locking car with horn? question?
#1
locking car with horn? question?
I saw on ebay this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2429352245
It says that you can make a horn beep when you lock the car. I have a '99 se with the older remote so i can't toggle to make the horn beep. Just the lights flash twice.
My question: Does anyone one know how to do the horn beeping with the alarm? I figure it has to do with something with the clicking I hear from the trunk area when locking the car.
I did a search but couldn't really find anything useful.
Thanks.
Tom
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2429352245
It says that you can make a horn beep when you lock the car. I have a '99 se with the older remote so i can't toggle to make the horn beep. Just the lights flash twice.
My question: Does anyone one know how to do the horn beeping with the alarm? I figure it has to do with something with the clicking I hear from the trunk area when locking the car.
I did a search but couldn't really find anything useful.
Thanks.
Tom
#2
#3
Originally posted by JaTaN
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...age&pid=39
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...age&pid=39
#6
few problems
Originally posted by image
tell me how it goes.
tell me how it goes.
I got the relay and buzzer from Radio Shack. Not problem there. I think it was $8 plus tax.
I'm not really familiar with relays so I ran into the problem at that point. There are 5 pins on the back. two are for the coils. The other three are confusing. Which wires do I hook up to which pins/ Am I using the three on the back? There is a "NC" pin, a "NO" pin and another pin that I gues is connected somehow? Not quite sure. can someone help out? Also, are there certain type of connectors to use or should I soder wires on? The directions are little confusing for someone with limited electrical background. If someone could help it would be great!!!!!
TIA,
Tom
p.s. can some clarify the schematics from the web site:
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.p...page&pid=39
thanks again.
#8
Same situation here
Tom,
I actually have done the same thing you have and I actually sent an email to the creator of the article on VQPower about the mod with the same questions you posted here. I haven't heard from him yet, but if I do I'll post it here.
I actually have done the same thing you have and I actually sent an email to the creator of the article on VQPower about the mod with the same questions you posted here. I haven't heard from him yet, but if I do I'll post it here.
#9
Originally Posted by tke148
can anyone help me out?
NC - Normally Closed: This means with the relay de-energized the switch is normally closed
NO - Normally Open: This is exactly the opposite. de-energized the switch is open.
-Michael
#11
inj3n,
I read a post a while back saying that if a relay wasn't used, that the siren will chirp with the turn signals or hazards. I don't know if this is true, as I used a relay. Have you used your turn signals since you did this mod (not trying to be a smarta$$, just wondering). I would rather not have used a relay because it was just more wiring, but oh well.
tke148 & corruptone,
I can take digi pics of my setup tomorrow with a relay if you still need it. But I would try inj3n's way without the relay first. If you end up needing pics, email or pm me.
Kind of on the same topic, has anyone put one of these sirens inside the cab that activates when the alarm goes off? It would be a pretty good deterrent to someone staying in the car long with it going off in the cab (mounted like a tweeter in the A-pillar or something).
Dave
I read a post a while back saying that if a relay wasn't used, that the siren will chirp with the turn signals or hazards. I don't know if this is true, as I used a relay. Have you used your turn signals since you did this mod (not trying to be a smarta$$, just wondering). I would rather not have used a relay because it was just more wiring, but oh well.
tke148 & corruptone,
I can take digi pics of my setup tomorrow with a relay if you still need it. But I would try inj3n's way without the relay first. If you end up needing pics, email or pm me.
Kind of on the same topic, has anyone put one of these sirens inside the cab that activates when the alarm goes off? It would be a pretty good deterrent to someone staying in the car long with it going off in the cab (mounted like a tweeter in the A-pillar or something).
Dave
#13
I just did this mod this weekend. I'm an electrician by trade and looked over the diagram several times wodering why a relay was reqiured.
I attached my buzzer red wire to the G/OR and the black to the OR wire.
All i did was parallel the buzzer with the relay coil. The added load of 5ma is minor.
There are 3 of the G/OR wires. The instructions say to use any one but i used the one that was connected directly to the coil (brown relay)
Which ones are the coil ? There are 4 contacts close togeather then there are 2 more wider spaced apart . I used the wider spaced set (follow the orange wires) the other wires goto the rear lights and connecting in with them will cause it to buzz when using the turn signals.
The only downside i can see would be the loudness of the buzzer. When it is in parallel with the coil it has to share the power with the coil. With the way it is wired on VQ it would get somewhat of it's own power.
Realisticly there should be far more then a 5 ma allowance for the coil. If not the coils would fail all the time from low voltage running or would quit working (not enought current to pull in relay)
My $.02 worth.
The write up on VQ was well written and the use of relays is a good idea (isolation of heavy loads) but for this mod (5ma) i don't think it's required.
Martin
I attached my buzzer red wire to the G/OR and the black to the OR wire.
All i did was parallel the buzzer with the relay coil. The added load of 5ma is minor.
There are 3 of the G/OR wires. The instructions say to use any one but i used the one that was connected directly to the coil (brown relay)
Which ones are the coil ? There are 4 contacts close togeather then there are 2 more wider spaced apart . I used the wider spaced set (follow the orange wires) the other wires goto the rear lights and connecting in with them will cause it to buzz when using the turn signals.
The only downside i can see would be the loudness of the buzzer. When it is in parallel with the coil it has to share the power with the coil. With the way it is wired on VQ it would get somewhat of it's own power.
Realisticly there should be far more then a 5 ma allowance for the coil. If not the coils would fail all the time from low voltage running or would quit working (not enought current to pull in relay)
My $.02 worth.
The write up on VQ was well written and the use of relays is a good idea (isolation of heavy loads) but for this mod (5ma) i don't think it's required.
Martin
#14
Thanks for this write up. I tried again last night to connect the relay into the system but without sodering wires to it, I was unsucessful. I don't have a sodering iron but tonight I'll try it without the relay and let you know how it went. Thanks for all the info/help guys!
Tom
Tom
Originally Posted by rcmarty
I just did this mod this weekend. I'm an electrician by trade and looked over the diagram several times wodering why a relay was reqiured.
I attached my buzzer red wire to the G/OR and the black to the OR wire.
All i did was parallel the buzzer with the relay coil. The added load of 5ma is minor.
There are 3 of the G/OR wires. The instructions say to use any one but i used the one that was connected directly to the coil (brown relay)
Which ones are the coil ? There are 4 contacts close togeather then there are 2 more wider spaced apart . I used the wider spaced set (follow the orange wires) the other wires goto the rear lights and connecting in with them will cause it to buzz when using the turn signals.
The only downside i can see would be the loudness of the buzzer. When it is in parallel with the coil it has to share the power with the coil. With the way it is wired on VQ it would get somewhat of it's own power.
Realisticly there should be far more then a 5 ma allowance for the coil. If not the coils would fail all the time from low voltage running or would quit working (not enought current to pull in relay)
My $.02 worth.
The write up on VQ was well written and the use of relays is a good idea (isolation of heavy loads) but for this mod (5ma) i don't think it's required.
Martin
I attached my buzzer red wire to the G/OR and the black to the OR wire.
All i did was parallel the buzzer with the relay coil. The added load of 5ma is minor.
There are 3 of the G/OR wires. The instructions say to use any one but i used the one that was connected directly to the coil (brown relay)
Which ones are the coil ? There are 4 contacts close togeather then there are 2 more wider spaced apart . I used the wider spaced set (follow the orange wires) the other wires goto the rear lights and connecting in with them will cause it to buzz when using the turn signals.
The only downside i can see would be the loudness of the buzzer. When it is in parallel with the coil it has to share the power with the coil. With the way it is wired on VQ it would get somewhat of it's own power.
Realisticly there should be far more then a 5 ma allowance for the coil. If not the coils would fail all the time from low voltage running or would quit working (not enought current to pull in relay)
My $.02 worth.
The write up on VQ was well written and the use of relays is a good idea (isolation of heavy loads) but for this mod (5ma) i don't think it's required.
Martin
#16
I tried the beeper before installing it to see how loud it was going to be. It sounded loud but once the trim was installed and the trunk closed it was alot quieter.
I'm thinking of locating mine under the hood up high (below vin # ?) to keep it from getting wet. I'm not sure how water resistant they are. As for the connection you would have to source the orange wire that goes to the rear assuming the control unit is in the dash. I believe but haven't confirmed that the relay uses a ground pulse to run the relay (12v + present all the time , then when a ground pulse is sent it completes the circuit and activates the relay) . Assuming this is true you would need to source 12 under the hood and the orange wire from the control box.
I'm not sure if mine is weak or not. To test i would take a long wire and attach it to the black of the buzzer then put the trim on and close the trunk then ground out the wire to make the buzzer go off. That would determine if the trunk being closed with the trim installed is causing the loudness issue or not. IMO it is the trim as a 5 ma load is very small. Worth a shot for the 10-20 min it will take.
Anyone know where the control module is for the relay ?
I'd like it under the hood because when i'm at home leaving the car i go away from the buzzer to enter the house.
Yet another $0.02 worth
I'm thinking of locating mine under the hood up high (below vin # ?) to keep it from getting wet. I'm not sure how water resistant they are. As for the connection you would have to source the orange wire that goes to the rear assuming the control unit is in the dash. I believe but haven't confirmed that the relay uses a ground pulse to run the relay (12v + present all the time , then when a ground pulse is sent it completes the circuit and activates the relay) . Assuming this is true you would need to source 12 under the hood and the orange wire from the control box.
I'm not sure if mine is weak or not. To test i would take a long wire and attach it to the black of the buzzer then put the trim on and close the trunk then ground out the wire to make the buzzer go off. That would determine if the trunk being closed with the trim installed is causing the loudness issue or not. IMO it is the trim as a 5 ma load is very small. Worth a shot for the 10-20 min it will take.
Anyone know where the control module is for the relay ?
I'd like it under the hood because when i'm at home leaving the car i go away from the buzzer to enter the house.
Yet another $0.02 worth
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