MikesChevelle

Its been a while since I have had a manual Maxima, and those were 4th gens.

Here is my question. I have to push the pedal all the way in to shift. I dont really have engagement until the last 20-30% of travel and sometimes if I dont push it all the way in I get a little grind going into a gear.

I am used to having engagement more towards the beginning of the travel, is this normal? Can it be adjusted? I was "told" the clutch is about 30k miles old on a car with 160k

george__

iTrader: (1)

If you mean 20-30% you mean REALLY high up yeah? Mine is like that too

OEM style clutch or aftermarket performance style clutch? I went latter and I have to sometimes double clutch to engage gears ><. The other car with the OEM style clutch occasionally has 3rd gear grind

Driving car's like going to the gym for leg day

MikesChevelle

No, like the first 60-70% is useless, I have to get to the bottom of the pedal travel

george__

iTrader: (1)

Isn't that how you engage the clutch? Push down until the pedal doesn't go down anymore then slowly lift leg up until it bites (which is really high)?

MikesChevelle

It bites really low to the floor, when pushing down, the first 60%ish does nothing. I would prefer the section of bite to be less close the the floor if that makes sense

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Check your clutch fluid. It might be low.

george__

iTrader: (1)

Would a performance clutch and flywheel??

maxipower

clutches are like brake linings..they wear out,,cars driving in daily city traffic kills brakes and clutches

Brudface

Yes the clutch pedal IS adjustable. Its a slight pain in the *** to get it right though. If you're pedal is only really engaging in the latter portion of pedal travel the stroke of the master cylinder piston should be lengthened.
get under there, take the pin out and loosen the clevis. Make sure its good by putting it all back together then take it all apart again if its good and tighten the stopper nut.

MikesChevelle

Got a visual write up for this, its above my pay grade

Brudface

No I don't. I can attempt to explain it a little better though hahaha.
IF you have access to the FSM a diagram is located on CL-5, which is clutch page 5.


So if you look at your clutch pedal from underneath the dash, now move the pedal with your hand. You'll be able to see the pedal moving a shaft that connects to your clutch master cylinder. Its up behind so you'll have to squeeze your head in there. There is a wrist pin that is held in by a cotter pin. Pull the cotter pin out.
Now sometimes to get the wrist pin out you'll have to unbind it from its home, push the clutch pedal and wriggle that sucker out. Now that shaft that is actually PART of the Clutch Master will be free from the pedal. On that shaft at the end where you just pulled the pin out is the clevis. Pull the shaft GENTLY free from the pedal ONLY way it will go is down, it does takes just a bit of patience. You now have access to the clevis. To loosen the clevis is to raise engagement and to tighten is drop it.


Now hook it back up(but no need to put the cotter pin in now). Test the clutch pedal just with the car on not driving. Check you engagement point. If it suits you, tighten the stopper nut (sometimes involves taking everything apart again depending on your tools at hand).
MAKE SURE you put the cotter pin back in place.

MikesChevelle

Awesome thanks a ton, In general is that clevis sensitive in its relation to the amount of travel change I would see?

Meaning do I have to loosen it a ton just to see a difference?

Brudface

Absolutely not. A couple millimeters should do you good. If you look at the length of the thread on the pistons end shaft its only about an inch or so. Like i said before though. Make sure its good before you put it all back together. If it isnt you'll have to do it all over again.

MikesChevelle

I am tackling it this weekend Thanks again