Y pipe removal
07-02-2003, 09:24 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 187
Y pipe removal
What's the easiest way to remove the nuts from the manifold studs - heat, impact wrench, bring it to garage?
Thinking about replacing my own, but in central NY bolts and nuts tend to rust pretty badly. I did have this replaced once before, so maybe they aren't rusted too bad.
Any suggestions welcome.
Thanks,
Tim
Thinking about replacing my own, but in central NY bolts and nuts tend to rust pretty badly. I did have this replaced once before, so maybe they aren't rusted too bad.
Any suggestions welcome.
Thanks,
Tim
07-03-2003, 08:02 AM
#5
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 80
It's a pain in azz to take the factory y pipe off on the second exhaust outlet. It's hard to explain but here goes...
1. Spray tons of liquid wrench, pb blaster or WD40.
2. Get out from under the car while it settles and use a fan to get the fumes out or you'll behave like me.
2. Put your socket set together in this order: socket - 3 in extension - 90 degree swivel - 3 inch extension - 90 degree swivel - 3 inch extension - socket wrench. You'll have a tool that can reach around the y pipe, the only problem is with all of those swivels on there, it's really flimsy.
3. Make the shape you need to get it around the y pipe then masking tape it tight so that it's rigid enough to stand up vertically and you be able to snake it up to those hard to reach bolts with ease.
4. Use a breaker bar if it doesn't move...
1. Spray tons of liquid wrench, pb blaster or WD40.
2. Get out from under the car while it settles and use a fan to get the fumes out or you'll behave like me.
2. Put your socket set together in this order: socket - 3 in extension - 90 degree swivel - 3 inch extension - 90 degree swivel - 3 inch extension - socket wrench. You'll have a tool that can reach around the y pipe, the only problem is with all of those swivels on there, it's really flimsy.
3. Make the shape you need to get it around the y pipe then masking tape it tight so that it's rigid enough to stand up vertically and you be able to snake it up to those hard to reach bolts with ease.
4. Use a breaker bar if it doesn't move...
07-03-2003, 08:26 AM
#6
U wanna try me young boy?
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 1,024
I used PB blaster (sprayed it on the day before, then 1h before, then 20m before doing the work.
The 3 front manifold bolts are easy to get to. Deep 14mm socket and 8" extension. I used my 450FtLb Air Impact Wrench, but a long breaker bar will work just as well as long as you keep the extension in line with the nut.
Two of the 3 rear manifold nuts (on the passenger side of the Y) are easy to get to also, same technique. The last one is a DOOOOOOZY to get to, because you gotta reach between the engine subframe and Y, avoiding the manifold heatsheild. If you have a good collection of short extensions and two universal joints then you'll get it, but that's easily the hardest bolt to remove.
As for the cat - I disconnected the exhaust AFTER the cat - Unscrew the O2 (just use a wrench, it's easy) and remove the two 14mm bolts that go in from the back. Remember to coil up the O2 wiresin such a way that when you install the O2 again they'll wind up straight - easiest way to judge is when you remove the O2 the wires will wind up - just tuck the O2 under the heatshield and keep the wires wound up so when you resinstall they comne out straight. The bolts are MUCH easier to remove than between the Y and the cat. If you are replacing the Y then it's MUCH easier to take the cat out with the Y and subsequently seperate them on the ground. The bolts between the Y and the cat are 13mm on my car - I rounded them off using a 14mm (whooops!) but was still able to get them with a 13mm. they were rusted SOLID also, and one of them is a PITA to get a socket on because of the curve of the Y at the flex.
Finally, I cut the little zip-ties that held the front two O2 sensor harnesses in the engine bay and unplugged the connectors, and unclipped them from the base (the O2 side of the connector is clipped onto a metal tab in the engine bay but it just pulls off easily) I then took the O2's/harnesses out with the Y. That way I could swap the o2's to my new Y much more easily. Just re-zip them back into place when you put it all back together.
If you're gonna remove O2s with the Y still in the car then REMOVE THEM FIRST! Once the Y is dangling from the two rubber hangers the Y is too loose to have you remove them. Either remove them before you remove any manifold/cat bolts, or take them out with the Y and remove them on the ground.
The 3 front manifold bolts are easy to get to. Deep 14mm socket and 8" extension. I used my 450FtLb Air Impact Wrench, but a long breaker bar will work just as well as long as you keep the extension in line with the nut.
Two of the 3 rear manifold nuts (on the passenger side of the Y) are easy to get to also, same technique. The last one is a DOOOOOOZY to get to, because you gotta reach between the engine subframe and Y, avoiding the manifold heatsheild. If you have a good collection of short extensions and two universal joints then you'll get it, but that's easily the hardest bolt to remove.
As for the cat - I disconnected the exhaust AFTER the cat - Unscrew the O2 (just use a wrench, it's easy) and remove the two 14mm bolts that go in from the back. Remember to coil up the O2 wiresin such a way that when you install the O2 again they'll wind up straight - easiest way to judge is when you remove the O2 the wires will wind up - just tuck the O2 under the heatshield and keep the wires wound up so when you resinstall they comne out straight. The bolts are MUCH easier to remove than between the Y and the cat. If you are replacing the Y then it's MUCH easier to take the cat out with the Y and subsequently seperate them on the ground. The bolts between the Y and the cat are 13mm on my car - I rounded them off using a 14mm (whooops!) but was still able to get them with a 13mm. they were rusted SOLID also, and one of them is a PITA to get a socket on because of the curve of the Y at the flex.
Finally, I cut the little zip-ties that held the front two O2 sensor harnesses in the engine bay and unplugged the connectors, and unclipped them from the base (the O2 side of the connector is clipped onto a metal tab in the engine bay but it just pulls off easily) I then took the O2's/harnesses out with the Y. That way I could swap the o2's to my new Y much more easily. Just re-zip them back into place when you put it all back together.
If you're gonna remove O2s with the Y still in the car then REMOVE THEM FIRST! Once the Y is dangling from the two rubber hangers the Y is too loose to have you remove them. Either remove them before you remove any manifold/cat bolts, or take them out with the Y and remove them on the ground.
07-03-2003, 08:29 AM
#7
U wanna try me young boy?
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 1,024
Important: <b>DO NOT</b> try to break these nuts/bolts loose with a ratchet - you <b>will</b> crack teeth off the ratchet mechanism. Get a 1/2" drive breaker bar ($10) and a 1/2"F to 3/8"M converter ($5) to crack them loose THEN use the ratchet.
07-05-2003, 12:37 PM
#11
Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 43
Y Pipe removal
Well, I just got my Budget Y pipe installed today. Let me provide a little feedback while it is fresh on my mind.
To begin with, I was going to do it all myself. I have a lot of tools and 44 years of shadetree mechanic skills. The first problem that I ran into was being able to get my car up in the air high enough to work on it easily. I'm a pretty big boy, and getting enough room to work on the CAT bolts and get any sort of real pressure on them was hard. Like other had suggested, I had sprayed all of the bolts and let them soak overnight. I did this step about three times while waiting for my ppipe to come in.
When I went under the car for the forth time, I tried loosening the bolts. All 6 of the manifold bolts came loose pretty easy...better than I had expected. I tightened them back up and sprayed them again (I still didn't have the Budget pipe yet).
So now the pipe is in and it's time to do the dead. I then tried the CAT bolts...this is where I couldn't really get enough room to get at them with any serious pressure on the breaker bar. I'm running H&R Sport springs with a Stillen body kit so it sits pretty low to begin with. So I crawled out and got it lifted a little higher. Got back under...still couldn't get any sort of pressure on it.
Went to WalMArt and picked up a 1/2" impact wrench. Came back and was able to air wrench the upper CAT bolt off. Kept hammering at the lower one...and it rounded the nut head...darn!
So anyway, I take it to a local Mom and Pop muffler shop. Tell the guy I just need the CAT bolt taken off. He says no problem..bring it in tomorrow and I'll heat it up with a torch and take it off. So now I'm thinking, "What the heck, since I know all the other bolts should come off fine, why not ask him to change it out completely while it is on the rack." So I ask him about changing it out...he seemed to be sorta relunctant. I told him that I had already broken all the other bolts free...but I think he sorta doubted my word.
Oh well, I took it in today. He heated up the lower CAT bolt red hot and then hammered a 13mm socket onto it. With a little bit of pressure it came right off. But this is where the story goes bad.
The first bad sign is that the guy diodn't have a universal joint for his socket set. I volunteered to run back hone and get mine (my son had followed me over with his car and it was only about 4 blocks away.) No he says, he believes he can get it off without it since I have already broken them loose before. OK, I say (hey he does this all the time right?) Next bad sign, the guy seems to be in some sort of big hurry to get the car done. The old pipe comes down fine...I mean without a single problem.
Now, I don't know about you, but common sense tells me to chase the threads on the old studs with one of the nuts a few times...to make sure the nuts will start and run up tight without any problems. Common sense also makes me want to apply a little bit of oil to the studs so as to make the nuts start on straight and easy. This guys does neither of these. To make a long story short, he buggers up the threads of the PITA stud on the second downtube of the exhaust. It took him close to an hour to recover from the problem...and I believe he actually ended up putting on a different size nut.
I watched closely and everything ended up working out fine..it doesn't seem to leak at all. I can only barely tell any differnece in the exhaust tone. As far as performance goes...I haven't really driven it enough to really say how much it's noticeable. However, when we were facing the BAD BOLT problem, all I could think of was "The car was running fine and now I'll have a major exhaust problem to fix...and for what 15HP?"
So the end of my story goes like this. I'm not so sure if this is a DIY task for the average Joe. It's not a real bad job, but the CAT bolts are a real pain. My personal recommendation would be to take it to a reputable exhaust shop that does complete exhaust systems...not just pipe bending. I remember taking my 3rd gen Maxima to Midas for a cat back stock exhaust and the guy actually ran a die back and forth on the CAT studs after he got the nuts off so as to chase and smooth out the stud threads. He did a professional job and had all the tools. I'd say that if you don't have plenty of clearance, lots of tools, good mechanical skills.....or a reputable exhaust shop to do it for you......don't tinker with this. This isn't to say DON'T do it....just keep these factors in mind and don't kid yourself. It's not that bad of job if you have ALL of these things at hand...but not having a single one of the needed items could result in a major headache for you.
Long stroy I know...hope the insight into my experience helps someone else.
Oh yeah, the Budget Y Pipe fit perfectly. It came complete with all needed gaskets. The exhaust guy commented that I was lucky to be able to find a Y pipe without all of the precats on it...I told him I ordered it from Canada.
FWIW, I love this forum. All the tips that Iyou guys have provided went a long way in making this task much easier. I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope that I don't experience any exhaust leaks.
I'm supposed to get my Wings West spoiler installed next week....I'll post some Pics when that is done...I see it as being my last mod to this 95 Maxima.
To begin with, I was going to do it all myself. I have a lot of tools and 44 years of shadetree mechanic skills. The first problem that I ran into was being able to get my car up in the air high enough to work on it easily. I'm a pretty big boy, and getting enough room to work on the CAT bolts and get any sort of real pressure on them was hard. Like other had suggested, I had sprayed all of the bolts and let them soak overnight. I did this step about three times while waiting for my ppipe to come in.
When I went under the car for the forth time, I tried loosening the bolts. All 6 of the manifold bolts came loose pretty easy...better than I had expected. I tightened them back up and sprayed them again (I still didn't have the Budget pipe yet).
So now the pipe is in and it's time to do the dead. I then tried the CAT bolts...this is where I couldn't really get enough room to get at them with any serious pressure on the breaker bar. I'm running H&R Sport springs with a Stillen body kit so it sits pretty low to begin with. So I crawled out and got it lifted a little higher. Got back under...still couldn't get any sort of pressure on it.
Went to WalMArt and picked up a 1/2" impact wrench. Came back and was able to air wrench the upper CAT bolt off. Kept hammering at the lower one...and it rounded the nut head...darn!
So anyway, I take it to a local Mom and Pop muffler shop. Tell the guy I just need the CAT bolt taken off. He says no problem..bring it in tomorrow and I'll heat it up with a torch and take it off. So now I'm thinking, "What the heck, since I know all the other bolts should come off fine, why not ask him to change it out completely while it is on the rack." So I ask him about changing it out...he seemed to be sorta relunctant. I told him that I had already broken all the other bolts free...but I think he sorta doubted my word.
Oh well, I took it in today. He heated up the lower CAT bolt red hot and then hammered a 13mm socket onto it. With a little bit of pressure it came right off. But this is where the story goes bad.
The first bad sign is that the guy diodn't have a universal joint for his socket set. I volunteered to run back hone and get mine (my son had followed me over with his car and it was only about 4 blocks away.) No he says, he believes he can get it off without it since I have already broken them loose before. OK, I say (hey he does this all the time right?) Next bad sign, the guy seems to be in some sort of big hurry to get the car done. The old pipe comes down fine...I mean without a single problem.
Now, I don't know about you, but common sense tells me to chase the threads on the old studs with one of the nuts a few times...to make sure the nuts will start and run up tight without any problems. Common sense also makes me want to apply a little bit of oil to the studs so as to make the nuts start on straight and easy. This guys does neither of these. To make a long story short, he buggers up the threads of the PITA stud on the second downtube of the exhaust. It took him close to an hour to recover from the problem...and I believe he actually ended up putting on a different size nut.
I watched closely and everything ended up working out fine..it doesn't seem to leak at all. I can only barely tell any differnece in the exhaust tone. As far as performance goes...I haven't really driven it enough to really say how much it's noticeable. However, when we were facing the BAD BOLT problem, all I could think of was "The car was running fine and now I'll have a major exhaust problem to fix...and for what 15HP?"
So the end of my story goes like this. I'm not so sure if this is a DIY task for the average Joe. It's not a real bad job, but the CAT bolts are a real pain. My personal recommendation would be to take it to a reputable exhaust shop that does complete exhaust systems...not just pipe bending. I remember taking my 3rd gen Maxima to Midas for a cat back stock exhaust and the guy actually ran a die back and forth on the CAT studs after he got the nuts off so as to chase and smooth out the stud threads. He did a professional job and had all the tools. I'd say that if you don't have plenty of clearance, lots of tools, good mechanical skills.....or a reputable exhaust shop to do it for you......don't tinker with this. This isn't to say DON'T do it....just keep these factors in mind and don't kid yourself. It's not that bad of job if you have ALL of these things at hand...but not having a single one of the needed items could result in a major headache for you.
Long stroy I know...hope the insight into my experience helps someone else.
Oh yeah, the Budget Y Pipe fit perfectly. It came complete with all needed gaskets. The exhaust guy commented that I was lucky to be able to find a Y pipe without all of the precats on it...I told him I ordered it from Canada.
FWIW, I love this forum. All the tips that Iyou guys have provided went a long way in making this task much easier. I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope that I don't experience any exhaust leaks.
I'm supposed to get my Wings West spoiler installed next week....I'll post some Pics when that is done...I see it as being my last mod to this 95 Maxima.
07-05-2003, 08:07 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,272
You took off the cat bolts with ease with 3/8 drive.
What is SK 3/8 drive?
What is SK 3/8 drive?
Originally posted by z32drifter
lol ....dude invest in quality tools....I've taken crazy tight **** off with my sk 3/8 drive and no problems..and it's even the long version 1/2" drive size
lol ....dude invest in quality tools....I've taken crazy tight **** off with my sk 3/8 drive and no problems..and it's even the long version 1/2" drive size
07-06-2003, 06:59 AM
#15
Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 43
SK is a brand of hand tools. 3/8 drive is the form factor for the tool...meaning that all 3/8 drive sockets, ratchets, extensions, etc have a 3/8" square attaching end. While I was able to get all of the mainifold bolts loose with a 3/8 ratchet...it was a different story on the cat bolts....there I still used the 3/8" drive 14mm socket, but I put it on a 1/2" impact wrench. That took off one of the cat bolts...but the other wouldn't come off. However, when I took it to the muffler shop, they heated the stuck cat bolt up with a cutting torch till it was red hot. Then they used a 3/8" drive socket and a small ratchet and it backed right off. This didn't suprise me though, heating them up that hot make a WORLD of difference...especially on exhaust bolts!
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