help/advice guys. I'll look at the codes if I can find the time.

 

Look around in the forums here. You will see they are hit and miss. Some people have them and say they did not notice a problem, while others suffered from worse performance, worse mpg, and a worse idle. In my opinion if your replacing the plugs to try to fix these ailments then why put in something of a lower quality?

Stick with either the NGK Platinums which are good for up to 70K miles or the NGK Copper plugs which are good for 30K miles. They come pregapped and can be picked up at any local Nissan Dealer.

SuDZ

 

yeah, a little searching will show you to stick with NGK plugs.

 

I have a similiar problem -- under load, the engine sputters, misses
or just doesn't accelearate...off load, it seems fine...

I've done A LOT of research on this, and have come to believe that
it's probably a bad coil pack. BUT, this is really hard to detect...

search the .org for stuff on coil packs, and see if people are
describing the same issues that you're having.

cheers!
FLO_BOY