Help, Missfiring, need major help!!!
10-07-2003, 07:51 PM
#1
be the change u want2C
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Help, Missfiring, need major help!!!
Hey, I have a 99 GLE with about 52k miles on it. I just had my KS replaced and my Upstream o2 sensor at the dealer. My SEL was comming on so I took it in, I thought they would have fixed it but they havent, its still missfiring, It feels like my car has no power at all. I just put my intake back on too. It sounds like POK POK POK really fast and loud. I had new sparkplugs put in about 5k ago, there NGK R Laser Platinums so I dont think its that,
Before I took it in to the dealer I did a Diagnostic and it said Cyl 1 Missfire, I just Gaped my cyl 1 plug to about to .45 to see if it will fix but it didnt, My ignition boots look good still, WHat could it be?
Before I took it in to the dealer I did a Diagnostic and it said Cyl 1 Missfire, I just Gaped my cyl 1 plug to about to .45 to see if it will fix but it didnt, My ignition boots look good still, WHat could it be?
10-07-2003, 08:00 PM
#2
take it back to the dealer they didnt fix the problem , its their fault but one thing you might want to try is to put a spark plug on the coil and crank the engine. If you see spark you know its not the coil. Also the puk puk puk... are you sure thats not a valve tap ?
10-08-2003, 06:35 AM
#7
Originally Posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
thanx, but I still need more opinions or things to do, It driving me crasy, Ive spent too much money on this problem already and Im getting tired of it!!!
10-08-2003, 06:43 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 380
Do you get the code all the time? I got a #4 misfire code only once in three days before I checked the fuel injector and found it was pretty much dead (8k ohms). I replaced the injector, problem solved.
But here's a question, how does the ecu detect a misfire? Is it from the coil or is it from an internal sensor in the engine? How?
I hope you don't have a bad injector in #1, cuz that is a b!tch to replace (or expensive if you bring it in)
But here's a question, how does the ecu detect a misfire? Is it from the coil or is it from an internal sensor in the engine? How?
I hope you don't have a bad injector in #1, cuz that is a b!tch to replace (or expensive if you bring it in)
10-08-2003, 07:39 AM
#11
Originally Posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
Hey Ejj, how much does each ignition coil cost?
10-08-2003, 07:47 AM
#12
Ignition coils from the dealer are around $120, IIRC.
If I were you I would search posts for someone that is parting out their wrecked Max. Or check the for sale section, there may be someone in there willing to sell.
If I were you I would search posts for someone that is parting out their wrecked Max. Or check the for sale section, there may be someone in there willing to sell.
10-08-2003, 08:51 AM
#13
be the change u want2C
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Yes!!! Warranty comes into play again, Im gonna go to my freinds house right now and do the switch thing after I do the self Diagnosis. Ill post again when I finish with everything. Still need more suggestions on what it could be though. Can one of my pistons be broken or something like that?
10-08-2003, 10:58 AM
#14
I would have thought it would be either electrical or fuel...
...if you think it could be a piston though you could always do a compression check, I suppose? That would hopefully be the last test you do...It would be the scariest of answers.lol
...if you think it could be a piston though you could always do a compression check, I suppose? That would hopefully be the last test you do...It would be the scariest of answers.lol
10-08-2003, 11:01 AM
#15
Originally Posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
Still need more suggestions on what it could be though. Can one of my pistons be broken or something like that?
I'd be 99% sure it was a coil pack if I were you.
Has your CEL ever flashed...or is it just on?
10-08-2003, 12:59 PM
#16
Like I said, do the coil swap to see if it's the coil pack. If it is, then try getting a used one (ask in the Classified section) for around $50. If you have the $100 deductable, go to a Nissan dealer and tell them to fix it with new OEM parts.
10-08-2003, 10:27 PM
#18
Do that coil swap and if it is not the coil, then it is most likely the injector which will suck for you. A while back I took mine in because of a misfire, they told me that it was my cooling system and that if I get my radiator and all the leaking hose fixed it should solve the problem. I repeatedly asked them to check my fuel system but they said there is no need. It turned out to be the #3 injector which I had to find out and change for myself.
10-09-2003, 05:18 AM
#19
Originally Posted by 2naboy
Do that coil swap and if it is not the coil, then it is most likely the injector which will suck for you. A while back I took mine in because of a misfire, they told me that it was my cooling system and that if I get my radiator and all the leaking hose fixed it should solve the problem. I repeatedly asked them to check my fuel system but they said there is no need. It turned out to be the #3 injector which I had to find out and change for myself.
10-09-2003, 05:39 AM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 380
The front three injectors are cake, releive the fuel pressure, undo 2 screws and pull out the injector.
The back three is a different story, you have to take off the whole intake manifold. Its a b!tch to reach the bolts on the back of the engine.
One upside is that you can clean the manifold and throttle body really good and you can polish up the manifold runners so your engine looks nice.
The back three is a different story, you have to take off the whole intake manifold. Its a b!tch to reach the bolts on the back of the engine.
One upside is that you can clean the manifold and throttle body really good and you can polish up the manifold runners so your engine looks nice.
10-09-2003, 09:29 AM
#22
I your engine is misfiring its usually one of two things, the coil or the inject but if you are unlucky like me, you can blow a cylinder which can be anything from a dead piston to a snapped rod you can usually tell this because you will probably be burning oil.
The rear injectors are very difficult to change figure in about 4 hours for your first time and after that 1.5 to 2 hours. I did not bother putting those two bolts at back and the intake still held up. I've had to do this three time, once for my ported/polished lower and upper intake and the other two times for injectors.
The rear injectors are very difficult to change figure in about 4 hours for your first time and after that 1.5 to 2 hours. I did not bother putting those two bolts at back and the intake still held up. I've had to do this three time, once for my ported/polished lower and upper intake and the other two times for injectors.
10-09-2003, 10:01 AM
#23
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 34
also misfiring among others
Guys I have a very similar problem. My 99 GXE maxima has 93,000 miles on it and here is my situation. I have been getting check engine codes for a while, so last week I decided to change plugs with NGK coppers(they had never been replaced and I thought maybe it was that) and I cleared the codes. Well about 5 days later they came back, so I checked my codes today by reading the pulses and I am throwing a 0201, a 0304, and a 0607.
One is my knock sensor, and I read the sticky about checking it but I do not have an ohm meter. Are they expensive and where can I get one? Also how much does it cost to replace one of these?
I was also going to take your guys advice and swap coil packs, and if the one throws a cel on the cyclinder I put it in basically it is shot and time for a replacement right?
How bad is it to be driving around with a car like this? I mean can I drive it to work still or no?
Also can you guys give me any other suggestions on what I should look for in my situtation?
Thanks in advance
One is my knock sensor, and I read the sticky about checking it but I do not have an ohm meter. Are they expensive and where can I get one? Also how much does it cost to replace one of these?
I was also going to take your guys advice and swap coil packs, and if the one throws a cel on the cyclinder I put it in basically it is shot and time for a replacement right?
How bad is it to be driving around with a car like this? I mean can I drive it to work still or no?
Also can you guys give me any other suggestions on what I should look for in my situtation?
Thanks in advance
10-09-2003, 12:09 PM
#24
Originally Posted by JonGordo8
Guys I have a very similar problem. My 99 GXE maxima has 93,000 miles on it and here is my situation. I have been getting check engine codes for a while, so last week I decided to change plugs with NGK coppers(they had never been replaced and I thought maybe it was that) and I cleared the codes. Well about 5 days later they came back, so I checked my codes today by reading the pulses and I am throwing a 0201, a 0304, and a 0607.
One is my knock sensor, and I read the sticky about checking it but I do not have an ohm meter. Are they expensive and where can I get one? Also how much does it cost to replace one of these?
I was also going to take your guys advice and swap coil packs, and if the one throws a cel on the cyclinder I put it in basically it is shot and time for a replacement right?
How bad is it to be driving around with a car like this? I mean can I drive it to work still or no?
Also can you guys give me any other suggestions on what I should look for in my situtation?
Thanks in advance
One is my knock sensor, and I read the sticky about checking it but I do not have an ohm meter. Are they expensive and where can I get one? Also how much does it cost to replace one of these?
I was also going to take your guys advice and swap coil packs, and if the one throws a cel on the cyclinder I put it in basically it is shot and time for a replacement right?
How bad is it to be driving around with a car like this? I mean can I drive it to work still or no?
Also can you guys give me any other suggestions on what I should look for in my situtation?
Thanks in advance
I go to Hoffman once in a while to visit my aunt.First make sure that the spark plug you put in had the correct gap (take it out and check). Then switch the coil pack with the one next to it.
Don't worry about the KS (knock sensor). It's giving you a KS code b/c of the misfire. Fix the other 2 things and reset your ECU. Check again in a few days after you fix the other 2 things to see if it'll gives you a KS code (it's a ghost code so it will NOT turn on the CEL).
You can still drive around, but your gas mileage will go down or something.
10-17-2003, 02:53 PM
#25
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 34
ok here is the update....I just went and checked the codes and I got a 0304 and a 0201, but not a misfire. I switched the front middle with the front left coil packs. The front left was the one giving me problems, right? So than I tried to clear the codes and drive it around til it went on, but now the check engine light blinks, and it blinks a little faster if I am going faster. Did I just not clear the code right or is this a certain type of service engine soon light?
10-17-2003, 02:57 PM
#26
Originally Posted by JonGordo8
ok here is the update....I just went and checked the codes and I got a 0304 and a 0201, but not a misfire. I switched the front middle with the front left coil packs. The front left was the one giving me problems, right? So than I tried to clear the codes and drive it around til it went on, but now the check engine light blinks, and it blinks a little faster if I am going faster. Did I just not clear the code right or is this a certain type of service engine soon light?
10-17-2003, 04:43 PM
#27
be the change u want2C
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I just got my injector changed, I got the power back, but sometimes when I punch it it still feels like its bad and then SES light starts flashing, And now its on again. Who knows where to get cheap coils from?
10-17-2003, 05:19 PM
#28
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 34
I found new coils for a good price from this place:
new coils
also I don't think anything was terribly wrong, since the car was running fine and all. Now it is gone and the SES light hasn't came back on, so I must have reset it. I know it will come back within the next few days, but now I don't know what I should do to get it fixed.
new coils
also I don't think anything was terribly wrong, since the car was running fine and all. Now it is gone and the SES light hasn't came back on, so I must have reset it. I know it will come back within the next few days, but now I don't know what I should do to get it fixed.
10-17-2003, 05:32 PM
#29
Originally Posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
I just got my injector changed, I got the power back, but sometimes when I punch it it still feels like its bad and then SES light starts flashing, And now its on again. Who knows where to get cheap coils from?
10-17-2003, 05:44 PM
#30
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10-17-2003, 06:16 PM
#31
Thanks guys!!! These threads are SOOOOO! helpful. I thought I was the only one with this problem. My car was driving today like POP-mobile.. I was so mad and frustrated. It did not trick the CEL though so I will check for codes tomorrow morning, if it stops raining.
When I changed my sparks with new NGK Coppers I saw two things presumably bad with my coils. Coil #2 looked kinda burned and coil #3 was in oil????!!!! So I am pretty much suspecious that coil #2 is the problem but I am very disturbed about the one in the oil, Do I have a bad valve gasket???? (I never ever added oil yet, level looks always fine)..
I'll post later what I found out and and what steps I took to resolve the problem.
When I changed my sparks with new NGK Coppers I saw two things presumably bad with my coils. Coil #2 looked kinda burned and coil #3 was in oil????!!!! So I am pretty much suspecious that coil #2 is the problem but I am very disturbed about the one in the oil, Do I have a bad valve gasket???? (I never ever added oil yet, level looks always fine)..
I'll post later what I found out and and what steps I took to resolve the problem.
10-17-2003, 06:24 PM
#32
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If you guys are down a cylinder due to a blown coil, be veeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeerrrryyyy easy on the engine. Running on 5-cylinders throws the balance way the heck out of whack (a 60-degree V-6 is naturally balanced, but not a "V-5" 
) so just try to be as gentle as possible. Get a new coil if that's what it is ASAP. They're really easy to change out yourself so please don't go in for a "lube job" at the stealership. 
If you need to rent a car for a few days, you'll still be ahead compared to what Nissan will charge you. A buddy of mine said Nissan charged him $300 just to replace a single ignition coil on their 4th Gen Max. It happened to quick on them so no lead time to diagnos and order parts in advance.
I have two spare coils now (one front and one rear) just in case they go out again since they're known to be troublesome, particularly on 99's.
) so just try to be as gentle as possible. Get a new coil if that's what it is ASAP. They're really easy to change out yourself so please don't go in for a "lube job" at the stealership. If you need to rent a car for a few days, you'll still be ahead compared to what Nissan will charge you. A buddy of mine said Nissan charged him $300 just to replace a single ignition coil on their 4th Gen Max. It happened to quick on them so no lead time to diagnos and order parts in advance.
I have two spare coils now (one front and one rear) just in case they go out again since they're known to be troublesome, particularly on 99's.
10-17-2003, 10:31 PM
#33
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 34
steve who is this daveB fellow you guys were referring to in your thread? How much does he sell a front bank coil pack for?
Also, did you ever discover what the reason for your 0304 code was? It doesn't set your SES light on though, it is a ghost code right?
Thanks for the advice from everyone, you guys have seriously saved me probably a couple hundred dollars easy if I would have had to take it to the dealer.
Also, did you ever discover what the reason for your 0304 code was? It doesn't set your SES light on though, it is a ghost code right?
Thanks for the advice from everyone, you guys have seriously saved me probably a couple hundred dollars easy if I would have had to take it to the dealer.
10-18-2003, 06:00 AM
#34
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=234805 2nd post 
0304 is the knock sensor code. It is a ghost code, but it usually shows up when something else is wrong. Fix the other problem first and if the 0304 comes back then replace the KS.
0304 is the knock sensor code. It is a ghost code, but it usually shows up when something else is wrong. Fix the other problem first and if the 0304 comes back then replace the KS.
10-18-2003, 01:12 PM
#35
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 34
ok I went ahead and bought a new coil pack from the dealer (71.92) and installed it and cleared the computer. After driving around for 20-30 minutes It feels much better and no codes came back, so I am hoping that this fixes it. Thanks again guys.
10-18-2003, 05:52 PM
#36
I did the resistance check this morning on the coil pack I suspected went bed and it appeared to be pretty much dead. So ordered one and expect to replace on Thursday. The Haynes manual describes well how to do that check with Multi purpose meter.
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