Auto tranny drop resistor mod questions
#42
The WOT switch is a two position switch? Because you have to remember, the switch has to keep the connection live till the switch gets hit. Thats good news if the WOT is able to do that. Too bad I spent so much time making a harness for the relays and stuff.. =P
Originally posted by Jime
I checked out my WOT switch and its 10 amps so you could probably wire it direct without the relay, thats what I am going to do with mine.
I checked out my WOT switch and its 10 amps so you could probably wire it direct without the relay, thats what I am going to do with mine.
#43
Originally posted by ZuMBLe
The WOT switch is a two position switch? Because you have to remember, the switch has to keep the connection live till the switch gets hit. Thats good news if the WOT is able to do that. Too bad I spent so much time making a harness for the relays and stuff.. =P
The WOT switch is a two position switch? Because you have to remember, the switch has to keep the connection live till the switch gets hit. Thats good news if the WOT is able to do that. Too bad I spent so much time making a harness for the relays and stuff.. =P
#44
That brings us back to where to get the positive signal for the relay. Or do you think feeding the relay straight from the battery is okay?
Originally posted by Jime
No its a normally open switch. You are right, you need a relay with a normally closed contact which will open when activated, I forgot about that, just the switch won't work. You didn't waste your time.
No its a normally open switch. You are right, you need a relay with a normally closed contact which will open when activated, I forgot about that, just the switch won't work. You didn't waste your time.
#45
Originally posted by ZuMBLe
That brings us back to where to get the positive signal for the relay. Or do you think feeding the relay straight from the battery is okay?
That brings us back to where to get the positive signal for the relay. Or do you think feeding the relay straight from the battery is okay?
#46
Why not check the resistance of the resistor that is already there from the factory, then adjust the value, until you get the shifts you like? Then make a switch to change between the factory shift and your modified resistor shift?
Does anyone know the value of the stock resistor?
If you change the value slighty, could you crisp up the shift without damaging anything? and not have it BANG into gear?
2maximas
Does anyone know the value of the stock resistor?
If you change the value slighty, could you crisp up the shift without damaging anything? and not have it BANG into gear?
2maximas
#47
Forgive me, I'm not an electronics expert. It would drain from the battery even if the ground isn't switched on?
Originally posted by Jime
It would probably be ok but could put a slight drain on you battery over a long period of time. I would try and find a source that is switched on with the ignition. I will probably get mine done this week but just not there yet, have a bunch of stuff to try and finish before going to the track this weekend. (I hope)
It would probably be ok but could put a slight drain on you battery over a long period of time. I would try and find a source that is switched on with the ignition. I will probably get mine done this week but just not there yet, have a bunch of stuff to try and finish before going to the track this weekend. (I hope)
#48
I think a few members tried the variable resistor route and ended up with cabin fires. Maybe they picked the wrong resistor, who knows. My method would only bang shifts at WOT anyway.
Originally posted by 2maximas
Why not check the resistance of the resistor that is already there from the factory, then adjust the value, until you get the shifts you like? Then make a switch to change between the factory shift and your modified resistor shift?
Does anyone know the value of the stock resistor?
If you change the value slighty, could you crisp up the shift without damaging anything? and not have it BANG into gear?
2maximas
Why not check the resistance of the resistor that is already there from the factory, then adjust the value, until you get the shifts you like? Then make a switch to change between the factory shift and your modified resistor shift?
Does anyone know the value of the stock resistor?
If you change the value slighty, could you crisp up the shift without damaging anything? and not have it BANG into gear?
2maximas
#49
Well the resistor that is there is ceramic encased, indicating that it takes allot of watts, so you would have to have a resistor of sufficent wattage. Yes I know what you are talking about, but I am more interested in a switch to go from standard shift to "crisp" shift, not a BANG type shift. It would require some experimentation to find the right resistance value, then have a switch to change from one resistor to the other one. I do not think a "variable" resistor would have the current capacity to handle the load. That is why a cabin fire would result. Too much current through a variable resistor would cause a fire.
It's just a thought, the tranny life would be increased, while still getting the resulting crisp shift.
2maximas
It's just a thought, the tranny life would be increased, while still getting the resulting crisp shift.
2maximas
#50
Originally posted by 2maximas
Well the resistor that is there is ceramic encased, indicating that it takes allot of watts, so you would have to have a resistor of sufficent wattage. Yes I know what you are talking about, but I am more interested in a switch to go from standard shift to "crisp" shift, not a BANG type shift. It would require some experimentation to find the right resistance value, then have a switch to change from one resistor to the other one. I do not think a "variable" resistor would have the current capacity to handle the load. That is why a cabin fire would result. Too much current through a variable resistor would cause a fire.
It's just a thought, the tranny life would be increased, while still getting the resulting crisp shift.
2maximas
Well the resistor that is there is ceramic encased, indicating that it takes allot of watts, so you would have to have a resistor of sufficent wattage. Yes I know what you are talking about, but I am more interested in a switch to go from standard shift to "crisp" shift, not a BANG type shift. It would require some experimentation to find the right resistance value, then have a switch to change from one resistor to the other one. I do not think a "variable" resistor would have the current capacity to handle the load. That is why a cabin fire would result. Too much current through a variable resistor would cause a fire.
It's just a thought, the tranny life would be increased, while still getting the resulting crisp shift.
2maximas
Its a good thought though, just wish it would work.
#51
My setup works. I got the NX WOT switch installed. I know it worked because I got a CEL and pulled a 1205 code. =) I can't really tell you how the shift was yet. I kept the car in 1st gear but I didn't shift in to 2nd fast enough cuz of the VI I just installed. I bounced the rev limiter and got the CEL. I didn't continue testing thinking I'd done engine damage. But I pulled the code and its from the resistor mod. =P So all in all. I got the code and didn't even get to feel a shift. =P
Basic install guideline:
Dual position relay in the front relay box in front of the battery.
The unenergized position connects the drop resistor.
Positive signal for the relay is connected to the + terminal of the battery.
The ground signal is provided by the negative terminal of the battery which runs through the WOT switch.
ZuM
Basic install guideline:
Dual position relay in the front relay box in front of the battery.
The unenergized position connects the drop resistor.
Positive signal for the relay is connected to the + terminal of the battery.
The ground signal is provided by the negative terminal of the battery which runs through the WOT switch.
ZuM
Originally posted by Jime
It would probably be ok but could put a slight drain on you battery over a long period of time. I would try and find a source that is switched on with the ignition. I will probably get mine done this week but just not there yet, have a bunch of stuff to try and finish before going to the track this weekend. (I hope)
It would probably be ok but could put a slight drain on you battery over a long period of time. I would try and find a source that is switched on with the ignition. I will probably get mine done this week but just not there yet, have a bunch of stuff to try and finish before going to the track this weekend. (I hope)
#52
Hey Zum just an update.
I ran across a couple of microswitches this week that are almost identical to the nitrous ones. Except that they have a contact for N/O (normally open) and N/C (normally closed).
So I replaced my WOT switch with one of these and it works fine without the relay which I am now using for another purpose.
It has 3 connectors on it vs 2 for the standard Nitrous WOT switch so if you ever run across any you can eliminate the relay if you want.
Jim
I ran across a couple of microswitches this week that are almost identical to the nitrous ones. Except that they have a contact for N/O (normally open) and N/C (normally closed).
So I replaced my WOT switch with one of these and it works fine without the relay which I am now using for another purpose.
It has 3 connectors on it vs 2 for the standard Nitrous WOT switch so if you ever run across any you can eliminate the relay if you want.
Jim
#53
Where did you get this switches from? I'm feeding my relay straight from the battery. I'm afraid it will fail on my one day because I'm putting too much juice to the signal side. It would be nice to get rid of it.
ZuM
ZuM
Originally posted by Jime
Hey Zum just an update.
I ran across a couple of microswitches this week that are almost identical to the nitrous ones. Except that they have a contact for N/O (normally open) and N/C (normally closed).
So I replaced my WOT switch with one of these and it works fine without the relay which I am now using for another purpose.
It has 3 connectors on it vs 2 for the standard Nitrous WOT switch so if you ever run across any you can eliminate the relay if you want.
Jim
Hey Zum just an update.
I ran across a couple of microswitches this week that are almost identical to the nitrous ones. Except that they have a contact for N/O (normally open) and N/C (normally closed).
So I replaced my WOT switch with one of these and it works fine without the relay which I am now using for another purpose.
It has 3 connectors on it vs 2 for the standard Nitrous WOT switch so if you ever run across any you can eliminate the relay if you want.
Jim
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