lowering car want to know how hard it is to do myself
lowering car want to know how hard it is to do myself
I have the Tokico High Performance Gas Shocks and the Progress Springs and i just want to know if this is hard to do what problems i could run into thank you for your help in advance
Originally posted by s0ber
Im doing mine tomorrow.. H&R springs, GR-2 struts, new kyb struts(front/rear) and hopefully putting on my rims after that... I'll let you know how it is
Shouldn't the rear be more tricky than the front?
Im doing mine tomorrow.. H&R springs, GR-2 struts, new kyb struts(front/rear) and hopefully putting on my rims after that... I'll let you know how it is
Shouldn't the rear be more tricky than the front?
Not really. The front's are much larger and heavier. More awkward to manuever into place and stuff....you'll see...good luck
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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You don't need a spring compressor to get the springs off the rear of an SE. Don't waste your time, just take the nut off, the assembly will jump about 3 inches - thats it!
The fronts are a completely different animal. Be very carefull while your compressing them. They are under a great amount of preload. Take your time and compress them evenly.
Normally you don't need to compress lowering springs to get them back on. I have found that Progress springs sometimes need a little bit of compression to get them onto the front struts. The rears you can just push down on and have your buddy catch the top nut.
Here's a few hints:
Front - Both wheels have to be off the ground to get the struts out, you cannot jack up only one side of the car at a time, you'll fight the sway bar. Make sure the word OUT stamped on the upper spring perch faces out or is in line with the lower strut mounting flang.
Rear - Put the top mount on and line up the studs with the lower bolt hole on the shock.
Important tools to have:
LARGE 1/2" drive breaker bar!
19mm 1/2" drive 6 point socket
17mm 1/2" drive 6 point socket
17mm open end wrench
14mm socket
14mm wrench
12mm socket
10mm socket (ABS)
Medium size adjustable wrench - used to hold the nub on top of the rear shock while you remove the nut with the box side of your 14mm wrench.
The job is actually quite easy to do. Take your time and WD-40 is your friend.
The fronts are a completely different animal. Be very carefull while your compressing them. They are under a great amount of preload. Take your time and compress them evenly.
Normally you don't need to compress lowering springs to get them back on. I have found that Progress springs sometimes need a little bit of compression to get them onto the front struts. The rears you can just push down on and have your buddy catch the top nut.
Here's a few hints:
Front - Both wheels have to be off the ground to get the struts out, you cannot jack up only one side of the car at a time, you'll fight the sway bar. Make sure the word OUT stamped on the upper spring perch faces out or is in line with the lower strut mounting flang.
Rear - Put the top mount on and line up the studs with the lower bolt hole on the shock.
Important tools to have:
LARGE 1/2" drive breaker bar!
19mm 1/2" drive 6 point socket
17mm 1/2" drive 6 point socket
17mm open end wrench
14mm socket
14mm wrench
12mm socket
10mm socket (ABS)
Medium size adjustable wrench - used to hold the nub on top of the rear shock while you remove the nut with the box side of your 14mm wrench.
The job is actually quite easy to do. Take your time and WD-40 is your friend.
Make sure when you put the front strut mounts onto your new strut, that the word "OUT" is pointing staight out the side of the car. If you put them in wrong, your springs will make noise when you turn the steering wheel.
I did the job myself with some help from Nick Stamm. (Thanks Nick!)
I found the spring compressor a big help, but I had to buy a socket big enough for the nuts on the compressor. I also had a hard time loosening the rusted mounting nuts (broke a socket wrench and had to go to a garage with an air wrench to get one of the rears loosened).
Also, one tip: mark the location of the strut parts to the caps with chalk so you can put it back together the right way. I got one strut partway back on but could not line everything up and had to take it off, re-compress the spring, rotate a part and start again...
Good luck.
I found the spring compressor a big help, but I had to buy a socket big enough for the nuts on the compressor. I also had a hard time loosening the rusted mounting nuts (broke a socket wrench and had to go to a garage with an air wrench to get one of the rears loosened).
Also, one tip: mark the location of the strut parts to the caps with chalk so you can put it back together the right way. I got one strut partway back on but could not line everything up and had to take it off, re-compress the spring, rotate a part and start again...
Good luck.
Originally posted by aznsap
are wrapping the couple end coils of springs recommended?
are wrapping the couple end coils of springs recommended?
i put the shocks and springs on the other day everything went smooth the only other question i have is the Camber specs. going to be the same if not what would they be thanks for you help. oh ya and the car rides like a dream now
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yeah your right on that... When I opened the box I was like WTF when I saw them huge fat springs for the front and the skinny ones for the rear.

people who say they felt no difference after installing sprints must have been riding on completely blown suspension before
