Just getting my front bearings replaced. During the replacement they noticed that hub also needs to be replaced. This job is getting more and more expense as we go. Almost $ 475 in parts & $ 300 in labor. Looks like my 18 inch wheels look good but cost me $$$$ in the long run.

 

I had to do this same replacement at 85k mi. Bad bearing, they pulled it apart and realized the hub was all skored up. Btw, $475 sounds VERY high for parts - someone may be taking you for a ride.

Here's what I paid for the job in Southern California less than a year ago: (1 side, only)

Parts: $148.98
Tax: $12.01
Shipping: $5.00 (picked up the hub assembly in person)

Labor: $100.00

Total cost: $266.99


Parts are Nissan OEM & were purchased from Tustin Nissan, in CA.

http://www.tustinnissan.com/en_US/

Mention you're a maxima.org member for a discount.

You can also probably get comparable pricing through www.courtesyparts.com -I've been happy with purchses made through them as well.

PARTS DETAIL:

Hub Assembly - Part# 40202-31U10 - $93.02
Seal, hub - Part# 40232-33P55 - $9.82 (x qty of 2 = $19.64)
Bearing, wheel - Part# 40210-30R01 - $36.32


I got a good deal on the labor, but even so, you shouldn't have to pay more than $130/labor per side for a wheel bearing/hub replacement. The labor is the same either way, so don't let them try to pull a fast one on you, saying the labor cost is higher "because of the hub replacement."

BTW, if only one of your bearings is failing, there's no reason to do the opposing side as well, unless you just like to burn your $.

The old saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" definitely applies here. Don't let a shop try to tell you you should do both at the same time. It's BS.

Hope this helps - Good luck!

 

How can you tell if only one side is bad?

 

To check for a bad wheel bearing, jack up the car so the wheel/tire is dangling a few inches off the ground. Then, imagining the wheel as a clock face, reach over the top of the tire and grab at 12 o'clock on the inside sidewall (side of the tire facing the engine bay).

Now, place your other hand at 12 o'clock on the outside sidewall. Grab firmly & push and pull in and out (semi-rapidly) on the top of the tire.

If the bearing on the side being tested is good, you will not feel ANY deflection or "movement." If you can get the wheel/hub assembly to deflect (or move), you have a bad bearing in there. If the bearing is BAD, It will feel like a dull "knocking" as you push/pull hard on the tire/wheel.

Repeat the test for the other side to isolate which side is giving you the problem.

You shouldn't be able to feel *any* play ("knocking") if the bearing is good.


Knowledge is power. Plus, it can save you $$$$$!

 

Unless the shop quoting the job for you has already removed the wheel bearing(s) from your car, there's no way they could know accurately that the hub assembly needs to be replaced.

The only exception would be if the bearing is SO damaged (making TONS of noise/vibration) that the probability of the hub being damaged is HIGH.*

I dunno - it raised a red flag after I thought about it, because the shop that did my bearing replacement didn't recommend replacing the hub until after they physically saw the condition the hub bearing race was in, (only possible after removing the bearing).

Is this a shop you trust? Have dealt w/ b4? Referred by someone?


NEway, do the bearing test & maybe consider getting a second estimate from another shop - see if they'd mind if u brought your own parts. Some shops will, b/c they have a high markup on parts they supply. Some won't - the one I went to didn't have a problem with it.


*A severely damaged wheel bearing may actually seize dead in it's tracks, if only intermittently, causing the hub assembly (outer bearing race) to spin around on the outer bearing surface. These two surfaces were never meant to move against each other: this non-lubricated, metal on metal, high-friction condition will damage the hub beyond repair.

This is why if you have a minor "bad" wheel bearing issue, you shouldn't wait to have it repaired.

 

They told me about the hub after they removed the wheels & the bearing. Thansk for the advice.

 

OIC.

You bet - I went down that road already, so thought it might help.

Cheers,

-K-

 

Just curious, can you tell us/me where you had it done? The quotes i've gotten for labor are much more .. some places say it takes up to 3 hours ... so wherever you got it .. sounds pretty good right about now

TIA..

 

Well. . .

Here's the thing - The labor rate I paid was actually a goodwill gesture on account of other work done poorly by a shop that caused me to have to return 3x to get it right. I don't really feel like mentioning the shop b/c I can't wholeheartedly endorse them, but they did make good on their mistakes, so I won't further damage their name.

Bottom line: My labor rate was unique because of unusual circumstances and should not be used as an accurate representation of what one should expect to pay. The parts are a different story - anyone can get the deal I got on the parts.