Hi everyone.
I've been trying to diagnose where this noise is coming from for several months without any result. I know it's coming from the front.
This high-pitched squeal/whistling/rubbing sound comes on after driving the car for ~10-20 minutes. It doesn't happen when the car starts from cold or after it sits around for a while. This suggests that heat is a cause. After the noise comes on, it varies with speed (the higher the speed, the higher the pitch and speed of the sound). It does not matter if the brakes, clutch, or gas is applied so I don't think it's the transmission nor the brake pads. I've checked and cleaned the calipers and pads. The pads are OEM and have plenty of life left. The shims are on fine. The rotors are not warped and are smooth. I don't think the calipers are sticking because the noise does not come on all the time. I've checked the "play" of the front wheels by grabbing the wheels and wiggle them to see if there is any "play" but there is no movement. So that rules out the wheel bearings (also because squeal is not altered in turns).
I was going to replace the calipers and pads with Raybestos QS but want to check with the ORG before proceeding.
PLEASE HELP!

Thanks guys.

thanpto

 

I still think it's your wheel bearings.

Also check your tranmission fluid level.

 

If it's the fluid level, why would this cause the squeal?

 

You know, I have the same symptoms with my car. I've checked everything you have checked as well. I can't seem to figure out where the noise is exactly coming from.
If it was the bearings, wouldn't it happen all the time? It seems very random.

 

Just noticed the same thing on my car... I was traveling 120 Kms against a 50 Kms wind... never happened when I was driving with the the wind. This is the first I have heard this noise. It sounds like tire noises over pavement that has just been roughed up. I suspect it has something to do with the air intake. It's like blowing into an empty bottle.

 

I have an aftermarket JWT popcharger along with a mid-pipe for an intake set-up. There is a definate whistle from the intake, but it is a completely different sound than the noise that is being discussed in this thread. I had heard the noise once before (and posted about it) when I had a completely stock intake. The noise went away and I forgot about it. Then it came back weeks later, but I had put the new intake on my car by then.

 

It's certainly not the intake on mine. I put back the stock intake. At low speed (5-10mph) it's very noticeable. The sound is like plastic/rubber rubbing against metal. It's a rubbing and squeaking sound. I've read that it could be the seals(front and rear) on the wheel bearings that are dirty/dry and the seals turn with the bearings so that causes the rubbing noise. However, to get to the bearings you'd have to press it out of the knuckle. I'd like other opinions before I take that route.

 

I have a similar problem. I get a squeal from my drivers side brake. The OEM pads have plenty of life before the wear indicator but a lip on the back pad had formed from a slight overhang between the rotor and the pad. I chipped off the lip and cleaned the rotors with brake cleaner. The squeal went away for a few weeks but now it's back. I'm going to look at it this weekend to see if the lip is back and use a file this time.

 

I have a similar squeal in mine. It goes away at high speeds. At low speeds the sound is pretty loud, almost like metal scratching on metal. The sound is only like once everytime the tire rotates, not constant. I do have a tiny bit of play in the passengers side wheel, and the tire has started to wear out more on the outside. I'm guessing is the wheel bearing.

 

You should get that wheel bearing done before it causes more damage. I've read that people who left damaged bearings in too long will have major knuckle damage.

 

How should I check for "play" in the wheel, and therefore see if the bearing is OK or not?

 

I've noticed the same thing on my car over the past month. Took it to my local mechanic and he couldn't get it to do it. It seems to only start after driving for about 30 minutes. It's really noticable at low speeds and seems to be coming from my front passenger side. Definitely not brake squeel. Just an annoying squeek squeek squeek..

I didn't notice any play either when I did the wheel bearing test.

What would it cost to have the bearings replaced?

Let me know if anyone solves the mystery.

JP

 

Exact same as mine. Gets noisy after the car has been driven for a while, and is unaffected by braking.

 

Jack the wheel up off the ground.
Take one hand and grab the top, the other the bottom. Try to wiggle/push/pull on the wheel to see if it's loose, or have some "play".
Now grab the left and right sides and repeat.
If there is "play", you probably have bad wheel bearings. Also, when driving and turning, there might be more squeal/groan on one side than the other.

 

Thanks, I'll check it next time I'm home. Assuming everyone w/this problem has OK bearings in the wheels, does anyone have suggestions on what else to check for this noise problem?

 

The cheapest way is to take off the knuckle/hub assembly (Anyone know this procedure?). Buy the wheel bearings (rockauto.com has it cheap) and have a local machine shop press out the old bearings and press in the new bearings. The shop probably charges $20-40 per assembly.

 

My 1998 GXE had a similar problem a few years ago. The dealer greased the front bearing seal on the passenger side to fix it.

 

How do I grease the front bearing seal? Do I have to remove the knuckle/hub assembly to get to the seal? What type of grease?

 

I'd like to know how to grease the bearing seal myself. This procedure could be useful since it's happening on many Maxes.

 

It's ALMOST DEFINITELY YOUR BEARING(S). I had a high pitched squeal exactly like you're describing for almost a year. The Nissan dealer finally said that it must be the bearing, and when they really looked closely at it the bearing was gone. They replaced the front driver's side bearing and seal ($200) and I haven't heard a squeak since.
-Chad

 

Are there any other symptoms associated with a bad bearing, or one that needs grease?

 

THIS HAPPENS TO ME TOO! I hate it, the squeeking INTERVAL (if you will) increases strictly with car speed (As apposed to engine speed). I had my CV boots recently changed and it stopped for about a month and then the squeeking came back. I took it to my mechanic and I was able to get it to squeek, but this was after driving for fifteen minutes with my trusty mechanic in the vehicle. It sounded like it was coming from both sides, but more-so front DRIVER. On the other hand he did say something about wheel bearings but he wasn't sure. I'm taking it in tomorrow (Thursday) to have him take apart my front.

 

PLEASE let us know what you find out.

 

I have the same thing, but when i come to a stop it is at its loudest, it sounds like a laser gun or something, almost a whirring sound??? Sounds like rubber or plastic.

 

Hey,
I just replace my Idler Pulley... Very quiet now. She was squealing and making little clatter noises (kinda like my ex). The bearing in the pulley will definately be affected by heat.
...maybe...
good luck,
dave

 

I think I've found the problem. I removed the caliper and rotors on the suspect wheel (front passenger) and sprayed WD-40 behind where the rotor sits. This is where the outer grease seal sits.
Go to this site and click on Fig. 1
http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...61CH08_10.HTML
You will see the the knuckle/hub assembly and where the grease seals are located.

After driving for 20-30 minutes, I did not notice the squeal any longer. So I think it's the seal. I'd probably have go take the hub out and grease the outer seal. The WD-40 is probably temporary only.

Try this and see if this helps.

 

I've just encountered the same problem. Can't quite tell which wheel it's coming from though. So far I've changed the wheel hub on the passenger front and the lateral link on the rear. It's still happening.

The link has gone dead. Is there any update on a solution?

 

Had this issue along time... Replaced everything on the front end could never fix the noise, mechanic told me i needed strut bearings, didnt know how that related to the noise, but i changed the strut bearings and never heard the noise again. Dont know if this helps but that solved my issue

 

Was there a way you could tell that was the specific problem? I was thinking of something like pushing down on the car?

 

Have someone get in and turn the wheel back and forth all the way and put ur head as close as u can to the struts and just listen... Iwas told all the rubber from the boot got stuck in the top mount and the bearing was ****... If the bearing isnt working correctly when u turn the wheel im pretty sure the spring is being pulled on to turn when it doesnt want to not to sure, but the strut bearings fixed my problem completly

 

Or it could be dirt in ur bearing hub, it doesnt hurt to try to clean it out its a cheap easy thing that could fix ur issue, if u cut the wheel alll the way and get a can of wd40 or pb blaster (with the straw on the end) and stick the straw inbetween where the axle meets the hub in the little tiny opening and get some wd40 in there not to much u dont want to dry it out but it can clean out any dirt or **** that could have gotten in

 

What do you think about the rear struts? I'm thinking something crazy like someone sits on the trunk and drive a little. Or maybe just put something very heavy in there.

 

Are u talking about checking them? Its very easy to know if u need rear struts the back end bounces up and down very sloppily and if u have big enough wheels ul even bottom out the wheels on the fender..... U can even very easily take out the back strut assembly if u believe they may need replacing. When mine were bad there was a squishy rubbery sound over bumps and i have 18" wheels so i would hit the wheel well. When i undid the bottom bolt on the strut assembly it completly fell into two pieces. There are other components in the rear 4th gen suspension. Trailing arm bushings can go bad ul hear rubbery sounds when car is transferring weight and there is the lateral link which i believe is also the Scott Russell link? Not sure but when mine went bad it sounded like i had a trunk full of tools when i went over a bump. So dont just push up and down on the rear to check ur struts because there are more suspension components. If the rear shocks and struts are original and u have over 100k they should be on there way out

 

^^ and excessive tire wear! And struts can leak the grease thats inside them