infinitiblast

iTrader: (2)

Service engine light on, engine is running week.. What is the p1320 code thats what I pulled from it.

infinitiblast

iTrader: (2)

Ok so the p1320 is this P1320
Ignition Signal Primary


So what the heck is that?? Bad coil perhaps. If so how do I test the coils.

pjalst

P1320=ignition signal primary circuit fault

don't ask me what that means

infinitiblast

iTrader: (2)

Sounds $$$$$

nobel

Ok, do what I did. Test the ignition coil. Pull the harness out of each coil one by one. If you notice the engine running rough when u disconnect the harness chances are u've eliminated that ignition coil as the bad one. (I say chances are b/c an ignition coil may not be 100% bad, but fail only intermitently). If you pull the ignition harness off the coil and u do not notice the engine really vibrating as compared to when u pulled the harness off the others, then u can add that coil to the list of the *possible* problem part. Thats what I did. And to verify for sure, I switch the suspect bad coil with a coil from my friends maxima........we left it like this for the weekend. He experienced all my problems. So that means the coil I suspected is definitely a bad one. I changed the coil.........no more problems.

Is that the only code you have?

infinitiblast

iTrader: (2)

I just checked the ohm readings on the front three coils. With the digital multimeter set at 20k on the ohm side I got the following readings from left to right

1.87 OHms Cyl 1
1.68 Ohms Cyl 2
1.86 Ohms Cyl 3

Since my problem comes and go and now that its really damp it seems to be more apparent. I'm wondering if number two right there may be going out. Thanks for the input I'll check the other three in the back tomorrow.

nobel

When i tested my 6 coils, i got between 1.3xxx to 1.6 or so..... i believe that is in spec. But anyone more technical out there, what is the tolerance level for the coils? is the range i got acceptable?

infinitiblast, keep in mind that just b/c a coil tests within spec, does not mean its good. it could be an intermitent problem as i found out.

infinitiblast

iTrader: (2)

Ok well this morning I wake up and everything in ga is damp and wet right now no sun at all. So I crank the car and there is the really rough idle like running on 5 cyl, so I let it warm up hoping any moisture will evap so I can drive it. As I drive down the road it doesnt get much better and then the cel light starts to blink so I slow down to 20 and bring it to work less than half a mile away it starts up fine. Why would it be blinking though?

Jamsan

iTrader: (2)

when there's a serious problem (i.e. running on 5 cylinders), it will start to blink...when I had a coil pack fail, it also started to blink, especially when I got on it, so I also slowed down...It didn't do any serious damage (I think), and I had to drive quite a while with it like that...The same night, a friend came over with some extra packs, we tried nobel's method, and all was good after that...IF the car is still doing that, your best bet is to check it now....Also, try getting the codes again and seeing if there is a code for a specific cylinder misfire

nobel

Jamsan, for you car, did the ecu tell you which cylinder was mis-firing? Its strange how the ecu reports that for some maximas and not for others. I assume it has to do with how bad the coil is. Maybe ours did not fail as bad as some others.

Also, i was doing about 140km/h (~80mph) when my CEL started blinking....it blinked about 4 times and went away....about 4 minutes later it blinked again. I continued to drive on the highway for another 10 minutes but the CEL did not blink after the initial 2 times. Does anyone know if this could cause damage to my engine?

I sure hope not.

WASAKI

I have similar problem P1320 Control Ignition system or misfire. Does this mean my coils are bad and how difficult is it to change or inspect the ignition coils?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

the changing part is real easy.