ALL Mechanics Please HELP, Intake Back fires, Vacume leaking, Other Problems
10-28-2003, 01:41 PM
#1
ALL Mechanics Please HELP, Intake Back fires, Vacume leaking, Other Problems
Hi. Today i Need Help from 4th Gens Best Mechanics.
OK, today i took off my EGR and cleaned it. I had a little trouble removing the top tube witch goes to the EGR control Backpressure transducer. (its ok though)
OK, i cleaned it w/ TB cleaner and Then Reinstalled the Part.
All metal hoses were reconnected + the 2 other 12mm bolts.
Now I've had a little vacume leak i could hear the past... for a while.
BUT TODAY since i put this part back on I SOUND like BOOst! It Sounds like I keep Blowing Air OFF VERY LOUD and VERY FAST. So as any would say its a Vacume leak. Ah ok. So i got my TB cleaner and Sprayed the hose's. I may have found it B/c the Hiss kinda Stops and acceleration INcreases and the Intake isnt Backfiring IN my FACE!. Ok, This TUBE i focused my sprayin on ,it is the 1 Which connects to the Underside OF the ThrottleBODY to wrap around the EGR controls and goes INTO the block, Right Next to the EGR temp sensor w/the 1 wire attaching it.
Now my INTAKE is backfiring everytime i come to a stop. The ECU has gave no CODE's except a 0401 (intake air temp sensor). I had this ECU error when i first installed my intake too. Now this??
YES, i said my INTAKE IS backfiring? OUCH Yeah!
ALSO: when my ignition key is just turned forward this click-click-click-click is comin from my engin bay, OK so i diconected the IAC valve and the tick-tick -tick Stops..........BUT IT TEST's 32 Ohms resistance between Every Terminal.. What now? Me or the IAC?
Problem: Dealership &4 Local Auto stores DONT sell this tube size, it's obvioulsy a vacume hose too.
Dealership has No Openings till Nov 7 to work on my car.
Dealership will still have no idea of how to fix it and charge me $90.00
Solution: Fly 'njselted' to st.louis MO to work on my car
$Worth the money$
Thoughts: I keep telling myself it's something obvious, But guys im seening 'H' emblems in the future or something.. This car's really been an azz to me latley and i need everyones help. I've cleaned so much and put so much time into this and im still stuck with it runnin like this.
Recently Fixed: , ECTS, KS, ALL O2 sensors, Most vacume hoses, fuel fiter, Intake Manifold removed w/tb for cleaning.
Please guys and help is appreciated. thanks, mwest
OK, today i took off my EGR and cleaned it. I had a little trouble removing the top tube witch goes to the EGR control Backpressure transducer. (its ok though)
OK, i cleaned it w/ TB cleaner and Then Reinstalled the Part.
All metal hoses were reconnected + the 2 other 12mm bolts.
Now I've had a little vacume leak i could hear the past... for a while.
BUT TODAY since i put this part back on I SOUND like BOOst! It Sounds like I keep Blowing Air OFF VERY LOUD and VERY FAST. So as any would say its a Vacume leak. Ah ok. So i got my TB cleaner and Sprayed the hose's. I may have found it B/c the Hiss kinda Stops and acceleration INcreases and the Intake isnt Backfiring IN my FACE!. Ok, This TUBE i focused my sprayin on ,it is the 1 Which connects to the Underside OF the ThrottleBODY to wrap around the EGR controls and goes INTO the block, Right Next to the EGR temp sensor w/the 1 wire attaching it.
Now my INTAKE is backfiring everytime i come to a stop. The ECU has gave no CODE's except a 0401 (intake air temp sensor). I had this ECU error when i first installed my intake too. Now this??
YES, i said my INTAKE IS backfiring? OUCH Yeah!
ALSO: when my ignition key is just turned forward this click-click-click-click is comin from my engin bay, OK so i diconected the IAC valve and the tick-tick -tick Stops..........BUT IT TEST's 32 Ohms resistance between Every Terminal.. What now? Me or the IAC?
Problem: Dealership &4 Local Auto stores DONT sell this tube size, it's obvioulsy a vacume hose too.
Dealership has No Openings till Nov 7 to work on my car.
Dealership will still have no idea of how to fix it and charge me $90.00
Solution: Fly 'njselted' to st.louis MO to work on my car
$Worth the money$Thoughts: I keep telling myself it's something obvious, But guys im seening 'H' emblems in the future or something.. This car's really been an azz to me latley and i need everyones help. I've cleaned so much and put so much time into this and im still stuck with it runnin like this.
Recently Fixed: , ECTS, KS, ALL O2 sensors, Most vacume hoses, fuel fiter, Intake Manifold removed w/tb for cleaning.
Please guys and help is appreciated. thanks, mwest
na actually i didnt yet, but since im stuck at home now with 2 smokes and im quite frustraed so the ducking it what i think ill go try for now.. 
10-28-2003, 02:20 PM
#5
No i didnt take off the Manifold . I did take it off like 6 months ago when i was tryin to fix a rough idle problem.
My car doesnt even Idle, It goes from 700rpms to 1400rpms In a Loop cycle. doesnt stop unless in gear then trans overtakes it and its at 1000rpms.
My car doesnt even Idle, It goes from 700rpms to 1400rpms In a Loop cycle. doesnt stop unless in gear then trans overtakes it and its at 1000rpms.
10-28-2003, 09:10 PM
#6
UPDATE.
I tested the EGR and EGR valve selonoid with a vacume tester. They both held pressure well and met specs via Haynes Manual.
Any other ideas guys.
Njseltd is ur around any helps appreciated. thanks.
I tested the EGR and EGR valve selonoid with a vacume tester. They both held pressure well and met specs via Haynes Manual.
Any other ideas guys.
Njseltd is ur around any helps appreciated. thanks.
10-28-2003, 10:53 PM
#7
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 8
Hey Bob,
Sorry to hear about all the issues...I know that shat can be terribly frustrating. I am NOT a Pro Mechanic, but I do know some stuff about our cars. So, these are just ideas of potential culprits...when you took off your intake manifold-how did you remove the gasket? If you scrapped it off with something other than a gasket scraper, you may have gouged your intake plenum a little bit. Don't know if this would be a huge issue, but depending on if/how badly it was scraped, it could obviously cause a vacuum leak. If that's the case, it would be a bad thing. You said you recently had all/most of the vacuum hoses replaced...I'd go through and check every single connection point on all your hoses and see if there's any leak there. Just some ideas...hope you find out the source of the problem
BK
Sorry to hear about all the issues...I know that shat can be terribly frustrating. I am NOT a Pro Mechanic, but I do know some stuff about our cars. So, these are just ideas of potential culprits...when you took off your intake manifold-how did you remove the gasket? If you scrapped it off with something other than a gasket scraper, you may have gouged your intake plenum a little bit. Don't know if this would be a huge issue, but depending on if/how badly it was scraped, it could obviously cause a vacuum leak. If that's the case, it would be a bad thing. You said you recently had all/most of the vacuum hoses replaced...I'd go through and check every single connection point on all your hoses and see if there's any leak there. Just some ideas...hope you find out the source of the problem
BK
10-29-2003, 04:23 AM
#8
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Originally Posted by bobjohnson
Njseltd is ur around any helps appreciated. thanks.
The EGR should only operate when the car is up to operating temp and your crusing down the highway at moderate throttle.
Disconnect and plug all the vacuum lines to the EGR system and see if your car idles properly. If it does, refer to the Haynes manual for proper vacuum hose routing when you put it back together.
The Tic Tic Tic Tic Tic from your IAC valve when the key is on is normal.
10-29-2003, 02:18 PM
#9
bkburg > Thanks for the ideas but i never scraped my seal between the Manifold when i removed it 6 months ago. I did use a liquid sealer inbetween them though to help form a seal.
Well Im happy my IAC is ok then.
UPDATE 4 TODAY: wendesday...
Ok i Re-moved the EGR again. Re-cleaned it entirely then Applied a Sealer (Silicone Sealant from Dealer 23.00 a tube crap)
Re-installed Everything Perfect, Exactly back to Normal.
Still the Car wont stay Idiling at all. It shakes , stutters and makes the pishhhhh sound still.
Note: I did feal around while it was running and playing with the throttle to try and find the air leak but still no luck at all. ???? someone please help, honda's callin me....
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
Is it possibly you have 2 vacuum lines reversed and the EGR is staying open when it really should be closed?
The EGR should only operate when the car is up to operating temp and your crusing down the highway at moderate throttle.
Disconnect and plug all the vacuum lines to the EGR system and see if your car idles properly. If it does, refer to the Haynes manual for proper vacuum hose routing when you put it back together.
The Tic Tic Tic Tic Tic from your IAC valve when the key is on is normal.
The EGR should only operate when the car is up to operating temp and your crusing down the highway at moderate throttle.
Disconnect and plug all the vacuum lines to the EGR system and see if your car idles properly. If it does, refer to the Haynes manual for proper vacuum hose routing when you put it back together.
The Tic Tic Tic Tic Tic from your IAC valve when the key is on is normal.
UPDATE 4 TODAY: wendesday...
Ok i Re-moved the EGR again. Re-cleaned it entirely then Applied a Sealer (Silicone Sealant from Dealer 23.00 a tube crap)
Re-installed Everything Perfect, Exactly back to Normal.
Still the Car wont stay Idiling at all. It shakes , stutters and makes the pishhhhh sound still.
Note: I did feal around while it was running and playing with the throttle to try and find the air leak but still no luck at all. ???? someone please help, honda's callin me....
10-30-2003, 02:58 PM
#11
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
You must replace all gaskets when you remove the intake manifold, throttle body, IAC, EGR tube (where is connects to the manifold), etc. Why are you using a liquid gasket?
How did you tighten the intake manifold, throttle body, IAC, and EGR tube bolts? Did you use factory torque specs and bolt patterns? It's very important to do all this the right way or else you may get a leak.
The sputtering and back firing could definately be a vacuum problem. You really need to invest $25 in a vacuum gauge like the Mity Vac or something because you need to see if you have a vacuum problem.
Are you sure there aren't any loose connections in the intake after the MAF?
There's so much stuff that can go wrong when you pull off and intake manifold.
Dave
How did you tighten the intake manifold, throttle body, IAC, and EGR tube bolts? Did you use factory torque specs and bolt patterns? It's very important to do all this the right way or else you may get a leak.
The sputtering and back firing could definately be a vacuum problem. You really need to invest $25 in a vacuum gauge like the Mity Vac or something because you need to see if you have a vacuum problem.
Are you sure there aren't any loose connections in the intake after the MAF?
There's so much stuff that can go wrong when you pull off and intake manifold.
Dave
10-30-2003, 03:28 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Dave B
You must replace all gaskets when you remove the intake manifold, throttle body, IAC, EGR tube (where is connects to the manifold), etc. Why are you using a liquid gasket?
How did you tighten the intake manifold, throttle body, IAC, and EGR tube bolts? Did you use factory torque specs and bolt patterns? It's very important to do all this the right way or else you may get a leak.
The sputtering and back firing could definately be a vacuum problem. You really need to invest $25 in a vacuum gauge like the Mity Vac or something because you need to see if you have a vacuum problem.
Are you sure there aren't any loose connections in the intake after the MAF?
There's so much stuff that can go wrong when you pull off and intake manifold.
Dave
How did you tighten the intake manifold, throttle body, IAC, and EGR tube bolts? Did you use factory torque specs and bolt patterns? It's very important to do all this the right way or else you may get a leak.
The sputtering and back firing could definately be a vacuum problem. You really need to invest $25 in a vacuum gauge like the Mity Vac or something because you need to see if you have a vacuum problem.
Are you sure there aren't any loose connections in the intake after the MAF?
There's so much stuff that can go wrong when you pull off and intake manifold.
Dave
Ok the intake maniflod and all that i took off a WHILE ago. I never had any prob's at all after i cleaned it throughly.not for 6-8 months neway.
I used the Liquid Sealant on the EGR to make sure the seal was GOOD GOOD. I used the OEM nissan Oil pan Silicone gasket sealer for the EGR.
I did buy a Vacume pump and tested the EGR , it held 10inches of pressure for 5 minutes, and all vacume's worked with the EGR control seloniod as well. Eveything's been testin fine but what to do now?
Ive felt for the Air _pishhhhhh leak everywhree But i CAN'T find it for the life of me at all. I can keep it started if i play with the throttle control and feal around for leaks. I also got hella smoke in there and turned it on to see if smoke was blowin newhere, (this tech was tried using tobacco smoke in a larger pipe ), then i pushed the smoke in there and it stayed still..no air movin newhere, no pull of air anywhere. I went to this resort BC ive torn the whole intake and egr **** off looking for my problems like 4 times now.
Dave thanks for ur help . mike west
10-31-2003, 06:53 AM
#14
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally Posted by bobjohnson
Hey thanks dave, ive been hoping ud join me in this...
Ok the intake maniflod and all that i took off a WHILE ago. I never had any prob's at all after i cleaned it throughly.not for 6-8 months neway.
I used the Liquid Sealant on the EGR to make sure the seal was GOOD GOOD. I used the OEM nissan Oil pan Silicone gasket sealer for the EGR.
I did buy a Vacume pump and tested the EGR , it held 10inches of pressure for 5 minutes, and all vacume's worked with the EGR control seloniod as well. Eveything's been testin fine but what to do now?
Ive felt for the Air _pishhhhhh leak everywhree But i CAN'T find it for the life of me at all. I can keep it started if i play with the throttle control and feal around for leaks. I also got hella smoke in there and turned it on to see if smoke was blowin newhere, (this tech was tried using tobacco smoke in a larger pipe ), then i pushed the smoke in there and it stayed still..no air movin newhere, no pull of air anywhere. I went to this resort BC ive torn the whole intake and egr **** off looking for my problems like 4 times now.
Dave thanks for ur help . mike west
Ok the intake maniflod and all that i took off a WHILE ago. I never had any prob's at all after i cleaned it throughly.not for 6-8 months neway.
I used the Liquid Sealant on the EGR to make sure the seal was GOOD GOOD. I used the OEM nissan Oil pan Silicone gasket sealer for the EGR.
I did buy a Vacume pump and tested the EGR , it held 10inches of pressure for 5 minutes, and all vacume's worked with the EGR control seloniod as well. Eveything's been testin fine but what to do now?
Ive felt for the Air _pishhhhhh leak everywhree But i CAN'T find it for the life of me at all. I can keep it started if i play with the throttle control and feal around for leaks. I also got hella smoke in there and turned it on to see if smoke was blowin newhere, (this tech was tried using tobacco smoke in a larger pipe ), then i pushed the smoke in there and it stayed still..no air movin newhere, no pull of air anywhere. I went to this resort BC ive torn the whole intake and egr **** off looking for my problems like 4 times now.
Dave thanks for ur help . mike west
The liquid sealant you used on the EGR won't work because that sealant isn't made for the extreme heat of the EGR gases. The EGR gases can approach 900 degrees because they're funneled off the rear exhaust manifold.
Doing an internal smoke test won't do much because the engine creates vacuum (ie it pulls air in, not pushes it out) under idle and part throttle. At WOT, no vacuum is made.
I would go to Nissan and get replacement gaskets for the throttle body, IAC, and EGR. Bolt them down with the correct pattern and torque. If that doesn't solve the problem, then move to the vacuum lines and confirm they're all going to the right place.
Dave
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