Hello all,

I posted a question re: EGR valve process before but did not get any response. Maybe because the question wasn't clear, so hear is another try:

My EGR valve doesn't open when warm and engine between 2-4k rpm. I know for sure that the problem is with the EGR control solenoid valve not opening when supposed to. I performed the component inspection and the solenoid perform as expected when 12v is applied and not applied. So I know it is the ECM that doesn't cut the signal to the solenoid. (Actually, I ran wires from the connector on the solenoid valve to the inside of the car and looked at the Volmeter while I was driving... it read ~13volts all the time event at 2-4K)

Can anyone help me? I tested everything I can think of: Engine Coolant Temp Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor, EGR temp Sensor. Please help me, I do not know where to look anymore! Any help would be greatly apreciated.

Please help!

Stephane

 

I went to the dealer and got raped because I could'nt find out what my problem was. Same EGR problem you have. They said it was an EBT by-pass valve. I'm pretty sure that's what it said on the receipt. The part was around $56.00 I'll try to find the part number if you want it.

 

you probably didnt get a response from anyone bc were not really sure, according to haynes it does open at 2000-4000 when underdriving conditions but i doubt u wanna sit on the engine while we go down the highway. other than that u can check it to make sure it holds a 10 ft vacume in the egr valve, other than that i believe u can check the backpressure transducer but thats an azz to get off the car so who knows.

check my ALL MECHANICS thread. My car has problems and nissan specialist's mechanic will not look at it b/c it's modded.

 

hampton imports service dept. SUCKS, one of the worst. you should have taken it to enterprise, AL. their service is the best and they even offer loaner cars (did to me anyways)

 

I might try that cause I hate those bastards at hampton. Went to get my alternator recall done kept my car for a whole two days and I had to constantly call to get it back. This is after I scheduled it. Do you know if the Pensacola dealer is any better? Cause I think they would be closer to me.

 

p-cola service = i have no clue but enterprise won the nissan award of excellence
p-cola sales = one of the worst ever, well atleast in my expirence over the summer.

 

THanks everyone.

In reply to bobjohnson, I am now sure that it is my solenoid. I did check the solenoid operation while I was driving down the freeway. (no, not with the hood open!) I sliced the wires and ran 2 wires from the solenoid to the inside of the car. I connected those wires to my voltmeter. It kept as constant ~13volts never cutting current to the solenoid. So I would say that the ECM doesn't cut the voltage to the solenoid for a reason. Can a Nissan dealership plug their diagnostic tool and check the parameter given to the ECM while the car is on the freeeway? Is that tool portable?

Again, any lead of help is greatly apreciated.

Thanks,
Stephane

 

No that tool they use is the same same ecu step they just use it just pull the codes and defines em right there i believe.
Dealerships plug into the ODBII thingy next to ur fuse box under the steering wheel, with that disconnected.... ummmm ..... no go... Id Just pull over and turn ur car off then get ur screwdriver and pull codes right away before u turn the key all the way off/back position. Try that.... dunno but good luck.

DO NOT I REPEAT, DO NOT Take ur car to the dealer for "check engine light", u probably already know of the bs there about ,

 

Actually, my car doesn't give any codes (unless of course I forget to plug something back The dealership I went to, could give me , using the tool, what is the coolant temperature, could force the EGR valve to open etc. The EGR opens correctly but doesn't at 2-4k rpm. Can this tool read the ECM parameters while the car is moving, real time?

Thanks again

 

bump for being interested as i am having a chk engine light on every so often but it doesnt toss out any error codes when i check (screwdriver in the ECU method).

I found corrosion and lots of road salt in the area where the engine coolant temp sensor and temp gauge sensor. Either way, im having them replaced this monday but wanted to see other opinions as well.

 

This is how I checked my EGR valve only:
-Warmed up engine then shut off
-Disconnected short vacuum line going into EGR valve from EGR back pressure.
-Attached a long vacuum hose to the EGR valve
-Started the engine
-I sucked on the vacuum hose connected to the EGR
-If engine stalls EGR working, if not EGR valve itself is defective or dirty passages.

*this doesnt apply to 98 and up
*I have a 95, it is slighlty different.
*EGR valve failure is very rare in general. Usually selenoid, hoses or dirty valve.