Me and a friend on the org cleaned my throttle body few weeks ago.

Now for some reason after car heats up the lowest the rpms go is just a line less then 1k now when driving when I come to a stop the car stays at 1.5k rpms when I let go of the brakes and press it again the rpms drop to 1k why?? Is something wrong? The car became much louder at idle since we cleaned the TB maybe something is connected wrong or am I just paranoid?

When I rev the rpms drop to 1.1k stops then goes down to alittle less then 1k ??

anyone?...........

Is it cold out?? I have no clue sorry...

yea its wierd it does not bother me because i never stall anymore but I just want to make sure nothing is braking..

Check the throttle cable - maybe it's too tight and not letting it close all the way.

have any pics of what u are talking about?

Sure now that we've all got access to the Chiltons for a while. If the cable's too tight then your RPM's won't settle down to the 6xx area. The cable closest to the TB is the throttle (other is cruise). Those 2 nuts on the intake manifold hold the cable in position.

thx man going to have a look in a few and let u know

I tried putting the screws all the way up leaving the wire hanging and also all the way down and in the middle no luck lowest it goes is 800k then in 1min goes back up to 1k what do you think is wrong?

Does the VQ have a base idle? I'm still switching over from the SR20 but i know on that you needed to take off the TPS and adjust your base idle and that would help.


Is it a rough idle as far as it will jump from 800-1000 and back and forth, or stay at 1000?

my car does the same thing! Its a new engine (well a new/used engine-has 45k miles)...when fully warm the rpms are just above 1000 rpms. When I put the car in neutral, such as coming to a red light, and brake, the rpms come down to 1200-1400 rpms and stay there for about 2-3 sec. before dropping further to 1100-1200 rpms....I have no idea whats causing it! I do have a cel on which gives codes for a EGR problem and both O2 sensors.....also there is a hole in the exhaust. I am not sure if those other problems are related or directly caused the rpms to act strangely. However, perhaps you should check your exhaust? If you find anything out, please let me know! Ive talked to someone else with this problem as well.....

My friend thinks I have an Exhaust leak aswell how do I find out?

Check engine is always on since I did a conversion from Auto to Manual... But I will have to find out about the EGR code I might be getting it aswell..

I am 100% sure I did not have this before I cleaned the TB and changed my Head Gasket so something must be eather connected wrong or I have no clue..

I got it down to 800 some how but it went right back up to 1k after few mins..

oh yeh my TB was very greasy when we cleaned it..

how many miles on the engine? Do you think the mechanic cleaned out the throttle body before installing my engine? I am not sure if the TB came from the old engine or new...I know a lot of parts were used from the old engine though....

[QUOTE=tynant] I do have a cel on which gives codes for a EGR problem and both O2 sensors.....QUOTE]

EGR might do it. Try disconnecting the EGR and see if that helps. Also check all your vacuum hoses for proper connection and whatnot.

102k ................

[QUOTE=G20Flyer]I think something is connected wrong for me aswell Where Can I see a picture of the EGR lines?

yeah I got the codes aover a month ago, but havent had time to take it to the dealer....pics of EGR please! Also, what exactly does the EGR do? How many vacuum lines are there?

Someone said there was chiltons online here. I would get the haynes or FSM...probably quickest would be haynes manual.

I looked at every hose possible dont see anything I know i must be missing something can someone post a picture of exact places/lines to check??

EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation

Its mostly for emissions control purposes, which reduced NOx.

What it does is it takes some exhaust air from the manifold and directs it to the intake manifold. In turn this actually LOWERS the combustion temperature. This is why if you have a knocking/pinging engine, EGR will help to reduce this.

Theres too many vacuum lines to count...they are everywhere

I just floored my car in 3rd gear and had a burning smell coming from the engine for few mins what could that be? Not sure if it is my clutch because I never burn it

Well, antifreeze, oil, clutch, brake and rubber all have different burning smells. Unfortunatly, you cant really describe them. Do you know what clutch smells like?

Yep might of been the clutch...

So is there anyway to find out whats causing the rpms to act up?? I checked every line I might of missed a few but How would I know?? You wouldnt know what exact lines can cause this?

Welll i'll tell yah rough idle is a ***** becuase it can be SOO many things if things havent been replaced.

1) Air filter/intake
2) Vacuum hoses are pretty much any hose that is coming off any part of the intake, thats how it makes the vacuum.
3) Ignition components and timing and TPS
4) Fuel system - fuel filter, fuel pump and possibly injectors
5) EGR system including BPT (possibly no EGR becuase of no backpressure or too much backpressure in your exhaust system)
6) Check your ECU for any codes

So we checked the codes a few tranny codes and another unusual one 0174 anyone have a haynes manual? it said Lean or something??

btw my EGR is clean.

I dont feel any power loss car pulls like crazy but really bad gas mileage from 350+ to 220

the code has to be translated from P0174 to our diagnostic code.... the reader said Running Lean in Bank 2.

bumpppppppppppppppp

P0174 = 0210 in flash code

0210
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0210 points to a problem with the fuel injection system. When the engine management system is running in closed-loop mode the Engine Control Unit (the computer) makes continual adjustments to maintain the air-fuel ratio near the ideal point. To achieve this it relies on signals from many sensors including the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the Oxygen Sensors.

This malfunction is detected when the ECM finds that it cannot properly control the air/fuel mixture, and the mixture is too lean (too much air). DTC 0210 indicates this problem exists on the left bank (the front bank, cylinders 2, 4, and 6). Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Front Oxygen Sensor
- one or more fuel injectors on the front bank
- exhaust gas leaks
- incorrect fuel pressure
- lack of fuel
- Mass Air Flow Sensor

Credit goes to our own forum
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=235667

I guess I should've asked about trouble codes appearing before assuming the cable was at fault.

James any ideas on what falls out?

- Intake air leaks (dont think so unless the hole we taped is making the problem)
- Front Oxygen Sensor (wouldnt The CEL come on for it? )
- one or more fuel injectors on the front bank(maybe)
- exhaust gas leaks (maybe)
- incorrect fuel pressure (maybe)
- lack of fuel (nope)
- Mass Air Flow Sensor (maybe)

How do I find out about all the others?

Will a diagnostic test at nissan do it?

Ok So my mechanic lowered my rpms to 7.5k but still stops at 1k and drops down at every traffic light..

We also changed the Front Left Oxygen Sensor.

Whats left?

Ok few hours later I see my check engine light is back will check it.. Could it be that both front Oxygen sensors are gone?? Or is the problem somewhere else any help is appriciated.