Went to check my codes for a possible knock sensor ghost code and realized that the last time I did the diagnostic test I left the screw turned the wrong way It was all the way clockwise.


Here is the good part. For the last few months (since the last time I pulled my codes) my IACV has been ticking constantly. Even when the engine is off. If I had the key turned to "on" the IACV would tick, tick, tick, tick, tick......

Once I put the screw back to counter-clockwise the ticking stoped and my idle is improved.

I wonder what other problems may have been caused by my screw being left in the wrong postition. Maybe my car now has 50 more hp Seriously, I wonder if that is bad on the car. Any insight?

 

i did that on my car but it was only for a day and i realized it because my idle was all wierd. it was droping to 300 and almost staling.but once i turned the screw back it stoped.

 

i BROKE my ECU

 

that does not sound good

 

Mike =

Should be okay. Review the FSM.

 

Hmmm... I've noticed that ever since I did a diagnostic for hidden codes, my idle has been way lower than before. It used to be at about 725-750. Now it is at about 525-550.

I have a 5-spd and 525-550 is a better idle... so I never bothered. But I guess I should check my screw on my ECU to see whether or not it is completely turned to the left (that should be the resting spot, right?)

 

I'd be wary of a really low idle. Oil pressure might get too low?

 

525 is an awfully low idle. I get shudder when it's that low. 625 is what the FSM says for a 5-speed I believe. Anything below 600 and my car shakes.

fully counter-clock wise is the correct spot.

 

 

allright... time to check my screw....

 

I had the same problem as you did, I went and checked the ECU screw and it was turned almost fully clockwise!

I turned the screw fully counter-clockwise and turned it over, now the car idles better than it ever has.

No more dropping to 350~400 rpms after I rev the engine its now like 500~550 at most. But it still drops more than my 98 automatic does, I think its the Stillen flywheel thats causing it. I wouldnt know how it was before the flywheel because I bought the car with it already installed.

 

700rpm is for 5spd in neutral. When I did that, I do it to erase the codes(start car when all the way clockwise and then turn it CC while the car is running). When I did that the car ran like **** and the idle was terrible. I really doubt it did anything. What you should worry about is when you disconnect the KS from the harness and the car runs exactly the same as with it plugged in. I just did that, very ****ing annoying...

 

I'm assuming that you you turn the screw fully counter clockwise with the key in the ignition and to the ON position. Correct?

 

yes read what I wrote...

 

OMG are u the guy that was asking how to pull the ecu codes?
There was a guy before who said he was trying to pull ecu codes shoved a screwdriver in ands turned it busting the reset ****. Was that you?
My deepest condolences.

 

yep 12233456

 

yep, sometimes i am not the sharpest tool in the shed. I even started two threads about why my IACV was ticking like that

I wonder why having the screw in the wrong position made my IACV open and close constantly all the time????

 

I noticed that when I didn't have the screw in the right position, the check light would not go out. When I looked closer, the screw had to be lined up perfectly with the marking but I didn't experience any noises from the engine bay.

 

When you leave the ECU diagnostic screw all the way clockwise the ECU stays in diagnostic mode. You CEL should flash intermittently depending on fuel mixture. There is a procedure in the repair manual for using this method to determine if you are running lean or rich.

I never could figure it out.

 

Hmmm....never flashed at me.

 

-may be you can scan and post those pages? I'd like to know this.

 

My low idle started to happen after I did a diagnostic. But I'm sure I followed the directions in the FSM to a tee. I have nothing flashing at me... just a lower idle which I didn't have much of a problem with.

I have to recheck that screw in lieu of this thread. Maybe there's power I'm missing and don't even know it.... and I've been blaming it on the MEVI all along? lol

 

10 char

 

sweet! I had this problem after I checked my codes (bad gas tripped my Knock and both O2 sensors - I hope.) Sure enough, I had the screw in the wrong place. Gotta love this forum!

 

Take it easy when checking the ECU...don't force the screw or it will break. Just ease it lightly and make sure you get right in there to not strip or screw up the mechanism.. Just my 2 cents to people who never checked the ECU before.

 

and it is EASY to do... (mess it up that is...)