EGR system Questions??????'s
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 59
EGR system Questions??????'s
I have a 95 se 5-speed. Is there write up on how to get to and how to clean the egr system? Ive searched and cant find anything. Im sure there is something out there. Thanks in advance.
Donating Maxima.org Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 281
Originally Posted by max80228
So nobody knows anything huh???? Thanks
Id buy the haynes book...should help you out there a bit. What would make you think you need to clean it out?
Pipe cleaners work well to get into some spots. You may have to take off the BPT and EGR valves...however i think its a ***** becuase all the air intake tract is in the way.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 269
Hey Max80228, I had an EGR problem a while back and the dealership wanted to charge me over $1100 to clean it. I took it to a different mechanic and he told me to by some fuel injector cleaner and once a week for 4 weeks fill it up, and pour in a bottle. The problem went away for me. Hope this helps you save some time and trouble.
max80228,
I've been trying to deal with these damn EGR issues myself for weeks. The thing about this is that not one solution can fix all. The EGR system is one complicated thing and that's why dealers see the opportunity to screw people everytime someone drives up at their service area with EGR problems. I've been trying to post the EGR issues I've been having problems with in this forum but I don't think many have had these issues therefore support regarding it is almost non-existent. It's kinda like your car catching some rare disease and you are pretty much on your own to try and find the cures for it. Not many people want to deal with it too and I'm sure a lot of people drive around with the CEL on just hoping that whatever that problem is doesn't manifest into something really bad and that it'll just go away. EGR issues don't go away and when you fix one issue, others can crop up. Since everything is connected in series of one another, one chain can cause the whole system to trip the CEL to come on. You cannot just ignore the issues because having a faulty EGR system will definitely fail your car when its time for a smog test. The EGR system recirculates exhaust gases back into the engine's intake system to reduce emissions and if that system doens't work like its suppose to, your engine will be emitting too much harmful gases in the atmosphere thus it will fail inspection. I've had the EGR valve code, EGRC solenoid valve code, and now the EVAP canister solenoid valve code and it doesn't seem like its gonna end there.
I have a pretty good Chilton service manual and the problem with these 3rd party manuals is that information sometimes are inaccurate. Some diagrams that it would show is not really accurate for the model/year of a particular car. I think that every year, for a particular model, not only has one version of an EGR system, for example, but it also has several versions depending on what date of the year that car came off the production line. It's such a pain just trying to identify emissions related components in a car, let alone trying to troubleshoot and resolve the issues, when 1) there's endless vaccum lines running everywhere that its really hard to find and distinguish the components your dealing with, 2) there's discrepancies with 3rd party manuals, and 3) the community support is minimal. I think Nissan thought of this very carefully before they designed such complicated and confusing system to keep the DIY's paws off of it and give us no choice but to bow down and subject our broke pockets to their service advisors. Who's to say that they will actually fix the problem anyway, since dealers never really fix anything on the first visit and the more you come back, the more expensive the repair bill cost. That's how dealers screw over people.
Sorry for such a long post since you can tell that I'm also venting. But first, I'd invest on a real Nissan service manual. I'm not sure what it is but you can ask some in here since some of the org members have them. Second, just be very patient, research and research and research. Get an understanding of what each component does, study the schematics in the book. I've gone cross-eyed trying to read those little letters and numbers and to try to make some sense out of them. This is the only way to figure out how this whole system ticks. The other half of the battle is locating the components in question and that's when you need a good service manual. Everything else is procedural which the manual should cover.
I've been trying to deal with these damn EGR issues myself for weeks. The thing about this is that not one solution can fix all. The EGR system is one complicated thing and that's why dealers see the opportunity to screw people everytime someone drives up at their service area with EGR problems. I've been trying to post the EGR issues I've been having problems with in this forum but I don't think many have had these issues therefore support regarding it is almost non-existent. It's kinda like your car catching some rare disease and you are pretty much on your own to try and find the cures for it. Not many people want to deal with it too and I'm sure a lot of people drive around with the CEL on just hoping that whatever that problem is doesn't manifest into something really bad and that it'll just go away. EGR issues don't go away and when you fix one issue, others can crop up. Since everything is connected in series of one another, one chain can cause the whole system to trip the CEL to come on. You cannot just ignore the issues because having a faulty EGR system will definitely fail your car when its time for a smog test. The EGR system recirculates exhaust gases back into the engine's intake system to reduce emissions and if that system doens't work like its suppose to, your engine will be emitting too much harmful gases in the atmosphere thus it will fail inspection. I've had the EGR valve code, EGRC solenoid valve code, and now the EVAP canister solenoid valve code and it doesn't seem like its gonna end there.
I have a pretty good Chilton service manual and the problem with these 3rd party manuals is that information sometimes are inaccurate. Some diagrams that it would show is not really accurate for the model/year of a particular car. I think that every year, for a particular model, not only has one version of an EGR system, for example, but it also has several versions depending on what date of the year that car came off the production line. It's such a pain just trying to identify emissions related components in a car, let alone trying to troubleshoot and resolve the issues, when 1) there's endless vaccum lines running everywhere that its really hard to find and distinguish the components your dealing with, 2) there's discrepancies with 3rd party manuals, and 3) the community support is minimal. I think Nissan thought of this very carefully before they designed such complicated and confusing system to keep the DIY's paws off of it and give us no choice but to bow down and subject our broke pockets to their service advisors. Who's to say that they will actually fix the problem anyway, since dealers never really fix anything on the first visit and the more you come back, the more expensive the repair bill cost. That's how dealers screw over people.
Sorry for such a long post since you can tell that I'm also venting. But first, I'd invest on a real Nissan service manual. I'm not sure what it is but you can ask some in here since some of the org members have them. Second, just be very patient, research and research and research. Get an understanding of what each component does, study the schematics in the book. I've gone cross-eyed trying to read those little letters and numbers and to try to make some sense out of them. This is the only way to figure out how this whole system ticks. The other half of the battle is locating the components in question and that's when you need a good service manual. Everything else is procedural which the manual should cover.
Originally Posted by 2DaMax
max80228,
I've been trying to deal with these damn EGR issues myself for weeks. The thing about this is that not one solution can fix all. The EGR system is one complicated thing and that's why dealers see the opportunity to screw people everytime someone drives up at their service area with EGR problems. I've been trying to post the EGR issues I've been having problems with in this forum but I don't think many have had these issues therefore support regarding it is almost non-existent. It's kinda like your car catching some rare disease and you are pretty much on your own to try and find the cures for it. Not many people want to deal with it too and I'm sure a lot of people drive around with the CEL on just hoping that whatever that problem is doesn't manifest into something really bad and that it'll just go away. EGR issues don't go away and when you fix one issue, others can crop up. Since everything is connected in series of one another, one chain can cause the whole system to trip the CEL to come on. You cannot just ignore the issues because having a faulty EGR system will definitely fail your car when its time for a smog test. The EGR system recirculates exhaust gases back into the engine's intake system to reduce emissions and if that system doens't work like its suppose to, your engine will be emitting too much harmful gases in the atmosphere thus it will fail inspection. I've had the EGR valve code, EGRC solenoid valve code, and now the EVAP canister solenoid valve code and it doesn't seem like its gonna end there.
I have a pretty good Chilton service manual and the problem with these 3rd party manuals is that information sometimes are inaccurate. Some diagrams that it would show is not really accurate for the model/year of a particular car. I think that every year, for a particular model, not only has one version of an EGR system, for example, but it also has several versions depending on what date of the year that car came off the production line. It's such a pain just trying to identify emissions related components in a car, let alone trying to troubleshoot and resolve the issues, when 1) there's endless vaccum lines running everywhere that its really hard to find and distinguish the components your dealing with, 2) there's discrepancies with 3rd party manuals, and 3) the community support is minimal. I think Nissan thought of this very carefully before they designed such complicated and confusing system to keep the DIY's paws off of it and give us no choice but to bow down and subject our broke pockets to their service advisors. Who's to say that they will actually fix the problem anyway, since dealers never really fix anything on the first visit and the more you come back, the more expensive the repair bill cost. That's how dealers screw over people.
Sorry for such a long post since you can tell that I'm also venting. But first, I'd invest on a real Nissan service manual. I'm not sure what it is but you can ask some in here since some of the org members have them. Second, just be very patient, research and research and research. Get an understanding of what each component does, study the schematics in the book. I've gone cross-eyed trying to read those little letters and numbers and to try to make some sense out of them. This is the only way to figure out how this whole system ticks. The other half of the battle is locating the components in question and that's when you need a good service manual. Everything else is procedural which the manual should cover.
I've been trying to deal with these damn EGR issues myself for weeks. The thing about this is that not one solution can fix all. The EGR system is one complicated thing and that's why dealers see the opportunity to screw people everytime someone drives up at their service area with EGR problems. I've been trying to post the EGR issues I've been having problems with in this forum but I don't think many have had these issues therefore support regarding it is almost non-existent. It's kinda like your car catching some rare disease and you are pretty much on your own to try and find the cures for it. Not many people want to deal with it too and I'm sure a lot of people drive around with the CEL on just hoping that whatever that problem is doesn't manifest into something really bad and that it'll just go away. EGR issues don't go away and when you fix one issue, others can crop up. Since everything is connected in series of one another, one chain can cause the whole system to trip the CEL to come on. You cannot just ignore the issues because having a faulty EGR system will definitely fail your car when its time for a smog test. The EGR system recirculates exhaust gases back into the engine's intake system to reduce emissions and if that system doens't work like its suppose to, your engine will be emitting too much harmful gases in the atmosphere thus it will fail inspection. I've had the EGR valve code, EGRC solenoid valve code, and now the EVAP canister solenoid valve code and it doesn't seem like its gonna end there.
I have a pretty good Chilton service manual and the problem with these 3rd party manuals is that information sometimes are inaccurate. Some diagrams that it would show is not really accurate for the model/year of a particular car. I think that every year, for a particular model, not only has one version of an EGR system, for example, but it also has several versions depending on what date of the year that car came off the production line. It's such a pain just trying to identify emissions related components in a car, let alone trying to troubleshoot and resolve the issues, when 1) there's endless vaccum lines running everywhere that its really hard to find and distinguish the components your dealing with, 2) there's discrepancies with 3rd party manuals, and 3) the community support is minimal. I think Nissan thought of this very carefully before they designed such complicated and confusing system to keep the DIY's paws off of it and give us no choice but to bow down and subject our broke pockets to their service advisors. Who's to say that they will actually fix the problem anyway, since dealers never really fix anything on the first visit and the more you come back, the more expensive the repair bill cost. That's how dealers screw over people.
Sorry for such a long post since you can tell that I'm also venting. But first, I'd invest on a real Nissan service manual. I'm not sure what it is but you can ask some in here since some of the org members have them. Second, just be very patient, research and research and research. Get an understanding of what each component does, study the schematics in the book. I've gone cross-eyed trying to read those little letters and numbers and to try to make some sense out of them. This is the only way to figure out how this whole system ticks. The other half of the battle is locating the components in question and that's when you need a good service manual. Everything else is procedural which the manual should cover.
Originally Posted by 2DaMax
max80228,
I've been trying to deal with these damn EGR issues myself for weeks. The thing about this is that not one solution can fix all. The EGR system is one complicated thing and that's why dealers see the opportunity to screw people everytime someone drives up at their service area with EGR problems. I've been trying to post the EGR issues I've been having problems with in this forum but I don't think many have had these issues therefore support regarding it is almost non-existent. It's kinda like your car catching some rare disease and you are pretty much on your own to try and find the cures for it. Not many people want to deal with it too and I'm sure a lot of people drive around with the CEL on just hoping that whatever that problem is doesn't manifest into something really bad and that it'll just go away. EGR issues don't go away and when you fix one issue, others can crop up. Since everything is connected in series of one another, one chain can cause the whole system to trip the CEL to come on. You cannot just ignore the issues because having a faulty EGR system will definitely fail your car when its time for a smog test. The EGR system recirculates exhaust gases back into the engine's intake system to reduce emissions and if that system doens't work like its suppose to, your engine will be emitting too much harmful gases in the atmosphere thus it will fail inspection. I've had the EGR valve code, EGRC solenoid valve code, and now the EVAP canister solenoid valve code and it doesn't seem like its gonna end there.
I have a pretty good Chilton service manual and the problem with these 3rd party manuals is that information sometimes are inaccurate. Some diagrams that it would show is not really accurate for the model/year of a particular car. I think that every year, for a particular model, not only has one version of an EGR system, for example, but it also has several versions depending on what date of the year that car came off the production line. It's such a pain just trying to identify emissions related components in a car, let alone trying to troubleshoot and resolve the issues, when 1) there's endless vaccum lines running everywhere that its really hard to find and distinguish the components your dealing with, 2) there's discrepancies with 3rd party manuals, and 3) the community support is minimal. I think Nissan thought of this very carefully before they designed such complicated and confusing system to keep the DIY's paws off of it and give us no choice but to bow down and subject our broke pockets to their service advisors. Who's to say that they will actually fix the problem anyway, since dealers never really fix anything on the first visit and the more you come back, the more expensive the repair bill cost. That's how dealers screw over people.
Sorry for such a long post since you can tell that I'm also venting. But first, I'd invest on a real Nissan service manual. I'm not sure what it is but you can ask some in here since some of the org members have them. Second, just be very patient, research and research and research. Get an understanding of what each component does, study the schematics in the book. I've gone cross-eyed trying to read those little letters and numbers and to try to make some sense out of them. This is the only way to figure out how this whole system ticks. The other half of the battle is locating the components in question and that's when you need a good service manual. Everything else is procedural which the manual should cover.
I've been trying to deal with these damn EGR issues myself for weeks. The thing about this is that not one solution can fix all. The EGR system is one complicated thing and that's why dealers see the opportunity to screw people everytime someone drives up at their service area with EGR problems. I've been trying to post the EGR issues I've been having problems with in this forum but I don't think many have had these issues therefore support regarding it is almost non-existent. It's kinda like your car catching some rare disease and you are pretty much on your own to try and find the cures for it. Not many people want to deal with it too and I'm sure a lot of people drive around with the CEL on just hoping that whatever that problem is doesn't manifest into something really bad and that it'll just go away. EGR issues don't go away and when you fix one issue, others can crop up. Since everything is connected in series of one another, one chain can cause the whole system to trip the CEL to come on. You cannot just ignore the issues because having a faulty EGR system will definitely fail your car when its time for a smog test. The EGR system recirculates exhaust gases back into the engine's intake system to reduce emissions and if that system doens't work like its suppose to, your engine will be emitting too much harmful gases in the atmosphere thus it will fail inspection. I've had the EGR valve code, EGRC solenoid valve code, and now the EVAP canister solenoid valve code and it doesn't seem like its gonna end there.
I have a pretty good Chilton service manual and the problem with these 3rd party manuals is that information sometimes are inaccurate. Some diagrams that it would show is not really accurate for the model/year of a particular car. I think that every year, for a particular model, not only has one version of an EGR system, for example, but it also has several versions depending on what date of the year that car came off the production line. It's such a pain just trying to identify emissions related components in a car, let alone trying to troubleshoot and resolve the issues, when 1) there's endless vaccum lines running everywhere that its really hard to find and distinguish the components your dealing with, 2) there's discrepancies with 3rd party manuals, and 3) the community support is minimal. I think Nissan thought of this very carefully before they designed such complicated and confusing system to keep the DIY's paws off of it and give us no choice but to bow down and subject our broke pockets to their service advisors. Who's to say that they will actually fix the problem anyway, since dealers never really fix anything on the first visit and the more you come back, the more expensive the repair bill cost. That's how dealers screw over people.
Sorry for such a long post since you can tell that I'm also venting. But first, I'd invest on a real Nissan service manual. I'm not sure what it is but you can ask some in here since some of the org members have them. Second, just be very patient, research and research and research. Get an understanding of what each component does, study the schematics in the book. I've gone cross-eyed trying to read those little letters and numbers and to try to make some sense out of them. This is the only way to figure out how this whole system ticks. The other half of the battle is locating the components in question and that's when you need a good service manual. Everything else is procedural which the manual should cover.
Originally Posted by Mizeree_X
Hey, I know I have a 3rd gen, but I was having the same problems as you (EGR system not working properly). One thing I highly recommend is to get a vacuum gauge and make sure that all the vacuum sources going INTO the EGR solenoids and BPT system are working properly. I almost ordered a $100 EGRC solenoid thinking it was bad, when in reality it had a bad vacuum source. We rigged the car to pass by pulling a ported vacuum source (RPM dependent) and sticking it directly on the EGR valve. The 4th gen's EGR valve might be more complex, but I thought I'd share this info as the problem left me frustrated for weeks.
Mizeree_X,
I wish my VQ30DE's vacuum system is as simple as yours. I'm looking at the diagram for your 3rd gen and trying to find out exactly how you did that. What exactly is this RPM dependent vacuum source that you pulled and connected directly to the EGR valve?
krismax,
I've already pulled the EGR valve and cleaned the main vacuum hoses. That's the very first thing I did. The CEL light stayed off for a few days and came back with a new code for the EGRC solenoid valve. There's mainly 3 things that can go wrong which makes the EGR system malfunction: 1) bad vacuum, perhaps blockage somewhere in the vacuum tubes, 2) bad components, or 3) bad component power/ground circuits. The thing that makes them a pain is the way things are routed everywhere. BTW, has anyone had any bad component power/ground circuit, fixed it, and made the problem go away?
D1NOnly34,
It would be nice if only the source of the problem is consistent, ie: blocked vacuum hoses. Then that petrochemical cleaning would be very effective. But high mileage engines not only accumulates carbon build-ups but also the electrical components begin to fail as those things are subjected to extreme temperatures inside the engine. Plus electrical terminals within those components go bad in time, sometimes the entire circuit can go bad. So the problem source could be anything or all of the above. Without that, then simply doing the petrochemical cleaning would fix all EGR issues.
Thanks for the replies so far guys!
I wish my VQ30DE's vacuum system is as simple as yours. I'm looking at the diagram for your 3rd gen and trying to find out exactly how you did that. What exactly is this RPM dependent vacuum source that you pulled and connected directly to the EGR valve?
krismax,
I've already pulled the EGR valve and cleaned the main vacuum hoses. That's the very first thing I did. The CEL light stayed off for a few days and came back with a new code for the EGRC solenoid valve. There's mainly 3 things that can go wrong which makes the EGR system malfunction: 1) bad vacuum, perhaps blockage somewhere in the vacuum tubes, 2) bad components, or 3) bad component power/ground circuits. The thing that makes them a pain is the way things are routed everywhere. BTW, has anyone had any bad component power/ground circuit, fixed it, and made the problem go away?
D1NOnly34,
It would be nice if only the source of the problem is consistent, ie: blocked vacuum hoses. Then that petrochemical cleaning would be very effective. But high mileage engines not only accumulates carbon build-ups but also the electrical components begin to fail as those things are subjected to extreme temperatures inside the engine. Plus electrical terminals within those components go bad in time, sometimes the entire circuit can go bad. So the problem source could be anything or all of the above. Without that, then simply doing the petrochemical cleaning would fix all EGR issues.
Thanks for the replies so far guys!
max80228,
If you end up having a better luck than I am, report back and let us know how you fixed it. If you end up taking it to a shop and they fixed it, try to get some info on it. Thanks.
If you end up having a better luck than I am, report back and let us know how you fixed it. If you end up taking it to a shop and they fixed it, try to get some info on it. Thanks.
Originally Posted by max80228
Thanks for the many responces. I will try to clean the vacuum hose connections and see what happens. Thanks again.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,208
What might help is spraying massive amounts of throttle body cleaner inside the intake matifold. People say that you have to run your car while doing this, I don't know how you can do this because MAF will get no air passing thru it and the car will just die.
I would say just take off the intake, open the throttle body and just spay in some cleaner for like 2 seconds, put it back on run your car for a little bit and shut it off and do it again.
I would say just take off the intake, open the throttle body and just spay in some cleaner for like 2 seconds, put it back on run your car for a little bit and shut it off and do it again.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,397
The Haynes manual is better than Chiltons. It was very useful for me in my EGR problems. Shows you with pics and tells you how to check valves, solenoids, and tubing for excessive wear and failures. This check up takes less than 30 minutes to pinpoint your problem. And DIY replacement and cleaning is not that bad it just takes time. I replaced the faulty valve, cost me $170 for it, and I cleaned the tubing while was at it.
I hate the EGR system I'd like to seal it off. Just need some sort of dummy solenoids to relay correct signals to the ECU cause I would hate the CEL even more
Oh ya my original symptom was CEL for Hi/Low EGR flow.
I hate the EGR system I'd like to seal it off. Just need some sort of dummy solenoids to relay correct signals to the ECU cause I would hate the CEL even more
Oh ya my original symptom was CEL for Hi/Low EGR flow.
Originally Posted by 2DaMax
Mizeree_X,
I wish my VQ30DE's vacuum system is as simple as yours. I'm looking at the diagram for your 3rd gen and trying to find out exactly how you did that. What exactly is this RPM dependent vacuum source that you pulled and connected directly to the EGR valve?
Thanks for the replies so far guys!
I wish my VQ30DE's vacuum system is as simple as yours. I'm looking at the diagram for your 3rd gen and trying to find out exactly how you did that. What exactly is this RPM dependent vacuum source that you pulled and connected directly to the EGR valve?
Thanks for the replies so far guys!
. I have a VE30DE engine, by the way.
This thread has been helpful. I just took my car for smog and NO levels were just south of failing. I only have a JWT intake in my 130k 97 Max. My HC levels were also high, but for now I'm attributing that to my NGK platinum sparks that are 1 step cold.
I'm gonna check my vacuum and clean the valve and see what happens. Oh yeah, my exhaust is smelly... almost noxious.
Jae
I'm gonna check my vacuum and clean the valve and see what happens. Oh yeah, my exhaust is smelly... almost noxious.
Jae
can anyone show pics of the EGR? unfortunatly i have a chiltons manual and it sucks.. and i cant tell where this EGR valve is at.. im getting 03 06 tho.. EGR BPT valve...
HELP!!! arghhh
HELP!!! arghhh
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 5
"I've also been having problems in these areas, what I plan on doing is getting something called a "petrochemical cleaning", at least thats what I think its called. You can do it at the dealer for like $100. "
I called my local dealer and they told me there was no such thing as a "petrochemical cleaing". They said it would cost $380 for 4 hours of labor to clean the EGR with carb cleaner! I was like no thanks I think I'll just do it myself. They did mention that I would need to replace an S pipe for $40 that can't be cleaned.
I called my local dealer and they told me there was no such thing as a "petrochemical cleaing". They said it would cost $380 for 4 hours of labor to clean the EGR with carb cleaner! I was like no thanks I think I'll just do it myself. They did mention that I would need to replace an S pipe for $40 that can't be cleaned.
Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 34
I use "SEA FOAM" when cleaning the fuel injectors and EGR system on my Chevy Blazer with the 4.3 engine which is prone to major carbon build-up.
I have been using this for some time now and it works GREAT!!! It can be purchased at NAPA and CAR QUEST. NAPA keeps it behind the counter since most of the local dealerships and garages use it for cleaning fuel injectors. (...and they charge customers $100 or more for this !!!!!! Autozone and Advance do not stock it.
I plan to use it on the max this weekend before I change the plugs. Check out their web site for a good description and how it's properly used.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTun...Gas.htmcleaner.
It cost $6.80 per can and $5.50 per bottle and it is worth every single penny of it! Be prepared to FOG the neighborhood when using this stuff though.
Good Luck.
I have been using this for some time now and it works GREAT!!! It can be purchased at NAPA and CAR QUEST. NAPA keeps it behind the counter since most of the local dealerships and garages use it for cleaning fuel injectors. (...and they charge customers $100 or more for this !!!!!! Autozone and Advance do not stock it.
I plan to use it on the max this weekend before I change the plugs. Check out their web site for a good description and how it's properly used.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTun...Gas.htmcleaner.
It cost $6.80 per can and $5.50 per bottle and it is worth every single penny of it! Be prepared to FOG the neighborhood when using this stuff though.
Good Luck.
the links is dead...
and again, i want to try to clean the EGR valve but im hesitant cause i dont know were it is.... no one can take like 2 minutes to pop the hood and snap a pic of the EGR?! cmon now fellow orgerz!! help a new out! lol
and again, i want to try to clean the EGR valve but im hesitant cause i dont know were it is.... no one can take like 2 minutes to pop the hood and snap a pic of the EGR?! cmon now fellow orgerz!! help a new out! lol
Originally Posted by XeroX
the links is dead...
and again, i want to try to clean the EGR valve but im hesitant cause i dont know were it is.... no one can take like 2 minutes to pop the hood and snap a pic of the EGR?! cmon now fellow orgerz!! help a new out! lol
and again, i want to try to clean the EGR valve but im hesitant cause i dont know were it is.... no one can take like 2 minutes to pop the hood and snap a pic of the EGR?! cmon now fellow orgerz!! help a new out! lol
Originally Posted by Supa Lao
I was looking earlier today so I took some pics for you.
Here's what it looks like from a Haynes manual.
Pic is taken from the drives side fender. It's pretty much right under the tubing for the air intake.
Here's what it looks like from a Haynes manual.
Pic is taken from the drives side fender. It's pretty much right under the tubing for the air intake.
sweet thanks alot!!! about time lol
BTW, can i go ahead and just pull those hoses off? or will i mess anything up? im a newb as you can c...what exactly do i pull off and clean? or replace? is it that big hose that i pull off and clean with TB cleaner? or is it the smaller one.. if im thinking correctly i member someone saying that the smaller tube on the top of the valve is simply a vacume hose? and the larger tube is where the exaust is inputed or outputed? in other words, now that we know where the EGR valve is, what hoses do i clean and what hoses do i leave alone?
BTW, can i go ahead and just pull those hoses off? or will i mess anything up? im a newb as you can c...what exactly do i pull off and clean? or replace? is it that big hose that i pull off and clean with TB cleaner? or is it the smaller one.. if im thinking correctly i member someone saying that the smaller tube on the top of the valve is simply a vacume hose? and the larger tube is where the exaust is inputed or outputed? in other words, now that we know where the EGR valve is, what hoses do i clean and what hoses do i leave alone?
Originally Posted by XeroX
can anyone show pics of the EGR? unfortunatly i have a chiltons manual and it sucks.. and i cant tell where this EGR valve is at.. im getting 03 06 tho.. EGR BPT valve...
HELP!!! arghhh
HELP!!! arghhh
My friend had the code for egr valve before changed it no change, checked vacumm lines all good. Tested the BPT valve wouldn't hold vacuum. Replaced it today and boom diaphram on egr valve now works. Car sounds a lot louder and gained back some lost power.
Pulling off hoses is a pain though they have been on there for a long time and are tight you may break a line. I snapped one when testing vacuum lines got some new lines at the local shop for a few dollars.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 17
EGR Cleaning
Originally Posted by maximagoodcar
"I've also been having problems in these areas, what I plan on doing is getting something called a "petrochemical cleaning", at least thats what I think its called. You can do it at the dealer for like $100. "
I called my local dealer and they told me there was no such thing as a "petrochemical cleaing". They said it would cost $380 for 4 hours of labor to clean the EGR with carb cleaner! I was like no thanks I think I'll just do it myself. They did mention that I would need to replace an S pipe for $40 that can't be cleaned.
I called my local dealer and they told me there was no such thing as a "petrochemical cleaing". They said it would cost $380 for 4 hours of labor to clean the EGR with carb cleaner! I was like no thanks I think I'll just do it myself. They did mention that I would need to replace an S pipe for $40 that can't be cleaned.
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