CV axle replacement
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 69
From: South Attleboro
It's rather easy if you have the right tools, but here is a detailed step by step guide: http://web.archive.org/web/200703102...ca/mvp.php/401
Autozone did a video tutorial on how to remove the axle on a 95 Max, you can find that here:
Read the Motorvate guide a couple times, watch the video, go slow, and bang it out.
Autozone did a video tutorial on how to remove the axle on a 95 Max, you can find that here:
Read the Motorvate guide a couple times, watch the video, go slow, and bang it out.
Depends on you level of expertise. Even then, it can still go both ways. If you live in the snowbelt, corrosion makes it harder to get bolts off. If you encounter a nut or bolt that doesn't want to loosen up, use a 6 point socket to keep from stripping it.
Here is a little write-up I did my 97 to remind my self for when I had to do it again.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Axle replacement on a 4th gen Maxima.
This write-up is based on the job being done on a 1997 Maxima with an automatic transmission. As far as I can determine, the procedure is the same if you have a standard transmission with the exception that you have to drain the transmission oil first.
Tools needed:
car jack
pair of jack stands
36 mm socket
21 mm socket
19 mm socket
14 mm socket
12 mm socket
ratchet wrenches
extensions - 12, 6 and 3 inch
universal joint
breaker bar (if you don't have an impact wrench)
assorted pry bars
hammer(s)
drifts
bailing wire or equivalent
2 large size cotter pins
Just in case tools:
19 mm (or 3/4 inch) open end wrench
12 mm box wrench
12 mm open end wrench
2 medium size cotter pins
Removal of old axle:
If you don't have an impact wrench then while the car is on the ground, loosen the axle nut (36 mm socket) and the wheel lug nuts (21 mm socket). Jack the car up as far as you can (you will be working under the car) and support it on the jack stands. Remove the wheels.
Remove the clip that holds the brake line to the strut and free the brake line from the bracket.
Remove the 2 bolts that connect the strut to the steering knuckle. Use a 19 mm socket on the nut and a 17 mm socket on the bolt.
Remove the axle nut (36 mm). Have the bailing wire (or equivalent) close by and handy. Remove the steering knuckle, wheel hub, brake caliper and brake rotor from the axle as one assembly. This is a tricky task because this is one heavy mother. A hard tap on the axle shaft will free it from the hub, but because the tie rod is still attached to the steering knuckle, you have to pivot the wheel hub assembly towards the rear of the car to remove it. As you pull, the axle will probably extend and follow, so you may need to keep pushing on the axle shaft while you are pulling the wheel hub assembly off. Once you have the wheel hub assembly free, you must support it so that it does not rip the brake line apart. Use the bailing wire (or equivalent) to hold it up. I used coat hangers and ran the wire through a bolt hole in the steering knuckle that is used for the strut bolt and hung it from one of the spring coils.
If for some reason you can't get the axle out of the wheel hub, you will have to separate the lower control arm from the steering knuckle by disconnecting the ball joint. Temporarily re-connect the steering knuckle to the strut to hold it while you do the following:
Remove the top nut and bushing from the sway bar (14 mm socket and 12 mm open end wrench).
Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the ball joint (19 mm open end wrench). Unscrew the nut until it is flush with or slightly above the top of the stud. Using a pry bar, position it between the axle and the top of the ball joint nut. Pry down on the ball joint until it breaks free of the steering knuckle. Depending on how tight or corroded the ball joint shaft is in the steering knuckle, you may have to resort to methods other than prying. Spraying with a penetrating fluid may help. Instead of prying, driving a wedge between the ball joint nut and the axle may work. Once the ball joint shaft is free, completely remove the nut. Pry down on the lower control arm until the ball joint stud comes out of the steering knuckle.
Right Side Axle:
Crawl under the car and locate the axle center support. There are 3 bolts that need to be removed. Using a 12 mm socket on a 12 inch long extension connected to a u-joint on a 6 inch extension, remove the bolts. The axle will now slide out if it is a Nissan axle. Other brands may hang up in the center support. It is always recommended to replace the oil seal in the differential housing, so while you are under the car, pry out the old axle seal.
Left Side Axle:
Crawl under the car and free the axle. Using a pry bar, insert it between the differential housing and the axle. Use a sharp jerking motion instead of a steadily increasing pressure and the axle should pop right out. You can now slide the old axle out. It is always recommended to replace the oil seal in the differential housing, so while you are under the car, pry out the old axle seal.
The removal part is now complete. Give yourself a pat on the back and go have a beer.
OK, you bum - get back to work.
If you are replacing the oil seals in the differential, be prepared for a big pain in the butt. Oil seals are a 30 second install when you have open space around where you are working. Unfortunately, you don't have the open space here, so anticipate being frustrated. Having long drifts is a definite plus. Note that the left and right oil seals are not the same. They look very similar and the outside diameter is the same, which would let you install the seal on either side. The inner opening that the axle shaft goes through is the difference. The left axle (driver's side) is larger.
Installation of the axle is a reversal of the removal.
If you are replacing the left axle (driver's side), one important thing you need to do is check the new axle and see if there is a snap ring on the splined end that goes into the differential. It's about a quarter inch from the very end. If not, then remove the snap ring from the old axle. When putting the axle into the differential, this snap ring has to compress. The secret is to get the axle perfectly straight when you push it in.
If you are replacing the right axle (passenger side), getting the center support bearing into the support can also be difficult. If the new center bearing won't slide in easily, I would recommend that you line up the boltholes in the flange before you start tapping it in with a hammer. Tap on the flange itself, NOT the axle.
Here is a little write-up I did my 97 to remind my self for when I had to do it again.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Axle replacement on a 4th gen Maxima.
This write-up is based on the job being done on a 1997 Maxima with an automatic transmission. As far as I can determine, the procedure is the same if you have a standard transmission with the exception that you have to drain the transmission oil first.
Tools needed:
car jack
pair of jack stands
36 mm socket
21 mm socket
19 mm socket
14 mm socket
12 mm socket
ratchet wrenches
extensions - 12, 6 and 3 inch
universal joint
breaker bar (if you don't have an impact wrench)
assorted pry bars
hammer(s)
drifts
bailing wire or equivalent
2 large size cotter pins
Just in case tools:
19 mm (or 3/4 inch) open end wrench
12 mm box wrench
12 mm open end wrench
2 medium size cotter pins
Removal of old axle:
If you don't have an impact wrench then while the car is on the ground, loosen the axle nut (36 mm socket) and the wheel lug nuts (21 mm socket). Jack the car up as far as you can (you will be working under the car) and support it on the jack stands. Remove the wheels.
Remove the clip that holds the brake line to the strut and free the brake line from the bracket.
Remove the 2 bolts that connect the strut to the steering knuckle. Use a 19 mm socket on the nut and a 17 mm socket on the bolt.
Remove the axle nut (36 mm). Have the bailing wire (or equivalent) close by and handy. Remove the steering knuckle, wheel hub, brake caliper and brake rotor from the axle as one assembly. This is a tricky task because this is one heavy mother. A hard tap on the axle shaft will free it from the hub, but because the tie rod is still attached to the steering knuckle, you have to pivot the wheel hub assembly towards the rear of the car to remove it. As you pull, the axle will probably extend and follow, so you may need to keep pushing on the axle shaft while you are pulling the wheel hub assembly off. Once you have the wheel hub assembly free, you must support it so that it does not rip the brake line apart. Use the bailing wire (or equivalent) to hold it up. I used coat hangers and ran the wire through a bolt hole in the steering knuckle that is used for the strut bolt and hung it from one of the spring coils.
If for some reason you can't get the axle out of the wheel hub, you will have to separate the lower control arm from the steering knuckle by disconnecting the ball joint. Temporarily re-connect the steering knuckle to the strut to hold it while you do the following:
Remove the top nut and bushing from the sway bar (14 mm socket and 12 mm open end wrench).
Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the ball joint (19 mm open end wrench). Unscrew the nut until it is flush with or slightly above the top of the stud. Using a pry bar, position it between the axle and the top of the ball joint nut. Pry down on the ball joint until it breaks free of the steering knuckle. Depending on how tight or corroded the ball joint shaft is in the steering knuckle, you may have to resort to methods other than prying. Spraying with a penetrating fluid may help. Instead of prying, driving a wedge between the ball joint nut and the axle may work. Once the ball joint shaft is free, completely remove the nut. Pry down on the lower control arm until the ball joint stud comes out of the steering knuckle.
Right Side Axle:
Crawl under the car and locate the axle center support. There are 3 bolts that need to be removed. Using a 12 mm socket on a 12 inch long extension connected to a u-joint on a 6 inch extension, remove the bolts. The axle will now slide out if it is a Nissan axle. Other brands may hang up in the center support. It is always recommended to replace the oil seal in the differential housing, so while you are under the car, pry out the old axle seal.
Left Side Axle:
Crawl under the car and free the axle. Using a pry bar, insert it between the differential housing and the axle. Use a sharp jerking motion instead of a steadily increasing pressure and the axle should pop right out. You can now slide the old axle out. It is always recommended to replace the oil seal in the differential housing, so while you are under the car, pry out the old axle seal.
The removal part is now complete. Give yourself a pat on the back and go have a beer.
OK, you bum - get back to work.
If you are replacing the oil seals in the differential, be prepared for a big pain in the butt. Oil seals are a 30 second install when you have open space around where you are working. Unfortunately, you don't have the open space here, so anticipate being frustrated. Having long drifts is a definite plus. Note that the left and right oil seals are not the same. They look very similar and the outside diameter is the same, which would let you install the seal on either side. The inner opening that the axle shaft goes through is the difference. The left axle (driver's side) is larger.
Installation of the axle is a reversal of the removal.
If you are replacing the left axle (driver's side), one important thing you need to do is check the new axle and see if there is a snap ring on the splined end that goes into the differential. It's about a quarter inch from the very end. If not, then remove the snap ring from the old axle. When putting the axle into the differential, this snap ring has to compress. The secret is to get the axle perfectly straight when you push it in.
If you are replacing the right axle (passenger side), getting the center support bearing into the support can also be difficult. If the new center bearing won't slide in easily, I would recommend that you line up the boltholes in the flange before you start tapping it in with a hammer. Tap on the flange itself, NOT the axle.
It takes a few hours to do each side, maybe less if you just replacing the axles and not changing the CV boots.
If your car is not lowered (and no camber bolts utilized), a wheel alignment is not needed. However, if you use camber bolts, then an alignment is not needed.
I use the QuikTrik Alignment system, so I adjust camber after I put things back together.
If your car is not lowered (and no camber bolts utilized), a wheel alignment is not needed. However, if you use camber bolts, then an alignment is not needed.
I use the QuikTrik Alignment system, so I adjust camber after I put things back together.
What ef9 said for time seems about right to me. I needed a day and a half to do both but that was because I had had a minor heat stroke 3 weeks earlier and I would get sick after about an hour in the heat. For me, I'd say half my time was getting the right side axle seal in. That damn thing did not want to co-operate.
Depends on you level of expertise. Even then, it can still go both ways. If you live in the snowbelt, corrosion makes it harder to get bolts off. If you encounter a nut or bolt that doesn't want to loosen up, use a 6 point socket to keep from stripping it.
Here is a little write-up I did my 97 to remind my self for when I had to do it again.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Axle replacement on a 4th gen Maxima.
This write-up is based on the job being done on a 1997 Maxima with an automatic transmission. As far as I can determine, the procedure is the same if you have a standard transmission with the exception that you have to drain the transmission oil first.
Tools needed:
car jack
pair of jack stands
36 mm socket
21 mm socket
19 mm socket
14 mm socket
12 mm socket
ratchet wrenches
extensions - 12, 6 and 3 inch
universal joint
breaker bar (if you don't have an impact wrench)
assorted pry bars
hammer(s)
drifts
bailing wire or equivalent
2 large size cotter pins
Just in case tools:
19 mm (or 3/4 inch) open end wrench
12 mm box wrench
12 mm open end wrench
2 medium size cotter pins
Removal of old axle:
If you don't have an impact wrench then while the car is on the ground, loosen the axle nut (36 mm socket) and the wheel lug nuts (21 mm socket). Jack the car up as far as you can (you will be working under the car) and support it on the jack stands. Remove the wheels.
Remove the clip that holds the brake line to the strut and free the brake line from the bracket.
Remove the 2 bolts that connect the strut to the steering knuckle. Use a 19 mm socket on the nut and a 17 mm socket on the bolt.
Remove the axle nut (36 mm). Have the bailing wire (or equivalent) close by and handy. Remove the steering knuckle, wheel hub, brake caliper and brake rotor from the axle as one assembly. This is a tricky task because this is one heavy mother. A hard tap on the axle shaft will free it from the hub, but because the tie rod is still attached to the steering knuckle, you have to pivot the wheel hub assembly towards the rear of the car to remove it. As you pull, the axle will probably extend and follow, so you may need to keep pushing on the axle shaft while you are pulling the wheel hub assembly off. Once you have the wheel hub assembly free, you must support it so that it does not rip the brake line apart. Use the bailing wire (or equivalent) to hold it up. I used coat hangers and ran the wire through a bolt hole in the steering knuckle that is used for the strut bolt and hung it from one of the spring coils.
If for some reason you can't get the axle out of the wheel hub, you will have to separate the lower control arm from the steering knuckle by disconnecting the ball joint. Temporarily re-connect the steering knuckle to the strut to hold it while you do the following:
Remove the top nut and bushing from the sway bar (14 mm socket and 12 mm open end wrench).
Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the ball joint (19 mm open end wrench). Unscrew the nut until it is flush with or slightly above the top of the stud. Using a pry bar, position it between the axle and the top of the ball joint nut. Pry down on the ball joint until it breaks free of the steering knuckle. Depending on how tight or corroded the ball joint shaft is in the steering knuckle, you may have to resort to methods other than prying. Spraying with a penetrating fluid may help. Instead of prying, driving a wedge between the ball joint nut and the axle may work. Once the ball joint shaft is free, completely remove the nut. Pry down on the lower control arm until the ball joint stud comes out of the steering knuckle.
Right Side Axle:
Crawl under the car and locate the axle center support. There are 3 bolts that need to be removed. Using a 12 mm socket on a 12 inch long extension connected to a u-joint on a 6 inch extension, remove the bolts. The axle will now slide out if it is a Nissan axle. Other brands may hang up in the center support. It is always recommended to replace the oil seal in the differential housing, so while you are under the car, pry out the old axle seal.
Left Side Axle:
Crawl under the car and free the axle. Using a pry bar, insert it between the differential housing and the axle. Use a sharp jerking motion instead of a steadily increasing pressure and the axle should pop right out. You can now slide the old axle out. It is always recommended to replace the oil seal in the differential housing, so while you are under the car, pry out the old axle seal.
The removal part is now complete. Give yourself a pat on the back and go have a beer.
OK, you bum - get back to work.
If you are replacing the oil seals in the differential, be prepared for a big pain in the butt. Oil seals are a 30 second install when you have open space around where you are working. Unfortunately, you don't have the open space here, so anticipate being frustrated. Having long drifts is a definite plus. Note that the left and right oil seals are not the same. They look very similar and the outside diameter is the same, which would let you install the seal on either side. The inner opening that the axle shaft goes through is the difference. The left axle (driver's side) is larger.
Installation of the axle is a reversal of the removal.
If you are replacing the left axle (driver's side), one important thing you need to do is check the new axle and see if there is a snap ring on the splined end that goes into the differential. It's about a quarter inch from the very end. If not, then remove the snap ring from the old axle. When putting the axle into the differential, this snap ring has to compress. The secret is to get the axle perfectly straight when you push it in.
If you are replacing the right axle (passenger side), getting the center support bearing into the support can also be difficult. If the new center bearing won't slide in easily, I would recommend that you line up the boltholes in the flange before you start tapping it in with a hammer. Tap on the flange itself, NOT the axle.
Here is a little write-up I did my 97 to remind my self for when I had to do it again.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Axle replacement on a 4th gen Maxima.
This write-up is based on the job being done on a 1997 Maxima with an automatic transmission. As far as I can determine, the procedure is the same if you have a standard transmission with the exception that you have to drain the transmission oil first.
Tools needed:
car jack
pair of jack stands
36 mm socket
21 mm socket
19 mm socket
14 mm socket
12 mm socket
ratchet wrenches
extensions - 12, 6 and 3 inch
universal joint
breaker bar (if you don't have an impact wrench)
assorted pry bars
hammer(s)
drifts
bailing wire or equivalent
2 large size cotter pins
Just in case tools:
19 mm (or 3/4 inch) open end wrench
12 mm box wrench
12 mm open end wrench
2 medium size cotter pins
Removal of old axle:
If you don't have an impact wrench then while the car is on the ground, loosen the axle nut (36 mm socket) and the wheel lug nuts (21 mm socket). Jack the car up as far as you can (you will be working under the car) and support it on the jack stands. Remove the wheels.
Remove the clip that holds the brake line to the strut and free the brake line from the bracket.
Remove the 2 bolts that connect the strut to the steering knuckle. Use a 19 mm socket on the nut and a 17 mm socket on the bolt.
Remove the axle nut (36 mm). Have the bailing wire (or equivalent) close by and handy. Remove the steering knuckle, wheel hub, brake caliper and brake rotor from the axle as one assembly. This is a tricky task because this is one heavy mother. A hard tap on the axle shaft will free it from the hub, but because the tie rod is still attached to the steering knuckle, you have to pivot the wheel hub assembly towards the rear of the car to remove it. As you pull, the axle will probably extend and follow, so you may need to keep pushing on the axle shaft while you are pulling the wheel hub assembly off. Once you have the wheel hub assembly free, you must support it so that it does not rip the brake line apart. Use the bailing wire (or equivalent) to hold it up. I used coat hangers and ran the wire through a bolt hole in the steering knuckle that is used for the strut bolt and hung it from one of the spring coils.
If for some reason you can't get the axle out of the wheel hub, you will have to separate the lower control arm from the steering knuckle by disconnecting the ball joint. Temporarily re-connect the steering knuckle to the strut to hold it while you do the following:
Remove the top nut and bushing from the sway bar (14 mm socket and 12 mm open end wrench).
Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the ball joint (19 mm open end wrench). Unscrew the nut until it is flush with or slightly above the top of the stud. Using a pry bar, position it between the axle and the top of the ball joint nut. Pry down on the ball joint until it breaks free of the steering knuckle. Depending on how tight or corroded the ball joint shaft is in the steering knuckle, you may have to resort to methods other than prying. Spraying with a penetrating fluid may help. Instead of prying, driving a wedge between the ball joint nut and the axle may work. Once the ball joint shaft is free, completely remove the nut. Pry down on the lower control arm until the ball joint stud comes out of the steering knuckle.
Right Side Axle:
Crawl under the car and locate the axle center support. There are 3 bolts that need to be removed. Using a 12 mm socket on a 12 inch long extension connected to a u-joint on a 6 inch extension, remove the bolts. The axle will now slide out if it is a Nissan axle. Other brands may hang up in the center support. It is always recommended to replace the oil seal in the differential housing, so while you are under the car, pry out the old axle seal.
Left Side Axle:
Crawl under the car and free the axle. Using a pry bar, insert it between the differential housing and the axle. Use a sharp jerking motion instead of a steadily increasing pressure and the axle should pop right out. You can now slide the old axle out. It is always recommended to replace the oil seal in the differential housing, so while you are under the car, pry out the old axle seal.
The removal part is now complete. Give yourself a pat on the back and go have a beer.
OK, you bum - get back to work.
If you are replacing the oil seals in the differential, be prepared for a big pain in the butt. Oil seals are a 30 second install when you have open space around where you are working. Unfortunately, you don't have the open space here, so anticipate being frustrated. Having long drifts is a definite plus. Note that the left and right oil seals are not the same. They look very similar and the outside diameter is the same, which would let you install the seal on either side. The inner opening that the axle shaft goes through is the difference. The left axle (driver's side) is larger.
Installation of the axle is a reversal of the removal.
If you are replacing the left axle (driver's side), one important thing you need to do is check the new axle and see if there is a snap ring on the splined end that goes into the differential. It's about a quarter inch from the very end. If not, then remove the snap ring from the old axle. When putting the axle into the differential, this snap ring has to compress. The secret is to get the axle perfectly straight when you push it in.
If you are replacing the right axle (passenger side), getting the center support bearing into the support can also be difficult. If the new center bearing won't slide in easily, I would recommend that you line up the boltholes in the flange before you start tapping it in with a hammer. Tap on the flange itself, NOT the axle.
To get the axle back in, you better have a lot of patience and have better eaten your Wheaties, as it gets tiring trying to get that little ****er back in.
More than likely, yes. If your strut mount has oval holes in it at the hub, your alignment will be thrown off. You can try to mark it prior to removal and hope you don't alter the alignment. If your strut mount has perfect circles and the bolt can just fit through, your alignment will probably be ok.
More than likely, yes. If your strut mount has oval holes in it at the hub, your alignment will be thrown off. You can try to mark it prior to removal and hope you don't alter the alignment. If your strut mount has perfect circles and the bolt can just fit through, your alignment will probably be ok.
If for some reason you can't get the axle out of the wheel hub, you will have to separate the lower control arm from the steering knuckle by disconnecting the ball joint. Temporarily re-connect the steering knuckle to the strut to hold it while you do the following:
Remove the top nut and bushing from the sway bar (14 mm socket and 12 mm open end wrench).
Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the ball joint (19 mm open end wrench). Unscrew the nut until it is flush with or slightly above the top of the stud. Using a pry bar, position it between the axle and the top of the ball joint nut. Pry down on the ball joint until it breaks free of the steering knuckle. Depending on how tight or corroded the ball joint shaft is in the steering knuckle, you may have to resort to methods other than prying. Spraying with a penetrating fluid may help. Instead of prying, driving a wedge between the ball joint nut and the axle may work. Once the ball joint shaft is free, completely remove the nut. Pry down on the lower control arm until the ball joint stud comes out of the steering knuckle.
I always do the above, as it saves time and grief. And the driver-side, I remove the strut as it is simpler for me to reinstall the axle back into the transmission.
Remove the top nut and bushing from the sway bar (14 mm socket and 12 mm open end wrench).
Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the ball joint (19 mm open end wrench). Unscrew the nut until it is flush with or slightly above the top of the stud. Using a pry bar, position it between the axle and the top of the ball joint nut. Pry down on the ball joint until it breaks free of the steering knuckle. Depending on how tight or corroded the ball joint shaft is in the steering knuckle, you may have to resort to methods other than prying. Spraying with a penetrating fluid may help. Instead of prying, driving a wedge between the ball joint nut and the axle may work. Once the ball joint shaft is free, completely remove the nut. Pry down on the lower control arm until the ball joint stud comes out of the steering knuckle.
I always do the above, as it saves time and grief. And the driver-side, I remove the strut as it is simpler for me to reinstall the axle back into the transmission.
Id have to check, Im looking at getting the NAPA New axles, since raxles doesnt make them anymore for our cars. Stupid questions\ here, but are our cars open differential or locked? Im guessing open, since locked would be Limited slip correct? I have an Automatic SE-L if that makes a difference....
Mine is a VLSD since I swapped over a transmission from an I30t.
Just got my new axles from Napa, they are made by Cardone BTW. A few stupid questions, before I change them out for the first time....
1-The driverside should just "Pop" out with some pulling and if it doesnt, pry it out right with a crowbar? The passenger is held by the 12 mm bolts only correct?
2-do I need to refill the transmission with transmission fluid after everything is done? if so how much?
3- What should the 35 mm bolt that holds everything together at the wheel be torqued at when finished? or should I just tighten it up as much as possible?
Thanks....
1-The driverside should just "Pop" out with some pulling and if it doesnt, pry it out right with a crowbar? The passenger is held by the 12 mm bolts only correct?
2-do I need to refill the transmission with transmission fluid after everything is done? if so how much?
3- What should the 35 mm bolt that holds everything together at the wheel be torqued at when finished? or should I just tighten it up as much as possible?
Thanks....
Originally Posted by Stagnet04
Just got my new axles from Napa, they are made by Cardone BTW. A few stupid questions, before I change them out for the first time....
1-The driverside should just "Pop" out with some pulling and if it doesnt, pry it out right with a crowbar? The passenger is held by the 12 mm bolts only correct?
2-do I need to refill the transmission with transmission fluid after everything is done? if so how much?
3- What should the 35 mm bolt that holds everything together at the wheel be torqued at when finished? or should I just tighten it up as much as possible?
Thanks....
1-The driverside should just "Pop" out with some pulling and if it doesnt, pry it out right with a crowbar? The passenger is held by the 12 mm bolts only correct?
2-do I need to refill the transmission with transmission fluid after everything is done? if so how much?
3- What should the 35 mm bolt that holds everything together at the wheel be torqued at when finished? or should I just tighten it up as much as possible?
Thanks....
Passenger side is held in by those little bolts, I believe they are M8 bolts.
You need to refill the transmission. For autos use the dipstick and have the engine idle when checking level. For manuals, refill the normal way until fluid seeps out of fill hole.
I believe it is a 36mm socket. Remember how hard it is to remove, the. Apply similar torque when reinstalling. There is a cotter pin to prevent the nut from backing off.
Yes, driver side should pop out. If you do use a pry bar, be careful as there may be a metal lip that protects the output shaft seal.
Passenger side is held in by those little bolts, I believe they are M8 bolts.
You need to refill the transmission. For autos use the dipstick and have the engine idle when checking level. For manuals, refill the normal way until fluid seeps out of fill hole.
I believe it is a 36mm socket. Remember how hard it is to remove, the. Apply similar torque when reinstalling. There is a cotter pin to prevent the nut from backing off.
Passenger side is held in by those little bolts, I believe they are M8 bolts.
You need to refill the transmission. For autos use the dipstick and have the engine idle when checking level. For manuals, refill the normal way until fluid seeps out of fill hole.
I believe it is a 36mm socket. Remember how hard it is to remove, the. Apply similar torque when reinstalling. There is a cotter pin to prevent the nut from backing off.
Yeah I heard 200+ ft lbs too, thats why I asked cuz I dont have a torque wrench that goes that high, and theres no way Im gonna spend a small fortune to buy one either....
That's only true if the torque wrench is 12" long to begin with. Otherwise, some simple math can be done to get the needed results.
I have to say that, yeah, this thread should definitley be in the stickies. I used everyones reference from this thread to change out my driverside axle for the first time and it took me about 1.5 hrs. I can probably cut that time in half for next time. I was getting this crazy shaking/vibration when accelerating and after changing the axle, man, my car is smooth like a hot knife through butter....
Thanks all, I really appreciate it....
Thanks all, I really appreciate it....
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Posts: 4
2014 Nissan Maxima won't move
Hey guys, about 2 years or more ago, my wife hit a giant pot hole causing the passenger side cv axle to pop out. A new one was installed, but the car wouldn't move. It stayed parked for all these years until earlier this year we realized the driver side axle had some play in it. That axle was also replaced with a new one, transmission fluid was checked and added as needed. The car still won't move in drive or reverse. Any ideas?
Senior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,620
From: Long Island
When you shift into Drive or Reverse and it doesn't do anything like changing engine speed a little or surge either way a bit, it now has more to do with your transmission.
Maybe your old motor mounts and/or transmission mounts and/or lower radiator support is rotted and allowed the jolt to break something in the final drive and/or shift mechanism and shifter linkage.
Maybe your old motor mounts and/or transmission mounts and/or lower radiator support is rotted and allowed the jolt to break something in the final drive and/or shift mechanism and shifter linkage.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 4
When you shift into Drive or Reverse and it doesn't do anything like changing engine speed a little or surge either way a bit, it now has more to do with your transmission.
Maybe your old motor mounts and/or transmission mounts and/or lower radiator support is rotted and allowed the jolt to break something in the final drive and/or shift mechanism and shifter linkage.
Maybe your old motor mounts and/or transmission mounts and/or lower radiator support is rotted and allowed the jolt to break something in the final drive and/or shift mechanism and shifter linkage.
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