16.66 in the 1/4 mile?
#41
if peak HP is at 5600 wouldn't it make sense to go a little past that so that the next gear would be in the powerband? I'm obviously no race expert but that's what i heard
By the way, while i was testing out my air box mod i tried manually shifting from first the second at 4500 and the tranny still shifted at close to redline. maybe i did it wrong but i'll try again later.
By the way, while i was testing out my air box mod i tried manually shifting from first the second at 4500 and the tranny still shifted at close to redline. maybe i did it wrong but i'll try again later.
#42
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Since you asked, I'll tell you what I've found
Originally posted by nforg
I went to the library today and I couldn't seem to find the source labeled as, "JimW's 45 scratch writing on the back on track slips." I didn't say I knew everything, but thanks for letting me know. Also, track slips are not a realible source due to all the variables involved.
I just simply wanta know why 5000 is the best, I was always under the impression the closer to red line the better. But if 5000 is better, why? and why isn't say 4500 better, and what makes 5500 worse?? Is this due to your specific modifications that make 5000 the best, or is it the best for all automatic transmissions??
Also I said, all the car's that I knew of, wouldn't shift at 5000, but If you say yours does I'm not calling you a liar; but I'll pass on the inviation to NY, thanks. I did like your detailed response on my example of how an auto will override what the driver does though (refering to rev-limiters/ing).
I will admit I am completly ignorant to why 5000rpm's is the best place to shift at, please educate me. I hope your response on why 5000rpms is the best shifting spot is as technical as it was on rev-limiters. Thank You.
-Nate
I went to the library today and I couldn't seem to find the source labeled as, "JimW's 45 scratch writing on the back on track slips." I didn't say I knew everything, but thanks for letting me know. Also, track slips are not a realible source due to all the variables involved.
I just simply wanta know why 5000 is the best, I was always under the impression the closer to red line the better. But if 5000 is better, why? and why isn't say 4500 better, and what makes 5500 worse?? Is this due to your specific modifications that make 5000 the best, or is it the best for all automatic transmissions??
Also I said, all the car's that I knew of, wouldn't shift at 5000, but If you say yours does I'm not calling you a liar; but I'll pass on the inviation to NY, thanks. I did like your detailed response on my example of how an auto will override what the driver does though (refering to rev-limiters/ing).
I will admit I am completly ignorant to why 5000rpm's is the best place to shift at, please educate me. I hope your response on why 5000rpms is the best shifting spot is as technical as it was on rev-limiters. Thank You.
-Nate
First of all, you cannot say track times aren't reliable as there are too many variables, at least I think that you can't. This entire thread is about how to lower your et's. I am simply giving people advice as to how I did it. Being that I probably have more experience at racing an auto Max than many people on this BBS.
As far as 5000 being the best rpm to shift at. Let me explain. It's been a while since I've had the Max, so I may have forgotten a few things, but I'll be as accurate as my memory will allow. As I'm sure you know, a vehicle will accelerate most rapidly when the engine is kept as close as possible to it's torque peak. Since the VQ engine makes peak torque at close to 4000 (IIRC) you want the engine to stay as close as possible to that rpm when you change gears. Now, I also believe that the VQ makes its 190 Hp at something like 5500 rpm, perhaps less so. I have also told you (and many others) that the engine (with a stock exhaust and intake) seems to run out of breath in the high rpm ranges. If the redline is 6500, but the power peak is at 5500, running the engine past the HP peak is just wasting your time. You'd be better off shifting into 2nd gear, as the VQ's gearing is pretty optimal for standing start acceleration. Each upshift at 5500 rpm will put you just below 4000, I believe. Right where you want to be, in the meat of the powerband. Now, in preparation for the 2-3 upshift (automatics here) you'll be running close to 70 mph in 2nd gear (if memory serves me correctly, I remember with my ECU and the extra rpms it allowed, I would be at 80mph still in 2nd gear). Now you have an engine that is past it HP peak, trying to accelerate a vehicle and punch a large hole in the air. It's torque is going to do a better job than the falling HP (remember HP=TQ @ 5252 rpm, after that point, one or the other is falling rapidly) of accelerating the vehicle. You shift 3rd, and you're right back in the meat of the torque curve again, 4000 rpm.
Now, in my car, moving the shifter at 5000rpm would get me a 5500 rpm upshift, right at the HP peak, not spinning the motor faster than it needed to make power. It also landed me right back at 4000rpm, for maximum acceleration in the next gear. That method rewarded me with the best et's and trap speeds.
When I added a Y-pipe and Intake, I found that I could rev the engine to 6000 rpm before shifting (which gave me a 6500rpm shift point) Why? Because the engine made more HP in the higher range, and it pulled hard all the way to 6000rpm. I found this through trial and error, and the method described was quicker.
Now, as far as HP&TQ, take a look at JULIAN's post. He has the Y-pipe and ECU that I had in my car. He also has a 95 auto, Fed. emissioned. His car is as close to mine as you'll find. Even the same color.
#43
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It's not necessarily that far off-->:
Originally posted by Dave B
Woo hoo, I'm running a 14.7@95.3mph according to their correction calculator EVEN with my pathetic 2.4 60 foot. So if I could get my 60 foots into the 2.1 range, I could be running a 14.3 on a sea level track. I wish.....
All kidding aside, I don't know how much of that program I would trust. It says that my car could only manage 15.2s@90mph with my current hp/tq to the wheels. It says I've got 210 fwhp and that I'm only using 191 fwhp when I'm running my 14.9@94mph.
Dave
Woo hoo, I'm running a 14.7@95.3mph according to their correction calculator EVEN with my pathetic 2.4 60 foot. So if I could get my 60 foots into the 2.1 range, I could be running a 14.3 on a sea level track. I wish.....
All kidding aside, I don't know how much of that program I would trust. It says that my car could only manage 15.2s@90mph with my current hp/tq to the wheels. It says I've got 210 fwhp and that I'm only using 191 fwhp when I'm running my 14.9@94mph.
Dave
#44
Since we're talking about 1/4mi and ETs did you ever run slicks Jim? Right now I'm riding on a set of 18"s, but I do have a set of 16" SE wheels with Nitto NT555R Drag slicks on them. I was going to try to go to the track tomorrow, but I was somewhat reserved about actually running the slicks. I have a 5spd. so it's probably not as bad for my transmission, but not many people have actually run slicks. I'll probably run them anyway, but I try not to abuse my car too much
-hype
-hype
#45
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Never ran slicks-->
Originally posted by xHypex
Since we're talking about 1/4mi and ETs did you ever run slicks Jim? Right now I'm riding on a set of 18"s, but I do have a set of 16" SE wheels with Nitto NT555R Drag slicks on them. I was going to try to go to the track tomorrow, but I was somewhat reserved about actually running the slicks. I have a 5spd. so it's probably not as bad for my transmission, but not many people have actually run slicks. I'll probably run them anyway, but I try not to abuse my car too much
-hype
Since we're talking about 1/4mi and ETs did you ever run slicks Jim? Right now I'm riding on a set of 18"s, but I do have a set of 16" SE wheels with Nitto NT555R Drag slicks on them. I was going to try to go to the track tomorrow, but I was somewhat reserved about actually running the slicks. I have a 5spd. so it's probably not as bad for my transmission, but not many people have actually run slicks. I'll probably run them anyway, but I try not to abuse my car too much
-hype
Jeff K ran slicks and he ran a 14.3's in his 5spd with intake, exhaust and Y-pipe.
#46
hey jim w, thanks again for the advice. last time at the track i made most of my runs racing with my buddy who has a 325is and we were pretty much dead even. but he just got gears installed so his car should be hella fast now. I'm hoping that new plugs, air box mod, and your tips on launch and shift rpm will at least keep me close. do you think the brake torqueing (?) or the burn outs killed your tranny? just wondering when i should expect the tranny to go.
#47
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To be honest with you
Originally posted by 95greense
hey jim w, thanks again for the advice. last time at the track i made most of my runs racing with my buddy who has a 325is and we were pretty much dead even. but he just got gears installed so his car should be hella fast now. I'm hoping that new plugs, air box mod, and your tips on launch and shift rpm will at least keep me close. do you think the brake torqueing (?) or the burn outs killed your tranny? just wondering when i should expect the tranny to go.
hey jim w, thanks again for the advice. last time at the track i made most of my runs racing with my buddy who has a 325is and we were pretty much dead even. but he just got gears installed so his car should be hella fast now. I'm hoping that new plugs, air box mod, and your tips on launch and shift rpm will at least keep me close. do you think the brake torqueing (?) or the burn outs killed your tranny? just wondering when i should expect the tranny to go.
There are a few guys that have run 15.4's with nothing but an intake. Eben (DC) does it on a regular basis. Not too many guys run faster than that with autos though.
Good Luck
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