Is this a possible mod?
Is this a possible mod?
I want my lights to turn off (even if I have them on) when I turn my car off. I don't want automatic lighting, i dont like it, I just want to be able to have my lights turn off when I turn my car off, like automtic lighting, but still use the light switch. Is this possible?
Originally Posted by WillMax95
I want my lights to turn off (even if I have them on) when I turn my car off. I don't want automatic lighting, i dont like it, I just want to be able to have my lights turn off when I turn my car off, like automtic lighting, but still use the light switch. Is this possible?
well there is an easier way. the car has relays already, you just need to find them and rewire them oh and you should use the accessory wire as the turn on, not the ignition wire (yes they are different). this way the light would shut off while you are cranking the car.
my moms avalon, yes my mom, her lights are automatic and i think they are okay, but they can get kind of annoying, so i want my idea to work the way it does...but, i need some diagrams or something of what to do with the wires and relays and crap. i dont mind if the lights are on all the time, most new cars do that anyway, my moms does.
Because the car doesn't have any stock headlight/ parking light relays the easiest way to do it is by interuping the parking/ headlight power by installing some relays under the dash on the ignition/ stering wheel harness. The relays would switch off the headlights when ever the car is turned off. This would still allow you to turn on and off the headlights from the OEM switch when the key is turned to ignition or accessory (your preference). Most if not all nissans povide an ignition wire that does not give power when the starter is cranking (useful in this type of situation). Let me know if you are familiar enough with wiring/ relays and I will do a write up with diagrams/ wire colors.
My toyota tundra does this: The headlights/park lights turn off when the ignition key is turned to the off position and removed while the light switch on the steering column is still on the ON position. However, you can turn the switch to OFF, then back to ON and the headlights/park lights would turn on, w/o the ignition key. Also you can pull the highbeam switch to turn on the highbeams w/o the ignition key. I wish that could be done to the Maxima as well.
with the setup I discribed above you would not be able to turn on the headlights when the key is out unless you installed an extra switch, however you would still be able to flash the highbeams with the OEM switch when the key is out
Where would you wire the +12v of the relay to if I want the highbeams to flash with the OEM switch? And what type of relay would I need?
Originally Posted by jm5464
with the setup I discribed above you would not be able to turn on the headlights when the key is out unless you installed an extra switch, however you would still be able to flash the highbeams with the OEM switch when the key is out
Originally Posted by 2DaMax
Where would you wire the +12v of the relay to if I want the highbeams to flash with the OEM switch? And what type of relay would I need?
The best relays I have found are BOSH 30 amp (make sure they are 12 volt), they seem to be the most reliable and would handle more than enough amperage for your headlight system. Finding them could be difficult though. I would check a hardware store or a car stereo shop. They should be no more than $5. (you will need 3). I know Radio Shack carries somthing similar but they are $6 a piece and are not as high of quality, but, if you are unable to find BOSH relays these will work fine.
After work tomarrow I will draw up and post a wiring diagram to better explain how to do this.
Originally Posted by Matt_NZ
Just curious, but why are headlights in cars usually designed to still work even when the car is off? Why isn't it standard for the lights to turn off when the car is switched off?
Easy easy. Here is what you do. remove the bottom portion of the steering column trim and the bottom dash panel. YOu will need an automotive relay, some primary wire and a fuse holder with a 5 amp fuse. First locate the grey/yellow wire in the steering column (this is the headlight wire). Cut this wire and solder/butt connect a legnth of primary wire to each end.(soldering is much better)
Then attach those two wires to the 87 and 30 poles on the relay(does not matter what wire is connected to which pole). next connect the 85 pole of the relay to chassis ground. Then you need to locate the black/yellow wire in the cars ignition harness(located in a loom under the dash. Look for the loow leading to the ignition switch) strip this wire with a razor knife (do not cut) then wrap wire around the bare ignition wire and solder the connection. After you solder this wire wrap tape around it very well and put a ziptie over the tape, this is also the wire that gets the inline fuse holder and 5 amp fuse. Finally attach this wire to the 86 pole on your relay and there you go. for myself being an MECP certified installer this would take 30 minutes or so, the average novice with moderate ability could do this in an hour to an hour and a half.
Then attach those two wires to the 87 and 30 poles on the relay(does not matter what wire is connected to which pole). next connect the 85 pole of the relay to chassis ground. Then you need to locate the black/yellow wire in the cars ignition harness(located in a loom under the dash. Look for the loow leading to the ignition switch) strip this wire with a razor knife (do not cut) then wrap wire around the bare ignition wire and solder the connection. After you solder this wire wrap tape around it very well and put a ziptie over the tape, this is also the wire that gets the inline fuse holder and 5 amp fuse. Finally attach this wire to the 86 pole on your relay and there you go. for myself being an MECP certified installer this would take 30 minutes or so, the average novice with moderate ability could do this in an hour to an hour and a half.
Cool instructions plurco. I used to install mobile audio systems for a living so I know this is simple. I was going to start tracing the wires that go to the headlights and ignition but you beat me to it. You reduced my work by at least 15 minutes, thanks! I wonder why jm5464 stated that 3 relays are needed? I still would like to see his wiring diagram. Perhaps I should do some checking of my own still. Plurco do you have factory installed security system on your Maxima? Perhaps that is why multiple relays are needed.
OK, the Chiltons manual has this headlight schematic for 93-98 Maximas w/o DRL. The schematic also includes the theft warning light relay. If anyone has a Haynes manual, please check yours to see if its the same. So here it goes:
1) left headlight - from the 15amp fuse (hot) to red/yellow or red lead, then to the lighting switch. The theft warning light relay is wired inline between the hot source to the lighting switch. The +12v lead for the theft warning light relay (left headlight) is also red/yellow or red. From the theft warning light relay, a red/black or yellow lead is connected to the high beam lead, same color, of the headlight.
2) right headlight - from the 15amp fuse (hot) to red/white lead, then to the lighting switch. The theft warning light relay is wired inline between the hot source to the lighting switch. The +12v lead for the theft warning light relay (right headlight) is also red/white. From the theft warning light relay, a red/green or light green/black lead is connected to the high beam lead, same color, of the headlight.
Now if you can connect another relay (total of 2 for left and right headlight circuits) after the theft warning light relay and before the lighting switch, then it won't affect the security system's ability to flash the headlights when the alarm is tripped. And now, the headlights will turn off automatically when you turn the key off and remove it from the ignition switch. I'll try to produce a good scan of the schematic off of my Chiltons manual.
-Dennis
1) left headlight - from the 15amp fuse (hot) to red/yellow or red lead, then to the lighting switch. The theft warning light relay is wired inline between the hot source to the lighting switch. The +12v lead for the theft warning light relay (left headlight) is also red/yellow or red. From the theft warning light relay, a red/black or yellow lead is connected to the high beam lead, same color, of the headlight.
2) right headlight - from the 15amp fuse (hot) to red/white lead, then to the lighting switch. The theft warning light relay is wired inline between the hot source to the lighting switch. The +12v lead for the theft warning light relay (right headlight) is also red/white. From the theft warning light relay, a red/green or light green/black lead is connected to the high beam lead, same color, of the headlight.
Now if you can connect another relay (total of 2 for left and right headlight circuits) after the theft warning light relay and before the lighting switch, then it won't affect the security system's ability to flash the headlights when the alarm is tripped. And now, the headlights will turn off automatically when you turn the key off and remove it from the ignition switch. I'll try to produce a good scan of the schematic off of my Chiltons manual.
-Dennis
Ok, I finished the example wiring diagrams and the "How To" page.
They are located at this url:
http://www.bassmintaudio.com/maxima/...ght%20diagram/
Good Luck, feel free to ask if you have any questions.
They are located at this url:
http://www.bassmintaudio.com/maxima/...ght%20diagram/
Good Luck, feel free to ask if you have any questions.
Originally Posted by jm5464
Ok, I finished the example wiring diagrams and the "How To" page.
They are located at this url:
http://www.bassmintaudio.com/maxima/...ght%20diagram/
Good Luck, feel free to ask if you have any questions.
They are located at this url:
http://www.bassmintaudio.com/maxima/...ght%20diagram/
Good Luck, feel free to ask if you have any questions.
Originally Posted by 2DaMax
jm5464,
Is a 5amp fuse enough for three 30amp fuses?
Is a 5amp fuse enough for three 30amp fuses?
In the diagrams I drew the current coming through the 5 amp fuse is only used to trigger the relays, not to power your headlights. Therefore a five amp fuse will carry more than enough current.
I hope I answered your question if not let me know.
You got the jist right!!! Thanks. I'm going to try it this weekend.
Originally Posted by jm5464
I’m a little confused about what exacly you are asking, but I think I get the jist.
In the diagrams I drew the current coming through the 5 amp fuse is only used to trigger the relays, not to power your headlights. Therefore a five amp fuse will carry more than enough current.
I hope I answered your question if not let me know.
In the diagrams I drew the current coming through the 5 amp fuse is only used to trigger the relays, not to power your headlights. Therefore a five amp fuse will carry more than enough current.
I hope I answered your question if not let me know.
actually this is not a lazyness issue for me, my car does not have any sort of dinger to let me know I have left my lights on and I have had to be jumped oof at least 10 times in two years. I am going to do this project complete with a full writeup and pics. I will keep you all posted.
Originally Posted by plurco
actually this is not a lazyness issue for me, my car does not have any sort of dinger to let me know I have left my lights on and I have had to be jumped oof at least 10 times in two years. I am going to do this project complete with a full writeup and pics. I will keep you all posted.
Plus, if you turn your car off with your lights on do you REALLY need a "dinger" to tell you your lights are on? The Speed/tachometer is illuminated and the area in front of your car is lit up! How do you not know your lights are on?!?!?
Great write up I will try soon
I had a Legacy that did this and it was a great feature. I wish all cars were available with this feature not because I am lazy but because I (and my girlfriend who drives the car 75% of the time) have left my lights on before. I am an intelligent and thoughtful person but when driving in fog or rain in THE DAYLIGHT (Stringztoo) you can not see that the lights are on when you get out of the car. I have disabled the chime in the car because I like to have the doors open and play the radio when cleaning the car and hate listening to an obnoxious ding for 45 minutes. So Stringztoo as you can see I am not lazy, nor am I an idiot. Please attack people on some other website. I appreciate the work and thought these guys put into this thread, even if it was not a mod I would do, and there is no room on the .org for the immature bashing by you and a select other few.
Originally Posted by Stringztoo
Try fixing your broken "dinger". That's possible and do-able. You don't own a 2003 or 2004 vehicle... it's not wired to have auto lights.
Plus, if you turn your car off with your lights on do you REALLY need a "dinger" to tell you your lights are on? The Speed/tachometer is illuminated and the area in front of your car is lit up! How do you not know your lights are on?!?!?
Plus, if you turn your car off with your lights on do you REALLY need a "dinger" to tell you your lights are on? The Speed/tachometer is illuminated and the area in front of your car is lit up! How do you not know your lights are on?!?!?
In other words if you have no inovative or creative thought to add to the discussion then go respond on some post about carbon fiber door pilars or some garbage like that.
It's not really a matter of being lazy, for me its having one cool feature in my old car which also has a positive benefit. In this case, avoiding unnecessary discharge of a battery due to headlights left on all night. You must be perfect for not ever leaving your headlights on all night unintensionally. Not all of us are like you. Out of the 20 years that I've been driving, I can count a few dozens of times that I've accidentally left the headlights on my car on, and I carry a battery charger in my trunk because I got tired of begging for a jump especially in odd hours of the night where I am leaving a nightclub to go home at 5 or 6 o'clock in the morning.
Originally Posted by Stringztoo
Jezzuz people how lazy are you???
Originally Posted by Stringztoo
Try fixing your broken "dinger". That's possible and do-able. You don't own a 2003 or 2004 vehicle... it's not wired to have auto lights.
Plus, if you turn your car off with your lights on do you REALLY need a "dinger" to tell you your lights are on? The Speed/tachometer is illuminated and the area in front of your car is lit up! How do you not know your lights are on?!?!?
Plus, if you turn your car off with your lights on do you REALLY need a "dinger" to tell you your lights are on? The Speed/tachometer is illuminated and the area in front of your car is lit up! How do you not know your lights are on?!?!?
If you acctually read what this forum is about you would know that we have found a way to WIRE 4th gens to accomodate this feature.
JUST BECUASE THE CAR DIDN'T COME WITH THE FEATURE DOESN'T MEAN IT IS NOT POSSIBLE!
Originally Posted by Stringztoo
Try fixing your broken "dinger".
actually many cars didnt come with the chime. i know a few guys with se-ls that have absolutely not function chimes. honestly, get off his back. what is the purpose of most wiring mods? Why would you want a sound when your car locks? you could just look in the car, or here the click, or look at your lights blink. why would you rewire your corners to be brighter? they are bright enough already.
here is the case in point where you learn to relax
I have updated my 2nd diagram that allows you to turn on your headlights when the car is off after you have done the mod using an overide switch.
What I changed is: I added a relay to the overide circuit so you would be able to use a low amperage better looking switch, that is if you can find a 50 amp relay to take the place of the switch.
A good place to look for parts is electronics parts sites on the web. Just search for 50 amp relay or any other parts your looking for.
To view the new diagrams and the how to visit:
http://www.bassmintaudio.com/maxima/...ght%20diagram/
Let me know if you have any questions,
-Jusitn (jm5464)
What I changed is: I added a relay to the overide circuit so you would be able to use a low amperage better looking switch, that is if you can find a 50 amp relay to take the place of the switch.
A good place to look for parts is electronics parts sites on the web. Just search for 50 amp relay or any other parts your looking for.
To view the new diagrams and the how to visit:
http://www.bassmintaudio.com/maxima/...ght%20diagram/
Let me know if you have any questions,
-Jusitn (jm5464)





