Hesitation @ 3400rpm @WOT??? HELP!!!
#1
Hesitation @ 3400rpm @WOT??? HELP!!!
I need some help, guys.
Let me explain the symptoms of what my max is doing. I didn't notice it until last Friday. When I am at WOT or almost WOT, there is a hesitation at 3400-3500 rpms for just a momemt. It just kind of feels like I let off the gas and then get back on again. After that, it pulls hard until redline. I am concerned what this is, and I am stumpted why it would only happen at that one place on the rpm curve.
Any advise to help me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Let me explain the symptoms of what my max is doing. I didn't notice it until last Friday. When I am at WOT or almost WOT, there is a hesitation at 3400-3500 rpms for just a momemt. It just kind of feels like I let off the gas and then get back on again. After that, it pulls hard until redline. I am concerned what this is, and I am stumpted why it would only happen at that one place on the rpm curve.
Any advise to help me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
#4
I had a suggestion from somebody that said it might be Spark Plug wires? I don't know. If so, does anyone know a good aftermarket plug wire, and where to get them?
Others please give diagnosis...
Others please give diagnosis...
#5
Originally Posted by Brudaddy
I had a suggestion from somebody that said it might be Spark Plug wires? I don't know. If so, does anyone know a good aftermarket plug wire, and where to get them?
Others please give diagnosis...
Others please give diagnosis...
our cars don't have plug wires..plugs are in a coil pack
#7
I didn't know that they were in coil pack. How hard are the coil packs to change out by yourself, and do you think that might be the problem, knight71?
Image, I don't know about you, but my max's hesitation is only at certain rpm's. I don't know...it is weird. Except for that spot, you would never know anything is wrong.
Image, I don't know about you, but my max's hesitation is only at certain rpm's. I don't know...it is weird. Except for that spot, you would never know anything is wrong.
#9
Originally Posted by Brudaddy
I didn't know that they were in coil pack. How hard are the coil packs to change out by yourself, and do you think that might be the problem, knight71?
Image, I don't know about you, but my max's hesitation is only at certain rpm's. I don't know...it is weird. Except for that spot, you would never know anything is wrong.
Image, I don't know about you, but my max's hesitation is only at certain rpm's. I don't know...it is weird. Except for that spot, you would never know anything is wrong.
i know splitfire make coilpacks but im not sure if they will fit our cars. if you find coilpack for our cars as for install they dont look that hard but i would still find out.
is your car automatic?
#12
It doesn't feel like the clutch. I have had one of those go bad on another car.
Fuel filter...should be a decently cheap way to find out if that is the problem, huh?
If the plugs are bad, SprintMax, are they decently easy to install myself. And do you know a good place/brand of aftermarket (maybe higher performance plugs...if such a thing)? If I am going to have to put new ones in, I want good ones, and red ones, if possible to match my car.
Thanks for the replies...keep them coming...
Fuel filter...should be a decently cheap way to find out if that is the problem, huh?
If the plugs are bad, SprintMax, are they decently easy to install myself. And do you know a good place/brand of aftermarket (maybe higher performance plugs...if such a thing)? If I am going to have to put new ones in, I want good ones, and red ones, if possible to match my car.
Thanks for the replies...keep them coming...
#15
Originally Posted by Brudaddy
what is pcv again?
All these dang codes on here...get kind of confusing...ha ha
All these dang codes on here...get kind of confusing...ha ha
PCV valve will cost about $5-$10. When changing spark plugs use NGK brand only, you can go with either copper or platinum plugs, platinum costs a bit more but they last longer, easy to change, you need the proper tools.
#17
99 SE-L's have Swirl Control Valves, which change the airflow before the combustion chamber so the fuel burns more completely at low RPM, helping emissions. I believe these valves open fully at around 3400 - 3500 RPM, so maybe this is what you're noticing?
#18
by it opening fully, it should be allowing the full amount of power to be used, right? Well, I don't know if that is what I am noticing, but it is worth giving it a try to see if it cures it. Where would be a good place to pick up or order that Swirl Contron Valve?
Any other comments?
Any other comments?
#19
Sorry, I should have been more clear. Your car already has the Swirl Control Valves. I belive they are located in the lower intake manifold.
The valves are part-way closed before 3500 RPM so fuel burns better, then they open up after 3500 RPM to allow air to flow unobstructed.
The valves are part-way closed before 3500 RPM so fuel burns better, then they open up after 3500 RPM to allow air to flow unobstructed.
#20
Originally Posted by JeffesonM
Sorry, I should have been more clear. Your car already has the Swirl Control Valves. I belive they are located in the lower intake manifold.
The valves are part-way closed before 3500 RPM so fuel burns better, then they open up after 3500 RPM to allow air to flow unobstructed.
The valves are part-way closed before 3500 RPM so fuel burns better, then they open up after 3500 RPM to allow air to flow unobstructed.
So basically what you're saying is that hesitation at 3500 rpm is normal?
#21
not this type of hesitation....how do I know that when I am the one asking for questions?..............................Because it didn't used to do it until about a week ago. For that reason, I don't think it is the swirl control valves alone.
#22
Have you done anything to your car recently?
I think you may need a tune-up. You say you have 'no CEL messages'...what do you mean by this? You're CEL isn't on, or you looked for codes and got an 0505?
As for the spark-plugs, I'd recommend only using the OEM NGK plugs. They're easy to change...only tools needed are a socket wrench; spark-plug socket; long extension; gap guage/adjuster (unless you get the plats); locktight; and a torque wrench.
All of these tools can be borrowed from Autozone (if you leave a deposit).
As for the clutch, if you're travelling on the highway (uphill, preferably) and you nail the gas pedal, does the tach climb before the speedometer? If so, your clutch may be on it's way out. Usually the high gears go first...try this in 5th.
I think you may need a tune-up. You say you have 'no CEL messages'...what do you mean by this? You're CEL isn't on, or you looked for codes and got an 0505?
As for the spark-plugs, I'd recommend only using the OEM NGK plugs. They're easy to change...only tools needed are a socket wrench; spark-plug socket; long extension; gap guage/adjuster (unless you get the plats); locktight; and a torque wrench.
All of these tools can be borrowed from Autozone (if you leave a deposit).
As for the clutch, if you're travelling on the highway (uphill, preferably) and you nail the gas pedal, does the tach climb before the speedometer? If so, your clutch may be on it's way out. Usually the high gears go first...try this in 5th.
#23
Originally Posted by Brudaddy
not this type of hesitation....how do I know that when I am the one asking for questions?..............................Because it didn't used to do it until about a week ago. For that reason, I don't think it is the swirl control valves alone.
my response was to jeffeson's comment as indicated:
Originally Posted by JeffesonM
Sorry, I should have been more clear. Your car already has the Swirl Control Valves. I belive they are located in the lower intake manifold.
The valves are part-way closed before 3500 RPM so fuel burns better, then they open up after 3500 RPM to allow air to flow unobstructed.
#24
I know, knight, I am just telling you that the hesitation is not normal.
sryth, I don't see any check engine lights. Tell me how to check for codes and I will see about that. As for the clutch, the tack is the same going up the hill as normal. It doesn't do anything weird. I don't think it is the clutch.
Other mambers with this type problem...please post and help me out...thanks and keep the comments coming.
sryth, I don't see any check engine lights. Tell me how to check for codes and I will see about that. As for the clutch, the tack is the same going up the hill as normal. It doesn't do anything weird. I don't think it is the clutch.
Other mambers with this type problem...please post and help me out...thanks and keep the comments coming.
#25
how to check
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html
what they mean
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecudecoder.html
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html
what they mean
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecudecoder.html
#27
Lordy, as well know. 99 se-ls dont have the big screw........so you cant just do that test.
I'm having a similar problem....of this sudden hesitation.....then go.
However mine happens ocasionally throughout the power band usually between 2500-3500 then 4k to 6k it happens intermitently.
Dave b recommended I replace my injectors so I just got a set off JAY25 to try. Other than that...my car has fairly new plugs, fuel filter and brand new coil packs.
My problem also is a very noticeable change in power......................like a loss in power.
I'm having a similar problem....of this sudden hesitation.....then go.
However mine happens ocasionally throughout the power band usually between 2500-3500 then 4k to 6k it happens intermitently.
Dave b recommended I replace my injectors so I just got a set off JAY25 to try. Other than that...my car has fairly new plugs, fuel filter and brand new coil packs.
My problem also is a very noticeable change in power......................like a loss in power.
#28
Originally Posted by infinitiblast
Lordy, as well know. 99 se-ls dont have the big screw........so you cant just do that test.
I'm having a similar problem....of this sudden hesitation.....then go.
However mine happens ocasionally throughout the power band usually between 2500-3500 then 4k to 6k it happens intermitently.
Dave b recommended I replace my injectors so I just got a set off JAY25 to try. Other than that...my car has fairly new plugs, fuel filter and brand new coil packs.
My problem also is a very noticeable change in power......................like a loss in power.
I'm having a similar problem....of this sudden hesitation.....then go.
However mine happens ocasionally throughout the power band usually between 2500-3500 then 4k to 6k it happens intermitently.
Dave b recommended I replace my injectors so I just got a set off JAY25 to try. Other than that...my car has fairly new plugs, fuel filter and brand new coil packs.
My problem also is a very noticeable change in power......................like a loss in power.
let us know if changing the injectors will help! by the way, how much did u pay for them?
#29
Originally Posted by Brudaddy
I need some help, guys.
Let me explain the symptoms of what my max is doing. I didn't notice it until last Friday. When I am at WOT or almost WOT, there is a hesitation at 3400-3500 rpms for just a momemt. It just kind of feels like I let off the gas and then get back on again. After that, it pulls hard until redline. I am concerned what this is, and I am stumpted why it would only happen at that one place on the rpm curve.
Any advise to help me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Let me explain the symptoms of what my max is doing. I didn't notice it until last Friday. When I am at WOT or almost WOT, there is a hesitation at 3400-3500 rpms for just a momemt. It just kind of feels like I let off the gas and then get back on again. After that, it pulls hard until redline. I am concerned what this is, and I am stumpted why it would only happen at that one place on the rpm curve.
Any advise to help me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
I dealt with the same thing on my 99 maxima for months. It would "hesitate" right at 3500 until 5000 then it would be normal. I tried changing the spark plugs and some of the other suggestions you have received. Finally one day the check engine light flashed when it started the hesitation, only problem was it didn't store the code. It finally threw a code, it was a misfire in cylinder 3. I replaced the coil pack and it was like a whole new car. Chances are, since the 99's are notorious for coil pack failures, it is a coil pack.
#33
Originally Posted by sryth
Have you done anything to your car recently?
As for the spark-plugs, I'd recommend only using the OEM NGK plugs. They're easy to change...only tools needed are a socket wrench; spark-plug socket; long extension; gap guage/adjuster (unless you get the plats); locktight; and a torque wrench.
As for the spark-plugs, I'd recommend only using the OEM NGK plugs. They're easy to change...only tools needed are a socket wrench; spark-plug socket; long extension; gap guage/adjuster (unless you get the plats); locktight; and a torque wrench.
FYI:
Not Locktight, Anti-Sieze. Anti-Sieze. Do NOT use locktight on spark plugs.
#35
Originally Posted by bosa1
FYI:
Not Locktight, Anti-Sieze. Anti-Sieze. Do NOT use locktight on spark plugs.
Not Locktight, Anti-Sieze. Anti-Sieze. Do NOT use locktight on spark plugs.
#37
Okay, I don't know why, but the past few days, I have tried to see if it is still hesitating and it won't do it. I cannot figure it out. It just runs smooth right up to red line now. The only thing I did different was put 93 octane in there. I did't do that until Sunday night though. I was not feeling the hesitation even before that. Anyone?????
#38
Originally Posted by Brudaddy
Okay, I don't know why, but the past few days, I have tried to see if it is still hesitating and it won't do it. I cannot figure it out. It just runs smooth right up to red line now. The only thing I did different was put 93 octane in there. I did't do that until Sunday night though. I was not feeling the hesitation even before that. Anyone?????