Micro-second pauses in acceleration - Going through HELL!
07-14-2003, 05:15 PM
#1
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Micro-second pauses in acceleration - Going through HELL!
I got 55K on my 5-spd 99 SE-L. Changed the spark plugs today, checked the fuel injectors (which are in perfect condition), checked throttle body (perfectly clean) and I still experience micro-second pauses in acceleration...especially in the 3.5 to 6 RPM range. Any suggestions? I have no check engine light on and it's been happening for well over 4 months. Change my oil regularly, put only premium gas in etc. etc. What can be wrong? Max is all stock...except for a K&N cone filter. This is really ****ing me off now. I can't even race a stock accord because this **** slows me down. I seems as though the car chokes or something. I was thinking of a somewhat defective fuel pump but somebody told me if it was that, then I would experience a much bigger and noticable problem. Lastly, as suggested by others, the car does NOT burn more fuel then it ever did before.
HELP ME!
HELP ME!
07-14-2003, 05:21 PM
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY
Posts: 1,424
Re: Micro-second pauses in acceleration - Going through HELL!
Originally posted by I H8 COPS
I still experience micro-second pauses in acceleration...especially in the 3.5 to 6 RPM range. Any suggestions?
I still experience micro-second pauses in acceleration...especially in the 3.5 to 6 RPM range. Any suggestions?
07-14-2003, 06:00 PM
#4
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Originally posted by drewm
Does it feel like it's in sync with engine speed or is it more random?
Does it feel like it's in sync with engine speed or is it more random?
07-14-2003, 06:15 PM
#6
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Originally posted by mzmtg
Change your fuel filter. Check your ECU for the 0304 knock sensor code. Wrap the boots of your ignition coils in a layer of electrical tape, they may be shorting to the valve cover.
Change your fuel filter. Check your ECU for the 0304 knock sensor code. Wrap the boots of your ignition coils in a layer of electrical tape, they may be shorting to the valve cover.
07-14-2003, 07:01 PM
#7
Originally posted by I H8 COPS
You say to check the ECU for 0304 but it's been 4 months and the ECU did not throw a check engine light on even once. Also, where are the boots of my iginition coils located? R u saying that the stock rap sucks?
You say to check the ECU for 0304 but it's been 4 months and the ECU did not throw a check engine light on even once. Also, where are the boots of my iginition coils located? R u saying that the stock rap sucks?
Each ignition coil is attached to each spark plug with a long rubber connector, or "boot." Sometimes the rubber of the boot will deteriorate. This can cause the spark energy to short circuit to the valve cover instead of reaching the spark plug. Removing the coils and wrapping the boots with a layer of electrical tape can solve this problem, or at least rule it out as an issue.
07-14-2003, 08:16 PM
#8
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 577
Check the Mass Air Flow sensor. If you recently put in a K&N cone filter, an excessive film of oil may have fouled the MAF heater element. If that is the case, it would cost near $400 to replace it. Install is a "do-it-yourself" item.
I doubt it would be the knock sensor. A knock detection would reduce the power but it wouldn't result in pulsating power as you describe.
The fuel injectors and filter could also be a likely cause. An electrical issue or clogging could cause the issue you describe.
I doubt it would be the knock sensor. A knock detection would reduce the power but it wouldn't result in pulsating power as you describe.
The fuel injectors and filter could also be a likely cause. An electrical issue or clogging could cause the issue you describe.
07-15-2003, 02:24 AM
#11
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Originally posted by drewm
What kind of spark plugs are you using? If they aren't NGKs that's your problem right there.
What kind of spark plugs are you using? If they aren't NGKs that's your problem right there.
Originally posted by chris j vurnis
Check the Mass Air Flow sensor. If you recently put in a K&N cone filter, an excessive film of oil may have fouled the MAF heater element. If that is the case, it would cost near $400 to replace it. Install is a "do-it-yourself" item.
Check the Mass Air Flow sensor. If you recently put in a K&N cone filter, an excessive film of oil may have fouled the MAF heater element. If that is the case, it would cost near $400 to replace it. Install is a "do-it-yourself" item.
07-15-2003, 05:35 AM
#12
Originally posted by I H8 COPS
And about the K&N cone filter oil getting on the MAF heater element...how can I check if that is the case? Where is this element anyway?
And about the K&N cone filter oil getting on the MAF heater element...how can I check if that is the case? Where is this element anyway?
If you remove the MAF and look into it, you can see the sensing element. It's a couple of small wires in a little hole, right in the middle.
You can try cleaning the MAF by gently rinsing the element with rubbing alcohol.
Also, check the ground connection to the MAF as described here:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=214506
07-15-2003, 08:58 AM
#13
I have had this same problem for about 4 months as well. I have a 99 se 5 speed. I noticed the problem before I put on my intake on. I thought it was bad gas but with the intake on you can hear it make a popping sound. It is only at about 3500 - 6 and only at WOT. It happens randomly. I talked to my mechanic and he said that it is one of my coil packs going. If you keep on the throttle while it is doing this hesitation the check engine light will blink but not stay on and the ECU doesn't store a code. I red a post a while ago from some who had the same problem and they eventually just gave in and bought 6 coil packs and the problem went away.
07-15-2003, 10:53 AM
#15
The thing that really sucks is that it won't do it while reving the motor so you couldn't check voltage on the coil pack. It only does it while the car is moving. I think mine is about to go so then I will know which one. From my research, apparently with 99's it will more then likely be coil pack 2. That is apparently the one that fails.
If anyone knows a way I can figure out which coil pack it is I would appreciate it.
Slop
If anyone knows a way I can figure out which coil pack it is I would appreciate it.
Slop
07-15-2003, 11:39 AM
#16
U wanna try me young boy?
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 1,024
Unplug the knock sensor harness just forward of the TB and plug a 470k resistor across the terminals (so that the computer sees the resistor). If your hesistation is gone then the problem is narrowed to the kncok sensor circuit. if the hesitation is still rpesent then the knock sensor circuit is eliminated.
I don't like your screen name.
I don't like your screen name.
07-15-2003, 12:36 PM
#17
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Originally posted by slop00
The thing that really sucks is that it won't do it while reving the motor so you couldn't check voltage on the coil pack. It only does it while the car is moving. I think mine is about to go so then I will know which one. From my research, apparently with 99's it will more then likely be coil pack 2. That is apparently the one that fails.
If anyone knows a way I can figure out which coil pack it is I would appreciate it.
Slop
The thing that really sucks is that it won't do it while reving the motor so you couldn't check voltage on the coil pack. It only does it while the car is moving. I think mine is about to go so then I will know which one. From my research, apparently with 99's it will more then likely be coil pack 2. That is apparently the one that fails.
If anyone knows a way I can figure out which coil pack it is I would appreciate it.
Slop
07-15-2003, 02:29 PM
#18
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Posts: n/a
Originally posted by slop00
The thing that really sucks is that it won't do it while reving the motor so you couldn't check voltage on the coil pack. It only does it while the car is moving. I think mine is about to go so then I will know which one. From my research, apparently with 99's it will more then likely be coil pack 2. That is apparently the one that fails.
If anyone knows a way I can figure out which coil pack it is I would appreciate it.
Slop
The thing that really sucks is that it won't do it while reving the motor so you couldn't check voltage on the coil pack. It only does it while the car is moving. I think mine is about to go so then I will know which one. From my research, apparently with 99's it will more then likely be coil pack 2. That is apparently the one that fails.
If anyone knows a way I can figure out which coil pack it is I would appreciate it.
Slop
07-15-2003, 02:55 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,391
Originally posted by slop00
The thing that really sucks is that it won't do it while reving the motor so you couldn't check voltage on the coil pack. It only does it while the car is moving. I think mine is about to go so then I will know which one. From my research, apparently with 99's it will more then likely be coil pack 2. That is apparently the one that fails.
If anyone knows a way I can figure out which coil pack it is I would appreciate it.
Slop
The thing that really sucks is that it won't do it while reving the motor so you couldn't check voltage on the coil pack. It only does it while the car is moving. I think mine is about to go so then I will know which one. From my research, apparently with 99's it will more then likely be coil pack 2. That is apparently the one that fails.
If anyone knows a way I can figure out which coil pack it is I would appreciate it.
Slop
For the orig poster, it's here:
1 3 5
2 4 6
front of car
I'd definately try to swap that one out with a new one first.
Also, the front bank and rear bank coils are different, so you can't swap between front and rear.
07-15-2003, 05:34 PM
#20
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Originally posted by drewm
That's amazing.... that it always happens to be the #2 coil, because that's the one on my 99 that went out also.
For the orig poster, it's here:
1 3 5
2 4 6
front of car
I'd definately try to swap that one out with a new one first.
Also, the front bank and rear bank coils are different, so you can't swap between front and rear.
That's amazing.... that it always happens to be the #2 coil, because that's the one on my 99 that went out also.
For the orig poster, it's here:
1 3 5
2 4 6
front of car
I'd definately try to swap that one out with a new one first.
Also, the front bank and rear bank coils are different, so you can't swap between front and rear.
07-15-2003, 09:27 PM
#22
Re: hmm
Originally posted by I H8 COPS
I just thought of something...what if I wrap the defective ignition coil in electric tape? You think that might temporarily help dipict the defective coil? Or will electric tape do nothing to prevent say a misfire that is already happening?
I just thought of something...what if I wrap the defective ignition coil in electric tape? You think that might temporarily help dipict the defective coil? Or will electric tape do nothing to prevent say a misfire that is already happening?
Originally posted by mzmtg
Each ignition coil is attached to each spark plug with a long rubber connector, or "boot." Sometimes the rubber of the boot will deteriorate. This can cause the spark energy to short circuit to the valve cover instead of reaching the spark plug. Removing the coils and wrapping the boots with a layer of electrical tape can solve this problem, or at least rule it out as an issue.
Each ignition coil is attached to each spark plug with a long rubber connector, or "boot." Sometimes the rubber of the boot will deteriorate. This can cause the spark energy to short circuit to the valve cover instead of reaching the spark plug. Removing the coils and wrapping the boots with a layer of electrical tape can solve this problem, or at least rule it out as an issue.
07-16-2003, 02:11 PM
#23
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Posts: n/a
WOW
wrapped ignition coil #2 with electric tape today. Wrapped it all around...very nicely with lots of layers etc. All I have to say now is W O W ! It freakin worked! My pauses stopped! It's very weird because when I took the ignition coil #2 out (the one most people told me will most likely be defective for some odd reason) the rubber and everything on the coil seemed perfectly normal. I did not see any deteriorating rubber or anything of that sort. I guess it somehow misfired even though you could not see any defects with a naked eye. AMAZING!
07-16-2003, 07:06 PM
#24
In the last 2-3 weeks I think I had what you are talking about happen to me in my 96 SE 5spd. It kind of feels like you hit a very small patch of ice. I know that sounds weird but that's the closest thing I can think of that feels like this hesitation. It only seems to do this on WOT like mentioned before on my max too. Let us know if you do anything to try to correct it and if it works or not.
07-16-2003, 08:29 PM
#25
Dyno plot says I have the most area under the Administrator curve
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,060
I have the same hesitation issue right now. You get on the gas and you start accelerating, but then there is this momentary lag for just an instant, and then you're back to accelerating again, right? If so, I'm getting this from lower RPM's also, not just above 3k.
Coil #6 went bad awhile ago. Replaced. Hesitation still there occasionally. Knock sensor is now bad. Bypassed temporarily with 470k resistor. Hesitation still there. More frequently. Tracked timing on OBD-II logger while driving. Lag does not follow timing advance/retard (thought it might have been related to the knock sensor), so it's not that.
I'll try this Coil #2 trick with wrapping the boot.
While I'm ordering my knock sensor, I think I'll probably order another a front and a rear coil for not if but WHEN I need them, and some other stuff too.
Coil #6 went bad awhile ago. Replaced. Hesitation still there occasionally. Knock sensor is now bad. Bypassed temporarily with 470k resistor. Hesitation still there. More frequently. Tracked timing on OBD-II logger while driving. Lag does not follow timing advance/retard (thought it might have been related to the knock sensor), so it's not that.
I'll try this Coil #2 trick with wrapping the boot.
While I'm ordering my knock sensor, I think I'll probably order another a front and a rear coil for not if but WHEN I need them, and some other stuff too.
07-16-2003, 09:25 PM
#26
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Originally posted by SteVTEC
I have the same hesitation issue right now. You get on the gas and you start accelerating, but then there is this momentary lag for just an instant, and then you're back to accelerating again, right? If so, I'm getting this from lower RPM's also, not just above 3k.
I have the same hesitation issue right now. You get on the gas and you start accelerating, but then there is this momentary lag for just an instant, and then you're back to accelerating again, right? If so, I'm getting this from lower RPM's also, not just above 3k.
07-16-2003, 10:23 PM
#27
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
Guys With Hesition
I beleive it has something to do with Backpressure...ever since I put on my Cat-back 2.5" all the back, I have felt that same hesition..it wasnt there before the exhaust went on, even not with just the y-pipe..
So, everyone that has the hesistion, do you have a cat-back and y-pipe
-matt
Remember when you start modding these engines, everything wont act the same
So, everyone that has the hesistion, do you have a cat-back and y-pipe
-matt
Remember when you start modding these engines, everything wont act the same
so I don't think it's has anything to do with aftermarket parts. 
11-26-2003, 11:34 PM
#29
i'm happy to see that i'm not the only one that has had this weird thing happen. did all of you determine that it was a bad coil pack?? i've had it happen about 4 times and it freaks me out. i was hoping it was just the fuel filter or something and hoping it's not an $80 part. 
the max has seen better days. that thing on top of my tempormental speedometer that sometimes needs to be hit to get back to working, makes me sad and annoyed.
any help or new info guys?? thanks
the max has seen better days. that thing on top of my tempormental speedometer that sometimes needs to be hit to get back to working, makes me sad and annoyed. any help or new info guys?? thanks
11-27-2003, 12:22 AM
#30
It's odd, but I think I might also experience this. I thought it was just in my head. My dyno even shows the spikes. I may try the coil wrapping, otherwise I am going to try to find coil packs from a 97 and replace them all. Whatever they did to the coil packs in 99, it's not good.
11-27-2003, 05:57 PM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 118
I'm having the exact same issue right now! Our coil packs SUCK on the 99's. I've already replaced KS, fuel filter, #5 cylinder coil pack, and I'm replacing #3 cylinder coil pack tomorrow. If this persists, I'll wrap the whole bunch of them in frickin electrical tape and see how it goes.
11-27-2003, 07:11 PM
#33
Well I am another with the same issue. Is anyone getting really bad idle? because I have all the symptoms that u guys have. What happens is when I go from crusing to neutral my idle will just drop and it doesnt do it all the time seems to happen more when its hot out. I have replaced my Knock,F.Filter,checked Fuel Injectors,replaced O2 sensors. I have had codes for my knock sensor and my right bank running to rich. I have took it to mechanics and they cant find whats going on either. I wasnt sure if this hesitation is connected to my bad idle.
11-28-2003, 07:44 AM
#34
I'm amazed with the number of people with this problem. In some ways I'm happy to know I'm not the only one, in others I'm not so happy because I have this feeling the coils will continue to cause problems.
11-28-2003, 08:50 AM
#35
Ive had this prob bad for about two years , just solved it with a complete overhall of my egr system and put a newer MAFS in.
When i put on my pathy TB my airflow increased alot which made my prob worse, i assumed that the TB was adding to the prob,it wasnt its just that the extra flow was taxing my bad MAFS and clogged egr system.
With those problems fixed my airflow was 10 to 20% more , my car felt like a beast , i had to dyno ,when i did i was surprised!
When i put on my pathy TB my airflow increased alot which made my prob worse, i assumed that the TB was adding to the prob,it wasnt its just that the extra flow was taxing my bad MAFS and clogged egr system.
With those problems fixed my airflow was 10 to 20% more , my car felt like a beast , i had to dyno ,when i did i was surprised!
07-30-2009, 08:39 PM
#36
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 3
My 1997 Maxima HAD the same hesitation problem. I checked the front sparks plugs (2,4,6) and found #2 was broken (could spin top half). So I replaced it with a Bosch plug, but there was not much improvement. The nex day I replaced all the plugs with NGK ones, ohm checked all the coils (all ok), and wrapped them all with electrical tape. Problem solved, no more hesistation. Now onto how to increase power; engine seems a bit sluggish.
07-30-2009, 10:11 PM
#37
My 1997 Maxima HAD the same hesitation problem. I checked the front sparks plugs (2,4,6) and found #2 was broken (could spin top half). So I replaced it with a Bosch plug, but there was not much improvement. The nex day I replaced all the plugs with NGK ones, ohm checked all the coils (all ok), and wrapped them all with electrical tape. Problem solved, no more hesistation. Now onto how to increase power; engine seems a bit sluggish.
This thread is over 6 years old.
