Auto Tranny Flush Questions
Auto Tranny Flush Questions
I was getting ready to flush my tranny and had some questions.
Normally I would do a search and find this info, but
I need to know 3 things:
1) How much fluid do I need?
I am going to remove the pan and change the filter.
And then I am going to flush the fluid from the T/C and cooler using the return line.
2) I once saw a website with a write up on how to do this but it was last summer and I have lost the bookmark.
Anybody know where it might be???
3) I bought a Purolator AT Filter Kit that comes with the pan gasket and new filter.
There was a paper inside the kit that said:
"requires the removal of the valve body from the case and them removing the filter from the valve body.
The reason for this is that one of the bolts holding the filter to the valve body is a reamer bolt that holds the upper and lower valve bodies together.
If the filter and bolt are removed without first removing the valve body, the the reamer bolt will not srew back in because the nut is displaced."
Is this true?
My haynes manual does not mention this and I do not have the factory service manual.
I would really appreciate any help guys.
I have been lurking on the board for a while but am still a newbie poster so be nice.
Normally I would do a search and find this info, but
I need to know 3 things:
1) How much fluid do I need?
I am going to remove the pan and change the filter.
And then I am going to flush the fluid from the T/C and cooler using the return line.
2) I once saw a website with a write up on how to do this but it was last summer and I have lost the bookmark.
Anybody know where it might be???
3) I bought a Purolator AT Filter Kit that comes with the pan gasket and new filter.
There was a paper inside the kit that said:
"requires the removal of the valve body from the case and them removing the filter from the valve body.
The reason for this is that one of the bolts holding the filter to the valve body is a reamer bolt that holds the upper and lower valve bodies together.
If the filter and bolt are removed without first removing the valve body, the the reamer bolt will not srew back in because the nut is displaced."
Is this true?
My haynes manual does not mention this and I do not have the factory service manual.
I would really appreciate any help guys.
I have been lurking on the board for a while but am still a newbie poster so be nice.
Originally posted by Candi Max
bump
bump
well, first you dont need to remove the VB but you should really take some time and tools to do this.
1. check the exact bolts to remove on the vb filter(it names screen) andremove it...if you remove other bolts you will be killed with a VB so we dont want this.
2. clean all the vb cover, if you have haynes manual, theres all the info you will need to do this job.
3. you will need a machine to suck the old tranny oil, and clean with the new one(thats why it takes too much ATF)...you will see...a very dark ATF fluid coming from your tranny...and then it will get a new ATF...and step by step you will see more clear ATF...bla bla bla bla bla bla..and done. Is not a easy job if you really want to clear all the tranny and do the best job. Theres a special machine to do this job.
regards.....Maximabest
Originally posted by maximabest
3. you will need a machine to suck the old tranny oil, and clean with the new one(thats why it takes too much ATF)...you will see...a very dark ATF fluid coming from your tranny...and then it will get a new ATF...and step by step you will see more clear ATF...bla bla bla bla bla bla..and done. Is not a easy job if you really want to clear all the tranny and do the best job. Theres a special machine to do this job.
regards.....Maximabest
3. you will need a machine to suck the old tranny oil, and clean with the new one(thats why it takes too much ATF)...you will see...a very dark ATF fluid coming from your tranny...and then it will get a new ATF...and step by step you will see more clear ATF...bla bla bla bla bla bla..and done. Is not a easy job if you really want to clear all the tranny and do the best job. Theres a special machine to do this job.
regards.....Maximabest
And then I am going to flush the fluid from the T/C and cooler using the return line.
12 quarts on hand if you're going to flush through the cooling lines, which is a great way to do it. I would first drop the pan and clean it out good. Don't worry about the filter that you have to remove the valvebody to get to. After the pan is clean, install the new gasket and bolt it back up. Fill the tranny with some fluid and then flush through the lines until you see the color change and you'll be good to go.
There are some really good directions around here, but I don't know where off the top of my head.
There are some really good directions around here, but I don't know where off the top of my head.
You really don't need to drop the pan. It's a messy job that, if not done right, can cause leaks.
There is no reason to go in there. Any metal particles trapped by are two large magnets inside the pan. The filter is really just a metal screen and it doesn't need to be changed. If you do change it, there is a good chance you will have to remove the VB. All of the fasteners holding the screen on are hex-head bolts threaded into the VB EXCEPT for the middle one. It is a bolt that goes through the VB with a nut on the filter side. With the VB in place, the only thing that keeps the bolt from turning is friction. Some here have been lucky enough to be able to tighten this nut without having to remove the VB. Personally, I wouldn't risk it.
There is no reason to go in there. Any metal particles trapped by are two large magnets inside the pan. The filter is really just a metal screen and it doesn't need to be changed. If you do change it, there is a good chance you will have to remove the VB. All of the fasteners holding the screen on are hex-head bolts threaded into the VB EXCEPT for the middle one. It is a bolt that goes through the VB with a nut on the filter side. With the VB in place, the only thing that keeps the bolt from turning is friction. Some here have been lucky enough to be able to tighten this nut without having to remove the VB. Personally, I wouldn't risk it.
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