may get a 5-speed!!!
01-17-2004, 01:02 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 210
may get a 5-speed!!!
i may get a 5-speed in a couple of months for graduation and wont have to deal with my automatic..i know how to drive manual but never on a maxima! its gonna be a 4th gen and i just wanted to know the diff. i heard you get a lot more acceleration out of it and theyre just that much more fun to drive..i know im just making a dumb thread but im looking for a 4th gen...what year should i look for?? all i want is a standard!!
01-17-2004, 02:00 AM
#2
As far as moding:
The 95-96's will accept a JWT ECU for a higher redline and more power. The main reason to get this would be the addition of a MEVI (Variable intake). If your not interested in the MEVI or heavy moding, this won't really be an issue.
Some 97's can also use the ECU, but may get engine codes. In 97 the exterior was re-designed
98's and 99's have slightly different interiors. The 99's cannot accept the JWT ECU, at least yet. In 99 the SE-L was available with a few little aesthetic additions. Some 99's have California emissions and don't accept some mods quite as well as Fed spec 99's or earlier models.
There's a ton more, but I'm tired and going to bed.
The 95-96's will accept a JWT ECU for a higher redline and more power. The main reason to get this would be the addition of a MEVI (Variable intake). If your not interested in the MEVI or heavy moding, this won't really be an issue.
Some 97's can also use the ECU, but may get engine codes. In 97 the exterior was re-designed
98's and 99's have slightly different interiors. The 99's cannot accept the JWT ECU, at least yet. In 99 the SE-L was available with a few little aesthetic additions. Some 99's have California emissions and don't accept some mods quite as well as Fed spec 99's or earlier models.
There's a ton more, but I'm tired and going to bed.
01-17-2004, 02:06 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 210
Originally Posted by MAXimumHP
As far as moding:
The 95-96's will accept a JWT ECU for a higher redline and more power. The main reason to get this would be the addition of a MEVI (Variable intake). If your not interested in the MEVI or heavy moding, this won't really be an issue.
Some 97's can also use the ECU, but may get engine codes. In 97 the exterior was re-designed
98's and 99's have slightly different interiors. The 99's cannot accept the JWT ECU, at least yet. In 99 the SE-L was available with a few little aesthetic additions. Some 99's have California emissions and don't accept some mods quite as well as Fed spec 99's or earlier models.
There's a ton more, but I'm tired and going to bed.
The 95-96's will accept a JWT ECU for a higher redline and more power. The main reason to get this would be the addition of a MEVI (Variable intake). If your not interested in the MEVI or heavy moding, this won't really be an issue.
Some 97's can also use the ECU, but may get engine codes. In 97 the exterior was re-designed
98's and 99's have slightly different interiors. The 99's cannot accept the JWT ECU, at least yet. In 99 the SE-L was available with a few little aesthetic additions. Some 99's have California emissions and don't accept some mods quite as well as Fed spec 99's or earlier models.
There's a ton more, but I'm tired and going to bed.
01-17-2004, 08:45 AM
#6
This is my dilemma: I will be getting a 5-speed in a few months and I'd ideally get a 98 in great shape with low miles. But there seem to be a lot more 99s for sale, at least in the online listings. 97s and 98s can both take the JWT ECU with only minor issues, but not the 99s yet, correct? Here's my question: are the bells and whistles on the 99 nice enough to warrant just getting a 99 even though there's no ECU mod yet? I probably wouldn't be doing ECU until next year anyway. I guess what I need to know is what were the new features on the 99 SE?
01-17-2004, 10:21 AM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 210
Originally Posted by Nismo
how about spend a couple thousand and convert and use the money you saved and go turbo, sc, body kit, paint job ect ect....
oh yeah and i want a 98..cuz arent those the best for 4th gens?
couldnt agree with you moreeeee 
01-17-2004, 10:30 PM
#11
Originally Posted by MistaPeerez
arent they lighter??
01-17-2004, 11:38 PM
#12
I have a 95 SE 5-speed. I'd say its really fun to drive, the response from a 5-speed is more robust and you don't have to wait for that annoying lag from automatic tranny's. On the other hand, its not much fun when all you do is stop and go driving and that's pretty much how it is here driving in Los Angeles. Sometimes, things break up and you get a pretty long stretch of non-stop driving and that's when the rewards of owning a 5-speed comes in nicely.
If you are getting that car from a private party that you really don't know much about, see if he'll let you take the car to a trusted mechanic and have it inspected for any possible problems. If he pulls out some type of agreement that releases him of any fiduciary responsibilities should the car fall apart after you buy it, then that's your queue to really have the car inspected thoroughly before you drop your hard earned dollar because there's a lot of people out there that will screw you point blank, org member or not.
Here's a few things to inspect for:
1) Pull the spark plugs and inspect them, if there's too much oil on the plug, the valve cover gasket needs replacing. That's usually a $400 job from a dealer, probably half the price if you take it to a private mechanic.
2) Inspect the CV boots, if they are torn, they'll definitely need replacing ASAP otherwise prolong driving with torn boots can render the drive axles damaged and would need replacing too, very expensive repair there.
3) Inspect for leaks under the engine and transmission. Pay special attention around the transmission area, if you see leaks its probably the differential bearings, very very expensive repair.
4) While test driving, listen for clunks and other abnormal noises. If you feel some thuds coming from the shifter or if gears aren't catching enough, that could be bad syncros, another very very expensive repair.
5) If the clutch has a lot of play in it, its probably worn and need replacing. The clutch is hydraulic in our car and there's no way to adjust them since they automatically adjust as it wears. Another expensive repair that you don't want to get stuck with.
That's all I can think off right now. I know you can't cover all bases and there are defiinite risks from buying a used car, but by thorough inspection you can at least have the piece of mind and the confidence that you made the right choice. I'm sure some of the org members have something to contribute. Hope everything goes well with your purchase and I hope you get a good car that have been well maintained. Remember, watch out for those punks that will tell you that the car runs great and end up screwing you in the end.
If you are getting that car from a private party that you really don't know much about, see if he'll let you take the car to a trusted mechanic and have it inspected for any possible problems. If he pulls out some type of agreement that releases him of any fiduciary responsibilities should the car fall apart after you buy it, then that's your queue to really have the car inspected thoroughly before you drop your hard earned dollar because there's a lot of people out there that will screw you point blank, org member or not.
Here's a few things to inspect for:
1) Pull the spark plugs and inspect them, if there's too much oil on the plug, the valve cover gasket needs replacing. That's usually a $400 job from a dealer, probably half the price if you take it to a private mechanic.
2) Inspect the CV boots, if they are torn, they'll definitely need replacing ASAP otherwise prolong driving with torn boots can render the drive axles damaged and would need replacing too, very expensive repair there.
3) Inspect for leaks under the engine and transmission. Pay special attention around the transmission area, if you see leaks its probably the differential bearings, very very expensive repair.
4) While test driving, listen for clunks and other abnormal noises. If you feel some thuds coming from the shifter or if gears aren't catching enough, that could be bad syncros, another very very expensive repair.
5) If the clutch has a lot of play in it, its probably worn and need replacing. The clutch is hydraulic in our car and there's no way to adjust them since they automatically adjust as it wears. Another expensive repair that you don't want to get stuck with.
That's all I can think off right now. I know you can't cover all bases and there are defiinite risks from buying a used car, but by thorough inspection you can at least have the piece of mind and the confidence that you made the right choice. I'm sure some of the org members have something to contribute. Hope everything goes well with your purchase and I hope you get a good car that have been well maintained. Remember, watch out for those punks that will tell you that the car runs great and end up screwing you in the end.
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