Guys

A while back I posted that my maxima that when I open her up at WOT and I get pass 3500 rpms like in 3rd (example) and I get a miss or hesistation,, and then goes ok or goes away if I change the gear. But if I just drive normal it does not ever happen.

Anyways I saw a service engine light flash a couple of times and went off,, while I was dragging (wot) my car and notice at the time of the miss or hesistation while at WOT.

So I took her to AutoZone and had the guy there pull the code and he got a code: P0305 .... which he told me it means a CYC #5 misfire. Now my MAX only has 73K on her. I dunno if it ever had a spark plug replaced. But I am asking the pros on here to see if you know what I should replace?

Please help....

Thanks fellas,

 

Start with the plug. Then the coil.

 

Ok,,, but from my understanding you cant just buy 1 coil,, or could you?

If so,,, is the coil hard to replace?

Thanks

...........also which one is the #5 plug? I dont know what the fireing order is.

Thanks

 

ummm ok then. How can you test if the coil is bad or not??

 

0603 0604 0605 0606 0607 0608
If one cylinder is misfiring the problem is spark or fuel. A misfire due to a spark problem usually results in a Service Engine Soon light and one of these Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire

You don't have any of these codes, and the engine smooths out at engine speeds greater than 1000 rpm, so let's assume the problem is with fuel delivery.

I believe one of your fuel injectors is not performing properly. There are two tests the home mechanic can make, the sound test and the resistance test.

Sound test...
This test is performed with the engine idling. Use a mechanic's
stethoscope or a length of rubber vacuum hose, and listen to each injector.
All injectors should sound alike. If you find one which makes a different
sound (or no sound at all) you have found a problem.

Resistance test...
This test is performed with the engine off. Use an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance of each injector. This does not require removing the injectors.
I don't know the correct resistance value for the injectors on your model,
but they are typically a low number such as 16 ohms. The important thing
is they should all be equal. If you find one injector with substantially
higher resistance than the others, it is bad. If you find one with zero
ohms (short circuit) that is truly unfortunate, because the injector is bad
and it may also have damaged the Engine Control Module (the computer)
because of excessive current drain.

Measuring the resistance of the front bank of cylinders is easy because the
injectors are in plain view. Disconnect the injector electrical connector
for cylinder #2, measure the resistance, reconnect the connector. Repeat
for the cylinders #4 and #6.

Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.

The dealer's shop is equipped with high-tech diagnostic instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time. Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with nothing more than a ohmmeter and a rubber tube.