OK, I'm really gonna change my name to post-*****. Anyway, I've been searching all day to track down this prob on the net and calling friends who have/do own 4th gens. Here is the problem:
I have a 1996 GLE with 112,000 miles on it. I just bought it a month ago and aside from a glitchy sensor which Jepht20 was kind enough to help me with, it had no immediate problems except that it jumped in and out of 4th gear going 40ish. I can live with that but here is the main problem. (Did this on my 3rd gen too till it ****ed up the tranny so bad I had to replace it. Partly my dad's fault.) When coming from a dead stop and shifting to 2nd gear it's pretty rough. It does it even after the engine and tranny are very warm. Also, when the tranny comes out of 4th gear like I was saying, it's pretty rough. Sometimes with an audible clunk. Shifting to 3rd gear and then to 4th are OK. I am going to do a valve body mod either was as I heard it helps your tranny a lot. Anybody who has had this prob or a clutch replaced please help! I'll do a write-up on it when I (hopefully) solve the problem. I know I'm a pain in the *** but I'll do some how-to's when I get done to make up for it

 

ok, so is it really jerky going into second, or does it struggle and grind?

 

u have an auto right? and how does it come out of 4th gear? what does it do? go into 3rd? sounds like u have someting wrong with ur o/d

 

It's jerky. No grinding or struggling. I feel it release and the pop into second but it pops hard. Coming from 4th, it goes into 3rd again. I read the manual about this (turn off the o/d etc.) but again the problem is it's jerky going back into third. I have an automatic. EDIT: A more severe version of this problem blew my torque converter in the 3rd gen eventually. It was the TC according the the tranny shop anyway. They were a bunch of screw-ups though.

 

alright, does it make noise? does it rev up then catch? does it grind?

 

Grinding no, sometimes if it's a bad one it makes an audible "thunk". It doesn't rev up and then catch again though. Maybe I'm just hella paranoid over the new car.

 

u have a loose connection in ur o/d, happened in my 240, and it was a pain.

 

Is it a "Take it to the dealer" pain or is it something I can blow a saturday on and fix?

 

i never fixed it, it wasn't so bad on my car, but it would happen often, after a while it went away. i bet if u took it to the dealer they'd say time for a new trans....

 

Lol, even if you just need new break pads they'll tell you that you need a new tranny. I'm lucky though, I got a pretty honest dealer. I know a guy who works there too so i don't get hosed over too bad. Thanks for the help though, I'll go do some research and see what I find hopefully I can fix it.

 

One more thing, sorry to double post, but my O/D light flashed at me like 8 times this morning. I forgot about it until now (you try to remember stuff that happened at 4:30 in the morning ), is that a dead giveaway or does the O/D light mean something is really hosed with my tranny. last question. promise.

 

that means the trans computer has a code i would suggest taking it to the dealer and ur friend, to get a better assesment and to diagnos the issue

 

is there a way to self diagnose tranny codes?

 

Google turns up nothing. I'm gonna be researching this all night. I'll write-up what i find tommorrow morning.

 

good luck dude

 

isn't there a tranny test thing in the manual?

where you like put to N then 1 then D then P then the O/D light will flash codes like the CEL.?

 

I've beenm trying to find a method and the codes themselves for 15 mintues. Nada.

 

i think the haynes manual has the testing procedure and the codes.

 

let me get mine and try and check for you guys

 

ok, here is how to do it. It's on page 7B-2 in the hayes manual.
Warm up the engine to operating temp
Turn off the engine (wait 5 secs before proceeding.)
Turn engine to ACC
Put overdrive in "on"
Move shifter to P
Turn ignition to "on" but do not start engine.
OD off will come on for 2 seconds.
If it doesn't come on there's nothing wrong with the tranny.
Turn engine to OFF
Turn ignition ON but do not start
Move lever to D
Turn ignition OFF
Turn O/D off
Turn ignition to ON and move shifter to 2
Turn O/D on
Move Shifter to 1
Turn O/D off
Depress gas all the way to the floor and release
COmputer displays info VIA O/D light.
Codes to follow
It's like entering playstation cheats from hell.

 

"The computer for the automatic transacle has a self diagnostic capability; it continually monitors important information sensor and output actuator circuits for malfunctions. When a monitored circuit is damaged, shorted or disconnected, a diagnostic trouble code is stored in the computers memory. At a dealer service department, computer memory with a proprietary diagnostic instrument know as CONSULT. Codes can also be extracted with some generic scanners. However, neither the CONSULT nor scanners are generall available to the home mechanic, so the following procedure is provided to enable you to extract any stored codes by using the OD OFF indicator light on the insrument cluster"......

 

a. if the first ofd the ten-flash sequence is long, the revolution sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected
b. if the second of the ten flashes is long, the vehicle speed sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected
c. if the third flash is long, the throttle position sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected

 

OK, give me 20 mins to type in all the codes. EDIT: NM, looks like somebody's ahead of me.

 

d. if the fourth flash is long, the shift solenoid valve A circuit is shorted or disconnected
e. if the 5th is long, the shift solenoid valve B circuit is shorted or disconnected
f. if the 6th is long, the overrun clutch solenoid is shorted or disconnected

 

g. if the 7th flash is long, the torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit is shorted or disconnected.
h. if the 8th flash is long, the fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or the computer power source circuit is damaged
i. if the 9th flash is long, the engine speed signal circuit is shorted or disconnected

 

j. if the 10th flash is long, the line pressure solenoid valve circuit is shorted or disconnected
k. if the OD OFF indicator light flashes on and off, alternating back and forth between long flashes, and long pauses, all of equal lenth, either the battery power is low, the battery has been disconnected for a long time, or the battery has been connected incorrectly.

 

unrelated: Dammit, I just tried to donate so I can search and they aren't taking any more donations right now

 

l. 1998 and earlier models: if the OD OFF indicator light doesnt come back on, either the neutral start/back-up light switch, or the overdrive switch or the throttle position switch circuit is disconnected, or the computer is damaged.
m. in 1999 models: if the OD OFF indicator lightcomes on but doesnt flash, either the neutral start/back-up light switch, or the overdrive switch or the throttle position switch circuit is disconnected or the computer is damaged

 

except for the vehicle speed sensor and throttle position sensor, bothof which are covered in chap 6, reparing the rest of malfunctions is beyond the scope of the home mechanic. if one or more of thse codes is displayed, have the transaxle repaired by a dealer service dept. or automatic trans shop

 

Well, I'm off to diagnose. Thanks to all for helping. Looks like I'l probably be making a trip to Rob Doll Nissan tommorrow. Hope this doesn't cost me out the bum. Edit: It flashed a code 9. Speed sensor which I replaced yesterday. I guess I have to reset it. Now for a new knock sensor

 

check the codes, and tell us whats up