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in dash clock broke

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Old 02-10-2003, 08:14 AM
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in dash clock broke

my in dash clock works sometimes and other times it's totally not visible (when head lights are off). sometimes i push on it and it works. does anyone have a solution to this problem.
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Old 02-10-2003, 08:44 AM
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My clock went out completly, so I just went to the local junk yard, found a 95 Max. And took the clock out. Paid $10.50. Put a new cd deck into the car to replace the Bose unit, and plugged it in, and POOF! I have the clock again. I would just check a junk yard. My clock would go on and off like you said, and then it just stayed off. Just get a new one.
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Old 02-10-2003, 08:46 AM
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taking dash apart

was it hard to take the dash apart.
can someone point me to some directions.



Originally posted by DUNKEE
My clock went out completly, so I just went to the local junk yard, found a 95 Max. And took the clock out. Paid $10.50. Put a new cd deck into the car to replace the Bose unit, and plugged it in, and POOF! I have the clock again. I would just check a junk yard. My clock would go on and off like you said, and then it just stayed off. Just get a new one.
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Old 02-10-2003, 12:38 PM
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a haynes manual walks you through it...basicly though you pry out the panel its in (a popsicle stick works well)....there are four (i think) push tabs...approximately in the corners of it. the bezel goes around the vents, and down to the climate control panel. there are a few electrical connectors on the back...the clock is held in place with two screws.

my clock did the same thing in my 95...kept time just fine...just the display didn't always work....don't even bother with the dealer...the retail price is like $300...no kidding. I found a used panel assembly on ebay cause none of the local junk/salvage yards had one.

good luck
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Old 02-10-2003, 12:44 PM
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a haynes manual walks you through it...basicly though you pry out the panel its in (a popsicle stick works well)....there are four (i think) push tabs...approximately in the corners of it. the bezel goes around the vents, and down to the climate control panel. there are a few electrical connectors on the back...the clock is held in place with two screws.

my clock did the same thing in my 95...kept time just fine...just the display didn't always work....don't even bother with the dealer...the retail price is like $300...no kidding. I found a used panel assembly on ebay cause none of the local junk/salvage yards had one.

good luck
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Old 02-10-2003, 12:50 PM
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a haynes manual walks you through it...basicly though you pry out the panel its in (a popsicle stick works well)....there are four (i think) push tabs...approximately in the corners of it. the bezel goes around the vents, and down to the climate control panel. there are a few electrical connectors on the back...the clock is held in place with two screws.

my clock did the same thing in my 95...kept time just fine...just the display didn't always work....don't even bother with the dealer...the retail price is like $300...no kidding. I found a used panel assembly on ebay cause none of the local junk/salvage yards had one.

good luck
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Old 02-11-2003, 12:15 AM
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Re: in dash clock broke

Originally posted by neck
my in dash clock works sometimes and other times it's totally not visible (when head lights are off). sometimes i push on it and it works. does anyone have a solution to this problem.
The typical problem causing intermittant clock display is pretty easy to fix, but you've got to be comfortable opening the dash and using a soldering iron:

• Completely remove the clock module from the dash panel. After you pop out the upper dash panel (snap out to left & right of hazard & defog switches with putty knife) and disconnect the electrical connector from the back of the clock, there are two screws that hold the module to the panel.

• CAREFULLY snap off the tinted bezel (latch on either side). Be careful not to lose the two small rubber plunger contacts from the time setting buttons.

• Slide the entire circuit board out of the housing, along with the small circuit board attached by ribbon wire. Do not bend the display panel where it is attached to circuit board.

• Look at the circuit board with the display facing you the way you would normally look at the clock; Near the bottom right corner of the display, on the main circuit board, is a small surface mount device (small flat square) soldered to the circuit board. Cracked solder joints on this device are the most likely cause. You can usually just reheat the joints with a fully heated low wattage (25-40 watt) soldering pencil until the solder re-flows (1 to 2 seconds).

• You may want to inspect the rest of the solder joints for cracks, too.

• Carefully reassemble (don't forget the plungers) and install.

The whole procedure took me less than 15 minutes on my '95. If only my son hadn't cracked the bezel when he gave it a hit one time, it would be as good as new.

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Old 04-06-2003, 09:44 AM
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Re: Re: in dash clock broke

Originally posted by jcalabria


The typical problem causing intermittant clock display is pretty easy to fix, but you've got to be comfortable opening the dash and using a soldering iron:

• Completely remove the clock module from the dash panel. After you pop out the upper dash panel (snap out to left & right of hazard & defog switches with putty knife) and disconnect the electrical connector from the back of the clock, there are two screws that hold the module to the panel.

• CAREFULLY snap off the tinted bezel (latch on either side). Be careful not to lose the two small rubber plunger contacts from the time setting buttons.

• Slide the entire circuit board out of the housing, along with the small circuit board attached by ribbon wire. Do not bend the display panel where it is attached to circuit board.

• Look at the circuit board with the display facing you the way you would normally look at the clock; Near the bottom right corner of the display, on the main circuit board, is a small surface mount device (small flat square) soldered to the circuit board. Cracked solder joints on this device are the most likely cause. You can usually just reheat the joints with a fully heated low wattage (25-40 watt) soldering pencil until the solder re-flows (1 to 2 seconds).

• You may want to inspect the rest of the solder joints for cracks, too.

• Carefully reassemble (don't forget the plungers) and install.

The whole procedure took me less than 15 minutes on my '95. If only my son hadn't cracked the bezel when he gave it a hit one time, it would be as good as new.

This is a great tip. I had this exact problem and was set to purchase a pulled replacement clock listed on eBay. I figured since the clock didn't work, I didn't have anything to lose trying this. I pulled the vent/clock panel assembly this morning (as per previously posted threads) and unscrewed the clock. I disassembled the clock and inspected it. I put a piece of masking tape over the bottom of the circuit board so I could hold it without shorting any components and plugged it back in. I found I could get the clock to fail when I wiggled the wiring connector but not when I held the white power connector block firmly in place. Upon closer review, I could see that the 4 solder joints for the power connetor block were yellowed. I brought it in the house, warmed up a $1 pencil solder iron from a dollar store and went to work. First, I attempted to heat the existing solder and let it reflow as suggested. This made it better but not completely fixed since it appeared there was not enough solder originally and the clock still failed when the power connector was moved. So next I carefully added a small amount of solder to the joint by holding the hot solder iron tip and solder on the tip each of the 4 connect block solder joints let a small amount run (I'm far from an expert with a soldering iron.) I again plugged it back it and wiggled the connector. The clocked was fixed... not even blink when wiggling the power connector. Total time 25 minutes. Thanks jcalabria!
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Old 04-06-2003, 10:47 AM
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my bose headunit also sometimes doesn't display anything or it's dimmed, although it plays fine. will re-soldering something on it also fix the problem, and if so what exactly do i need to do? thanks
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Old 04-06-2003, 04:30 PM
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^ anyone?
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Old 04-06-2003, 06:24 PM
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Originally posted by Allen
^ anyone?

dont kno bout clock but i got that radio problem. sometimes it just goes blank but still works. any suggestions
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Old 04-07-2003, 12:34 PM
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Originally posted by Allen
my bose headunit also sometimes doesn't display anything or it's dimmed, although it plays fine. will re-soldering something on it also fix the problem, and if so what exactly do i need to do? thanks
I've done the complete resolder deal on two Bose head units ('95 & '96), with mixed results. One had an intermittent no operation and I was not able to fix that one. The other had no display and I was able to fix that one. Problem was not in the display but in the power supply module at the rear of the radio. I WOULD NOT recommend anybody trying this that didn't have some experience in electronic repairs. Not a job for the novice.

There are folks who repair them flat rate ($90-$135) on e-bay. Instead, I ended buying another head unit on e-bay, but I purposely went for a unit from a '99. After two failures on the early units I figured it would be a better chance of lasting awhile instead of buying a third unit with the same problems. Paid $82 + $15 shipping. The '99 unit plugs right in as long as you don't have a CD changer. The changer is different for them.
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Old 04-07-2003, 04:50 PM
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Originally posted by jcalabria


I've done the complete resolder deal on two Bose head units ('95 & '96), with mixed results. One had an intermittent no operation and I was not able to fix that one. The other had no display and I was able to fix that one. Problem was not in the display but in the power supply module at the rear of the radio. I WOULD NOT recommend anybody trying this that didn't have some experience in electronic repairs. Not a job for the novice.

There are folks who repair them flat rate ($90-$135) on e-bay. Instead, I ended buying another head unit on e-bay, but I purposely went for a unit from a '99. After two failures on the early units I figured it would be a better chance of lasting awhile instead of buying a third unit with the same problems. Paid $82 + $15 shipping. The '99 unit plugs right in as long as you don't have a CD changer. The changer is different for them.
I have an intermittent fade button I'd like to fix also. The stereo generally only has rear speakers until the car warms up or I wiggle the fade button while it's extended. It seems to work better in warmed weather. Other than that the stereo works great. Where'd you find the replacement?
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Old 04-07-2003, 07:41 PM
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Originally posted by Max97SE


I have an intermittent fade button I'd like to fix also. The stereo generally only has rear speakers until the car warms up or I wiggle the fade button while it's extended. It seems to work better in warmed weather. Other than that the stereo works great. Where'd you find the replacement?

On e-bay... I use this search:

Nissan Bose e-bay Search

Its not a perfect search but it basically eliminates all the car listings equipped with Bose.
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