Help! Diesel in tank!!
Ok, this morning I told him to keep the old parts for me and he readily agreed.
If any1 would like to have the old parts (MAF and Fuel Pump), tell me your mailing address. Of course, I'd not know of their working condition. I will be happy to do any "check resistance, check voltage, open this, open that on these parts" kind of diagnostics. Also, I'd think that the fuel pump can be repaired, given that it is mostly a mechanical device.
The only 2 experiences posted on the dealerships forum for this dealer are good (they both specifically name this service manager) and my past experience hasn't been bad either - like 2 months back he tested the starting problem for 1.5 hours and finally told me that the problem was residual pressure from fuel pump and didn't charge me a dime for the time.
So ...... I will wait for the old parts, car and the bill before returning the verdict.
I'd think it possible that fuel pump turned kaput slowly over time, especially given that he had diagnosed problem with pressure 2 months back. He may have blown MAF while testing out various sensors but no way I can prove that, so .....
BUT THANKS ALL AGAIN.
Now looking for junk yards in NJ - I believe there are 2-3 near IKEA, exit 13A off NJTP. For future use
If any1 would like to have the old parts (MAF and Fuel Pump), tell me your mailing address. Of course, I'd not know of their working condition. I will be happy to do any "check resistance, check voltage, open this, open that on these parts" kind of diagnostics. Also, I'd think that the fuel pump can be repaired, given that it is mostly a mechanical device.
The only 2 experiences posted on the dealerships forum for this dealer are good (they both specifically name this service manager) and my past experience hasn't been bad either - like 2 months back he tested the starting problem for 1.5 hours and finally told me that the problem was residual pressure from fuel pump and didn't charge me a dime for the time.
So ...... I will wait for the old parts, car and the bill before returning the verdict.
I'd think it possible that fuel pump turned kaput slowly over time, especially given that he had diagnosed problem with pressure 2 months back. He may have blown MAF while testing out various sensors but no way I can prove that, so .....
BUT THANKS ALL AGAIN.
Now looking for junk yards in NJ - I believe there are 2-3 near IKEA, exit 13A off NJTP. For future use
Originally posted by ssubhash
I didnt imagine the uproar that this has caused
Just returned from the shop. The car is starting with a new MAF AND a bottle of gas connected directly into the engine. Fuel pump is not sending fuel. Old MAF fails tests. Computer is sending the correct signal to the Fuel pump ("On-Off-On-off"). He says Crank and ETC sensors are working fine (but I did not push him to show me when he confirmed that the ECM is sending signal but the fuel pump is not sending fuel back).
I didnt imagine the uproar that this has caused

Just returned from the shop. The car is starting with a new MAF AND a bottle of gas connected directly into the engine. Fuel pump is not sending fuel. Old MAF fails tests. Computer is sending the correct signal to the Fuel pump ("On-Off-On-off"). He says Crank and ETC sensors are working fine (but I did not push him to show me when he confirmed that the ECM is sending signal but the fuel pump is not sending fuel back).
LOLLOLOLOLOL - He must have to squeeze that bottle pretty hard... hehe
What a bunch of thieving scumbag liars.
-RMB
Originally posted by iwannabmw
Tell them you want to have the old parts to take with you and then watch their reaction. If they start a dance, it's time to worry. They're required to return your old parts to you when you ask. You'll have to pay any core charges on some parts, but a MAF and fuel pump shouldn't be any of them.
Tell them you want to have the old parts to take with you and then watch their reaction. If they start a dance, it's time to worry. They're required to return your old parts to you when you ask. You'll have to pay any core charges on some parts, but a MAF and fuel pump shouldn't be any of them.
For goodness sakes man, agree to nothing at all!!! You're letting them take you. I would've gotten a mechanic buddy and taken him ad have the dealer explain all this to a certified mechanic. Also, I'd stick around to see them make the car turn on since they claim they're made it work already with an alternate fuel system.
One more thing, tell him you've posted online (but not specifically) that the dealer has the capacity of connecting a car to a secondary fuel source a.k.a. "life-support" and that a bunch of automotive engineers want to conduct a study.
Another thing you can do is call the local media. They'd love to take some camera guys and a reporter over there and pretty much dig deep into the pile of poo.
One more thing, tell him you've posted online (but not specifically) that the dealer has the capacity of connecting a car to a secondary fuel source a.k.a. "life-support" and that a bunch of automotive engineers want to conduct a study.
Another thing you can do is call the local media. They'd love to take some camera guys and a reporter over there and pretty much dig deep into the pile of poo.
Hey, give the guy a break. He's new to the Maxima community & doesn't sound like the DIY kind. So his car took a crap and is now trapped in some dealership, partially disassembled. Under the same circumstances, if I needed my wheels back ASAP, I would also take it in the shorts and pay to have the correct work done. All the time, money & effort spent on towing the car to a reputable dealer or mechanic would waste any benefit gained.
He's better off than 90% of the victims out there - how many normal people would refer to an online enthusiast's group for advice before having a bunch of work done? Anyway, I hope he gets it running and the hell out of that dealership before they invent any additional problems. There is no replacement for a competent, local mechanic.
Cheers to the .ORG, it's existence is one of the reasons I purchased a Maxima.
Ciao,
TOM
He's better off than 90% of the victims out there - how many normal people would refer to an online enthusiast's group for advice before having a bunch of work done? Anyway, I hope he gets it running and the hell out of that dealership before they invent any additional problems. There is no replacement for a competent, local mechanic.
Cheers to the .ORG, it's existence is one of the reasons I purchased a Maxima.
Ciao,
TOM
Originally posted by tom_98se
Hey, give the guy a break. He's new to the Maxima community & doesn't sound like the DIY kind. So his car took a crap and is now trapped in some dealership, partially disassembled. Under the same circumstances, if I needed my wheels back ASAP, I would also take it in the shorts and pay to have the correct work done. All the time, money & effort spent on towing the car to a reputable dealer or mechanic would waste any benefit gained.
Hey, give the guy a break. He's new to the Maxima community & doesn't sound like the DIY kind. So his car took a crap and is now trapped in some dealership, partially disassembled. Under the same circumstances, if I needed my wheels back ASAP, I would also take it in the shorts and pay to have the correct work done. All the time, money & effort spent on towing the car to a reputable dealer or mechanic would waste any benefit gained.
He should have enough info to demand better from the dealer. Sorry if I came off as offensive.. i was saying things in more of a "Take a Stand!" tone.
This is a great thread...
...and it makes me SO MAD!!!! 
I hate dealers -- I'm gonna post my own horror stories later...
After reading all dem posts, my $0.02 (which many have already
said):
-- MAFS prolly not bad. Get your old one back. It's simply 4 bolts
and one wire to connect --> see what happens if you reconnect it. If
it doesn't work, check to see if they F'ed up the little wire in the
sensor itself.
-- Broken MAFS will still let car start -- only RPMS affected.
-- Dirty throttle body? with only 44K? possible, but unlikely.
-- Diesel? PUH-LEASE!!!! I HATE THESE STUPID FU@KING DEALERS!!!
-- ECTS -- again, only 44K miles --> should still be good!!!
-- I HATE DEALERS (ofcourse, we already knew that
)
later y'all -- sorry for whoring up the post.
FLO_BOY

I hate dealers -- I'm gonna post my own horror stories later...
After reading all dem posts, my $0.02 (which many have already
said):
-- MAFS prolly not bad. Get your old one back. It's simply 4 bolts
and one wire to connect --> see what happens if you reconnect it. If
it doesn't work, check to see if they F'ed up the little wire in the
sensor itself.
-- Broken MAFS will still let car start -- only RPMS affected.
-- Dirty throttle body? with only 44K? possible, but unlikely.
-- Diesel? PUH-LEASE!!!! I HATE THESE STUPID FU@KING DEALERS!!!
-- ECTS -- again, only 44K miles --> should still be good!!!
-- I HATE DEALERS (ofcourse, we already knew that
)later y'all -- sorry for whoring up the post.
FLO_BOY
Originally posted by ssubhash
Hi NJMAX, Doug, Sprintmax, Notnew, and others:
Thanks a ton to this board. I don't find this level of education and sharing of information for my Honda Odyssey anywhere - so I am grateful.
I just got off the phone grilling the service manager and mechanic armed with what I learned on this group. Here's the scoop:
The mechanic is NOT sure that the contamination is diesel. He had told the service manager that the car was dieseling and that the fuel SMELT like diesel, which he says he misinterpreted as presence of diesel when he informed me earlier.
So to sue the gas station is outta question
Now he says that the smell and "contaminant" in the fuel may be the Fuel Injector Cleaner which Nissan recommends not be used. I think he is BS'ing because the Injector Cleaner, from NAPA -- auto parts store, is a highly solvable detergent, usable in all kinds of cars.
What he says he knows for sure
==============================
1. Airflow intake sensor is blown => needs to be replaced $500
(he says it blew up cuz the car backfired. Why? No idea. And
no, its not covered cuz the car is 42K miles/4 years)
Hypothetical land
=================
1. There is SOME problem in fuel system. Cud be contamination $400
=> needs to be cleaned out (car starts when hooked up to a
different fuel system, but I think it is the lack of residual
pressure in the pump)
2. Throttle body dirty => needs to be cleaned $70
3. Fuel pump check valve leaking => replace fuel pump $300
4. Fuel injectors are not firing up fully => flush inbectors $100
(start with other fuel system is not smooth, it is "missing")
What I think will work
======================
1. Replace airflow intake sensor.
2. Flush the tank by filling it up with good gas, disconnect the fuel
line from the engine, turn the ignition to ON to get the fuel pump
working - drain 1-2 gallons just to get that initial muck in the
lines out. Rest will burn up later on its own.
3. Replace fuel filter.
4. Clean out throttle body.
5. Replace fuel tank (incl, fuel pump) by picking from junk yard.
Till then, live with slow start caused by lack of residual
pressure by waiting 10-15 seconds after turning ignition to ON
before start.
Judging from the Haynes manual, replacing MAF is not difficult - reality check, folks? but does that ****ty part cost $500? Where can I check part prices?
And by the way, when I pressed him for a detailed written breakdown
estimate, he backed off ("will provide later today"). I told him no
estimate, no work
Thanks a ton again folks. I wudda been barking up wrong tree on my own.
Regards,
Hi NJMAX, Doug, Sprintmax, Notnew, and others:
Thanks a ton to this board. I don't find this level of education and sharing of information for my Honda Odyssey anywhere - so I am grateful.
I just got off the phone grilling the service manager and mechanic armed with what I learned on this group. Here's the scoop:
The mechanic is NOT sure that the contamination is diesel. He had told the service manager that the car was dieseling and that the fuel SMELT like diesel, which he says he misinterpreted as presence of diesel when he informed me earlier.
So to sue the gas station is outta question

Now he says that the smell and "contaminant" in the fuel may be the Fuel Injector Cleaner which Nissan recommends not be used. I think he is BS'ing because the Injector Cleaner, from NAPA -- auto parts store, is a highly solvable detergent, usable in all kinds of cars.
What he says he knows for sure
==============================
1. Airflow intake sensor is blown => needs to be replaced $500
(he says it blew up cuz the car backfired. Why? No idea. And
no, its not covered cuz the car is 42K miles/4 years)
Hypothetical land
=================
1. There is SOME problem in fuel system. Cud be contamination $400
=> needs to be cleaned out (car starts when hooked up to a
different fuel system, but I think it is the lack of residual
pressure in the pump)
2. Throttle body dirty => needs to be cleaned $70
3. Fuel pump check valve leaking => replace fuel pump $300
4. Fuel injectors are not firing up fully => flush inbectors $100
(start with other fuel system is not smooth, it is "missing")
What I think will work
======================
1. Replace airflow intake sensor.
2. Flush the tank by filling it up with good gas, disconnect the fuel
line from the engine, turn the ignition to ON to get the fuel pump
working - drain 1-2 gallons just to get that initial muck in the
lines out. Rest will burn up later on its own.
3. Replace fuel filter.
4. Clean out throttle body.
5. Replace fuel tank (incl, fuel pump) by picking from junk yard.
Till then, live with slow start caused by lack of residual
pressure by waiting 10-15 seconds after turning ignition to ON
before start.
Judging from the Haynes manual, replacing MAF is not difficult - reality check, folks? but does that ****ty part cost $500? Where can I check part prices?
And by the way, when I pressed him for a detailed written breakdown
estimate, he backed off ("will provide later today"). I told him no
estimate, no work

Thanks a ton again folks. I wudda been barking up wrong tree on my own.
Regards,
It sounds like you are bound and determined to spend money. The best advice I saw was call a tow truck. Make sure to call at least three and get a good rate. They can pick it up any time from say 9am-3pm they should give you a good rate. Towing a car from a dealership to another auto shop is not like dragging a car out of a ditch during a snowstorm ! I really belive the slow economy is pushing some repair shops to "go fishing".
Hello all:
Confirming that I have been suckered
Brought the car back today after dealer replaced Fuel Pump and MAF and cleaned the fuel tank. Its still hard to start. He had also replaced Spark Plugs, so I suspect that the no-start situation was caused by Spark Plugs.
The $hitheads wanted to replace all 6 Ignition coil packs (@ $800) claiming that that would fix the hard start problem now that they had the car running
But hell no, I would rather DIY with help from MAXIMA.ORG, Haynes & Newark junkyard than an effing dealership. Man, I leanrt my lesson the hard way. I hope no one else has to pay for needless work.
I will post the hard start symptoms in another thread.
Confirming that I have been suckered

Brought the car back today after dealer replaced Fuel Pump and MAF and cleaned the fuel tank. Its still hard to start. He had also replaced Spark Plugs, so I suspect that the no-start situation was caused by Spark Plugs.
The $hitheads wanted to replace all 6 Ignition coil packs (@ $800) claiming that that would fix the hard start problem now that they had the car running

But hell no, I would rather DIY with help from MAXIMA.ORG, Haynes & Newark junkyard than an effing dealership. Man, I leanrt my lesson the hard way. I hope no one else has to pay for needless work.
I will post the hard start symptoms in another thread.
Originally posted by ssubhash
Hello all:
I will post the hard start symptoms in another thread.
Hello all:
I will post the hard start symptoms in another thread.
BTW, I think he got hosed at that dealer. His MAF may have been blown, and couldn't it have been from a backfire through the intake (is that from timing or running too lean? I can't remember). That little wire in the MAF looks pretty fragile, and a backfire may have snapped it (I'm just playing with ideas). But a bad MAF should still let the car start, just not run good.
Didn't his car only have like 44,000 on it? I doubt plugs would've been the problem. Too low of mileage for things to start going wrong unless it's a fluke. But a bad fuel pump (it was having problems 2 months prior) could have been the culprit.
I'd definitely check all the parts returned, and I'd never go back to that dealership. Too much sounds flaky. If they're highly trained Nissan service techs, they should've been able to pinpoint a problem in a heartbeat, have it fixed and out the door pretty quick. It's not like they tore the engine down, machined the block, etc... They replaced a few bolt-on parts...
Sorry so long. Just some thoughts.
Dave
Oh and yes, I have the old fuel pump, MAF and a bottle full of sample of liquid from the fuel tank.
ANYONE INTERESTED IN HAVING ANY OF THESE FOR PLAYING/REPLACING/JUST FOR KICKS, JUST EMAIL ME UR ADDRESS.
PS: Repeat 1000 times after me "I will not go to a dealership again for fixing my car".
ANYONE INTERESTED IN HAVING ANY OF THESE FOR PLAYING/REPLACING/JUST FOR KICKS, JUST EMAIL ME UR ADDRESS.
PS: Repeat 1000 times after me "I will not go to a dealership again for fixing my car".
Originally posted by ssubhash
Oh and yes, I have the old fuel pump, MAF and a bottle full of sample of liquid from the fuel tank.
ANYONE INTERESTED IN HAVING ANY OF THESE FOR PLAYING/REPLACING/JUST FOR KICKS, JUST EMAIL ME UR ADDRESS.
PS: Repeat 1000 times after me "I will not go to a dealership again for fixing my car".
Oh and yes, I have the old fuel pump, MAF and a bottle full of sample of liquid from the fuel tank.
ANYONE INTERESTED IN HAVING ANY OF THESE FOR PLAYING/REPLACING/JUST FOR KICKS, JUST EMAIL ME UR ADDRESS.
PS: Repeat 1000 times after me "I will not go to a dealership again for fixing my car".
Never, will I ever go to a Nissan dealer for service again. Sadly, I've just seen too much incompetence.
If you find a shop/technician who knows his stuff & is reasonably priced, man, hang on for dear life - because it seems that's the exception to the rule these days.
Originally posted by ssubhash
Thanks a ton to this board. I don't find this level of education and sharing of information for my Honda Odyssey anywhere - so I am grateful.
Thanks a ton to this board. I don't find this level of education and sharing of information for my Honda Odyssey anywhere - so I am grateful.
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