PICS!! Alternator Replacement Needed??
11-29-2003, 11:05 AM
#1
PICS!! Alternator Replacement Needed??
So my Car was at nissan for about 3 weeks. they were trying to figure out why my IGN_SW fuse kept on blowing, Well they found nothing untill me and my dad went there we were looking at the car and the wiring harness, the mechanic told me to turn on the car (he was standing in front looking at the engine) so i turn the key to turn it on the mechanic sees a huge spark (he said) ...so he tells me to take the key out of the ignition, i do and he tells me to put it back in and try to start the car and he finds where the spark comes from it was the main ground bolt came loose and everytime i was trying to turn on the car it was consistantly sparking ( i have pics of what ground it was ) so we replaced the IGN_SW Fuse and it hasnt blown ... and we re-tigtened the bolt.. it drove good and he hooked up a consult to it and it said everything was ok... when i was on my way home i think my transmission missed a shift becasue i was driving and all the sudden my trans went cluck ( like it slammed into a gear) and trhe OD light blinked twice and everything returned to normal.. but the real problem is i think my alternator is gone b/c when the car is on it reads at 13.0-13.5 V but immediatly after the car is off the battery volatge is at 9.5-10.1 and i got a new optima battery last night .. so this is what happens with the car on ACC the clock is Dim and so is the door lights and the radio cuts out sometimes.. but when i turn on my headlights on ACC everything shuts off inside the car and all power goes to the headslights ..and when the headlights are off all power is somewhat restored inside... When the Car is at the ON position power is lost even quicker... so my question do you guys think this is an alternator problem?
Sorry for being so long
Thanks
-Anthony
Website for Pics
http://www.geocities.com/maximavq30/Battery.html
Sorry for being so long
Thanks
-Anthony
Website for Pics
http://www.geocities.com/maximavq30/Battery.html
11-29-2003, 06:12 PM
#4
Yes, it's your alternator.
A good alternator puts out 13.5v-14.0v when the throttle is advanced and held at 2,000rpm. If yours is dipping below this, there's your answer.
I got a lifetime warranty alternator from Autozone for around $149. It's been working great for almost 6 mos.
A good alternator puts out 13.5v-14.0v when the throttle is advanced and held at 2,000rpm. If yours is dipping below this, there's your answer.
I got a lifetime warranty alternator from Autozone for around $149. It's been working great for almost 6 mos.
11-29-2003, 06:36 PM
#5
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
You alternator is fine. You state your battery reads 13 - 13.5 volts when the car is running, that means your alternator is charging.
You describe a power loss inside the cabin:
That sounds like you have a wiring issue or a bad ground or faulty connection someplace.
You describe a power loss inside the cabin:
with the car on ACC the clock is Dim and so is the door lights and the radio cuts out sometimes.. but when i turn on my headlights on ACC everything shuts off inside the car and all power goes to the headslights ..and when the headlights are off all power is somewhat restored inside...
11-29-2003, 07:03 PM
#6
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
You alternator is fine. You state your battery reads 13 - 13.5 volts when the car is running, that means your alternator is charging.
You describe a power loss inside the cabin:
That sounds like you have a wiring issue or a bad ground or faulty connection someplace.
You describe a power loss inside the cabin:
That sounds like you have a wiring issue or a bad ground or faulty connection someplace.
If the alternator's output voltage were sufficient to replenish the battery, the battery wouldn't be reading 10v after the car has been running and is turned off. (Unless the new Optima he mentioned didn't arrive with a full charge - another possibility).
Before I replaced my alternator, the old one was putting out 13-13.2 and I had the same symptoms he described. It's not likely that he's got wiring issues with ALL the circuits he described as malfunctioning - and he's already stated that the main ground bolt has been secured properly. The alternator seems more likely here, given the static battery voltage level of 10v-11v and the alternator output of <13.5v.
But hey, don't take anyone's word here - go get the alternator bench-tested at a local auto parts place & let us know how it checks out.
11-29-2003, 10:17 PM
#7
Originally Posted by KWheelzSB
13v output isn't sufficient to maintain a proper charge on a 12v system in the Maxima. The alternator can be producing voltage above 12v, but insufficient voltage, at that.
If the alternator's output voltage were sufficient to replenish the battery, the battery wouldn't be reading 10v after the car has been running and is turned off. (Unless the new Optima he mentioned didn't arrive with a full charge - another possibility).
Before I replaced my alternator, the old one was putting out 13-13.2 and I had the same symptoms he described. It's not likely that he's got wiring issues with ALL the circuits he described as malfunctioning - and he's already stated that the main ground bolt has been secured properly. The alternator seems more likely here, given the static battery voltage level of 10v-11v and the alternator output of <13.5v.
But hey, don't take anyone's word here - go get the alternator bench-tested at a local auto parts place & let us know how it checks out.
If the alternator's output voltage were sufficient to replenish the battery, the battery wouldn't be reading 10v after the car has been running and is turned off. (Unless the new Optima he mentioned didn't arrive with a full charge - another possibility).
Before I replaced my alternator, the old one was putting out 13-13.2 and I had the same symptoms he described. It's not likely that he's got wiring issues with ALL the circuits he described as malfunctioning - and he's already stated that the main ground bolt has been secured properly. The alternator seems more likely here, given the static battery voltage level of 10v-11v and the alternator output of <13.5v.
But hey, don't take anyone's word here - go get the alternator bench-tested at a local auto parts place & let us know how it checks out.
Thanks I Appriciate everyones help .. im going to remove my alternator tomarrow and take it to autozone .. ill keep you guys updated
-Anthony
11-30-2003, 06:58 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
The other thing about the alt is that if it is not chargeing the battery light will be on. Was the battery charged when you bought it? Many are not. It could also be an old Optima. Also there may be other wireing issues under the hood, corrosion, bad grounds, loose connections, etc.
11-30-2003, 09:34 AM
#9
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 263
Sounds like a bad battery to me. Alt is supposed to show 14-14.5 with a battery that can hold that charge. If the battery is starting at less than 12 then the voltage from the alt. will show less than 14-14.5. Since you're having problems with the car off out of headlights, interior lights, etc. the problem is more than likely at the battery or the battery itself. Check the voltage at the battery with the car off and see what you get. Is your Optima a blue top, yellow top, or red top?
11-30-2003, 10:57 AM
#10
Originally Posted by foetray
Sounds like a bad battery to me. Alt is supposed to show 14-14.5 with a battery that can hold that charge. If the battery is starting at less than 12 then the voltage from the alt. will show less than 14-14.5. Since you're having problems with the car off out of headlights, interior lights, etc. the problem is more than likely at the battery or the battery itself. Check the voltage at the battery with the car off and see what you get. Is your Optima a blue top, yellow top, or red top?
He can bench test the alternator and/or load-test the battery, but we can't know the source of the actual problem until these checks are done.
11-30-2003, 01:27 PM
#11
Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 250
I agree with foetray. Your battery should be reading about 12.7 volts when the engine is not running and when the battery voltage has stabilized.
Some Auto Zones' can check your electrical system with everything still in the car. You may want to try that first.
Gears
Some Auto Zones' can check your electrical system with everything still in the car. You may want to try that first.
Gears
11-30-2003, 05:24 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Gears & Crosses
I agree with foetray. Your battery should be reading about 12.7 volts when the engine is not running and when the battery voltage has stabilized.
Some Auto Zones' can check your electrical system with everything still in the car. You may want to try that first.
Gears
Some Auto Zones' can check your electrical system with everything still in the car. You may want to try that first.
Gears
Complete Set of Diamond Clear Bumper Lights
Black Dash Trim Peice (That Goes Around The Gauges)
Stock Intake Box/ Snokel
Front Strut Bar
12 inch Audiobahn Subwoofer W/ Box
420 Watt Amp
CAT- Test Pipe
Set Of 4 16in Konig Divas Rims With Tires (Tires only have 45% Left)
Depends What Time they get it monday i might try to take my budget Y-pipe Off
So I Guess Im Selling this stuff so make offers if anyone needs this stuff
-Anthony
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