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My Tranny Is Dead, but theres more to be said.

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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 02:11 AM
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My Tranny Is Dead, but theres more to be said.

A couple weeks ago my Maxima died. It acted as if the Clutch had gone out (no power to the weels) but it happened fast, really fast, like all of a sudden. The last time the clutch went out it was over the course of a few weeks. Anyways this had my mechanic thinking that it was the transmission. I have since bought an ACT stage 1 clutch that is awaiting installation. Yesterday I had my car towed away to a mechanic that I can trust knows what hes doing (the other one had already began to start a list of things I needed, Including a new starter even though mine is currently working fine)

As for now I am awaiting a response from my new mechanic. Assuming that the transmision has failed, what would I expect to pay for a new stock 5 speed tranny before/after labor? Also, what would it cost to have a six speed with gears 1 through 5 identical to the stock configuration but have that 6th gear that I've always wanted for the freeway (if thats even possible in a maxima: I had a friend that had a set-up like that in an El-Camino)?

Aside from that Im taking this "opportunity" of having my car in the shop to get a few things done that Ive wanted for a while. IE: New distrubuter, plugs, wires, cpu, etc. If there are any particular brands that you all swear by I would certainly take the advise.

Something that I've always been interested in was a Turbo or Super charger. I read the article on the super charger and it sounds extremely promising however I dont like the idea of driving around with a constant High Pitched squeel.
I have seen a turbo Kit out there for I think about $4K and was wondering what you all have experienced/heard about these systems.

This car is definetely an everyday driver. I often drive cross country and comfortable drivability is as important as reliablility.

That being said: as a last resort there is always N20. I would rather have a wet system than a dry and I was curious to know If there was a "minimum" amount of boost I would have to commit to with a wet system... I do not want to risk having too large a shot.

Thanks in advance. Im sorry about the number of questions above. I HAVE read the other threads so please dont send me links to them based soley on the topic. I tried to find the answers for myself but if there were answers that i missed in the other threads I apologize. Any help in any particular catagory is greatly appreciated.



Thanks Again,
Ian Thorburn.
Old Jan 30, 2004 | 03:14 AM
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www.jerryromenissan.com lists the tranny at ~$2200. If you're going that route, you might as well get the LSD tranny, as it's actually cheaper. You'll make up the difference quickly when you add in a new driveaxle (LSD uses a different driver's side axle).

So, you're probably looking at ~$3k for a stealership to put it in...maybe $2500 for a regular mechanic.

If I were you (and I'm in the same situation), I'd check www.car-part.com for a used LSD tranny. If you know of a good and trusted transmission shop, they could go over it to see if anything's wrong/needs fixing. You could stay under $1k going this route. I just bought an LSD tranny w/104k miles and a 6mo. warranty for $550. There are 2 more for sale on that site...

Whatever you do, I'd definitely take this opportunity to add in VLSD for little/no extra charge.
Old Jan 30, 2004 | 03:14 AM
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the nitrous, Im currently on a 35 shot (smallest shot NX provides). If it were any smaller it would be useless so dont worry about that

Nitrous express wet #20923
Old Jan 30, 2004 | 05:21 AM
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Our cars don't have distributors or plug wires - we have a coil ignition system; so each cylinder has an individual "coil pack" mounted directly above the spark plug that produces the spark when directed by the ECU. Since the coil fits directly over the plug, there are no wires.

As far as maintenance, you should probably check your coils - since 99's have a reputation for going bad. They are 70-90 each depending on where you buy them. There are instructions in the FAQ on how to check the resistance on the coils, if you're not getting any codes showing cylinder misfire. Easy to check and change-out yourself if needed - no reason to pay the dealership/garage.
Old Jan 30, 2004 | 07:45 AM
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Have a bit of faith. It could just be the clutch. I'm not sure your model or year number, but I had the same situation just two weeks ago. My car just would not engage at all. the last time my clutch went out it was a couple of weeks, this time it just stopped working. It turned out to just be the clutch...
Old Jan 30, 2004 | 11:28 AM
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Wow... I didnt expect to have replys so quick, I posted this morning at like 2 am... awsome!

OK.. yeah a 35 shot would definetaly be fine... I cant remember where but someone was telling me that for a wet system to work it needed to use bigger numbers... Im glad to hear that its not the case.

Coil packs... good lord I had no idea... Yeah I feel like an idiot.
Now I need to know if there are better coil packs that I should get. Thanks again.

what makes the clutch do that... broken spring or something? Also why do synchronized transmissions not let you shift without the clutch? I used to have an old chevy, when the clutch went out you could still shift as long as you timed the gears right.
Old Jan 30, 2004 | 11:33 AM
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I went to www.car-part.com and I realized that I dont know if I want a locking or non-locking differential.
Old Jan 30, 2004 | 12:23 PM
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Ahhh yeah, blown 4 gen tranny. Hint- loose the ACT, I blew mine 3x no thanks to it.
Old Jan 30, 2004 | 12:30 PM
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when you looked at your engine did you see a distrubuter or wires? lol. your ecu is fine. you can't buy 'high performace' coil packs. and there would be no need for them either.

if you have the cash: JWT Ecu with NO2 daughter board and a raised rev limiter.

what turbo costs 4k? cm.com? ya buy the stage 2. *laffs*

good luck with your tranny...good luck with modding.
Old Jan 30, 2004 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by IanJThor
I went to www.car-part.com and I realized that I dont know if I want a locking or non-locking differential.
Fairly sure that locking diff = LSD
Old Jan 30, 2004 | 01:21 PM
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I thought that LSD was a limited Slip?
Old Jan 30, 2004 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Torgus
when you looked at your engine did you see a distrubuter or wires? lol. your ecu is fine. you can't buy 'high performace' coil packs. and there would be no need for them either.

if you have the cash: JWT Ecu with NO2 daughter board and a raised rev limiter.

what turbo costs 4k? cm.com? ya buy the stage 2. *laffs*

good luck with your tranny...good luck with modding.


Yeah your totally right on that, For some reason I never acually thought of it until now. Should have noticed I was missing what I thought were key components.

As for the Turbo.. yeah it was on www.customaxima.com and the price was 4699 for a stage 1 and I think 5500 for a stage 2... I was relying on memory when I said 4k. oops.

"what turbo costs 4k? cm.com? ya buy the stage 2. *laffs* "
Whats so funny... I think I missed something.
Old Jan 30, 2004 | 01:53 PM
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you just blew your tranny and your asking about NOS?


if i were you id get the car back on the road again.

unless you have a few thousand to throw away your barking up the wrong tree.

get ur car fixed, i would stay away from chain stores like AAMCO , COTTMAN, ect..
Just my $0.02



my rebuild cost me approx $2k with clutch replacement.



if the clutch went all the sudden could it be the slave cylinder or hydrolic push rod thing (whatever its caled) that works the hydrolic clutch?????
Old Jan 30, 2004 | 02:38 PM
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yeah it could be... Im not sure.. Ill let you guys know as soon as I talk to my mechanic.

As for getting my car back on the road... of course the sooner the better but Id rather get some of this stuf out of the way while im already racking up the shop time.
Old Jan 30, 2004 | 03:51 PM
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I just changed my 5spd. i got a used tranny with 100k (non-lock) for 800$. ive been looking for one for about 2 months and never found anything any cheaper that wasn't beat up around here (new england). But i did all the work myself, it wasn't too too bad and you dont need too many tools, but if you dont do that sort of stuff i wouldnt try it.

You can check to see if your trani is a posi unit by looking at the tranny code on the fire wall. if it ends with a VA its a posi (locking diff) if it just has an A its non-locking. But if your talking about putting boost into your car i would look for a stronger tranny, these dont stand up to a lot of power, especially with an act clutch.

Also, about the plugs...i think you might need colder plugs with the nos.

good luck
Old Jan 31, 2004 | 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by IanJThor
I thought that LSD was a limited Slip?
locking = LSD = Limited Slip Differential
non-locking/open = no LSD

The locking differential is much better than the non-locking (for obvious? reasons), but it requires a new drive axle.
Old Jan 31, 2004 | 05:27 AM
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ian the reason i laughed is the custom maxima turbo is rather untested. last i heard they had problems with stage 2(kept blowing up motors) also there dynograph doesn't look like a real one it looks like a pohtochop dyno graph. so i'd never buy my turbo from them. good luck with your car.
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