slfalco

OK, maybe this post will actually work... I am hearing a low kind of grinding sound from the front left when I turn right. Also, when I slow to a stop, I hear the noise from about 10MPH down to a complete stop. Does this sound like a CV joint problem? I checked underneath, and the boots look OK, no rips or leaks, and the brakes and wheel/tire are OK also.. Also, is the front wheel bearing serviceable, or is it sealed? Thx....

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

call marty at www.raxles.com talk to him !! that place is the best ! one happy customer here !

gabex

iTrader: (2)

I have the same problem, mine started less frequent like yours. Sometimes it'll go from Stop - 30MPH and Not necesarily when Im turning.

araffio

iTrader: (9)

Marty is the man!!! I bought a rebuilt axle from www.replacementautoparts.com and it started leaking grease and making noise in 2 days !!! Thank god they are giving me a refund. www.Raxles.com is the only way to go.

From the sound of it, you definitely need an axle, exact same sounds I had, only mine was passenger side. My boots were fine as well...

maxcross

Okay, axle maybe, but very possibly a hub bearing. I had a ripped outer boot, and an almost dry joint that was making all sorts of noise for a while, or so I thought. I replaced the axle, and just as I got on the main road from the shop, the noise began again. It's mostly when pressure is applied to the LF wheel (i.e. turning right which causes the car to lean on the LF wheel, or braking from a high speed like 40 or more). A two minute drive and that was the diagnosis. Not too much else it could be. Check out the axle first, because it's not great to repack them, and if it's not leaking grease or the boot's not cracked, then you may not need to replace the axle. Take it to a Nissan specialist.

Cross

slfalco

Thanks, I am wondering about the wheel bearings in the hub assembly too. I have just under 60K, I am going to read my warranty book tonight to see if this would be covered under the 60K mile drivetrain warranty.. If so, I will let the dealer handle it.. If not, I will try and diagnose it myself.. I assume that the hub is a sealed unit, correct? Wondering how hard it is to change it, and what it might cost....

maxcross

Apparently, it's a pain in the *** to fix. The part is only about $50-60, and it depends how much you can get buy with on labor. total for me was about $150 from a Nissan specialist. As far as the noise, if it is a metal on metal rubbing sound that isn't constant, but a rub-rub-rub noise, mostly when wheel travel occurs, then it may be it.

slfalco

Thanks, the noise is kinda hard to describe, I notice it mostly when slowing to a stop, or turning right (like on a exit ramp). It is not a clicking sound, but sounds more like a tire would sound if it is rubbing on something, like a low-pitched humming sound. The pitch drops down as the car comes to a stop. I am going to raise up the wheel and see if I can better determine where it might be coming from. I appreciate all the ideas and opinions, it is invaluable to have info from so many owners and cars out there.

MadChef

iTrader: (1)

Just my two cents byt from the sound of it, the problem might be your upper strut mount(s). Have you recently had any work done on your front struts?

gabex

iTrader: (2)

Well I went for a drive today, the noise started to **** me off as I passed MIDAS, so I stopped in. I told him about the noise and to take a look (With no intentions on letting them fix it .. especially for $900). Anyways, he said my Front Brake Calipers were not releasing like they should which is causing the noise of metal rubbing metal. All the sticking was causing excess heat and that melted my Axle Boot. Well he wanted me to replace my front rotors, pads, calipers, and the driveaxle for $900 so I left.

How often do calipers lock up and do this? Would I be better of buying a rebuild kit or just buying a new one? And does what he said have any truth to it?

MadChef

iTrader: (1)

Midas loves to sell new calipers. They give up on them too easily. Calipers should last for a good while.
I commonly have places tell me a caliper has failed, only to have the next place clean it up and it works just fine. Just my experience but thought you should know.
Take it somewhere else and have them clean the calipers. See if that fixes the problem.
How many miles on the rotors and pads? Are the rotors below spec?

gabex

iTrader: (2)

I put new pads on the front last summer, so I'd say less than 10k. The rotors weren't below spec, but he said the "failing caliper" caused the rotors to warp early (sureeeee).

MadChef

iTrader: (1)

10k on the pads? That is pretty low I guess normally I'd blame that on the rotors....but if he says they aren't below spec, I dunno.
Maybe if you paint your calipers bright red you'll fix the problem

Sober

I've got a similar vibration with no noticeable sound while in a right hand turn at normal (30-60mph) speeds. The vibration seems to come from the passenger side but is very faint and only can be felt in the steering wheel. The car only has 50,000, so I'm wondering what could be failing this early?

GodsmackMAX

iTrader: (4)

I just recently (last week) installed new pads and rotors on the front of my 97. I have 114k roughly on the ol' meter-o-life. Well, yesterday afternoon I was driving down the road and I started braking and I heard this clang clang clang sound coming from the passenger front wheel. At first I thought that maybe the brake pad got out of the clip somehow.

I got home and jacked the whole front up so I could start the car, put it in drive, and see if I could tell where the noise was coming from. (I know this probably wasnt safe, but oh well) When I looked at the passenger side, I could clearly see the CV joint wobbleing(sp?) while in drive.

I called my local trusted mechanic and he told me $100 for parts and $50 for labor for the one side. Does this sound reasonable? Did installing the brake pads and rotors put more stress on it or something? When I think back, I did have to install a new stud on the passenger side, and I was pounding on the broken one to get it out. Could that have provoked it? I'm driving up to the shop tomorrow to get it fixed. Can anything else be damaged from driving on a bad CV joint? Also, should I get him to check anything else while he is in there, like tranny and such?

Sorry for all the questions!
Thanks,
bluemaxdriver4

maxcross

Don't go to Midas. That bothers me. For people that like their cars enough to add aftermarket parts for various reasons, you really should be seeing a certified Nissan tech. That doesn't necessarily mean a dealer, cause they are really expensive. I would just recommend it. I just don't get a comfortable feeling from places like Midas, Jiffy Lube, Maaco, and other big chains. I've had bad experiences with all of the above including NTB, and I know people that work at a few. That is another reason why I wouldn't take my car there. The place that I go is primarily import, and mostly Nissan, specifically Z cars. Most have worked for Nissan, and one of them for quite a while. Very knowledgeable, a bit pricey, but worth it.

gabex

iTrader: (2)

Midas and CarX are the only places I have in my town, so I stopped to get an "idea" of what could be wrong. By no means would I ever let them work on my car. For them to tell me I needed new pads is crap, I know mine are fine. My rotors aren't below spec, why would I need new rotors too? I just want to fix the problem.

Kevin Wong

I have this same problem, I have noises from the front passanger's side wheel. It sounds like a rubbing/grinding noise that occurs as I slow down sometimes. Somedays are worse than others, and some days it's not there at all. I believe I've isolated it down to the drivetrain. I removed my wheels, rotors, pads, and calipers. I don't have a dust shield since I have the Brembo Gran Turismo kit. I put the car in 1st and the noise was still there. It's either the spindle, wheel bearings, cv joint, or axle. My boots are fine though...66K miles on the car.

slfalco

I just made an appt with the dealer, since I am just under 60K miles, and hopefully it will be covered by the drivetrain warranty... The appt is not till the 18th of Aug, so it will be a while before I can report back what the problem is, but I will do that... Thx....

PRPmax

Wheel bearing and hub.. done deal! Seems a lot of this is going on here. I had the same problem a few weeks ago. I guess its that time of the year for bearings and hub assemblys.

nissan charges 45 bucks for the wheel bearing.. another 15 bucks for the seals front/back.. and 145 for the hub. You can have a shop install these for 60-70 bucks.

Kevin Wong

There is play in my front passanger's side wheel. I'm convinced it's the wheel bearings. I grabbed a pair on eBay for cheap and I think that should solve my problem.

slfalco

Well, I just had the left front wheel bearing replaced at the dealer (warranty), but the same noise is still there. They are insisting that it is my tire causing it, I don't know how to disprove that unless I replace the freaking tires, which is not gonna happen, they still have useful tread on them. If they really replaced the wheel bearing (I am assuming they did), then I am not sure what the cause is.. I think I will swap the wheel with the rear one on that side, but I really doubt that will prove anything. I am concerned about the differential bearings, I heard that there are problems with some of those on 4th gen 5-speeds... My Haynes book says they could be suspect if I hear a noise turning one direction but not the other.. Has anyone had that (a grinding/humming noise heard turning one direction only), that turned out to be the differential bearings going? There is no fluid leak at all, so I don't really have a case to point at them, but SOMETHING is making that noise...