first off I found that 4 of 6 plugs were not even tight, as in at all. I changed them last time and I do not over tighten them due to the fact that we have aluminum heads, but I still tighten them adequately. Next finding is that on the two that were the most loose, which were the two next to the timing chain, I had oil in the plug hole. This is what has been causing my smoking under cold starts. Was this due to the loose spark plugs? would the lack of compression cause blow by? On a side note my car is now running like a bat outta hell!!! New to the track Friday is, new fuel filter, new PCV valve, new platinum +4 plugs,(best plugs I can find in my little town) Harlen switch set to 5K and budget Y pipe.

 

the +4 plugs are no good. Why do you have Harlan switch and how long did it take you to receive it after you ordered it?

 

Well I will comment on the +4 plugs after friday night. and I have a Harlen switch for my MEVI, it took me 2 weeks to recieve it.

 

+4 are not good for out engines. They blow out the ignition coils. Get NGK and dont be cheap!

 

What Val said. I ordered my Window switch like 4 days ago.

 

As I said they were the best I could get around here, unless i wanted to run ac delco's I am not cheap.

 

You need to replace your valve cover gasket. It comes with the seals for the spark plug holes as well. The kit is pretty cheap and is fairly easy to do yourself.

If the oil gets under the coil's boot on the spark plug, you'll get misfires.

 

You can order NGK spark plugs online...... look in the links section of the website and you will find links to alot of places you can order the NGK's from....... Return those +4 plugs ASAFP...... lol

 

man you can't return plugs. I can't just be out $36
I got to at least get a month or two out of them. How can these possibly be bad for the coils? they don't require any more voltage or amperage than a convential mono pole plug. therefore there should not be any more load on the coils. of course I could be wrong. I hope not, cause I can't just scrap a nearly $40 set of plugs.

 

I didnt think about no refund on plugs... lol...... Use them temporarily until you can get the NGK's..... The +4 plugs tend to foul easier.....

 

The plugs tend to run hotter on some cars causing the spark plug seals to fail and have to be replaced. . . At least that is what happened on my car. Others have had some luck with them, but my car definately does better with NGKs.

 

Bosch plugs in the VQ are no good. I've tried them and others have too. You should have searched the Org before buying them because you're going to experience poor performance with these plugs. I never thought plugs would make such a difference on any car. For the VQ, it's NGKs or nothing. You can get the OEM copper replacements for a mere $10 a set.


Dave

 

so what is the best plug for a NA car with some bolt ons.. like plurco and i?

i hear that NGK coppers are good but im cluless in that area.. i need to know bc i will be changing my plugs soon for my 50k tune up... from what i know the original plugs are still in my car.. i have to take them out and check them what are some signs i should look for for bad plugs.

 

Check the plugs in a few days for oil, might have just been because of the loose plugs. I had problems with loose plugs also and had lots of oil in the spark plug wells. I was using Bosch +4s at the time. All 4 electrodes on one plug were missing completely. I would recomend using a torque wrench when replacing plugs to avoid problems with them being too tight or loose.

 

I had no problems with the +4's but some have. Be careful with those plugs and change them at 30K to NGK.

 

He did. I tried to explain it to him, but he just woudn't listen.

Davy doesn't let any internet punk E-thug tell him what plugs to buy

 

I used nothing but the regular Bosch Platinums in every Nissan I have owned and they always worked perfectly. Too bad they aren't availible for the VQ35.

 

Maybe everyone remembers my problem with MY plugs... If I could do it again I'd go with the NGKs- my engine started running better for a lil while (Plugs were over 70K old) and then roughly. Anyway... anyone have any idea how hard a task it is to tap and drill to remove a spark plug which has been stripped? (I found one in cylinder 5 and couldn't replace. If anyone knows... what tools would I need?

 

i'll rpobably change them in about 5K, I just have to get a little use out of them. and the car really does run strong with them. If the NGK's run better I will be thrilled. I might do a ET comparison between +4's and NGK's.