100,000 Trouble Free Miles
I have a 95 Black SE Auto that just turned 100,000 trouble free miles, The only thing that has had to be repaired or replaced was the starter. Of course I have done the regular maintenance and went to Castrol Full Synthetic Oil at about 20,000 miles.
The car is has every available option except for the cold weather package, I bought the car from a Ft. Smith dealer for $5,000 of list (my uncle was the sales manager).
Funny think we weren't even looking at for a Maxima at the time we were looking for a new Cadillac and the Cadillac dealer was across the street from the Nissan place. We just went over to the Nissan place to talk with
my uncle and he asked if we ever drove a Maxima. Well after one drive we were sold and signed the papers the next day, of course we drove the car home that day. A great investment for $24,383.
The car is has every available option except for the cold weather package, I bought the car from a Ft. Smith dealer for $5,000 of list (my uncle was the sales manager).
Funny think we weren't even looking at for a Maxima at the time we were looking for a new Cadillac and the Cadillac dealer was across the street from the Nissan place. We just went over to the Nissan place to talk with
my uncle and he asked if we ever drove a Maxima. Well after one drive we were sold and signed the papers the next day, of course we drove the car home that day. A great investment for $24,383.
You're good for another 100K!
Originally posted by JohnFisher
I have a 95 Black SE Auto that just turned 100,000 trouble free miles, The only thing that has had to be repaired or replaced was the starter. Of course I have done the regular maintenance and went to Castrol Full Synthetic Oil at about 20,000 miles.
The car is has every available option except for the cold weather package, I bought the car from a Ft. Smith dealer for $5,000 of list (my uncle was the sales manager).
Funny think we weren't even looking at for a Maxima at the time we were looking for a new Cadillac and the Cadillac dealer was across the street from the Nissan place. We just went over to the Nissan place to talk with
my uncle and he asked if we ever drove a Maxima. Well after one drive we were sold and signed the papers the next day, of course we drove the car home that day. A great investment for $24,383.
I have a 95 Black SE Auto that just turned 100,000 trouble free miles, The only thing that has had to be repaired or replaced was the starter. Of course I have done the regular maintenance and went to Castrol Full Synthetic Oil at about 20,000 miles.
The car is has every available option except for the cold weather package, I bought the car from a Ft. Smith dealer for $5,000 of list (my uncle was the sales manager).
Funny think we weren't even looking at for a Maxima at the time we were looking for a new Cadillac and the Cadillac dealer was across the street from the Nissan place. We just went over to the Nissan place to talk with
my uncle and he asked if we ever drove a Maxima. Well after one drive we were sold and signed the papers the next day, of course we drove the car home that day. A great investment for $24,383.
The man who takes good care of his car for the first 100K miles is rewarded with reliable and economical operation during the second 100K miles. The man who neglects and abuses his car for the first 100K miles doesn't get a second 100K miles.
Best wishes for continued success with your Maxima.
damn!!!!!!!
Originally posted by Nismo
mine is up to 225,000 no problems yet.
mine is up to 225,000 no problems yet.
HOLY ****!!!!!!!!!!!!
thats unbelievable, i was looking at a 97 GXE with my dad, and it had 70k, i thought that was too much, but holy ****!
wow man.....
any problems?
with the mechanical stuff like struts, axles? did any of those need to be change after 100k?
how about the brakes and the rotors? are those still the original?
how about the brakes and the rotors? are those still the original?
Originally posted by buss95max
121ks no problems except the starter.
121ks no problems except the starter.
100k and feelin fine
My 95 GXE has 100K and only req'd an O2 sensor change. STill pulls smoothly well above the 5000 rpm mark. Everything else has been normal maintenance except for the brakes... they are still OEM-even the pads.
I heard some squeaking this weekend and checkd them by actually removing the pads and inspecting...my pads gouged my rotors. The inner part of the drivers side rotor is gouged. The pad is still good but apparently wasan't hitting the rotor flush...think I may have gooten debris in there or something. Anyways. I'll drive it like this another 10K miles (or till the pads wear out) and change pads and rotors later...
I heard some squeaking this weekend and checkd them by actually removing the pads and inspecting...my pads gouged my rotors. The inner part of the drivers side rotor is gouged. The pad is still good but apparently wasan't hitting the rotor flush...think I may have gooten debris in there or something. Anyways. I'll drive it like this another 10K miles (or till the pads wear out) and change pads and rotors later...
Dont feel bad, youre not the only 95 Max with 100k... i have a GLE and i bought it at 88k and im at 101k now... it depresses me that its so high but what are you gonna do, in the year i had it so far it hasnt given me any problems..
Re: any problems?
Originally posted by humaras
with the mechanical stuff like struts, axles? did any of those need to be change after 100k?
how about the brakes and the rotors? are those still the original?
with the mechanical stuff like struts, axles? did any of those need to be change after 100k?
how about the brakes and the rotors? are those still the original?
Originally posted by buss95max
121ks no problems except the starter.
121ks no problems except the starter.
i think you're suppose to replace them(stock struts) anyways every 5 years.
my passengerside axle was find until this lady hit me on that side..
brakes i change time to time..once i feel them fading.
i resurfaced my rotors twice so far.
i changed my belts when i first got my car with 72ks.
just basic stuff..i take my car to the 1/4 track all the time..too....
VQ POWER!!!!!!!!!!!
belts and water pump?
I know the brake pads usually need to be changed --espeically if you are like me who lives in the city and is constantly braking every 2 seconds...but I was wondering about the accessory belts and water-pump...did those two items give anyone problems in that 100K?I am curious because most of the other foreign cars I have had require timing belt changes at every 60k and the belts and water pump got changed too, but in the case of our VQ engine with the chain...that gets a bit confusing as to when to change and inspect these belts...
anyone?
anyone?
Originally posted by buss95max
struts went out with h&rs = now i have konis
i think you're suppose to replace them(stock struts) anyways every 5 years.
my passengerside axle was find until this lady hit me on that side..
brakes i change time to time..once i feel them fading.
i resurfaced my rotors twice so far.
i changed my belts when i first got my car with 72ks.
just basic stuff..i take my car to the 1/4 track all the time..too....
VQ POWER!!!!!!!!!!!
Originally posted by humaras
with the mechanical stuff like struts, axles? did any of those need to be change after 100k?
how about the brakes and the rotors? are those still the original?
with the mechanical stuff like struts, axles? did any of those need to be change after 100k?
how about the brakes and the rotors? are those still the original?
Originally posted by buss95max
121ks no problems except the starter.
121ks no problems except the starter.
i think you're suppose to replace them(stock struts) anyways every 5 years.
my passengerside axle was find until this lady hit me on that side..
brakes i change time to time..once i feel them fading.
i resurfaced my rotors twice so far.
i changed my belts when i first got my car with 72ks.
just basic stuff..i take my car to the 1/4 track all the time..too....
VQ POWER!!!!!!!!!!!
Re: dam.....
Well, I hope it is something less than that, maybe just a clamp out of place =)
well, I would be more than satisfied if I can get my car to the mileage where you guys have it.
After 2 years I have dings all over the place and a small power steering leak...
I assume all you guys don't even have a drop leaking anywhere yet...
why is it that someone else's car always seem to be in better shape and I have always gotten the lemon (knock on wood!!)
well, I would be more than satisfied if I can get my car to the mileage where you guys have it.
After 2 years I have dings all over the place and a small power steering leak...
I assume all you guys don't even have a drop leaking anywhere yet...
why is it that someone else's car always seem to be in better shape and I have always gotten the lemon (knock on wood!!)
Originally posted by buss95max
speak of the devil...
i just noticed im leaking antifreeze. but it only happens during warm up.
i think its the water pump..
ah well..no big deal..
speak of the devil...
i just noticed im leaking antifreeze. but it only happens during warm up.
i think its the water pump..
ah well..no big deal..
Re: belts and water pump?
Originally posted by humaras
...but I was wondering about the accessory belts and water-pump...
...but I was wondering about the accessory belts and water-pump...
Replace the water pump when there are symtoms of failure. These would be
- noise
- coolant leakage
- cooling system problems not attributable to other parts
Since the pump is hidden from view, the first symptom of coolant leakage would be contamination of the engine oil.
Water pump sounds
Originally posted by buss95max
what kind of noise will i hear, if its the water pump?
grinding, whistling? i have no idea what to look out for.
what kind of noise will i hear, if its the water pump?
grinding, whistling? i have no idea what to look out for.
Re: Water pump sounds
Dan B--
so if the water pump ever goes bad, a good indicator according to the engine oil observation would be that we see a mix of water (from the coolant) mixed in with the engine oil? And this can be observed just by looking at the oil from the engine oul dipstick?
I just wanted to double check that, so I know what to look for in about 70K. =) (there is some wishful thinking right?)
thanks for the tip!!
Brian
so if the water pump ever goes bad, a good indicator according to the engine oil observation would be that we see a mix of water (from the coolant) mixed in with the engine oil? And this can be observed just by looking at the oil from the engine oul dipstick?
I just wanted to double check that, so I know what to look for in about 70K. =) (there is some wishful thinking right?)
thanks for the tip!!
Brian
Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
The volume and nature of the sound depends on how badly damaged the water pump is. The source of the sound is the ball bearing which supports the pump shaft. When new, the bearing is silent. If it becomes seriously worn the sound may progress from a shrill squeal to a grumbling to a grinding. By that time the liquid seal will have failed and you may see signs of coolant contamination in the engine oil. This will be evident when you check the dipstick or open the oil fill port. It looks like an unappetizing chocolate milkshake. When you see that, take action immediately!
Originally posted by buss95max
what kind of noise will i hear, if its the water pump?
grinding, whistling? i have no idea what to look out for.
what kind of noise will i hear, if its the water pump?
grinding, whistling? i have no idea what to look out for.
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I am glad to hear everybody's success with the Max at 100k. I have 81K and (for now anyway) would like to keep it for a long time. I am enjoying not making monthly payments and investing the money instead. And at 81k, it still pulls hard. Thanks for the post to reaffirm my investment I made 5 years ago. I think my wife is thankful that I don't know anyone personally with a modded up Max cuz she always warns me not to make my Max like "those guys on that website."
Re: checked it....
see that is the spirit-- =)
no biggie (hopefully)
Glad to hear that it was a minor thing on your car, BussMax!!
now if all those darn rattles in my car would just go away...and the paint was better...
I can't complain about everything, right? since we have an excellent engine to boot...oh well, gotta give up some stuff...*sigh*
no biggie (hopefully)
Glad to hear that it was a minor thing on your car, BussMax!!
now if all those darn rattles in my car would just go away...and the paint was better...
I can't complain about everything, right? since we have an excellent engine to boot...oh well, gotta give up some stuff...*sigh*
Originally posted by buss95max
oil is fine..theres no traces of water
im thinking a hose got loose...
oil is fine..theres no traces of water
im thinking a hose got loose...
Starter and battery symptoms are similar, they should be able to determine what the problem is starter, alternator or battery after testing.
I took mine to Sears where I purchased a battery about 4 months prior and they stated the starter was bad. After they told me $500.00 for generic starter and $100.00 to install I said NO WAY, they said the car wouldn’t start so I said roll er out in the lot. Well I purchased a Nissan starter for $350.00 and installed it in their lot myself.
It takes time to install because of stuff (air box) you have to pull off and the different size bolts in the starter itself but was well worth the saving of $250.00.
I took mine to Sears where I purchased a battery about 4 months prior and they stated the starter was bad. After they told me $500.00 for generic starter and $100.00 to install I said NO WAY, they said the car wouldn’t start so I said roll er out in the lot. Well I purchased a Nissan starter for $350.00 and installed it in their lot myself.
It takes time to install because of stuff (air box) you have to pull off and the different size bolts in the starter itself but was well worth the saving of $250.00.
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