help
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 88
help
i managed to find out what the codes 03 04 and 05 04 were, but now can someone tell me where the knock sensor and the automatic transmission control unit are?
please and when such a problem arises, is it better to change the part or fix it?
please and when such a problem arises, is it better to change the part or fix it?
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,747
From: San Bruno, CA (SF Bay)
Knock sensor is under the intake manifold on the back of the engine by the header. Motorvate heres how to replace it. Its better to change the knock sensor, not to hard and not too expensive
Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 67
I keep this handy just for such occasions:
Once and for all: a bad knock sensor WILL NOT trip the check engine light, you must extract the codes from the ECU to determine if your sensor is (potentially) bad (code 0304). Some other hints as to a bad KS: poor acceleration below 3000 RPM (I was getting tired of being left behind at stoplights by Honda Civics).
If you don’t already own a Haynes or Chilton manual, get one. In addition to telling you how to extract the codes and locate the KS, there is a wealth of useful information for the do-it yourselfer. I am very cheap, but this an area well worth spending the $20 or so (I bought mine off of EBAY for $10 shipped).
The ECU is located behind the center console on the drivers side. It is accessible by removing the plastic cover panel right next to the gas pedal. The ECU is a metal box with a screw on the side covered by a piece of tape. Peal back the tape to get at the screw. With the ignition in the “On” position, turn the screw all the way clockwise, hold for at least 2 seconds, turn it all the way counterclockwise. Your CEL will now start flashing out any codes stored in the ECU. The codes are two digit numbers. The first number is signaled by long flashes, there will be a two second pause, and the second number will be indicated by a series of short flashes. Long-long-long-pause-short-short-short-short = 0304 (KS fault). There may be more than 1 code in the ECU, they will be flashed out sequentially and the whole sequence will repeat. To clear the codes from the ECU, follow this sequence: clockwise, hold, counterclockwise, hold, clockwise, hold, counterclockwise.
A good KS will measure ~550 k-Ohm resistance between the left pin of the KS and ground. You can check the resistance without removing the KS by following the harness to the connector. The connector has two pins, only one of them hooks up to the KS, so try them both. The act of whacking on the KS with your wrench can (temporarily) start it working again, so checking the KS once you removed it may not give you the bad reading you suspect. Hint: the connector is not the green one closest to the KS (1995-1996 models – most likely 1994-1999), it is a few inches closer to the front of the car. A heat shielded wire leads into the bottom of it and there are two wires coming out the top, one clear and one black.
Low cost knock sensor sources: The dealer will charge you $160 or so for the sensor. I purcahsed a Nissan OEM sensor off of EBAY for $90 shipped. I have seen them for as little as $80 and routinely for $100-$110. Search for both “Maxima knock” and “Nissan knock” to make sure you get all the possible matches. You can get a Bosch sensors for $115 shipped from http://www.nissanpartstore.com/nissan_knock_sensor.html I prefer OEM parts when possible and have no information on the Bosch.
Two good article on KS replacement:
http://www.skippynet.com/maxima/knocksensor.htm
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507
Modifications to the Skippynet method
The article suggest using a 14” (or longer) ¼” socket extension to reach the KS retaining bolt. I found that using a 9” extension made it much easier to get the u-joint onto the KS bolt. To save money, I used two 3/8” drive extensions with a 3/8 to ¼ adapter, a ¼” drive u-joint and a ¼” 12mm socket (most of which I already had). Skippynet suggest using a 12mm flex socket, but being cheap I used a separate socket and u-joint so that I would have a more useful general purpose tool left over than the 12mm flex socket (better yet, I borrowed the u-joint and saved another $8). A 3/8” u-joint is a slightly bigger animal and in my opinion would make it hard to get the socket onto the bolt. It was not at all difficult to loosen the bolt using this setup. I had also borrowed a 16” extension and found it very difficult to get the socket onto the bolt head (I gave up after about 2 minutes, so it probably could have been done).
Once the bolt was out, I used a magnetic pickup to retrieve it (and eliminate the possibility of dropping it into the engine cavity where as you will find out soon, is not a very friendly place). With the bolt removed, you can pull the knock sensor out of the cavity by the harness and replace it. Next, I put the bolt into the new KS and used a small piece of tape to hold it in place while I stuffed it back into the engine cavity (again to eliminate the chance of dropping it in there).
Now the difficult part: I don’t see how you can locate the bolt into the hole and get it started without stuffing your hand under the manifold (others have done it using a claw type pickup to position the bolt). If you have very large hands, you might try enlisting a girlfriend or your mom as others have done. I was able to get my hand in there and get the bolt hand tight, then it was just a matter of using the 9” extension/u-joint setup again to do the final tightening. Your hands will get cut up a little doing this, but no worse than I am used to with other auto repairs.
I was able to replace the KS in both cars in less than 1 hour including test drives using this method. The real key is using the skippynet socket extension method to crack the bolt loose. Once you have jammed your hand into the engine cavity you will realize how difficult it would have been to get a wrench on the bolt and loosen it.
Once and for all: a bad knock sensor WILL NOT trip the check engine light, you must extract the codes from the ECU to determine if your sensor is (potentially) bad (code 0304). Some other hints as to a bad KS: poor acceleration below 3000 RPM (I was getting tired of being left behind at stoplights by Honda Civics).
If you don’t already own a Haynes or Chilton manual, get one. In addition to telling you how to extract the codes and locate the KS, there is a wealth of useful information for the do-it yourselfer. I am very cheap, but this an area well worth spending the $20 or so (I bought mine off of EBAY for $10 shipped).
The ECU is located behind the center console on the drivers side. It is accessible by removing the plastic cover panel right next to the gas pedal. The ECU is a metal box with a screw on the side covered by a piece of tape. Peal back the tape to get at the screw. With the ignition in the “On” position, turn the screw all the way clockwise, hold for at least 2 seconds, turn it all the way counterclockwise. Your CEL will now start flashing out any codes stored in the ECU. The codes are two digit numbers. The first number is signaled by long flashes, there will be a two second pause, and the second number will be indicated by a series of short flashes. Long-long-long-pause-short-short-short-short = 0304 (KS fault). There may be more than 1 code in the ECU, they will be flashed out sequentially and the whole sequence will repeat. To clear the codes from the ECU, follow this sequence: clockwise, hold, counterclockwise, hold, clockwise, hold, counterclockwise.
A good KS will measure ~550 k-Ohm resistance between the left pin of the KS and ground. You can check the resistance without removing the KS by following the harness to the connector. The connector has two pins, only one of them hooks up to the KS, so try them both. The act of whacking on the KS with your wrench can (temporarily) start it working again, so checking the KS once you removed it may not give you the bad reading you suspect. Hint: the connector is not the green one closest to the KS (1995-1996 models – most likely 1994-1999), it is a few inches closer to the front of the car. A heat shielded wire leads into the bottom of it and there are two wires coming out the top, one clear and one black.
Low cost knock sensor sources: The dealer will charge you $160 or so for the sensor. I purcahsed a Nissan OEM sensor off of EBAY for $90 shipped. I have seen them for as little as $80 and routinely for $100-$110. Search for both “Maxima knock” and “Nissan knock” to make sure you get all the possible matches. You can get a Bosch sensors for $115 shipped from http://www.nissanpartstore.com/nissan_knock_sensor.html I prefer OEM parts when possible and have no information on the Bosch.
Two good article on KS replacement:
http://www.skippynet.com/maxima/knocksensor.htm
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507
Modifications to the Skippynet method
The article suggest using a 14” (or longer) ¼” socket extension to reach the KS retaining bolt. I found that using a 9” extension made it much easier to get the u-joint onto the KS bolt. To save money, I used two 3/8” drive extensions with a 3/8 to ¼ adapter, a ¼” drive u-joint and a ¼” 12mm socket (most of which I already had). Skippynet suggest using a 12mm flex socket, but being cheap I used a separate socket and u-joint so that I would have a more useful general purpose tool left over than the 12mm flex socket (better yet, I borrowed the u-joint and saved another $8). A 3/8” u-joint is a slightly bigger animal and in my opinion would make it hard to get the socket onto the bolt. It was not at all difficult to loosen the bolt using this setup. I had also borrowed a 16” extension and found it very difficult to get the socket onto the bolt head (I gave up after about 2 minutes, so it probably could have been done).
Once the bolt was out, I used a magnetic pickup to retrieve it (and eliminate the possibility of dropping it into the engine cavity where as you will find out soon, is not a very friendly place). With the bolt removed, you can pull the knock sensor out of the cavity by the harness and replace it. Next, I put the bolt into the new KS and used a small piece of tape to hold it in place while I stuffed it back into the engine cavity (again to eliminate the chance of dropping it in there).
Now the difficult part: I don’t see how you can locate the bolt into the hole and get it started without stuffing your hand under the manifold (others have done it using a claw type pickup to position the bolt). If you have very large hands, you might try enlisting a girlfriend or your mom as others have done. I was able to get my hand in there and get the bolt hand tight, then it was just a matter of using the 9” extension/u-joint setup again to do the final tightening. Your hands will get cut up a little doing this, but no worse than I am used to with other auto repairs.
I was able to replace the KS in both cars in less than 1 hour including test drives using this method. The real key is using the skippynet socket extension method to crack the bolt loose. Once you have jammed your hand into the engine cavity you will realize how difficult it would have been to get a wrench on the bolt and loosen it.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=104931
this was taken from third link on there
0504
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0504 points to a problem with the Automatic Transmission Communications line. Pulse signals are exchanged between the Engine Control Module and the Transmission Control Module to assure smooth shifting during hard acceleration or deceleration.
This malfunction is detected when the ECM continuously receives an incorrect voltage from the TCM. Possible causes include...
- Harness or connectors (The communications line circuit between the ECM and the TCM is open or shorted.)
- TCM
- Discharged or faulty battery
i think hte TCM is located near the auto tranny shifter behind hte trim peice
this was taken from third link on there
0504
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0504 points to a problem with the Automatic Transmission Communications line. Pulse signals are exchanged between the Engine Control Module and the Transmission Control Module to assure smooth shifting during hard acceleration or deceleration.
This malfunction is detected when the ECM continuously receives an incorrect voltage from the TCM. Possible causes include...
- Harness or connectors (The communications line circuit between the ECM and the TCM is open or shorted.)
- TCM
- Discharged or faulty battery
i think hte TCM is located near the auto tranny shifter behind hte trim peice
Originally Posted by kevlo911
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=104931
this was taken from third link on there
0504
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0504 points to a problem with the Automatic Transmission Communications line. Pulse signals are exchanged between the Engine Control Module and the Transmission Control Module to assure smooth shifting during hard acceleration or deceleration.
This malfunction is detected when the ECM continuously receives an incorrect voltage from the TCM. Possible causes include...
- Harness or connectors (The communications line circuit between the ECM and the TCM is open or shorted.)
- TCM
- Discharged or faulty battery
i think hte TCM is located near the auto tranny shifter behind hte trim peice
this was taken from third link on there
0504
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0504 points to a problem with the Automatic Transmission Communications line. Pulse signals are exchanged between the Engine Control Module and the Transmission Control Module to assure smooth shifting during hard acceleration or deceleration.
This malfunction is detected when the ECM continuously receives an incorrect voltage from the TCM. Possible causes include...
- Harness or connectors (The communications line circuit between the ECM and the TCM is open or shorted.)
- TCM
- Discharged or faulty battery
i think hte TCM is located near the auto tranny shifter behind hte trim peice
The guy there told me not to worry about it and I passed the test fine 
I go to my mechanic and he tells me this code (TCM to ECM prob) and fuel injection bank 1 and fuel injection bank 2.
Would the TCM-ECM prob cause the fuel injection bank 1 & 2 prob?
Every time I fix something, something else keeps popping up
Time to go back to the transmission rebuild place...
I remember one of them was T0170 (or 0706 according to manual) from the ECU reader thing Forgot the other one.
I would check it myself, but the plastic cover doesn't come off. It has 2 plastic bolts and when I use a plier or something to pull out the plastic bolts, they just bend and don't come out...
Forgot the other one.I would check it myself, but the plastic cover doesn't come off. It has 2 plastic bolts and when I use a plier or something to pull out the plastic bolts, they just bend and don't come out...
0705
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0705 points to a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control System.
This malfunction is detected when the EVAP control system has a leak or the EVAP control system does not operate properly. (EVAP = EVAPorative emissions.)
Possible causes include...
- incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve
- incorrect fuel filler cap
- fuel filler cap vent remains open or fails to close
- foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap
- a leak in the line between the intake manifold and the
EVAP Canister Vacuum Control Valve
- foreign matter caught in the EVAP CVCV
- leaks in the EVAP canister or fuel tank
- leaks in the EVAP purge line (pipe and rubber tube)
- EVAP purge line rubber tube bent
- blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor
- loose or disconnected rubber tube
- EVAP CVCV and circuit
- EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve and circuit
- absolute pressure sensor
- tank fuel temperature sensor
- MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve and circuit
- blocked or bent rubber tube to MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve
- O-ring of EVAP CVCV is missing or damaged
- water separator
- EVAP canister saturated with water
- EVAP control system pressure sensor
- refueling EVAP vapor cut valve
- ORVR system leaks
This is a "jackpot" DTC. It points to so many things you don't know what to check. It is often combined with another DTC which is more specific and therefore more helpful.
0114
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0114 indicates a problem with the fuel management system on the right cylinder bank. The right bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.
The Front Heated Oxygen Sensor for the right bank sent signals to the Engine Control Module indicating an excessively rich fuel mixture. The ECM attempted to correct this problem by directing the fuel injectors to supply less gasoline. Further signals from the Oxygen Sensor indicate that the attempt to correct the rich mixture condition was unsuccessful, and the fuel mixture continues to be too rich.
Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor
- Fuel injectors
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Lack of fuel
- Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor
Before tackling anything involving DTC 0114, I would bench test the EVAP CVCV first. It probably needs replacement. Then I would reset the ECU and see if the light comes back indicating you are still running rich on the rear cylinder bank. Most likely, the 0114 will be an Oxygen Sensor if replacing the EVAP CVCV didn't resolve everything..
0115
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0115 indicates a problem with the fuel management system on the right cylinder bank. The right bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.
The Front Heated Oxygen Sensor for the right bank sent signals to the Engine Control Module indicating an excessively lean fuel mixture. The ECM attempted to correct this problem by directing the fuel injectors to supply more gasoline. Further signals from the Oxygen Sensor indicate that the attempt to correct the lean mixture condition was unsuccessful, and the fuel mixture continues to be too lean.
Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor
- Fuel injectors
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Lack of fuel
- Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor
0210
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0210 points to a problem with the fuel injection system. When the engine management system is running in closed-loop mode the Engine Control Unit (the computer) makes continual adjustments to maintain the air-fuel ratio near the ideal point. To achieve this it relies on signals from many sensors including the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the Oxygen Sensors.
This malfunction is detected when the ECM finds that it cannot properly control the air/fuel mixture, and the mixture is too lean (too much air). DTC 0210 indicates this problem exists on the left bank (the front bank, cylinders 2, 4, and 6). Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Front Oxygen Sensor
- one or more fuel injectors on the front bank
- exhaust gas leaks
- incorrect fuel pressure
- lack of fuel
- Mass Air Flow Sensor
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0705 points to a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control System.
This malfunction is detected when the EVAP control system has a leak or the EVAP control system does not operate properly. (EVAP = EVAPorative emissions.)
Possible causes include...
- incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve
- incorrect fuel filler cap
- fuel filler cap vent remains open or fails to close
- foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap
- a leak in the line between the intake manifold and the
EVAP Canister Vacuum Control Valve
- foreign matter caught in the EVAP CVCV
- leaks in the EVAP canister or fuel tank
- leaks in the EVAP purge line (pipe and rubber tube)
- EVAP purge line rubber tube bent
- blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor
- loose or disconnected rubber tube
- EVAP CVCV and circuit
- EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve and circuit
- absolute pressure sensor
- tank fuel temperature sensor
- MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve and circuit
- blocked or bent rubber tube to MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve
- O-ring of EVAP CVCV is missing or damaged
- water separator
- EVAP canister saturated with water
- EVAP control system pressure sensor
- refueling EVAP vapor cut valve
- ORVR system leaks
This is a "jackpot" DTC. It points to so many things you don't know what to check. It is often combined with another DTC which is more specific and therefore more helpful.
0114
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0114 indicates a problem with the fuel management system on the right cylinder bank. The right bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.
The Front Heated Oxygen Sensor for the right bank sent signals to the Engine Control Module indicating an excessively rich fuel mixture. The ECM attempted to correct this problem by directing the fuel injectors to supply less gasoline. Further signals from the Oxygen Sensor indicate that the attempt to correct the rich mixture condition was unsuccessful, and the fuel mixture continues to be too rich.
Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor
- Fuel injectors
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Lack of fuel
- Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor
Before tackling anything involving DTC 0114, I would bench test the EVAP CVCV first. It probably needs replacement. Then I would reset the ECU and see if the light comes back indicating you are still running rich on the rear cylinder bank. Most likely, the 0114 will be an Oxygen Sensor if replacing the EVAP CVCV didn't resolve everything..
0115
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0115 indicates a problem with the fuel management system on the right cylinder bank. The right bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.
The Front Heated Oxygen Sensor for the right bank sent signals to the Engine Control Module indicating an excessively lean fuel mixture. The ECM attempted to correct this problem by directing the fuel injectors to supply more gasoline. Further signals from the Oxygen Sensor indicate that the attempt to correct the lean mixture condition was unsuccessful, and the fuel mixture continues to be too lean.
Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor
- Fuel injectors
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Lack of fuel
- Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor
0210
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0210 points to a problem with the fuel injection system. When the engine management system is running in closed-loop mode the Engine Control Unit (the computer) makes continual adjustments to maintain the air-fuel ratio near the ideal point. To achieve this it relies on signals from many sensors including the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the Oxygen Sensors.
This malfunction is detected when the ECM finds that it cannot properly control the air/fuel mixture, and the mixture is too lean (too much air). DTC 0210 indicates this problem exists on the left bank (the front bank, cylinders 2, 4, and 6). Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Front Oxygen Sensor
- one or more fuel injectors on the front bank
- exhaust gas leaks
- incorrect fuel pressure
- lack of fuel
- Mass Air Flow Sensor
