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Hard Start - injector??

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Old 01-30-2003, 09:20 PM
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Hard Start - injector??

Recently (two days ago) I went to start my Max and it took one very long crank. It finally started. Then it started to smell like raw fuel. This happens intermintedly. Sometimes, 1 try quick start. Other times (90% of the time) 1 loooong crank. While idling, it "chuggs." Acceleration is basically normal, I think. Any ideas?

I used a fuel cleaner, the one you add to the tank. And that didn't help. Should I have the injectors cleaned professionally or DYI?
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Old 01-31-2003, 06:24 AM
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Check your crank sensor (pos) it may be on it's way out.

Check your engine coolant temp sensor and make sure it's within spec.

Clean your throttle body lately?
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Old 01-31-2003, 06:35 AM
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Originally posted by njmaxseltd
Check your crank sensor (pos) it may be on it's way out.

Check your engine coolant temp sensor and make sure it's within spec.

Clean your throttle body lately?
i have this same problem and my tech said it is the crank sensor reading a bunch of elctrical interference in the bell housing. he told me the only way to fix it is my taking out the tranny and cleaning the mounting points. is he full of shlt? or can i just replace the crank sensor to fix it? where is it located?
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Old 01-31-2003, 07:31 AM
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Originally posted by Soon2BMaxed
i have this same problem and my tech said it is the crank sensor reading a bunch of elctrical interference in the bell housing. he told me the only way to fix it is my taking out the tranny and cleaning the mounting points. is he full of shlt? or can i just replace the crank sensor to fix it? where is it located?
Just replace that crank sensor, it's getting weak in it's old age. It's also a lot cheaper to replace that sensor then to pull your trany out right? And suppose after you pull the tranny out, you still get hard starts now and then......was it worth it? I call on the tranny issue and hard starts. It's the sensor, not the tranny that causes hard starts.

If it fails while the car isn't running, (say overnight when the ghosts come out) you wount get a CEL indicating what the problem is and you'll wind up with a no start condition.

Trust me, I've been through that before, as well as a few others on here. Are 4th gens are getting old and were seeing some common failures now. Thats why I love this board, you really get to see how our cars hold up over the long run, and what failures are common. Saves a lot of time trouble shooting.
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Old 01-31-2003, 10:48 AM
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Originally posted by Soon2BMaxed
i have this same problem and my tech said it is the crank sensor reading a bunch of elctrical interference in the bell housing. he told me the only way to fix it is my taking out the tranny and cleaning the mounting points. is he full of shlt? or can i just replace the crank sensor to fix it? where is it located?
I had this problem and resolved it by removing my crank sensor (It's been so long, I can't remember if it was the POS or REF sensor) and cleaning off the end (part inside the bell-housing) with a cloth, then reinstalling.

The tip of this particular sensor is magnetic and takes it's readings using changing magnetic fields caused by the position of the crank.

Over time, the end of the sensor had attracted a layer of metal shavings (from the flywheel & starter motor?) which seemed to be interfering with the sensor's accuracy.

Cleaned it off, re-installed & never had a problem again. Try this first - if it's the sensor I'm talking about that's giving you trouble.

Pull codes from your ECU/ECM - See Hayne's manual for sensor location.
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Old 01-31-2003, 12:19 PM
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Originally posted by KWheelzSB


I had this problem and resolved it by removing my crank sensor (It's been so long, I can't remember if it was the POS or REF sensor) and cleaning off the end (part inside the bell-housing) with a cloth, then reinstalling.

The tip of this particular sensor is magnetic and takes it's readings using changing magnetic fields caused by the position of the crank.

Over time, the end of the sensor had attracted a layer of metal shavings (from the flywheel & starter motor?) which seemed to be interfering with the sensor's accuracy.

Cleaned it off, re-installed & never had a problem again. Try this first - if it's the sensor I'm talking about that's giving you trouble.

Pull codes from your ECU/ECM - See Hayne's manual for sensor location.
This is excellent info. I've seen the crank (ref) sensor full of fine metalic dust as well. Perhaps this should be part of lets say a 60K maintenance?
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Old 01-31-2003, 01:44 PM
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thanks guys! at least if i have to replace the sensor its only 40 bucks ..... but i'll clean it first!
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Old 01-31-2003, 05:49 PM
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damn my car takes forever to start sometimes. I'd start the car, it'd drop to low RPM then pick back up. What's that? Crank sensor? The guy at the dealership told me it could be my spark plug cables? He told me if i got thicker ones, it would preform better and start quicker.
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Old 01-31-2003, 06:54 PM
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Originally posted by nadir_s
damn my car takes forever to start sometimes. I'd start the car, it'd drop to low RPM then pick back up. What's that? Crank sensor? The guy at the dealership told me it could be my spark plug cables? He told me if i got thicker ones, it would preform better and start quicker.
Back slowly away from this guy and find another dealership.
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Old 02-01-2003, 12:10 AM
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Originally posted by nadir_s
damn my car takes forever to start sometimes. I'd start the car, it'd drop to low RPM then pick back up. What's that? Crank sensor? The guy at the dealership told me it could be my spark plug cables? He told me if i got thicker ones, it would preform better and start quicker.
Oh my, that's plain scary.


What iwannabmw is referring to is the fact that there ARE no SPARK PLUG WIRES to replace or THICKEN on your car.

Anyone who is (in theory) dispensing professional advice to you on what your car NEEDS, probably should know this.
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Old 02-01-2003, 05:49 AM
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Originally posted by nadir_s
The guy at the dealership told me it could be my spark plug cables? He told me if i got thicker ones, it would preform better and start quicker.

Amazimg, just amazing......

Do yourself a favor and never go back to that dealer again.

The real reason your car is giving you hard starts is because your probably low on Green Blinker Fluid. Ask that service tech. to fill it back up for you. Should only cost a buck fity.
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Old 02-01-2003, 09:09 AM
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Hmm, lemme explain the situation a bit more but I'm sure it won't change you're guys' view on it. Here goes anyways... I was at the dealership checking out the new Z when one of the salesman comes up and start's do his normal "thing"... selling me the car. So he mentions the new Z has NDIS (nissan direct ignition system) and explains that there is no distrubeter and the car starts up right away. SO, then i mention that my maxima takes a while to crank and he suggested that I change my sparkplugs and upgrade the wires that are connected to them. I forget if he suggested to do something w/ the distrubeter but yeah, that's what the guy said. I mean, it kinda made sense to me, but then again i'm not a mechanical/electrical buff when it comes to cars lol. Alright, thanks for listenin and helpin me understand this!
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Old 02-01-2003, 11:41 AM
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Originally posted by nadir_s
Hmm, lemme explain the situation a bit more but I'm sure it won't change you're guys' view on it. Here goes anyways... I was at the dealership checking out the new Z when one of the salesman comes up and start's do his normal "thing"... selling me the car. So he mentions the new Z has NDIS (nissan direct ignition system) and explains that there is no distrubeter and the car starts up right away. SO, then i mention that my maxima takes a while to crank and he suggested that I change my sparkplugs and upgrade the wires that are connected to them. I forget if he suggested to do something w/ the distrubeter but yeah, that's what the guy said. I mean, it kinda made sense to me, but then again i'm not a mechanical/electrical buff when it comes to cars lol. Alright, thanks for listenin and helpin me understand this!
Your Maxima has a distributorless ignition system, as well - similar to the new Z. The fact that it was a Nissan sales-schmoe that gave you the advice makes more sense to me.

-Still troubling, but a little reassuring that at least no one in the service department was that misinformed.
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Old 02-01-2003, 02:55 PM
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Position crank sensor

Should I check for voltage and resistance?
What are the normal parameters for the pos. crank sensor?
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Old 02-01-2003, 04:56 PM
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Re: Position crank sensor

Originally posted by |\|issan|\/|ax
Should I check for voltage and resistance?
What are the normal parameters for the pos. crank sensor?
where the hell is the damn thing?!? i cleaned the one on the left side of the oil pan but i think that was the REF one not the POS.
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Old 02-01-2003, 07:18 PM
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Re: Re: Position crank sensor

Originally posted by Soon2BMaxed
where the hell is the damn thing?!? i cleaned the one on the left side of the oil pan but i think that was the REF one not the POS.
It's bolted to the transmission, towards the front of the car. Big black thingy that sticks out where the case meets the block.
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Old 02-02-2003, 09:36 PM
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Re: Re: Re: Position crank sensor

Originally posted by iwannabmw


It's bolted to the transmission, towards the front of the car. Big black thingy that sticks out where the case meets the block.
is fluid or anything going to leak out when i pull it?
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Old 02-02-2003, 11:03 PM
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Originally posted by nadir_s
Hmm, lemme explain the situation a bit more but I'm sure it won't change you're guys' view on it. Here goes anyways... I was at the dealership checking out the new Z when one of the salesman comes up and start's do his normal "thing"... selling me the car. So he mentions the new Z has NDIS (nissan direct ignition system) and explains that there is no distrubeter and the car starts up right away. SO, then i mention that my maxima takes a while to crank and he suggested that I change my sparkplugs and upgrade the wires that are connected to them. I forget if he suggested to do something w/ the distrubeter but yeah, that's what the guy said. I mean, it kinda made sense to me, but then again i'm not a mechanical/electrical buff when it comes to cars lol. Alright, thanks for listenin and helpin me understand this!
well, ask yourself this... is the salesman a mechanic?... or some guy wanting commission or else he'll get kicked out of his apartment and starve outside...
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Old 02-03-2003, 07:51 AM
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Position crank sensor

Originally posted by Soon2BMaxed
is fluid or anything going to leak out when i pull it?
No, it's located in the bellhousing and point at the flywheel, so it's a dry environment.
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Old 02-03-2003, 08:13 AM
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Ok guys this thread is scaring me really bad.

The car has 2 crank position sensors. The REF and POS. One is in the back near the bell housing where it meets with the tranny just above the oil pan. The other is directly underneath the crank pulley near the pass side tire. Both have only 2 wires attached to it. It is a single bolt attached, if I remember correctly. They are both basically magnets and a resistor. Clean the magnets and try again. If problem persists, buy new sensor and try again. If still persists, you have another problem.

For the young man who was told his problem was a "bigger spark plug wire/distributor"....go back to that dealer and pimp slap the moron that calls himself a Nissan anything, and then tell management about the genius they have working for them.

I thought I had heard them all, that one tops the cake....bigger wires
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Old 02-03-2003, 09:19 AM
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hope this helps...

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Old 02-03-2003, 09:22 AM
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this too....

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Old 02-03-2003, 10:29 AM
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Originally posted by cscm094
this too....

WOW thanks a lot man! i will go check that out as soon as it stops raining


btw, what are those pics out of? thanks again!


Trevor
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Old 02-03-2003, 12:36 PM
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NOT INJECTOR??!

I have begun to believe that the problem is NOT either of the position crank sensors. I am starting to wonder if it's a fuel pressure problem. I have come to this conclusion because if I wait long (10ish seconds) I think that fuel pressure builds up and then it fires right up. I am unsure though because I waited for "pressure to build up" today and that didn't do anything. This is such a weird problem!! It's happening intermintedly.

Tell me what you guys think.
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Old 02-03-2003, 01:23 PM
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Re: NOT INJECTOR??!

Originally posted by |\|issan|\/|ax
I have begun to believe that the problem is NOT either of the position crank sensors. I am starting to wonder if it's a fuel pressure problem. I have come to this conclusion because if I wait long (10ish seconds) I think that fuel pressure builds up and then it fires right up. I am unsure though because I waited for "pressure to build up" today and that didn't do anything. This is such a weird problem!! It's happening intermintedly.

Tell me what you guys think.
wouldn't it be worth it to check the sensors anyway?
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Old 02-03-2003, 04:47 PM
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Re: NOT INJECTOR??!

Originally posted by |\|issan|\/|ax
I have begun to believe that the problem is NOT either of the position crank sensors. I am starting to wonder if it's a fuel pressure problem. I have come to this conclusion because if I wait long (10ish seconds) I think that fuel pressure builds up and then it fires right up. I am unsure though because I waited for "pressure to build up" today and that didn't do anything. This is such a weird problem!! It's happening intermintedly.

Tell me what you guys think.
I think it is fuel pressure too that causes this. If you notice, the car doesn't start up right away when you are pretty low on fuel. I've always noticed that. I mean not when you're terribly low on fuel, but just enough so that it causes the pressure to be inadequate for a quick start.

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOR, my car takes forever to start because my 140k-miles-old starter is starting to die.
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Old 02-03-2003, 10:50 PM
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Originally posted by Soon2BMaxed
btw, what are those pics out of? thanks again!

Trevor
Those great detailed pics are from a Hayne's Nissan Maxima shop manual. It's a must-have resource if you're troubleshooting your car.

You can/should have your very own for less than $15 at either your local auto store or www.amazon.com

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Old 02-04-2003, 06:14 AM
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Originally posted by KWheelzSB


Those great detailed pics are from a Hayne's Nissan Maxima shop manual. It's a must-have resource if you're troubleshooting your car.

You can/should have your very own for less than $15 at either your local auto store or www.amazon.com

well i have the chilton's.....it just doesn't have pictures like that.
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Old 02-05-2003, 01:37 PM
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Umm in response to the fuel pressure: for me it doesn't matter how much gas I have

In response to checking the sensors: I checked the sensor by the oil pan, cleaned it off, and the starting problem is reduced slightly. Today I plan to check the other sensor.

Oh yeah and by the way I have a Hayne's Book.
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