Does a Y pipe give you any increased low end torque or is it all in the upper RPM range. If it's all upper RPM what kind of mods give you increased low end torque. I want both but would rather start with some low end torque, I have a decent intake, seems it added upper RPM power...........and I REALLY want some wheel spinning torque off the line......whats the best bet?
Thanks
2Maximas

 

Wheel spinning torque? Yeah, there is such a thing, but will not fit a Maxima. It's called a V8.

 

Put on some 15" steelies with some crappy tires and you'll have some wheel spinning torque off the line

 

That should do it.

SuDZ

 

You could also rev to redline and drop the clutch, may want to hold on if you have **** tires cause it may get squirely. Dunno have only had mine a week.

not responsible for damage cause by listening to my dumb*ss, this was meant as a joke

 

It would not suprise me if some people went for it

SuDZ

 

It wouldnt suprise me if it spun the tires either but that is beside the point.

 

Well, I'll re-word my question, so MAYBE I'll get answers instead of jokes; there are plenty of joke pages, if I were looking for a chuckle What is the best mod for torque for a NA Maxima? I really don't want to burn the tires down, just want some lower end power. I'm putting on a Y pipe (Christmas gift) and as stated before have an intake with a K&N cone filter. Where do you see the improvements from a Y pipe? Across the whole rpm band or just at higher revs?
Off the line my Max (all Maximas IMHO that are mostly stock) is a slug. Having an auto doesn’t help any either, I realize that. But there has got to be something that will help develop some low end torque. Any REAL suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.
TIA
2Maximas

 

cold air intake adds to your low end power

 

Ok you want real answers, I have never built up a maxima engine but I have done tons of work on DSMs. Intake and exhaust are cheap and may give some gains you could also try lighter pulleys and flywheel to help get going a little faster. If you want a really noticeable difference bore and stroke your engine. You might want to try a stall converter. However, that auto is always gonna limit you off the line and not all stock maximas are slugs, I have limited experience so far but my 5spd jumps off the line, peeling out in first and second is easy though so I have to watch my heavy foot till I make some improvements.

 

get a 5spd.

 

high stall torque convertor makes you lose some off your low end power....

 

A Y-pipe adds to your power band after 3500 RPM's. You may loose a couple HP before that. Why are you so concerned about low end torque. Yes, it's nice to have, but if you are really pushing your car through the gears you will only be below 3500 RPM's in first gear for a split second. After that you will only be in the mid and high end range of your power band.

You can see a dyno of a Y-pipe here.

http://www.motorvate.ca/auto/maxima/...-pipe_dyno.htm

 

There is usually (sometimes there are crappy converters) a signifigant gain in acceleration with a torque converter so the slight (if any) low end loos isn't noticed.

 

the best thing u can buy for some wheel spinning off the line torque is a cold air intake, some 15" wheels with descent tires, and new spark plugs to recover lost stock HP

 

Supercharger, Nitrous Oxide, Bore and Stroke

Any of these will give you good low end power

 

The Place Racing CAI will give you the best low-end performance.

But you have a VQ, heck, even a 4th Gen VQ (gobs of low-end for a V6), so I really don't know how much more you want and if a PR CAI would do it for you. The 4th Gen Maxima is **MUCH** more enjoyable with a 5spd. No complaints about low-end here, as I can already light up the front tires from a slow roll in 1st if I stomp on it just right.

The S/C doesn't really produce any boost until you're beyond 3000rpm, so that wouldn't really help for low-end.

Nitrous would, though

But spraying right off the line is rather rough on the engine...

 

Low end torque comes from building the engine, such as: pistons, cams, flywheel, clutch, etc.(maybe an UD pulley also)

Y-pipe, cat-back exhaust, intake all add their major increase at about 3500-5500 rpms cause thats when good air flow is essential.

superchargers and turbos and NOS are an all around torque enhancer. from low end to high end.

 

Did you replace your intake resonator with a mid-pipe, because if you just replaced your filter box and kept the resonator then you lost tons of low end torque. I did this and it was 6 months of no low end torque before i found out that the stupid resonator was the problem. I got 17' rims and my car peels like a ****, but that was after the mid pipe. You can buy from from that frakin company or you can make one with home depot stuff. I'm broke so i went to hope depot and gheto rigged it

 

exactly.
do a 5spd conversion and you won't have any trouble burning out right through first. and no, you don't have to drop the clutch at redline. launch at 2G's, get off the clutch so it doesn't get worn down and floor it.

* this will occur with stock goodyear eagle rsa's or another set of tires just as crappy

 

Ok, I'll chime in here since this was and is still my ongoing quest.

My first two mods were the PR CAI and the UDP. That coupled with a 5sp provided 0-60 times of 6.4x sec. Back then I was running a heavy 48lb 17" wheel/tire combo. Lighten that up to like 35lbs at each corner and I bet 6.1s/6-2s would be possible for only a couple hundred $$ if you could launch it. (I still suck at launching myself)

Opening up the exhaust will negate low end. Same with the y-pipe and a hybrid or cone air filter.

I'm already over 200fwtq now and aiming for 210-225 this year.

 

What is the intake resonator? Never heard of it. What did you do when you put on your intake. I have a pop charger but I might put that little pipe instead of the box. Where is that resonator?

 

The resonator is that black square box after the MAF and before the TB. It has a hose connected to it.
I have the midpipe and it does not(at least for me, and most other) return much low end torque lost with the pop charger. It just looks better and sound a little differnent. I would believe that the previous post about the great low end torque it provides is a little questionable. It's probably in his head.

 

Contrary to most peoples beliefs, the y-pipe DOES add low end as well as top end. If you look at the dyno of a y-pipe equiped car it makes more power through the ENTIRE REV RANGE...not just above 3500.

I personally think my VQ has PLENTY of low end grunt. I have the normal N/A bolt-ons and I can start in first gear at 1000rpms....with the clutch FULLY engaged and just hammer the throttle and my car will rip the tires loose straight to redline...that's PLENTY of low end for me. Any more would be completely unuseable.

 

Here are some pics of what I have, http://www.almand.net/html/photos.html Ordering the Y pipe from budget today. From what I understand the B pipe is not that important (as far as making power goes...like 1 to 2 HP?) So I think I'm going to keep the factory exhaust except for the Y pipe, and then maybe add an UDP. Some one had a source for something less expensive than Unorthodox Racing....any one know who that is? Oh and the leather is from the group deal with leatherseats.com. It turned out really good IMHO!
Thanks
2Maximas

 

Just ordered the Y from budget.....I CAN'T WAIT to get it! Everybody here says it's such a good upgrade for our cars. Now I'm off to get some NGK coppers, and try to get back some of the lost HP. I bought the car used and I bet it's NEVER had a plug change and it's got 105K on the clock.....guess I should get a fuel filter and oil change stuff too.....Nissan filters, as far as oil, I don't know the history of the car and I'm wondering should I use synthetic oil? If the oil was not changed on a regular basis, will the synthetic loosen up gunk and clog my oil pan pickup screen? Whats everyones thoughts on that? I've seen pros and cons on it.....
Thanks
2Maximas

 

Don't go synthetic....I went at 60K and my motor started consuming oil....use castrol GTX 5W-30...best you can get for the money..

 

If you haven't been using synthetic don't switch.

 

You may also want ot check and replace your PCV valve - it's only like $3 or something.

 

Well, lemme elaborate on what I said. THe mid pipe doesn't add any low end torque higher from the stock specifications. BUt when just installing a pop charger in the maxima much, low end is lost and the mid pipe fixes it. IF you don't believe me do a search. WHen i only had a pop charger and floored it my car litereally just sat there for a second and then crawled to 2000rpm and then after that is was all good.

 

Post this dyno your talking about. It is quite difficult for a
y-pipe to add that much low end power when it is part of the exhaust and wouldn't need great airflow until higher rpm's,because that's when the air is really flowing. Just like a turbo has turbo lag because airflow has to spool up. That's why you feel a jump in power when you hit about 2650 rpms because that's when it really kicks in.
If you engage at 1000 rpms and are burning your tires then you have other modifications. Most peoples car idle from from about 600-800 RPMS. ripping your tires at 1000 rpms would mean A LOT of torque.

 

Not so, my car stock would burn the tires rolling at 5mph (thats idleing) so you don't have to have alot of mods to make this happen, First gear is really short in the Manuals.

 

i would add a mid pipe to filter, then i would get the udp and then the y-pipe. if you do all 3 things at the same time, you should feel a big difference.

 

Well I'll go test it today and tell you what I come up with. I have a 5 spd with a y-pipe, intake, and custom catback. And I've never burned out at 1000 rpms. But i'll try it and see if I can. I know that 1st gear is short and that's why you go through it so fast. But i'll gate back to you and tell you what happens.

 

He also has an ACT clutch. That maybe how.

 

Well I can understand if he has an ACT clutch but this guy said stock.

 

A turbo takes time to spool up, and so does a SC.

They don't help low end at all - seing as the stock Stillen SC, for instance, doesn't kick in until 4500RPM. Even with a 2.87" Pulley, 2800 or so RPM.

Same with a Turbo.

IanS

 

Well I bought the NGK Copper plugs today, and got a purolator "pure one" oil filter. They didn't have a K&N or I would have bought that. I got the synthetic "blend" by Castrol (they were out of plain 5W-30W Castrol GTX) and it was only a buck more a quart. I really don't know anything about this oil. anyone care to comment? I'll change it again at 3K anyway. Had to order the PCV valve, got a fuel filter, got a U-joint for socket wrench to change the plugs along with some antisieze. Do you lower the torque value on the plugs when using antisieze? because it seems to me it may act like a lubricant? Got some extra gas line for the fuel filter install (in case I have to cut it off)
Remember this car was bought with over 100K (or maybe slightly less I don't remember)on the clock, and I have no idea of the maint. history. Should have the Y pipe by Friday or Monday, and I'm going to install it myself. Budget told me it comes with all the hardware. I have a floor jack and jackstands. Also have a compressor and air tools, so it should be fairly easy..........right? Did anybody have an address for some company besides Unorthodox for a UDP seems someone around here said that there was another brand for less bux.....
Thanks
2Maximas
http://www.almand.net/html/photos.html

 

The clutch isnt gonna make any difference in wheel spin if you launch at 1000rpm. An ACT will pop just as quickly as the stock if you allow it to.

 

I guess you have not had much expierence with a Maxima clutch yet.