The other day I was at the mechanic, and he put it on the lift and showed me the angle of my axles going from the wheels to the tranny. (No, not a lift where the wheels free-hang, a lift where the wheels are on the lift as well)

A good 15 degree angle - it's NASTY looking - now wonder I've replaced my passenger axle and am soon replacing my driver's side because of bad CV Joiints!

Also, the ride is WAY harsh!

2 Questions:

1) Anyone else had axle troubles with Sprints? Mine started going out 9 months after they were installed.

2) What's a good alternative to Sprints? Not as high as H&R's, but in-between H&R's and Sprints?

Thanks!
IanS

 

some people like B&G

 

What exact angle are you talking about? Are you saying that the part of the axle that is directly coming out of the transmission is a 15 degree angle, or the part after the boot is a 15 degree angle?

BTW, I have the B&G springs and I love them. The rear does sag a little bit, but I have a solution for that.....

 

Yes, B&G's are awsome!!!

 

From the outside of the inner Joint to the wheel.

Kind of like this:

Tranny----Joint
\
Joint
\
Wheel

<edit> The spacing didn't work how I would like it to illustrate that properly, but you get the idea.

 

Well, that 15 degree angle is pretty normal, no matter what the circumstances are. That angle is there so that when you turn and the wheel turns outward or inward, that angle allows the axle to stretch in and out from the angle so that it does not pull the axle apart.

The passenger axle will NOT have these symptoms because if you look at the way the axle is mounted. The shaft coming out the the transmission runs about a foot and is bolted to the car to keep it straight. So, even if the Sprints are the cause of the leaks on the left side, this cannot happen on the right side.

I hate to say this, but it seems that your differential bearings may be going on you. Bad differential bearings do not "tightly" secure the axle in place when inside the tranmission. This allows for free-play in the axle. So, when the car is driving, the axle moves up and down to the extent of the free-play. This, in turn, stretches out your CV axle seals, causing them to fail prematurely and leak. By only replacing the seals, you are only putting a band-aid on a fatal cut.

 

Wouldn't the tranny be slipping or something if that were the case? (Metal shavings getting into things and all).

I grabbed the axles myself and checked for play where they meet the tranny by shaking it as hard as I could - didn't budge at all.

I am under warranty and they said they would not replace the axle that was bad because of the car being lowered causing the axles to go bad.

What symptoms beside premature axle wear are shown when the bearings are bad?

<EDIT:> - Did some research, and a leaking seal is a very big sign of bad diff bearings - I have no leaks anywhere whatsoever. Although I do hear a whirring sound that gets worse the more I drive, along with a vibration on the freeway and when stopping.

Still sounds like an inboard CV joint to me
<End Edit>

IanS

 

When the differential bearings go bad, basically, only two things wil happen. 1) You will go through axle seals like crazy (my case). 2) Whenever you are in first and sometimes second, you will get a very large whinning/spinning noise.

In retrospect to your car being lowered and they cannot work on it, that is a bunch load of horse****, sorry for the language. With the car being lowered, it deals NOTHING with the transmission. That is purely suspension. In no way is the transmission affected by a totally different system of the vehicle.

When your car is on a stock setup suspension, the angle of the axle to the wheel is much more. If any, by lowering it, you are decreasing that angle, taking the stress of the bearings in the axle and "helping" out the axle. They are just low-balling you from having to do the work. Talk with their supervisor/manager, and be stern about it. If that particular car is still under warranty, threaten them with selling it and giving their dealership a bad name. I have had to do this in the past. That will get their little eyes open, believe me. Also, if they still low-ball you, call Nissan HO and talk with a technician there. Ask if by lowering the car, will the axle GO BAD or anything of that nature.

 

Interesting, I don't have the whine or vibration in 1st and 2nd at all, and the tranny isn't leaking (seals are good).

I feel it all only at freeway speeds really.

Thanks for the input on the axles - I'm going to call them tomorrow - the more I think about it, it makes perfect sense that lowering it actually indirectly would help, not hurt, the axles!

IanS

 

By the way, I just realized I explained it wrong.

The axles go UP at an angle, not down.

Like this:



\Joint------Tranny----Joint/

 

Don't worry about the slight angle you have. At stock ride height, that angle is the same, only in the opposite direction. The H&R drop makes the axels perfectly straight. Another reason I chose that spring when I drop my car.

Take a look at the angles on a Subaru setup some day. Were talking 25 degrees out of the tranny. Especially on those older 4WD 4 bangers. A CV joint is a constant velocity joint. Thats what it's designed to do, transfer power throughout any given range of motion. Your joints see 45 degree angles throughout your steering radious. Thats when they really see load. The ware and tare is happening when your turning, not when the car is going straight down the road.

iansw - Find another mechanic that knows what he's talking about when it comes to modified cars. Your axels are not failing because of that slight angle. Your angle is no different then mine, yours go up slightly and mine, stock, go down slightly. The shaft spins, the angle is irrevelent to it's position up or down.

Tom

 

Well, I don't know how to get them replaced under warranty anyway - They just won't budge when I talk to them about it - they say the CV joints going is the springs, and they won't work on it.

I've now experienced this at 4 different dealerships over the last 3 months.

Anyone have the number for Nissan so I can call them and get this worked out?

I've tried 1-800-NISSAN before, and it just has an automated response that says "Your dealership will work out warranty claims with you"

Seems to me, if they decide not to cover it, there's nothing whatsoever I can do....except take them to court, which I'm not sure I'd win. (And I don't have time or money to do).

IanS

 

Yhea, that guy is a trouble maker.

 

Ramius, I have spent the better part of the day researching through the Internet and calling mechanic buddies I know and a couple of shops that aren't dealerships, and were aware they would not make money from me.

Lowering the car and changing the angle of the axle CAN cause problems with the joints.

They are meant to be angled at the stock height, and torque on them at a different angle (especially an extreme downward angle) can cause them to literally vibrate loose.

I'll post links to it if you want - I have a bunch of articles/posts about this, and about people who have ahd similar problems.

Those with a 2" drop or lower, you should be aware of this.

IanS

 

B&G just like I told you. If you cant get that price, then I will just order two sets and send one to you(being you pay me)

 

Ok, I see what you are saying. What exactly is going bad on your car axle wise? Is it the "axle", axle seals on the tranny, axle boots, etc?

 

The CV Joints. The boots have no leaks, but the joints keep going out, caused by the wrong rotational angle they are forced to endure.

IanS

 

Ok, that sounds about right. What axles have you been using? Remans, new, used, etc? It is odd that you are so far the only one experiencing this problem. When the axle goes bad, what are the symptoms of the failure?

 

Well, it's the OEM axles going bad - first the passenger side with the typical "cleck-click-click" at low speeds while turning - replaced that last month. that was the outer join on the axle going out - just replaced the whole thing with a raxles.com axle.

Now the driver's side inboard joint (I think) is making a whirring sound and I have vibration on the freeway, but no "click click" noise. This is typical of the inboard joint.

My car also sits a good 1/2" lower than anyone else I've seen with Sprints - Noone knows why.

All the trouble really started after a 3000 mile drive to Phoenix and back.

IanS

 

I honestly think that after you replace the original axles with the "newer" ones, you will be good to go for a while. It just may be time for the replacement of the axles anyways. Once you get both axles replaced, mark down the mileage on a recepit and throw it into your glove compartment. The next time you blow and axle, see the difference in the mileage.

Also, have you hit any pot-holes or hit any big bumps before you noticed these problems?

 

haha - I live in Seattle - that a trick question or something? The rain here causes potholes bigger than the car itself!

(I've bent 6 rims over the last 2 years, and that's driving very carefully)

IanS

 

i have sprint and have no problems with them but they are harsh and i hate that my front has a perfect drop, looks so good, back is beautiful too but front is dropped a little more, engine weighing it down...and i have subs and what not but obviously not as heavy as the stuff in front...

 

Honestly, this is a culprit of blown axles. The added force of an impact is distributed throughout all systems of the car, mainly the suspension and axles. I am willing to bet that once you get the new axle on, and since you have already replaced the other side, that you will be good to go for a while. Granted, that pot-holes are and everyday thing and you don't aim for every one lololol. Anyways, good luck with them.

BTW, I need to talk with you about a VI cover......