Add a $10 shock sensor to your factory alarm.
Less than 30min DIY job.

http://www.rcreations.com/public/CoD...e,0t,P=30.html

enjoy,
rob

 

wow thats a great idea and write-up. for once this will be money well spent.

 

thanks,

My wife finally let me have the Max as my daily driver
so I'm making changes to it again...

rob

 

And here is another write-up as well, with a glass sensor too.....

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=13

 

great site and idea but it'd be worthless w/o upgrading our weaksauce horn.

 

thats a dumb spot to mount a shock sensor, lol. Those are supposed to be mounted under your dash, not under your hood!! One rain storm and your will have no more shock sensor.

Ant

 

plastic wrap that sucka, dude...

 

Very simple and well done, but what if I want to put 4 or 5 shock sensors in the car? I shouldn't tap all of them into that spot, should I?
-Cyrus

 

I wouldn't see why not...but my real question is with both the glass and shock sensor, does this make the factory alarm similar to most aftermarket alarms, with the exception of the horn/siren, but there is also a write up for the chirps, for unlocking/locking....thinking about doing this rather than putting in a Viper/something similar. IS this wise?

thanx

O

 

I am doing all that with the factory alarm.

shock, chirp, and with a simple relay siren.

saves me about $300


D

 

hi KSU1998,

Where did you get your parts from?
I'm always looking for better parts since I want
to do the same to my other cars.
Please post links...

As for the question about multiple sensors, YES,
it's no problem.

As for the rain, I've been driving around in pouring
rain for the last few days and it hasn't got wet yet.
It's actually inside the car under what looks like a
metal awning. Mounting side the car would have been
better but I was lazy...

rob

 

I'm with you guys...btw you can find decent parts at www.partsexpress.com, that is were I plan on getting mine from

I think e'eryone should update as the project moves on!

"O"

 

Basically

If you want the "core" of an alarm system, go for this mod but I think alot of ppl also go for aftermarket systems because of the features... at least that was the main reason i got my Clifford system on my previous car. The ability to roll down/up windows, and blah blah was pretty cool.

Actually.... you know what, I think our stock system comes w/ enough options too. Can anyone recommend me a siren??? I'm debating whether to upgrade the horn or get a siren dedicated soley to the alarm system...

 

nadir_s is right this is border line rig, but at this time 8-10 spliced wires and you actually have some "better" protection.

If you have the $ go with a Clifford or Codealarm.

need4speed-> I used to do installs a long time ago so I have alot of alarm parts. I might write up a instuction form and package all the parts incd the siren and sell it on the forsale forum. I bet it will only cost you like $30 with siren not worth the $10 shipping....I talked myself out of the plan...

Thanks rob your write up will help others out. If any one wants a pic let me know I just got a dig. camera.

D

 

The top two sensors on this page, the 504D and the 504M, provide two alarm levels, warning and full blast. Does anyone know if these can be intalled in the Maxima? I'm assuming they can. I like the idea of not having the alarm go apesh*t over little things where I'd have to go and turn the alarm off.

http://www.autotechs.com/subcat12.htm

 

Remember guys the shock sensor is tricking the hood latch sensor...so I think it is an all or not type thing...unless someone has done it,with a dual stage, a sigle stage shock sensor is all you need.

The dual stage works great with alarms, but not with the sensor splice mod....correct me if I am wrong.


D

 

i'll buy some of your alarm stuff if you help me install it


Trevor

 

glass sensor is awesome - i wish i had that on my car

 

You can use any sensor you want as long as the "trigger"
wire pulls to ground. For example, the $10 sensor I bought
has 2 zones (both configurable) but only zone 2 pulled to
ground. So, try to get a sensor locally to test out or
use one someone had success with...

happy holidays,
rob

correction: else you can add a relay to use sensors which don't pull to ground...

 

Just wanted to add taht Clifford is crap. DEI just bought them and is working on improving their stuff, but the previous Cliffords haven't worked nearly as well as things like DEI. For the extra $50 I'd much rather have a good alarm if I was going aftermarket.

Back on topic... great idea. Thanks for posting so that we can all see how to do it!

 

you're right. the factory alarm brain doesn't understand a dual-stage shock. it has (1) normal and (2) alarm. no third, "mild alarm". any signal from the shock sensor would trigger a full alarm.

that's one reason why people upgrade to an aftermarket, i guess, for an alarm computer than has more options.

 

Yes, I'm only using zone 2, not zone 1, so you can save $4
by purchasing the $6 sensor (1 zone only, but you'll have to
verify that it pulls to ground).

I originally bought a 2 zone sensor because I was going to have
the car simply honk the horn when zone 1 is triggered (notice
that the horn relay is right next to the hood switch).

I didn't finish the job because I have to locate an "alarm
active" signal...

rob

 

4th Gen Maxima Alarm Beep


In addition, I am going to try to figure out how to roll sunroof open when I press the roll down window and when disarming the alarm have the parking lights come on! If anyone has the wiring diagram to the BCM that would help a lot

 

Very good idea. Does the alarm go off when you shake your car and for how long?

 

it all depends on how sensitive you set the sensor. i dont set it too hight because, i park my poor max on the street and when the junk cars like the stupid kids with there 4in exhaust come by they sets off my alarm.

 

hmmm... I didn't notice that vqpower stole my content and
put it on their website! Notice that the pictures are still
on my server. They didn't even ask for permission! Argh...
At least there's a credit at the bottom...

 

need4speed

Nice mod son! Thanks a lot. I love it very much!

I was wondering how did u know which wire from the BCM? I am looking for the wiring diagram.

 

i dont know how to use this info, but i bet you guys want it:

YEAR: 1996 MAKE: Nissan MODEL: Maxima STYLE:
| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL | WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V |wht/red - wht/pur *6 | + |ignition harness |
| STARTER |blk/yel - blk/wht *6 | + |ignition harness |
| SECOND STARTER |grn/blk - red/blu *6 | + |ignition harness |
| IGNITION |blk/wht - blk/red *6 | + |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY |red/yel - red *6 | + |ignition harness |
| SECOND ACCESSORY |blue - wht/blu *6 | + |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK |lt. green/red | - |in drivers door at switch |
| POWER UNLOCK |green/yellow *1 | - |in drivers door at switch |
| LOCK MOTOR |brown/white | |in drivers door at switch |
| UNLOCK MOTOR |brown | |in drivers door at switch |
| DISARM DEFEAT |brown | |in passenger door at switch |
| PARKING LIGHTS + |red/green | |steering column |
| HEADLIGHTS |gry/yel(L)blu/blk(R) | + |steering column |
| DOOR TRIGGER |red/white | - |low in drivers kick |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN |purple/yellow | - |drivers kick or BCM *2 |
| HOOD PIN |yellow/black | - |BCM *2 |
| TRUNK/HATCH RELEASE |purple/yellow | - |low drivers kick *3 |
| FACTORY ALARM ARM |arms w/ lock | | |
| FACTORY ALARM DISARM |disarms w/ unlock | | |
| DISARM NO UNLOCK |*4 | | |
| TACHOMETER |white/green | |ECM *5 |
| BRAKE WIRE |red/green | + |at brake switch |
| HORN TRIGGER |green/white | - | |
| WIPERS |lt. green/red | - |steering column |
| LF WINDOW UP/DOWN |blu/red - blu/blk | A |in LF door at switch |
| RF WINDOW UP/DOWN |blu/red - blu/blk | A |in RF door at switch |
| LR WINDOW UP/DOWN |blu/red - blu/blk | A |in LR door at switch |
| RR WINDOW UP/DOWN |blu/red - blu/blk | A |in RR door at switch |

NOTES:
*1 Requires a double pulse.
*2 The BCM (body control module) is located just below the radio.
*3 Must use a relay to interface with this circuit.
*4 A single negative pulse to the unlock wire will disarm without
unlocking.
*5 The ECM is located in the front of the center console on the
transmission hump. The wiring is easily reached by removing the small black
panel just to the front of the center console on the passenger side. the
wire is in the middle row, 7th one in from the left.
*6 The ignition harness wires change color at a plug. The above listed
colors show both sides of the plug.

(c) 1994-2002 Directed Electronics, Inc. All Rights Reserved
IMPORTANT: This wiring information is being provided free of charge on
an "AS IS" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your
responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using
a digital multimeter. Directed Electronics, Inc. assumes no responsibility
with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper
installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the
installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from an
improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.

 

ou dont want it on there tell luke (gtrrider) he'll take it off...

 

ok i bought the shock sensor that rob recommended on his site.. but im debating on whether to do his method (under the hood, tapping into the hood sensor) or the method i saw on vqpower (putting it in the dash).. do both work? which one would you reccomend? thanks

 

Run the wires and keep it dry(dash)..I am putting one under the dash.

+HINT+ If you strap the shock sensor to the steering wheel column under the dash It will sense (front)wheel theft +HINT+

due to the fact it is all connected.

The diagram are all you need good luck, it's easy for smart people like us(Nissan Owners)


D