Brrrr... it's cold out.. what's good for our 4th gens?
#2
i know!
new oil for the cold, make sure you get stuff that is good for your climate!
you can always pour in fuel injector cleaner and the like(can't hurt)
there are plenty of fuel addatives but how much they help especially for cold winter driving is debatable.
the best thing to do imo for the winter is to let your car WARM UP and make sure it has good oil(that works when its super cold and isn't like gum).
new oil for the cold, make sure you get stuff that is good for your climate!
you can always pour in fuel injector cleaner and the like(can't hurt)
there are plenty of fuel addatives but how much they help especially for cold winter driving is debatable.
the best thing to do imo for the winter is to let your car WARM UP and make sure it has good oil(that works when its super cold and isn't like gum).
#3
Originally Posted by Torgus
i know!
new oil for the cold, make sure you get stuff that is good for your climate!
you can always pour in fuel injector cleaner and the like(can't hurt)
there are plenty of fuel addatives but how much they help especially for cold winter driving is debatable.
the best thing to do imo for the winter is to let your car WARM UP and make sure it has good oil(that works when its super cold and isn't like gum).
new oil for the cold, make sure you get stuff that is good for your climate!
you can always pour in fuel injector cleaner and the like(can't hurt)
there are plenty of fuel addatives but how much they help especially for cold winter driving is debatable.
the best thing to do imo for the winter is to let your car WARM UP and make sure it has good oil(that works when its super cold and isn't like gum).
Its a fuel additive that is often used to keep your gas from freezing.
Which can happen if you have to little gas in the tank.
#4
Substitute 10W30 for 5W30 grade oil before cold weather is expected. Use some gas line anti freeze as a precaution. Cold car start: let run engine for a minute, then drive off slowly, apply light load acceleration on the engine and tranny, untill they both gradually warm up.
#9
Originally Posted by Zipp028
i agree with nismo its pretty hard throw to put it in gear and the clutch gets harder too! makes me feel bad for my max.
#11
That really sucks for you guys and the cold. I live in sunny San Diego ad it's a beautiful day out here today! I just waxed my car, it's maybe 70 degrees not a cloud in the sky and really sunny. Well I guess that's why I pay so much to live out here.
-Chris
-Chris
#13
Not sure I agree with you on this. 10W30 is a thicker grade, and the last thing you want to do is make it that much harder for the first bit of oil to reach the cylinders when you crank it up. I'd stick with whatever you normally run, and make sure (as usual) that it's fresh. Baby it a little more than normal, and letting it warm up a tad bit longer is all you really need to do.
Originally Posted by twiggy144
Substitute 10W30 for 5W30 grade oil before cold weather is expected. Use some gas line anti freeze as a precaution. Cold car start: let run engine for a minute, then drive off slowly, apply light load acceleration on the engine and tranny, untill they both gradually warm up.
#14
Originally Posted by minsbang
what are some of the things that we can do to help our max go through the winter?
any fluids that we can pour in the gas tank?(besides gas)
any fluids that we can pour in the gas tank?(besides gas)
Best thing for your Max in the winter is a garage.
#15
Like ds03, I think people typically use the higher viscoity oil in the summer and lower viscosity oil in the winter. 10W30 is a higher viscosity (more like a solid) than 5W30, so I'm not sure if twiggy's advice is correct. If anyone has had more experience with this, please jump in.
#17
cold?!?! whats that?
We had a HIGH of -2f last week (minnesota)
you couldn't pay me enough to move
Use that HEET (I think thats what its called) to take the water out, or just keep your tank at LEAST 1/4 tank. I just keep her above 1/4 tank and park inside at night.
One of my friends left her explorer outside (with only a little gas in it) and her gas froze up. It wasn't good to say the least.
We had a HIGH of -2f last week (minnesota)
Well I guess that's why I pay so much to live out here.
Use that HEET (I think thats what its called) to take the water out, or just keep your tank at LEAST 1/4 tank. I just keep her above 1/4 tank and park inside at night.
One of my friends left her explorer outside (with only a little gas in it) and her gas froze up. It wasn't good to say the least.
#18
Originally Posted by lilgrebbie
cold?!?! whats that?
We had a HIGH of -2f last week (minnesota)
you couldn't pay me enough to move
Use that HEET (I think thats what its called) to take the water out, or just keep your tank at LEAST 1/4 tank. I just keep her above 1/4 tank and park inside at night.
One of my friends left her explorer outside (with only a little gas in it) and her gas froze up. It wasn't good to say the least.
We had a HIGH of -2f last week (minnesota)
you couldn't pay me enough to move
Use that HEET (I think thats what its called) to take the water out, or just keep your tank at LEAST 1/4 tank. I just keep her above 1/4 tank and park inside at night.
One of my friends left her explorer outside (with only a little gas in it) and her gas froze up. It wasn't good to say the least.
#19
Maybe is a good ideea to use 5w30 all year round... and kep the tank full as much as possible...Is not the gasoline that is frozen..is the watter in the tank ,that forms there due condensation... Condensations forms there due low fuel level...
#21
Originally Posted by Torgus
i know!
new oil for the cold, make sure you get stuff that is good for your climate!
you can always pour in fuel injector cleaner and the like(can't hurt)
there are plenty of fuel addatives but how much they help especially for cold winter driving is debatable.
the best thing to do imo for the winter is to let your car WARM UP and make sure it has good oil(that works when its super cold and isn't like gum).
new oil for the cold, make sure you get stuff that is good for your climate!
you can always pour in fuel injector cleaner and the like(can't hurt)
there are plenty of fuel addatives but how much they help especially for cold winter driving is debatable.
the best thing to do imo for the winter is to let your car WARM UP and make sure it has good oil(that works when its super cold and isn't like gum).
#23
Originally Posted by bosa1
It gets thinner as it get's hotter. That is why we warm up the engine and keep the rpms low until the engine is at the correct temperature. You want things properly lubed.
#25
Originally Posted by ds03
Not sure I agree with you on this. 10W30 is a thicker grade, and the last thing you want to do is make it that much harder for the first bit of oil to reach the cylinders when you crank it up. I'd stick with whatever you normally run, and make sure (as usual) that it's fresh. Baby it a little more than normal, and letting it warm up a tad bit longer is all you really need to do.
agreed, the thicker the oil, the more damage done to the upper engine components because it takes more time for teh heat to make it less viscous, so while the oil is becoming less viscous, your engine is increasing wear. Id stick with the 5w30 for the winter, and switch back to a more viscous grade in the summer months
#26
Originally Posted by mansurxk
agreed, the thicker the oil, the more damage done to the upper engine components because it takes more time for teh heat to make it less viscous, so while the oil is becoming less viscous, your engine is increasing wear. Id stick with the 5w30 for the winter, and switch back to a more viscous grade in the summer months
#27
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Posts: n/a
Synthetic is the best oil for any motor, period. And anyone that says differently is fooling themselves. Synthetic has a MUCH higher viscosity breakdown temperature than conventional motor oil. There is a reason why high performance cars come with synthetic from the factory.
Cliffnotes: Synthetic can handle sustained higher temperatures, lower temperatures, and still maintain it's (superior to conventional oil) lubrication.
Cliffnotes: Synthetic can handle sustained higher temperatures, lower temperatures, and still maintain it's (superior to conventional oil) lubrication.
#29
i use 5w30 now i live near boston....i let my car warm up...what i mean by that is it start it with no light on,heated seats,or heater on. i let is go untill the revs fall within a 100th of where they usually are and then i baby it...luckily work is 5 minutes away so for now i'm putting very few miles on my max! oh and keep a 1/4 tank or more as said above...
#30
Originally Posted by formz
Synthetic is the best oil for any motor, period. And anyone that says differently is fooling themselves. Synthetic has a MUCH higher viscosity breakdown temperature than conventional motor oil. There is a reason why high performance cars come with synthetic from the factory.
Cliffnotes: Synthetic can handle sustained higher temperatures, lower temperatures, and still maintain it's (superior to conventional oil) lubrication.
Cliffnotes: Synthetic can handle sustained higher temperatures, lower temperatures, and still maintain it's (superior to conventional oil) lubrication.
synthetic comes in 5w30 and 10w30, no one mentioned synthetic, if something is thicker, then its not going to get where it wants when the car starts, thats the bottom line, you can handle higher temps and lower temps, but your not immune to very high viscosity in cold weather. tahts why you use 10w30 in the summertime, cuz its thicker, its got better heat properties cuz it takes longer to break down due to the hotter weather. viscosity plays a big role when you start your car(most wear occurs when you first start the car) thats why you need to warm up the car when its cold, so 5w30 is better when its cold out, synthetic or not
any oil is reprocessed, its all alcohol and acids, when oil breaks down, these are the 2 major by products, these are extracted and then used to make new oil, whether it be conventional or synthetic, (i had a friend who was a Chem Eng at Hatco Fuels)
#33
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Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by mansurxk
synthetic comes in 5w30 and 10w30, no one mentioned synthetic, if something is thicker, then its not going to get where it wants when the car starts, thats the bottom line, you can handle higher temps and lower temps, but your not immune to very high viscosity in cold weather. tahts why you use 10w30 in the summertime, cuz its thicker, its got better heat properties cuz it takes longer to break down due to the hotter weather. viscosity plays a big role when you start your car(most wear occurs when you first start the car) thats why you need to warm up the car when its cold, so 5w30 is better when its cold out, synthetic or not
any oil is reprocessed, its all alcohol and acids, when oil breaks down, these are the 2 major by products, these are extracted and then used to make new oil, whether it be conventional or synthetic, (i had a friend who was a Chem Eng at Hatco Fuels)
any oil is reprocessed, its all alcohol and acids, when oil breaks down, these are the 2 major by products, these are extracted and then used to make new oil, whether it be conventional or synthetic, (i had a friend who was a Chem Eng at Hatco Fuels)
#34
Originally Posted by formz
um.. the post right above mine asked about synthetic oils, so I answered them. And synthetic comes in many more flavors than just 5w30 and 10w30. And synthetic protects MUCH better in cold weather than convential motor oil. I ran 10w30 in my 400hp 140k mile DSM every year I owned it in every temperature extreme with no problems whatsoever.
#35
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Originally Posted by maxima98vspec
ok so what's the down side of synthetics????????
-matt
#36
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Originally Posted by maxima98vspec
ok so what's the down side of synthetics????????
1) Cost. It's usually a couple bucks more per quart.
2) It's thinner. If you have a leak that conventional oil may not be able to get into, synthetic might. I just switched my 124k mile motor from conventional to synthetic without a drop spilling anywhere. So don't think just because of higher mileage you will have a leak.
#37
Originally Posted by formz
The two downsides to synthetics:
1) Cost. It's usually a couple bucks more per quart.
2) It's thinner. If you have a leak that conventional oil may not be able to get into, synthetic might. I just switched my 124k mile motor from conventional to synthetic without a drop spilling anywhere. So don't think just because of higher mileage you will have a leak.
1) Cost. It's usually a couple bucks more per quart.
2) It's thinner. If you have a leak that conventional oil may not be able to get into, synthetic might. I just switched my 124k mile motor from conventional to synthetic without a drop spilling anywhere. So don't think just because of higher mileage you will have a leak.
#39
Originally Posted by nismos14
what really sux is how the clutch and trans feel so sticky, and mushy, the trans feels like i have to force it into gear
#40
Winterize the max?
5-30W, Castrol GTX for cheap motor oil. Mobil-1 Synthetic if you don't mind the extra money. Our factory manual calls for 5-30W anyway.
Use OEM oil filters for a better anti-drain back valve. Most damage does occur when the engine starts, thus get the best anti-drain back valve you can.
Anyone mention window washer fluid? Get the stuff that has anti-freeze in it, like Rain-x, which works good for me.
Heet is what I used for removing water from my gas. Basically it's isopropyl alcohol...which mixes with water. Alcohol also has a lower freezing temp than water.
5-30W, Castrol GTX for cheap motor oil. Mobil-1 Synthetic if you don't mind the extra money. Our factory manual calls for 5-30W anyway.
Use OEM oil filters for a better anti-drain back valve. Most damage does occur when the engine starts, thus get the best anti-drain back valve you can.
Anyone mention window washer fluid? Get the stuff that has anti-freeze in it, like Rain-x, which works good for me.
Heet is what I used for removing water from my gas. Basically it's isopropyl alcohol...which mixes with water. Alcohol also has a lower freezing temp than water.