phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

The garage is supposed to call me back in 5-10 minutes about needidn a "cam bolt" installed to allow the camber to be adjusted in the max after going to aftermarket struts and springs. I know that this is different from a "camber kit," but has anyone else needed a "cam bolt" to get an alignment done after a suspension install?

breaux124

iTrader: (1)

Most people don't need camber bolts, but a few (myself included) did need them to get our alignment in spec. There should be some play in the strut to adjust the camber slightly.

So yes, you MIGHT need camber bolts. But first see what your alignment numbers are before you purchase some. Also, make sure you don't have anything bent which could cause out of spec alignment.

Also:
Lightning Motorsports sells the Ingalls for about $23 shipped.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Your on H&R's, you shouldn't need any camber adjustment. Ask him what the readings are. There's enough play in the lower strut bolt holes to pull enough positive camber to get the car will within specs. Lets see what the shop says.... This should be interesting..

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Well, the guy told me that to buy the bolts there and have them installed would be a ripoff. He recommended buying them elsewhere and installing them myself. He said to do that and then come back for the alignment.

They said that they could do the alignment but that they could not gurantee that the allignment would be w/in specs.

If the alignment is guranteed for 6 months and I have it done but the alignment is off, is it bad if I buy the bolts, install them, and then take it to another NTB to have it realigned?

breaux124

iTrader: (1)

If you don't even know your current specs then why did he recommend camber bolts? People recommend camber bolts when your alignment is still out of spec AFTER they used all the play they could with the alignment.

You can go to Firestone and get a lifetime alignment package for about $120-$130.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Here are my current specs:

Left Front:
Camber
-1.2* BAD
Caster
2.8* Good
Toe
0.15 in BAD

Right Front:
Camber
-1.1* BAD
Caster
2.9* Good
Toe
0.18 in BAD

Total Toe:
.034 in BAD

Steer Ahead:
-0.03* Good

All rear specs are acceptable.

So what does this all mean? HELP!

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

When you put the lower bolts in, did you pull positive camber? Pull the top of the hub/rotor twards you and push the bottom inwards.

The drop with H&R's does not require camber correction. I've never used or had anybody I've installed springs on need camber bolts. Just the toe needed to be set.

Jack the car up this weekend, loosen the lower mounting bolts and pull as much positve camber as you can. Then tighten everything up again. The car should be well within spec.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

I will do that this weekend and see what happens.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

A good shop would know that there is some play to adjust camber on suspension setups like our cars have. You could just ask them to loosen up the bolts and see how far they can pull is back. Making sure both sides are as close to each other as possible. Might wanna give them a call back and see if there willing to do that for you while the car is still there. Doesn't hurt to ask....

Good luck!!

EDIT: Looking at those numbers again I see what you did. Normally toe goes out when you pull camber max twards the positive direction. Your values went in further. You pushed in the wrong direction when you tightened everything up. Thats why your camber went so far negative and your toe went more inwards instead of out.

You can correct your setup easily in your driveway by following my guide. If you want any more detail, PM me and I'll be glad to help you out.

breaux124

iTrader: (1)

Good info about alignments:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...eral/align.htm

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

I hate to ressurect this thread, but I was preoccupied with my impending interview last week so I did not really have the option of leaving the car there and having them try to fix it. So should I have them try to losen things up and adjust the camber with the OEM bolts?

Also, Toe should be adjustable w/o any modifications, right?

Vesaijan

iTrader: (1)

I think there's a faq for factory camber and caster specs in the faq sheet. If I remember correctly, factory range for camber is +1 to -1 . I would say forego the bolts unless you're on fast wearing tires.

RL

rmb

Nah.... I've got one side at -1.7 and the other at -.7 for whatever reason.

I've never had any problem with wear.

Yours is also pretty even and close to spec. Negative camber helps a bit in corners too.

-RMB

breaux124

iTrader: (1)

My experience was MUCH different. I had -1.4 and -1.5 and my tires wore unevenly. They only lasted less than 20K miles before the inner tread became too low for daily driving.

Agreed that more negative camber helps with turns, but unless you plan to autocross the added traction versus wear isn't worth it.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I agree with Breaux. I had neg 1.2 on one of my fronts and it killed the tire wear by about 1/3 or more. And having -1.7 one side and -.7 on the other doens't really help handling that much. Too different. Would probably hinder more than help.