Installing shock sensor
Installing shock sensor
I'm trying to install a shock sensor on to the factory alarm in my 1995 nissan maxima and i'm having trouble. It's model number 504M for autotechs.com. If anyone knows how to install this, please let me know. The write for the 97 doesnt work for the 95.
Originally Posted by bklyncat718
I'm trying to install a shock sensor on to the factory alarm in my 1995 nissan maxima and i'm having trouble. It's model number 504M for autotechs.com. If anyone knows how to install this, please let me know. The write for the 97 doesnt work for the 95.
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=13
Cool. I did mine on a 96 Max just two weeks ago. I wasn't hard at all.
I took a look at the sensor you got from autotechs. Yeah, it looks a lot different than the one the guy at VQPower used. BUT still, the logic's the same.
Only a few things you need to know about your sensor.
Figure out which wires are for what.
1.Power Line
2.Ground Line
3.Trigger Line 1
4.Trigger Line 2
You will have two tigger lines since yours is a TWO STAGE alarm. One for "warn away" and one for "full out alarm".
Okay. Here's the Bad News.
Like myself, we spent more than we needed to on a two stage alarm.
The problem is that regardless of whether or not we have a dual stage alarm, the alarm brain (oem alarm) can only handle one. Meaning, we can only use one of the stages. I used the "full out alarm" trigger because I didn't want the car to go "full out" when it was only supposed to be a "warn away".
BUT IT'S OKAY, because you should be able to change the sensitivity of the alarm once it's installed. I actually ended up having to re-adjust the sensitivity of the alarm because the neighbors complained it was TOO sensitive (dumpster truck passing by would set it off all the time. Once alarm is triggered, it will high beam and honk for a FULL 2 MINUTES). Even when it was only set to the "full out" trigger. Again, like I said, it won't be a problem.
OKAY, back on track.
Figure out which wires are which.
You're going to cut the wire harness that is NOT connected to the alarm.
(I don't think you'll need the fuse. I don't use one and it's fine)
(The wire plugs into the alarm on one side, and the brain on the other side. Cut the wires that are supposed to connect to the brain).
We're just going to splice the wires to connect it to the brain.
Like the info at VQPower.com, connect power line from the alarm to pink wire leading into the BCM, ground to black, and trigger(which ever one you want, I recommend full out trigger. Usually blue color wire) to the yellow with black on the BCM. (The Pink and Black will be together on the same harness, while the yellow with black is on a different (largest) harness).
Connect battery, close all doors, hood, trunk, lock, wait 30secs, and test the sensitivity of the alaram. Adjust as needed.
Let me know if you have problems.
AIM:hpaulcho
Happy Holidays
I took a look at the sensor you got from autotechs. Yeah, it looks a lot different than the one the guy at VQPower used. BUT still, the logic's the same.
Only a few things you need to know about your sensor.
Figure out which wires are for what.
1.Power Line
2.Ground Line
3.Trigger Line 1
4.Trigger Line 2
You will have two tigger lines since yours is a TWO STAGE alarm. One for "warn away" and one for "full out alarm".
Okay. Here's the Bad News.
Like myself, we spent more than we needed to on a two stage alarm.
The problem is that regardless of whether or not we have a dual stage alarm, the alarm brain (oem alarm) can only handle one. Meaning, we can only use one of the stages. I used the "full out alarm" trigger because I didn't want the car to go "full out" when it was only supposed to be a "warn away".
BUT IT'S OKAY, because you should be able to change the sensitivity of the alarm once it's installed. I actually ended up having to re-adjust the sensitivity of the alarm because the neighbors complained it was TOO sensitive (dumpster truck passing by would set it off all the time. Once alarm is triggered, it will high beam and honk for a FULL 2 MINUTES). Even when it was only set to the "full out" trigger. Again, like I said, it won't be a problem.
OKAY, back on track.
Figure out which wires are which.
You're going to cut the wire harness that is NOT connected to the alarm.
(I don't think you'll need the fuse. I don't use one and it's fine)
(The wire plugs into the alarm on one side, and the brain on the other side. Cut the wires that are supposed to connect to the brain).
We're just going to splice the wires to connect it to the brain.
Like the info at VQPower.com, connect power line from the alarm to pink wire leading into the BCM, ground to black, and trigger(which ever one you want, I recommend full out trigger. Usually blue color wire) to the yellow with black on the BCM. (The Pink and Black will be together on the same harness, while the yellow with black is on a different (largest) harness).
Connect battery, close all doors, hood, trunk, lock, wait 30secs, and test the sensitivity of the alaram. Adjust as needed.

Let me know if you have problems.
AIM:hpaulcho
Happy Holidays
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