BEFORE you run out and do the alarm beep mod...READ THIS
#1
BEFORE you run out and do the alarm beep mod...READ THIS
This is a bit long....
I was interested in the "Alarm Beep" mod, you know; the one that makes your car beep when you lock all the doors w/ remote and arm the alarm. Lights flash, alarm is armed—but I too wanted to hear when it was being armed, not just make sure to watch for the flash. There was a link posted that takes you to VQpower or something like that...I went to the only link I knew of for that mod, and it mentioned the need for a relay, showing the schematic and all...
Well, I did some testing and found out that the mod was cheaper than what that article said. I did find the article helpful, but there is no need to buy an extra relay. For those who already knew this, skip to the last few paragraphs. For all others, learn from my experience and save time and money.
I went out and purchased the relay and piezo buzzer that were pictured in the diagrams. I bought several buzzers to find what I liked best. I followed the instructions for locating the relay in the trunk. As I got to looking at what the article said about the need for another relay, I realized the mistake in the logic:
Relays are generally used when you want a smaller power source to drive a larger one. Well, in the case of this mod, the location and wiring of the additional relay is completely unnecessary. Why? Because the author of the article used the exact same wire for the relay coil as he did for the relay switch. What am I saying? That the extra relay does not add any benefit.
Using the same wiring for both energizing the coil AND providing a power source for the relay's switch is an unnecessary use of a relay.
If you test the orange wire, you see that it is not a constant ground. The ground is only completed when you press the "lock" button. This ground (or sink) comes from the BCM (don't worry, just take my word for it) and is only constant for the duration of the flash from your lights (signalling alarm activation).
In essence, by using the green/orange wire for power (connecting it to the red wire on your piezo buzzer), and the orange wire (connects to the black on your piezo buzzer) for ground, you need no relay. I just bare a little bit of each wire, wrap the extra wire that will go to the buzzer around it, solder, tape it up, then DONE. Effective placement of the buzzer is necessary for optimal sound. Inside the trunk, the piezo is quieted significantly by being sealed from the outside. The solution? Relocate the buzzer (preferrably to a protected spot outside of the vehicle). You will notice that in the trunk, there is a black wire that goes into a weather seal, just below the relay that has been described above. I just cut a small hole in that seal, ran the wire and buzzer to the underside of the bumper. I also added another buzzer (better ability to hear alarm arm) to the FRONT of the car by accessing the same-colored wires (green/o and o) that are in the wire bundle on the driver's side, beneath the kickplate. If details are needed, let me know. Anyway, just trying to save you some time and money.
I was interested in the "Alarm Beep" mod, you know; the one that makes your car beep when you lock all the doors w/ remote and arm the alarm. Lights flash, alarm is armed—but I too wanted to hear when it was being armed, not just make sure to watch for the flash. There was a link posted that takes you to VQpower or something like that...I went to the only link I knew of for that mod, and it mentioned the need for a relay, showing the schematic and all...
Well, I did some testing and found out that the mod was cheaper than what that article said. I did find the article helpful, but there is no need to buy an extra relay. For those who already knew this, skip to the last few paragraphs. For all others, learn from my experience and save time and money.
I went out and purchased the relay and piezo buzzer that were pictured in the diagrams. I bought several buzzers to find what I liked best. I followed the instructions for locating the relay in the trunk. As I got to looking at what the article said about the need for another relay, I realized the mistake in the logic:
Relays are generally used when you want a smaller power source to drive a larger one. Well, in the case of this mod, the location and wiring of the additional relay is completely unnecessary. Why? Because the author of the article used the exact same wire for the relay coil as he did for the relay switch. What am I saying? That the extra relay does not add any benefit.
Using the same wiring for both energizing the coil AND providing a power source for the relay's switch is an unnecessary use of a relay.
If you test the orange wire, you see that it is not a constant ground. The ground is only completed when you press the "lock" button. This ground (or sink) comes from the BCM (don't worry, just take my word for it) and is only constant for the duration of the flash from your lights (signalling alarm activation).
In essence, by using the green/orange wire for power (connecting it to the red wire on your piezo buzzer), and the orange wire (connects to the black on your piezo buzzer) for ground, you need no relay. I just bare a little bit of each wire, wrap the extra wire that will go to the buzzer around it, solder, tape it up, then DONE. Effective placement of the buzzer is necessary for optimal sound. Inside the trunk, the piezo is quieted significantly by being sealed from the outside. The solution? Relocate the buzzer (preferrably to a protected spot outside of the vehicle). You will notice that in the trunk, there is a black wire that goes into a weather seal, just below the relay that has been described above. I just cut a small hole in that seal, ran the wire and buzzer to the underside of the bumper. I also added another buzzer (better ability to hear alarm arm) to the FRONT of the car by accessing the same-colored wires (green/o and o) that are in the wire bundle on the driver's side, beneath the kickplate. If details are needed, let me know. Anyway, just trying to save you some time and money.
#5
NICE!...way to go..I was planning to do this in the next couple of weeks...got all the stuff already just BS-ing...lol..but now an interesting question arises, are anyh of the afore mentioned wires 'hot' when disarming the alarm? Is there a wire that is apart from the dome light one. I'm thinking that can be tapped and used to signify the opening/unarming of the alarm...thoughts?
#7
Here is the original link to supplement my discussion above:
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=39
I am not sure where there is a "hot wire" or the like to tap into when disarming the alarm. I think there has to be one because somehow the unit must know not to activate. I will check some wiring ideas and get back to it.
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=39
I am not sure where there is a "hot wire" or the like to tap into when disarming the alarm. I think there has to be one because somehow the unit must know not to activate. I will check some wiring ideas and get back to it.
#9
I tried this once and now my lights dont blink anymore. I had to unplug the original relay because if i dont my hazards stay illuminated. I must have burned something somewhere. I tested all the wires and the wire that is supposed to be swithed is now constant. Now i'm clueless.
#10
Sounds like your relay is fried. If you reverse the power and make it go into the relay backwards, this might occur.
Which wire did you test (supposed to be switched) that is now constant? You may have shorted the BCM fuse in the engine compartment (driver's side, box next to battery, labeled "BCM," 7.5 AMP I believe). Check the fuse, and do a continuity test on the relay wires going in and coming out of the relay in the trunk.
Which wire did you test (supposed to be switched) that is now constant? You may have shorted the BCM fuse in the engine compartment (driver's side, box next to battery, labeled "BCM," 7.5 AMP I believe). Check the fuse, and do a continuity test on the relay wires going in and coming out of the relay in the trunk.
#11
Alarm Beep for Disarm too...
Someone asked if you could do something to make the system beep when you are disarming as well. I found that inside the door panels, there is a green/black wire that is the "unlock" sensor wire. I would personally experiment with the driver's door, since it unlocks first. There is also a brown wire that has something to do with the unlock sensor (can't remember right off). Anyway, I would test for which wire gets a +12 (not continually hot) when you disarm the system.
Perhaps (but not recommended) you could even tap into the door unlock wire, since this wire is only powered when you lock/unlock the door. If you do this, however, it may be safe to say that connecting a buzzer to the unlock/lock wire will cause a beep before the factory lights flash, every time you lock or unlock the door—regardless of whether you are arming the alarm. That could get a bit annoying...
Perhaps (but not recommended) you could even tap into the door unlock wire, since this wire is only powered when you lock/unlock the door. If you do this, however, it may be safe to say that connecting a buzzer to the unlock/lock wire will cause a beep before the factory lights flash, every time you lock or unlock the door—regardless of whether you are arming the alarm. That could get a bit annoying...
#12
Originally posted by cam_honestiam
Sounds like your relay is fried. If you reverse the power and make it go into the relay backwards, this might occur.
Which wire did you test (supposed to be switched) that is now constant? You may have shorted the BCM fuse in the engine compartment (driver's side, box next to battery, labeled "BCM," 7.5 AMP I believe). Check the fuse, and do a continuity test on the relay wires going in and coming out of the relay in the trunk.
Sounds like your relay is fried. If you reverse the power and make it go into the relay backwards, this might occur.
Which wire did you test (supposed to be switched) that is now constant? You may have shorted the BCM fuse in the engine compartment (driver's side, box next to battery, labeled "BCM," 7.5 AMP I believe). Check the fuse, and do a continuity test on the relay wires going in and coming out of the relay in the trunk.
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