Things done:

Unbolted old tranny and axles

Unbolted brake pedal

Unbolted shift linkage


Things to do:

Drill and install clutch pedal, install brake pedal

Install new clutch, fly and tranny

Reinstall axles etc

Install shift linkage





Questions I have:


The old brake pedal was a PITA to remove, there was NO space to use, i used a 2 1/2 foot extension and swivel joint to pull it off. Is there any easier way to work there?

In Hal's instructions he says to remove a brackets, of which two bolts are behind the speedo; We undid the speedo, can't find the rest of the bracket from underneath to work with?!?


Any other tips/advice will be appreciated


Edit: The tranny i bought had low miles, and was cracked open to check internals; everything shows regular wear and tear, diff bearings are fine, and axle seals are fine; Gears are in great condition. Before they checked it out i could shift gears easily by pulling the fork in and out. They cleaned it out and no fluid was left inside, and now i can't shift it at all; Anyone know if no fluid would not let me shift at all or just make it harder?... I'm just worried the tranny may not be a-ok.

 

My tranny wouldnt go into reverse until the car was done and sat on the ground and pushed it back and forth. I know there is little room under there for the brake and clutch pedal. Wait till you got to do clutch adjustment. What a pain... Good Luck!!

 

Whats going to be the total cost when your done with your project?

 

Yes that pedal was a bish to take out and replace Ill agree on that.
that bracket located is on the left side of the speedo area and is bolted to the top of the auto brake pedal. just remove it and leave it out. theres also a ground wire bolted there I believe so make shure you bolt that wire back to the firewall.

not shure about shifting that since I am still able to shift mine with no fluid at all.

 

Thanks nismo, anyone else?

 

Shifting into 1,2,3&4 should be easy even with no fluid. Shifting into 5, and especially R is more difficult on the bench, but still doable.

Try turning this input shaft a couple of times, or turning at back/forth as you shift.

 

well the input shaft turns fine, no probs; at the shop, he turned and pulle it in and out while the flui was draining, so it's possible that it's in R/5th ... i tried shifting after turning the input shaft, no luck tho

 

sooo... today was a good day

All that's left to do is to finish the shift linkage, axles, and finish the center console area and ecu. Victory is so close i can smell it

 

Bleeding the lines can be tricky..

 

So, did you ever get it out of gear, or in gear lol?????

 

This tip may be too late for you, but I never removed the auto brake pedal. I just got a hacksaw and shortened the plate on the end of the pedal using the rubber brake pedal cover from a manual pedal as a template - much, much easier than working up under the dash and removing the auto brake pedal and installing the manual brake pedal.

When you are installing the clutch pedal and master cylinder, be sure to use some washers to create a spacer about .65" thick between the firewall and the clutch pedal bracket. On manual cars this spacer is welded to the firewall. If you don't have a spacer you may have adjustment problems.

Changing gears with the tranny out of the car can be difficult, especially since you don't have the mechanical advantage of the gear linkage. Try using a large drift or screwdriver in the shifting yoke to move the yoke clockwise and ccw. I tapped on the end of the yoke with a hammer to make sure it would go into reverse after I rebuilt mine. The first time I tried, it wouldn't budge, so I took the tranny back apart and found I had made a mistake when reassembling, so it really is a good idea to work it through every gear.

 

OR you can just mess with the adjustment for 2 months like I did