I got my MEVI installed and thanks to the help of the guys here I was able to get it configured properly and it does work. I have the GM map/baro switch and I left the silver nipple open for vent, plugged in the vacuum canister to the hose that had the sponge on it, and plugged the VAIS actuator to the black nipple right next to it. I set the RPM switch to coil-per-plug (button 1) and I tried 1500RPM as well as 5000RPM (button 2). The LEDs flashed the proper setting back to me. When I revved the car in neutral in the driveway, the valves would open and shut exactly as they were supposed to both at the 1500RPM and 5000RPM setting.

Then I set it back to 5000RPM, revved it in neutral and the valves opened at 5000RPM and shut off after. Then I took the car on a test drive and didn't really feel much. I came back to the driveway and opened the hood and revved the car again and this time the valves stayed shut! I checked the settings on the RPM switch by pushing button 2 and it is set to the desired RPM (5000RPM in this case). But again when I revved it in neutral past 5000RPM the valves did not open. Then I set it back down to 1500RPM and it flashed 1500RPM¡K then I revved it past 1500RPM and the valves still didn't open. I shut the car down and started it back up and tried again and same result... valves didn't open.

Then I repeated the whole process about 30 min later and it did exactly the same thing - worked at first but then didn't work after (and probably during) the test drive. I checked all the hoses and they are all hooked up fine and my power and ground from the RPM switch go directly to the battery. The RPM signal is coming from coilpack 5 (bottom right hand corner).

Can someone please help me out here?

Thank you for reading.

 

Keven97SE, Mishmosh, DaveB… where are you guys?

 

you shure your harlan isnt faulty and flaking out? After it doesnt work, do you see the harlan flash at you everytime it doesnt work?

 

Whenever the MEVI doesn't work, the RPM switch LED stays off as well.

One thing that I DID notice this evening is that when I unplug the negative terminal of the battery for about 10 seconds and then plug it back in and program the RPM switch, it works fine for about 2 or 3 sweeps. Then it stops working again.

Do I have a defective RPM switch? I want to be positive before I ask for an exchange from Harlan. I also made sure that the 2 grounds are grounded to different places. So is it a bad ground or a defective switch or something else?

 

Maybe if you try re-crimping some wires it may help. Remember that ground wire from the Harlan w/ like only two threads coming out b/c you stripped it so much? Could that be the case maybe?

On a side note, after attempting an EGR gasket install and seeing we still couldn't get it in after without disassembling the MEVI, we (me and D) gave up. After leaving his house for a trip to NAPA, the car wouldn't even start after, and the starter wasn't even engaging! Luckily, on a last ditch effort, I cranked and gassed the car @ the same time, and she fired up! That was quite a scare...wonder if it was a one time thing.

 

Whenever your car wont start...Floor the gas then crank it. An wide open throttle will disengage the ECU from working, so if any sensors are disenableing the car to start, they wont come into effect

-matt

 

Ahh so that's the theory behind it...thx matty

 

Huh? The car is fine... the RPM switch however doesn't seem to be opening the valves all the time... totally different issue.

 

What did I do? I have no f@cking clue. But this is what I did before it did start working all the time:

1) Separated the two grounds
2) Set the RPM switch to 1500RPM and drove it around like that for the day, so the VI opens and shuts constantly

Now it works everytime... I did a test on the highway and DAMN!!! I am the kind of person who does not notice the effect of mods usually... but this is the most I have noticed out of any mod that I have ever done (on this car or any other car).

I want the ECU now!!! It feels the same at 6400RPM as it does all through the rest of the powerband... DAWM!

Thanks to Justin and JAY25 for all your help and especially to JAY25 for all your work and patience! Now I hope that the RPM switch and everything else don't flake out after a little while... I will be mounting an LED next to the dimming switch on my dash to keep an eye on the VI.

This is how I plan on wiring that... please correct me if I'm wrong:

- Positive (red) wire from LED goes to the 12v source (car battery)
- Ground (black) wire from LED goes to the white wire coming out of the Harlan RPM switch

Bingo... done?

 

 

I found that running a relay caused my Harlan to flake out A LOT. I stopped using the relay (MAP power wired to battery, Harlan switched ground to MAP negative). Rarely does my Harlan flake out anymore. Check out my homepage and you'll see that I have my Harlan located so that I can verify it's operation. If it flakes out, I have a toggle switch connected in line with MAP ground which means I have total control of engaging the MEVI at any time. I noticed that if the unit flakes out (led light flashes) and I flip the toggle switch 3-4 times, the Harlan resets and acts fine again.


Dave