Please Help !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Low End Power Is Very Weak
07-10-2003, 10:02 PM
#1
Please Help !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Low End Power Is Very Weak
I own a 1995 Nissan Maxima and I have the following upgrades:
JWT Intake with Mid - pipe
Apexi WS Catback Exhaust System
Definitive UDP
G Force ECU
The problem I seem to be having is that my low end power just doesn't seem to be there. I mean I just got the pulley and the UDP but even before that my car was more sluggish on the low end then the average maxima. My friend has the same exact mods as me minus the pulley and his car pulls so hard on the low end. I was wondering if anyone can suggest anything I should do to try and get some low end power to my car besides mods. Maybe a clean the throttle body or a tune up. If anybody has experienced this please give me some advice. Thanks.
JWT Intake with Mid - pipe
Apexi WS Catback Exhaust System
Definitive UDP
G Force ECU
The problem I seem to be having is that my low end power just doesn't seem to be there. I mean I just got the pulley and the UDP but even before that my car was more sluggish on the low end then the average maxima. My friend has the same exact mods as me minus the pulley and his car pulls so hard on the low end. I was wondering if anyone can suggest anything I should do to try and get some low end power to my car besides mods. Maybe a clean the throttle body or a tune up. If anybody has experienced this please give me some advice. Thanks.
07-10-2003, 10:10 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,197
Re: Please Help !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Low End Power Is Very Weak
change your knock sensor. This will be the best mod you ever do to your max. I went from a 15.8 to a 15.0 just by changing it. Run codes and check that out. also you should get a ypipe. It's the best thing you can do for power on you max. You'll notice huge improvement not only in bottom end. Until then, get a tune up and change fuel filter,pcv etc...
-Paul
-Paul
07-10-2003, 10:24 PM
#3
Ok. But I mean without a y - pipe my friend is still pulling hard. I just don't understand. I'm at the point where I just think its the engine and that its wearing down. My low end is just terrible. But do you think it could be the knock sensor? And your telling me to run codes but wouldn't the engine light have to be on to run codes? Thanks for all the help.
07-10-2003, 10:35 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: IOWA
Posts: 317
Those of you who have changed your knock-sensors:
Did you buy an aftermarket one or just a nissan OEM one?
How hard is it to install yourself? How much is it to install if its not easy to install? How much is the part? If its aftermarket, where can I find one?
Did you buy an aftermarket one or just a nissan OEM one?
How hard is it to install yourself? How much is it to install if its not easy to install? How much is the part? If its aftermarket, where can I find one?
07-10-2003, 10:49 PM
#6
Well I can't take that for an answer because for some reason my friends low end in his car is a lot more responsive then mine. I'm thinking I might need a throttle body cleaning or a tune up. But I know something can be done because hes an automatic so theres no reason mine can't be a little more responsive then it is. More advice please.
07-10-2003, 11:07 PM
#8
I was thinking it may be that too. But I don't have a clue where my stock air box is. I was thinking it may be that intake. I might try my friends Apexi on my car. Thanks for the advice. Please keep all the help coming guys. Thanks.
07-10-2003, 11:14 PM
#10
I just got back from a freeway and street drive after replacing my mid-pipe with the stock resonator (I think that what its called), not the air box though. I have a K&N cone filter. Anyways, I have a 95 GLE with a Budget Y-pipe and without the mid-pipe I noticed my car pulled significantly harder in the first 3 gears. Keep in mind I have 18's. I cant say I really miss the growl. I'd rather have the pull and quietly creep by, unless I have the L7's playing.
07-10-2003, 11:23 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,391
Originally posted by mforrest100
I was thinking it may be that too. But I don't have a clue where my stock air box is. I was thinking it may be that intake. I might try my friends Apexi on my car. Thanks for the advice. Please keep all the help coming guys. Thanks.
I was thinking it may be that too. But I don't have a clue where my stock air box is. I was thinking it may be that intake. I might try my friends Apexi on my car. Thanks for the advice. Please keep all the help coming guys. Thanks.
Both of those kill the low end big time.
07-10-2003, 11:25 PM
#12
MaximaPower
I bought the JWT used from someone but they said they had just cleaned it so there was no reason to clean it before I installed it. This was back in Nov. 2002. I was thinking about going with a PR CAI to gain some more low end power but I heard you lose top end power with this intake.
NEW2DAGAME
So your saying that my mid pipe may be the problem. I'm not sure but you may be right. Anything is possible. But my friend has the same setup. I just can't understand why his car pulls so much harder than mine in the low end. The difference makes it seem like hes a 5 speed compared to what I'm doing.
To be exact the people who have been in my car say that my car doesn't start pulling hard until it gets into third gear. And with these new ECU's we have he drove his car and my car and he says that when hes in his car the power is there once he puts his foot on the gas, but in mine it doesn't really kick in until about mid range. Anyone else have suggestions. Thanks.
I bought the JWT used from someone but they said they had just cleaned it so there was no reason to clean it before I installed it. This was back in Nov. 2002. I was thinking about going with a PR CAI to gain some more low end power but I heard you lose top end power with this intake.
NEW2DAGAME
So your saying that my mid pipe may be the problem. I'm not sure but you may be right. Anything is possible. But my friend has the same setup. I just can't understand why his car pulls so much harder than mine in the low end. The difference makes it seem like hes a 5 speed compared to what I'm doing.
To be exact the people who have been in my car say that my car doesn't start pulling hard until it gets into third gear. And with these new ECU's we have he drove his car and my car and he says that when hes in his car the power is there once he puts his foot on the gas, but in mine it doesn't really kick in until about mid range. Anyone else have suggestions. Thanks.
07-10-2003, 11:30 PM
#13
Originally posted by drewm
You forgot to mention your other mods. The 2k SE 17" rims weight a LOT. Large heavy rims are very very good at killing acceleration. Many people who put big heavy rims on noticed that their car is now a lot slower. Have your stock rims to try out? Also from your pictures, it seems you might have a system.
Both of those kill the low end big time.
You forgot to mention your other mods. The 2k SE 17" rims weight a LOT. Large heavy rims are very very good at killing acceleration. Many people who put big heavy rims on noticed that their car is now a lot slower. Have your stock rims to try out? Also from your pictures, it seems you might have a system.
Both of those kill the low end big time.
<-- me
07-11-2003, 07:33 AM
#16
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Originally posted by s0ber
someone explain to the noob what a PCV is??
someone explain to the noob what a PCV is??
The PCV valve controls this, it's located on the front valve cover.
07-11-2003, 09:32 AM
#17
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
How many miles are on your car and when was the last major service done?
Plugs, Fuel Filter, PCV and a TB clean
How many miles are on your car and when was the last major service done?
Plugs, Fuel Filter, PCV and a TB clean
07-11-2003, 11:29 AM
#18
All of the above is good for keeping the car running in tip top condition but none of the above is going to cause the car to be as slow as you are describing unless you are missing a couple plugs or something 
The knock sensor on the other hand can rob you on the order of 30-40 hp, negating all your mods and making your car slower than a stock one. I'd check your codes and check it out. Also cleaning/replacing of the above mentioned items will help your car run better but it won't make it drastically faster unless there's something wrong with one of them.
The knock sensor on the other hand can rob you on the order of 30-40 hp, negating all your mods and making your car slower than a stock one. I'd check your codes and check it out. Also cleaning/replacing of the above mentioned items will help your car run better but it won't make it drastically faster unless there's something wrong with one of them.
07-11-2003, 02:00 PM
#19
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 791
i asked this before, but maybe someone has a defferent opinion.....
if the ecu ligh is not on and there are no fault codes (related to knock sensor), can it still help with power by replacing the knock sensor anyway?
if the ecu ligh is not on and there are no fault codes (related to knock sensor), can it still help with power by replacing the knock sensor anyway?
07-11-2003, 11:04 PM
#21
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 577
Things that can affect your low end:
1. Clogged or defective EGR valve and lines (you should get an EGR code if this was an issue)
2. Dirty throttle body ($85 cleaning service at the dealer... they remove all of the intake upstream of the throttle and spray an ultraconcentrated cleaner into the manifold with the engine running and MAF disconnected. It is supposedly stuff that is more powerful than what you can buy in the auto stores).
3. Clogged fuel injectors ($110 at the dealer to remove them from the engine for cleaning).
4. Bad knock sensor ($150 installed with labor at the dealer)
5. Bad Mass Air Flow sensor (oils from the K&N foul the MAF heater element. Do It Yourself replacement. Around $370 wholesale price)
6. Clogged fuel filter.
7. Ill advised intake modifications.
8. Avoid any gasoline with MTBE. MTBE continously causes the build up of carbon in the engine.
1. Clogged or defective EGR valve and lines (you should get an EGR code if this was an issue)
2. Dirty throttle body ($85 cleaning service at the dealer... they remove all of the intake upstream of the throttle and spray an ultraconcentrated cleaner into the manifold with the engine running and MAF disconnected. It is supposedly stuff that is more powerful than what you can buy in the auto stores).
3. Clogged fuel injectors ($110 at the dealer to remove them from the engine for cleaning).
4. Bad knock sensor ($150 installed with labor at the dealer)
5. Bad Mass Air Flow sensor (oils from the K&N foul the MAF heater element. Do It Yourself replacement. Around $370 wholesale price)
6. Clogged fuel filter.
7. Ill advised intake modifications.
8. Avoid any gasoline with MTBE. MTBE continously causes the build up of carbon in the engine.
07-12-2003, 12:09 AM
#22
Originally posted by chris j vurnis
Things that can affect your low end:
1. Clogged or defective EGR valve and lines (you should get an EGR code if this was an issue)
2. Dirty throttle body ($85 cleaning service at the dealer... they remove all of the intake upstream of the throttle and spray an ultraconcentrated cleaner into the manifold with the engine running and MAF disconnected. It is supposedly stuff that is more powerful than what you can buy in the auto stores).
3. Clogged fuel injectors ($110 at the dealer to remove them from the engine for cleaning).
4. Bad knock sensor ($150 installed with labor at the dealer)
5. Bad Mass Air Flow sensor (oils from the K&N foul the MAF heater element. Do It Yourself replacement. Around $370 wholesale price)
6. Clogged fuel filter.
7. Ill advised intake modifications.
8. Avoid any gasoline with MTBE. MTBE continously causes the build up of carbon in the engine.
Things that can affect your low end:
1. Clogged or defective EGR valve and lines (you should get an EGR code if this was an issue)
2. Dirty throttle body ($85 cleaning service at the dealer... they remove all of the intake upstream of the throttle and spray an ultraconcentrated cleaner into the manifold with the engine running and MAF disconnected. It is supposedly stuff that is more powerful than what you can buy in the auto stores).
3. Clogged fuel injectors ($110 at the dealer to remove them from the engine for cleaning).
4. Bad knock sensor ($150 installed with labor at the dealer)
5. Bad Mass Air Flow sensor (oils from the K&N foul the MAF heater element. Do It Yourself replacement. Around $370 wholesale price)
6. Clogged fuel filter.
7. Ill advised intake modifications.
8. Avoid any gasoline with MTBE. MTBE continously causes the build up of carbon in the engine.
07-12-2003, 12:31 AM
#23
I've been using Chevron with Techron. Avoid cheap gas, including those AM/PM ones. Bigger wheels do rob power. That's why I like the saw blades on mine but I might go 17" but would have to be a very light wheel, could be more expensive though. Remember too that bigger wheels affect gearing, your engine would have to work a little harder to turn those massive wheels. I was going to get me a set of 17" Nissan wheels off of a 00-03 Maxima but since I heard that they're way heavy, I'm not going to anymore. If going smaller wheels is cramping your style then consider a regear which would be very expensive. Question: was your car this weak before you got your wheels?
07-12-2003, 01:00 AM
#24
If his CEL is not on his knock senser wont retard him of anypower on the low end. Its the ECU that retards the power when the CEL comes on, not the knock senser itself, so changing it wont help unless it trigers a CEL. BTW Mike, I really think that getting a tune up and cleaning your TB will help out alot.
07-12-2003, 04:25 AM
#25
I agree with Max4U, a good tune up will. I usually do that every 30k miles. Also, pull your plugs out and check it. I had also noticed that my car has been using up more gas than the previous Maxima I owned, and also compared it to others in this forum (there was a thread about this regarding everyone's mpg). So I pulled the plugs out and noticed that oil has been getting to it which explains why I feel the a couple of the plugs are misfiring. I am getting the valve cover and plug seals replaced tomorrow to fix that. So pull your plugs out and see what you can find.
07-12-2003, 04:34 AM
#26
I might have a good idea. Have you tested your car battery lately? Also, the alternator?
With such high mileage, are you still using the stock battery? I know that if your battery is dying it can cause a noticable loss in performance. I can say this through experience since I used to drive an auto before. After the new battery, acceleration became smoother and more linear.
With such high mileage, are you still using the stock battery? I know that if your battery is dying it can cause a noticable loss in performance. I can say this through experience since I used to drive an auto before. After the new battery, acceleration became smoother and more linear.
07-12-2003, 08:38 AM
#27
Originally posted by TurDz
I might have a good idea. Have you tested your car battery lately? Also, the alternator?
With such high mileage, are you still using the stock battery? I know that if your battery is dying it can cause a noticable loss in performance. I can say this through experience since I used to drive an auto before. After the new battery, acceleration became smoother and more linear.
I might have a good idea. Have you tested your car battery lately? Also, the alternator?
With such high mileage, are you still using the stock battery? I know that if your battery is dying it can cause a noticable loss in performance. I can say this through experience since I used to drive an auto before. After the new battery, acceleration became smoother and more linear.
07-13-2003, 11:37 PM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,391
Originally posted by mforrest100
Now thats very interesting that you point that out. Actually I just got a new battery last Sunday because it died. I have a system in my car and a stinger cap with a voltmeter and it points out that my car is running 12. somthing volts of power. I've heard that it shouldn't be pushing less than 13 - 14 volts. So people have told me thats a sign of an alternator about to go. Also, my alternator is making a whining noise. Sometimes low sometimes high. I bought one to replace it so I'll see if that can effect it like you said. Keep the advice coming. Thanks. Mike.
Now thats very interesting that you point that out. Actually I just got a new battery last Sunday because it died. I have a system in my car and a stinger cap with a voltmeter and it points out that my car is running 12. somthing volts of power. I've heard that it shouldn't be pushing less than 13 - 14 volts. So people have told me thats a sign of an alternator about to go. Also, my alternator is making a whining noise. Sometimes low sometimes high. I bought one to replace it so I'll see if that can effect it like you said. Keep the advice coming. Thanks. Mike.
07-14-2003, 10:27 AM
#33
I only use supreme at any gas station I go to. I'm also going to swap out my alternator today and I might even ask my friend to try his intake system to see if that may be the problem. Thanks for all the advice.
07-14-2003, 10:53 AM
#34
This has all the stench of a bad knock sensor. This happened to me at about 165,000 miles. I went from a stock 17.0 to a 16.1 jusy because I changed my knock sensor. And btw the check engine light did not come on. What you might do is this. take a look at the sensor, and if it has any cracks on it then it probably needs replacing. Or you might try using a voltrometer to see if it is sending any signal back to the ecu.
07-14-2003, 11:27 AM
#35
Originally posted by 2naboy
This has all the stench of a bad knock sensor. This happened to me at about 165,000 miles. I went from a stock 17.0 to a 16.1 jusy because I changed my knock sensor. And btw the check engine light did not come on. What you might do is this. take a look at the sensor, and if it has any cracks on it then it probably needs replacing. Or you might try using a voltrometer to see if it is sending any signal back to the ecu.
This has all the stench of a bad knock sensor. This happened to me at about 165,000 miles. I went from a stock 17.0 to a 16.1 jusy because I changed my knock sensor. And btw the check engine light did not come on. What you might do is this. take a look at the sensor, and if it has any cracks on it then it probably needs replacing. Or you might try using a voltrometer to see if it is sending any signal back to the ecu.
07-14-2003, 11:28 AM
#36
Originally posted by 2naboy
This has all the stench of a bad knock sensor. This happened to me at about 165,000 miles. I went from a stock 17.0 to a 16.1 jusy because I changed my knock sensor. And btw the check engine light did not come on. What you might do is this. take a look at the sensor, and if it has any cracks on it then it probably needs replacing. Or you might try using a voltrometer to see if it is sending any signal back to the ecu.
This has all the stench of a bad knock sensor. This happened to me at about 165,000 miles. I went from a stock 17.0 to a 16.1 jusy because I changed my knock sensor. And btw the check engine light did not come on. What you might do is this. take a look at the sensor, and if it has any cracks on it then it probably needs replacing. Or you might try using a voltrometer to see if it is sending any signal back to the ecu.
07-14-2003, 09:53 PM
#37
Ok. I changed my alternator today and also I found that the throttle line had a lot of slack so we made it tighter. So far I am feeling a difference. The low end is returning so I'm hoping that when I do my tune up and clean the TB this will release more of that low end power. Also will still check that knock sensor like a lot of you suggested. Thanks for the help everyone.
07-14-2003, 10:29 PM
#38
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 405
Knock Sensor
One more thing, I quickly read through the posts, so maybe I missed it.
If you have a bad a knock sensor, it will not throw a check engine light (CEL), but your ECU will throw a code. 0304 on mine. You can either use one of those diag tools, or use the self-diag procedure.
I tried to test my old knock sensor, using an analog ohm meter, and it read correctly ( I think it was 500K ohms), but the new knock sensor didn't throw any ECU codes and read 500K ohms as well.
So I basically had a bad knock sensor. It returned low end power.
If you have a bad a knock sensor, it will not throw a check engine light (CEL), but your ECU will throw a code. 0304 on mine. You can either use one of those diag tools, or use the self-diag procedure.
I tried to test my old knock sensor, using an analog ohm meter, and it read correctly ( I think it was 500K ohms), but the new knock sensor didn't throw any ECU codes and read 500K ohms as well.
So I basically had a bad knock sensor. It returned low end power.
07-14-2003, 10:50 PM
#39
Sorry to say the obvious...
When I tuned my car up and cleaned the TB at 54k miles, it made a HUGE difference. I gained some loss power back and got better gas mileage.
Why don't you get a ypipe? You will see very impressive gains with the ypipe coupled with the mods you already have.
Why don't you get a ypipe? You will see very impressive gains with the ypipe coupled with the mods you already have.
07-14-2003, 11:19 PM
#40
Question regarding tune-ups: what else is required besides changing plugs, perhaps changing the plug coils if it appears to be cracked? I know on older carburated cars, adjusting the ignition timing and idle speed is a must. But on ECU controlled vehicles, it's pretty much constant. I never did my own tune-ups so I'm unsure as what needs to be done. BTW, how do you check for valve clearance? Also, what's the most effective TB cleaner out there?