1996 Maxima dies after start up
#1
1996 Maxima dies after start up
Did you guys have this problem. I live in NJ and during the winter months after starting my Maxima I put the car in reverse and it dies out. Only after a couple of minutes warming up does the car drive off with no problem. What do you think it could be.?
Thanks,
Fernando Cuco
Thanks,
Fernando Cuco
#4
It's all good. IAC stands for Idle Air Control. It's a stepper motor that keeps your car idling accordingly to the engines temperature, etc. It's located behind the Throttle Body (TB) and has a large black screw on top of it. To adjust it, you have to unplug your TPS sensors and run the car. Then you turn that screw till the idle is correct (preferably 660-700rpms). After that you just plug the sensors back in and clear the error code in your ECM. In order to clean it, you take out the three bolts holding it in. After it's out just spray it down with TB cleaner then put it back in. You'll prolly have to adjust the idle after this also. Hope this helps.
#6
Originally posted by KMax2988
It's all good. IAC stands for Idle Air Control. It's a stepper motor that keeps your car idling accordingly to the engines temperature, etc. It's located behind the Throttle Body (TB) and has a large black screw on top of it. To adjust it, you have to unplug your TPS sensors and run the car. Then you turn that screw till the idle is correct (preferably 660-700rpms). After that you just plug the sensors back in and clear the error code in your ECM. In order to clean it, you take out the three bolts holding it in. After it's out just spray it down with TB cleaner then put it back in. You'll prolly have to adjust the idle after this also. Hope this helps.
It's all good. IAC stands for Idle Air Control. It's a stepper motor that keeps your car idling accordingly to the engines temperature, etc. It's located behind the Throttle Body (TB) and has a large black screw on top of it. To adjust it, you have to unplug your TPS sensors and run the car. Then you turn that screw till the idle is correct (preferably 660-700rpms). After that you just plug the sensors back in and clear the error code in your ECM. In order to clean it, you take out the three bolts holding it in. After it's out just spray it down with TB cleaner then put it back in. You'll prolly have to adjust the idle after this also. Hope this helps.
But all in all it seemed to take care of the problem for me.
SuDZ
#9
My IAC valve is wacked..it stays on the out position all the time and i get the check engine light plus when i have it plugged in, it idles at ~2500 rpm. so i took it out..re-wound the motor and put it back in and ive been driving with it unplugged for almost 5k miles. idle is fine. but check engine light is there
#10
Originally posted by ImStockBaby
My IAC valve is wacked..it stays on the out position all the time and i get the check engine light plus when i have it plugged in, it idles at ~2500 rpm. so i took it out..re-wound the motor and put it back in and ive been driving with it unplugged for almost 5k miles. idle is fine. but check engine light is there
My IAC valve is wacked..it stays on the out position all the time and i get the check engine light plus when i have it plugged in, it idles at ~2500 rpm. so i took it out..re-wound the motor and put it back in and ive been driving with it unplugged for almost 5k miles. idle is fine. but check engine light is there
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