alright, we had some debate about "upgrading" your spark plugs in order to make the car start quicker... well here's something I ran across on an online chiltons manual place.

http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...61CH01_30.HTML

I know this is different from the "performance" spark plug wires debate we had, but I think it is the wire that has deteriated on some of the maximas that causes this problem. What do you guys thinK?? I mean the website itself says that it has trouble starting up in the cold or damp places... exact problems i've been having.

I've never changed my sparkplugs before or have touched the sparkplug wires... i'd love to test the wires but I don't understand the instructions on website. I completely disconnect that wire on both ends?

Also, you think nissan can sell new OEM ones? lemme know ure opinions and input. We've had all sorts of ideas about why our maximas take forever starting... it'd be cool to find a possible answer. Thanks!

 

I didnt think we had spark plug wires?
Dont those nasty backordered Ignition Coils do our dirty work?

 

So when did Maximas get spark plug wires?

 

Correct!

 

last time i looked under the hood of my car then no we don't have any plug wires. unless i wasn't paying attention and there is something totally different from my canadian maxima and the US maxima besides the guages reading in km/h and I have an LSD tranny already.

 

kajs;dflkasjd;flkasjf

did u guys see the link i posted? So... that doesn't exist

don't flame me, I just came up to that and it was relevant to what i was talkin about before! and that IS for a 1996 Nissan Maxima according to the Chilton site.

So then... if each spark plug has a coil, then isn't that connected to the distributer? maybe it's talkin about that wire coming from the distributer...

 

dude...nothing on the site of the link you posted said anything about a '96 Maxima. and I'm not sure how the coils are connected to the plugs. I never thought about that. hmmmmm...

 

Direct ignition. No wires.

Yeah, I saw your link, but it doesn't do 4th Gen Maximas much good?

 

http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...H01_5_IDX.HTML

check that... and if you click on the yellow buttons up there, it goes back a directory to show u more options and if you check some of those other links out, you'll find out it's talkin about VE30DE and VG30E engines.

Damn if this stuff is not correct, I bet i've got the ****tiest luck on this. First it was the Nissan Salesman that recommended this and now the online chilton site!

 

Here is a stupid *** question for you. What kind of gas do you use?

 

how the hell is that relevant?

 

lol Might not be, just curious. You said you have a starting problem, and there have been a few other members that have it too. So AIR/FUEL/SPARK...... Fuel = what kind of gas do you use? Might be a silly question, but just trying to narrow your problem down.

 

just answer the man. lol i'm sure he knows what he is talking about.

 

91 octane... also I made a mistake previously, the engines 2 posts up don't match ours lol. blah forget it, the site can't link properly.

The problem I have is the car takes alot of turning over before it actually starts SOMETIMES>.. and i noticed it when it was damp actually.

 

 

or is it a woman then?





j/k

 

You mentioned you never changed your plugs, but you have had them changed within the past 50k miles though right? (Might want to pull them out and give them a once over anyway though)

Also, when starting the car, does it help when you turn the key on to ACC for a few seconds before turning it over? (Or have you tried this?)

 

 

plugs were changed 25k miles ago.

I have never tried the ACC method. Thanks for the advice, I'll try that tomorrow morning... well not tomorrow morning because my gas is really low and the car always takes forever to start when the gas is low. I assume it's the low gas pressure.

 

You might need a new fuel pump, or might need to change your fuel filter. Try the "ACC method" and if you haven't, change your fuel filter too.

Good luck!

 

thanks for ure help! sorry for sounding like an *** when asked about the gas.

 

if you need a new fuel pump then it might be time for the Walbro 190lph fuel pump.

 

lol np Just let us know when you figure out what it is!

what the hell is this guy for? ---->>> lol

 

Then get a turbo, SC, or NOS and make good use of it!!


I am using too many smilies now, time for bed lol

 

To make you ask.

 

I have the same problem with my 4th and the only way i start it is if i press the gas peddle till it hits about 2500RPM and if i just press and start it will die down. I think i either have a problem with the fuel injection or needs Tune-up. I dont know if that helped at all. sorry if it didnt

 

If your car isn't started it can't hit 2500rpms??

 

nope you need a 255 lph for that

 

Just to summarize:
We have the VQ30 engine (Not VG30 or VE30)
We do not have a distributor
We do not have spark plug wires

We have an ignition coil on top of each spark plug that is told when to fire by the ECU. The only "upgradable" or "serviceable" part of out ignition system is the plugs.

The coils can be replaced with OEM units, but that's not really a maintenance item.

 

No, when I start I have to rev it to 2500RPM for it to keep running properly. If I dont let it reach 2500RPM, she goes back down and dies.

 

First off us 4th genners have a direct ignition system that does not need to have its wires replaced, unless they are cut or physically damaged. Our coil packs have a transistor that creates the high voltage pulse that is needed to fire the spark plug properly, the main advantage to this system is too eliminate the high voltage wires of the older systems and to gain better spark plug firing accuracy and control.

On older engines that did not have a DIS they used a distrubutor to send the high voltage thru HEAVILY insulated spark plug wires. Over time the heat from the engine, the weather, and other problems would wear the insulation on these wires, eventially causing the high voltage in the wires to short out onto the metal of the engine block. This would cause misfiring, rough starts, and other problems. This is why on the old distributor systems recomended changing your spark plug wires every time you changed your spark plugs.

Also trouble starting up in the cold or damp places on these systems only aggrivates the problem because the mositure that collects only helps to reduce the resistance of the wire's insulation and cause spark plug wire shorting. When the engine eventially begins to run and heat up the collected mositure would evaporate making the shorting go away or be less noticable.

The test that they talk about for the spark plug wires is known as a continuity test in the electronics world. You remove both ends of the wire and use an ohmmeter to test the continuity of the wire, if the wire tested has a resistance that is very low (shorted out wire), very high (worn out conductor), or infinite resistance (broken wire) you replaced that wire. IMO it is possible to do this test on our cars but its probally a waste of time, Ive never heard of a 4th gens ignition wires getting worn out.

 

Just the coil packs...

 

On a sort of off topic, topic, i wanna know something about this remote started i have. It says there is a tachometer sensor for remote start. It also says the tach can be set up to start to a certain RPM. i know the starter has nothing to do with teh throttle position, but could that little thing really make my car start and rev to 6000 rpm? i would really like that to scare people for fun....
i have a pretty good two way alarm (the little screens with the car pics on it).