OK...so I've been trailing the CEL everytime it comes up with a new code, doing the necessary fixes to clear it. Well, its back and this time its 10-5 which translates to EGRC Solenoid valve. I have checked the 2 main vacumm tubes for obstruction. The EGR valve has never been replaced. All vacumm tubes seems to be ok, none are unplugged anywhere. What else should I check for? Also, I wonder if this affects fuel consumption? Thanks for the help.

-Dennis

 

OK, so I found my Chilton's manual and found some suggestions on how to fix the problem.

I just noticed something, the illustration which shows the location of the EGR system for the VQ30DE engine w/ manual transmission is different from where mine is located. The book shows that the EGR valve, EGRC solenoid valve, etc. are located to the right next to the throttle body assembly. Mine is located under the throttle body assembly! I am very certain about the engine type in my Maxima, so I thought this is a little weird. Has anyone else in the org seen this difference in their Maximas?

 

Ok....so I just had a chance to work on this problem some more today after a scary experience while I was attempting to clean the TB.

So I went in and replaced some vacuum hoses to try and resolve the ECM code 105 that I am getting. I thought I located the EGRC solenoid valve (2 ports) but quickly realized that it was the EVAP canister control solenoid valve (3 ports). Since I probably need to check this component anyway, I went ahead and tested the control circuit with a light tester and that was ok. I wasn't able to test the component itself because I don't have a vacuum pump. I also replaced the vacuum hoses that goes to each of the ports. I reset the ECU and drove the car around for a little bit, then stopped to get some coffee. And drove it on the way home and the CEL came back.....still showing 105 code. So now, I'm going to look for the EGRC solenoid valve. As I was looking at my Chilton manual, one port of the EGRC solenoid valve connects to the EGR valve vacuum port (top of EGR valve). It's dark now so I'm going to continue tomorrow. But I'm still trying to figure out why I couldn't find this component, its not suppose to be too far away from the EGR valve itself. Any suggestions guys?

 

Sometimes just sometimes, you can fix the problem but your CEL is gonna stay on, like for example my mom's car, the CEL is always on, we took it to go get fixed, there was nothing to fix. Its just a stupid glitch. I have the same problem, and its my Knock sensor. It sucks, its annoying, and I feel that since mines on all the time, I'm never going to know when something really bad has happened to my car. Until I fix it.

 

I understand but the ECU does show a code of 105. I can see your point if the code is 0505 and the CEL stays on. Thanks for your input though.

 

Since this thing is bugging me so much, I went outside with a bright flashlight and looked under the hood. Well I finally found the EGRC solenoid valve. It's right infront of the fuel pressure regulator. It does have 3 ports (I thought it had only 2 as inaccurately shown in the Chilton manual). The color of the component is green, next time it's easy to locate since I know now what it looks like. It was conceiled nicely behind a row of steel vacuum tubes that run in between the EVAP canister control solenoid valve and the EGR valve. And it was laying down horizontally so it's very hard to pinpoint but I found it!

Tomorrow, I'm going to replace all the vacuum tubes running from it and I'm going to test the control circuit to see if it's getting the proper signals it needs to get. Hopefully, I won't have to test the actual component because I don't have a way to blow air into it to check that the proper ports open/close.

 

Uhmmm knock sensor wont throw a code.

If there is a CEL on, there should be a code stored in the ECU and there should be something wrong. I've never heard of a CEL on and a 0505 code.

 

Yes the knock sensor WILL throw a code, it won't make the CEL go on.

 

Doh! Thats what i meant to say...go figure when you're posting half-asleep.

 

Ok, so I replaced all 3 vacuum hoses coming from the EGRC solenoid valve. Also checked the control circuit and it's giving +12v to the solenoid valve. I wasn't able to actually test the component itself since I don't have a vacuum pump to blow air into the ports and check for obstruction. So I reset the ECU and drove it for a few minutes. Then I stopped and shut the engine off for 5 min and then drove around again and the CEL came back on while I was driving. It looks like the EGRC solenoid valve is faulty. Does anyone know what else I can do to really confirm that this is faulty? I called the dealer and it costs $65. Does anyone know of a place that might sell this cheaper? I'm gonna check with Autozone and Pep Boys.

 

Are you sure you're replacing/fixing the right thing? A bit weird that you keep fixing it and it seems to be making no difference at all.

 

Well yesterday, I thought I fixed the EGRC solenoid valve but it turns out that it was the EVAP canister control solenoid valve (post #3). I blame the confusion on my Chiltons manual, I'm picking up the Haynes in the future. Today, I'm certain that it is the EGRC solenoid valve (green in color) this time. I verified it by looking at the vacuum diagram under the hood. The top metallic vacuum port of the EGRC solenoid valve connects to a vacuum hose which connects to a metallic vacuum tube that eventually connects to the bottom side of the TB. There are two plastic vacuum ports on the bottom side of the EGRC solenoid valve: 1) connects to the EGR-BPT valve and 2) connects to the top vacuum port of the EVAP canister control solenoid valve. I also called the Nissan dealer close by and verified with them that I have correctly identified the EGRC solenoid valve. Wheeew!!! I've learned alot about the EGR system in my car. I have to say that I'm no longer ignorant about its functionality and how each component connects to one another.

 

OK I called Autozone and its not available. I called Pep Boys and their price is $108 (special order). I'm wondering if the lady that answered the phone looked up the correct info on her computer but anyhow, looks like I'm picking up the one from the Nissan dealer ($65) and its on stock too.

 

Looks like the CEL is gone for now! I installed the new EGRC solenoid valve this morning. I've been driving the car all day and no CEL. The car is all good for now and I hope that light stays off for a while.

 

If there is a CEL on, there should be a code stored in the ECU and there should be something wrong. I've never heard of a CEL on and a 0505 code.[/QUOTE]

me neither, but its happened to me three times, the third being today.

 

me neither, but its happened to me three times, the third being today.[/QUOTE]


Hmmmm....maybe the ECU is bad itself???

 

Hmmmm....maybe the ECU is bad itself???[/QUOTE]

yea someone suggested that earlier, lets hope its not the case.

thing is first time i try to recover the codes nothing happens, its the second time i try that it begins to display the 5 by 5. i wonder if im accidentally reseting the ecu?

 

if you did the CEL check by counting the pulses, i would goto Autozone and have the CEL checked for free.

 

Please help. I am experiencing the same cel code 05 05 . I have recently changed the O2 Sensor on my 1999 maxima SE Limited. Reset the cel by follwing the instruction provided on this site. The cel Cleared for a week or 2 weeks and then back on. Checked CEL codes and 05 05.
05 05 means undefined or no trouble found. Can someone tell me what is going on. If there are no trouble, why did the cel come on? thanks

 

99 gle i bought drinks gas like its going out of style (and it is)...coincidence ses light is on? my honda i had, its ecu would run WAY different if that light was on

 

these cars seem to have all kinds of problems with ignition and emissions

 

Run the ECU diagnostic test
- Put the car on accessory mode( when all lights on dash light up)
- Take flat head screwdriver and turn the "screw" clockwise until it stops ( without forcing)
- Pause for 2 seconds
- Turn "screw" counter clockwise until it stops ( starting position)..

then count how many times the SES/CEL light flashes..
it will flash in 2 series, slow and fast ... example it will flash 3 times slowly and then 4 times quickly = code 0304 and if you search in the stickies, it would tell you what it is.. in this case, 0304 = Knock sensor..

possible that is your problem if you are comsuming more gas then supposed to.

 

codes P0400-EGR, P0138 o2 sensor, trial and error time, but nothing a couple beers wont help me fix...funny though this car seems to be chugging gas but idles @700 rpm...and theres possibly slight hesitation in low rpm acceleration (unless i floor it) anybody know if this is typical for a problem related with CEL on with these codes. had this car for 2 weeks now and dont know squat about them so i wouldnt know how they r SUPPOSED to act. this forum is reallly great though and for the most part everybody that gets involved on here is very helpful too.