I just installed a y-pipe. It was a whole day job. The installation sounded easy but it was difficult due to limited space underneath the car and hard to reach areas. I was all scratch up everywhere and had problems during the installation. I guess, if you want to play, you got it pay or take the pain. All that trouble for 15hp that I don’t think I will get with my A/T. I thought I will get a better throttle response but I don’t feel it. I am starting to feel that it is a mistake. Anyway, I don’t to switch back to stock y-pipe. It is obvious that it is more difficult to install a stock y-pipe. I would not mind getting questions for those who are planning on installing y-pipe on their own. I am not sure, if I would recommend this to y-pipe with A/T owners.

Anyway, I would appreciate, if some of you folks can answer some of the questions that I may have problems with.

1. I used a breaker bar to tighten the front and the back manifold nuts but I could not use the breaker bar on the CAT nuts because the breaker is too long so I had to use a racket. I’m worry that it may not be tight enough.
2. The hanger does not fit on original position of the y-pipe. What do you do with hanger? I have it hang there without any screw on it. Is this ok.
3. I am getting a low growl sound at about 1.5 to 2rpm. It does not sound too loud on the highway for now. Is this normal or I needed to tighten some nuts?
4. I brought some nuts to replace all of the nuts. I was told that brass nuts will not rust as fast as stainless steel. Is that true?

 

anyone?

 

Man it's funny that this thread has been viewed 60 times but no one has responded. I guess all the wrong people are looking at it.

 

1. NEVER EVER use a breaker bar to tighten exhaust bolts. You should never EVER be applying that much torque to tighten to such a small bolt. Even if you used anti-seize (which I'm betting on not), I'd like to see how hard it is to take those nuts off later.

2. Was this y-pipe made for your specific car? The hanger may be in the incorrect position because it is not made for your car. If you purchased this new, speak to the seller. If you bought this used, cut off the hanger on the y that isn't in the right place, go to a muffler shop, or any machine shop with a welder, and some rod. Have them bend and weld a rod on. The most they'll charge you is $20. And yes, you should have a hanger put on. Your engine rocks like crazy when load is applied and removed. Your flex section has to bend in a controlled manner, which is aided by that hanger.

3. That sound is most like the sound of the exhaust now being more evident now that restrictions have been removed, as well as the heat shields that were stamped onto the y, as well as thinner than stock piping.

4. Whomever told you about the brass nuts is a moron. Brass is a VERY maleable/soft metal in comparison to steel. If you were to use brass nuts/bolts on the exhaust, they would never survive. If you are worried about the bolts/nuts seizing, just go out, buy some new bolts/nuts, and anti-seize them before install. I guaruntee you'll get them off without a hitch.

 

breaker bar bad. i would also like to know what pipe you got, my budget was a direct bolt on in every sense of the word. extra noise is normal especially at start up and then it will get quieter once the car is warm. you should be feeling the power of the y between 3k and 4k on up. if you dont feel any extra power you should probably look into other problems with the car, with my y when i hit 4k the tourqe steer will just about pull the wheel out of your hands.

the key to any install is having the right tools, even then i have yet to have an install go problem free

good luck

 

ok am i the only one here that knows stainless does not rust?

 

Who said you would feel the gais right away? There is documentation on this site that will tell you the ECU needs to learn the new addition of the y-pipe.

Now I see why people don't like answering question. We've been over this a million times.

 

If you can't give helpful info, why not just keep your flames to yourself? The people who don't mind answering the questions always do, as they did in this case. This guy probably can't search this site and may not have found what he was looking for on the test site. In either case, your input is unneeded.

 

I just realized that I was not specific enough. I got a budget y-pipe. At the end of the cat nuts, the angle of the pipe angled a little more toward the passenger side so the hanger does not fit correctly. The hanger appears to be about 2 inches away from the cat nuts. I have used anti-seize on the nuts. If breaker bar is bad, did you use your racket to tighten the nuts? A guy from NAPA told that brass nuts are better. He said they use it on their exhausts. I guess I can’t get my refund now.

 

yes.. never ever use a breaker bar to tighten. Just use a ratchet without enough power to make it snug. breaker bars are used to make things budge, in a sense "break". not sure about the bolts, but i dont think brass sounds like a good idea. With the hanger, i had midas custom make me one. Not too expensive as i needed them to help me with other stuff too.

 

where did you folks get your stainless steel nuts?

 

Stainless steel can rust. There are different grades.


Dave

 

I see no flames.

There is no reason a member can not use search. If he would have, most of his questions would have been anwserd. Deezo anwserd one of his questions anyhow, so he was helping.

Your the one with two posts in this thread without anwsering any questions, so who's input is not needed?

 

Okay somebody tell me if the statements, "Now I see why people don't like answering question" and "We've been over this a million times" don't sound like flaming?

 

STOP THREAD CRAPPING YOU FLAMER!

 

The hanger bracket appears to be about 2 inches away from the cat nuts. Did you folks get a good fit with your budget y?

 

yes

 

I already solve the problem. Thanks.