Ignition coil question...
aftermarket brands
Nissan recommends both mitsu and hans as replacements when they discoverd the problem with the coils, so its really personal preferance on which brand to get. Im happy with my Mitsu's and still running strong after 10k I put on them.
My car was hiccuping at idle for over 6 months. And recently, my TCS light would come on while driving on the highway. So I took my car in for service at a local dealership. They said that my cylinder #4 was misfiring which was causing my car to hiccup and to trigger the TCS light to come on. So they replaced the ignition coil for that cylinder for $220. I didnt realize how easy it was until reading this thread. I had previously installed new spark plugs, so changing ignition coils isnt that much harder according to the posts. My TCS light doenst come on anymore. However after a couple of weeks my car is starting to hiccup once again. It is really pi**ng me off. I just changed another one of my O2 sensors today b/c it was setting off the check engine light. They wanted to charge me $250 to replace to front right sensor. I bought it for around $100 and put it in myself. Ill drive the car around and see if it solves the vibration problem.
So is the general consensus is that its EASY to install new coils? All I need is a couple of screwdrivers and a socket set? How long should it take me to do all 6?
I mean, if I can assemble a gas-grill and change a tire, this shouldn't be a problem?
I mean, if I can assemble a gas-grill and change a tire, this shouldn't be a problem?
It's real easy. Here are the coils:

Just disconnect all 6 connectors and remove all of the screws (2 for each coil). Pop out the old coils and put in the new ones. Follow the spark plug how to: http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=33

Just disconnect all 6 connectors and remove all of the screws (2 for each coil). Pop out the old coils and put in the new ones. Follow the spark plug how to: http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=33
maximaisokay, that is what they are trying to tell you....you probably won't need a whole set. Almost anyone I have ever heard of having a problem, says that they replace at most #1,3,5 and they are good again. No need to buy six, when you might just buy 3 or less.
Why replace something that doesn't need it? I mean, that is like saying, "I got a nail in one of my new tires the other day. I could have it patched, but I am just going to go ahead and spend $500 and get all four new tires again."
Anyway, I think it is in this post, but here you go again...Jerryromenissan.com.
I think they give discount if you say you were referred to them by the .org. They ought to be like $65 or $70 then.
Anyway, I think it is in this post, but here you go again...Jerryromenissan.com.
I think they give discount if you say you were referred to them by the .org. They ought to be like $65 or $70 then.
Interesting, I finally got my car to throw a code and it was Cylinder 4. I'm going to do the resistance tests this weekend and see what I come up with. I wouldn't be suprised if there is more than one bad coil...
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by poly12
1999 Maxima SE - I have recently noticed that the engine seems to miss when stopped at a light idling - the engine seems to run fine once throttle is applied.
The Check Engine light has not come on. Does the shudder/miss at stop indicate a bad coil? I've looked around and noticed a number of people have had to replace these prematurely.
Seeing as I can't search - could someone post and threads that may be appropriate?
Thanks to all for your help.
Poly
The Check Engine light has not come on. Does the shudder/miss at stop indicate a bad coil? I've looked around and noticed a number of people have had to replace these prematurely.
Seeing as I can't search - could someone post and threads that may be appropriate?
Thanks to all for your help.
Poly
Trust me on this one, one (or perhaps more, but I really doubt it) of your ignition coils is defective, maybe not defective ENOUGH to trigger a severe "cylinder misfire" code.
- thank you BOSS for saving me time and money, for I would've replaced 10 other engine components well in access of $1k had you not informed me. You're the greastest!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Brudaddy
Why replace something that doesn't need it? I mean, that is like saying, "I got a nail in one of my new tires the other day. I could have it patched, but I am just going to go ahead and spend $500 and get all four new tires again."
Anyway, I think it is in this post, but here you go again...Jerryromenissan.com.
I think they give discount if you say you were referred to them by the .org. They ought to be like $65 or $70 then.
Anyway, I think it is in this post, but here you go again...Jerryromenissan.com.
I think they give discount if you say you were referred to them by the .org. They ought to be like $65 or $70 then.
For instance, just a few weeks ago I remember someone sold ALL 6 OEM NISSAN coils for a 99 Max SE on ebay (brand new in the box!) for $220 ending bid!!!! CAN YOU BELIEVE THAT???? That is one killer deal! I mean if you take the regular price, even the discounted one, you pay 6 * 65 = $390 for all 6, NOT INCLUDING TAX!!!!
So trust me on this one, be patient, check ebay and you WILL find 6 new coils for $200 - I DID.
Originally Posted by Shift_Power
I had 5 then 3 die on me. Just waiting for good old #1 - Fricking coils and Nissan who obstinately refuses to admit a problem.
Boss, if the ebay ones are OEM like Nissan puts in there...are they good? I mean, I have heard that Nissan was putting Hanshin in our cars when they were made, and they are crap. Now the ones to get are the Mitsubishi ones, and people say they are a lot better. Any comments?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Brudaddy
Boss, if the ebay ones are OEM like Nissan puts in there...are they good? I mean, I have heard that Nissan was putting Hanshin in our cars when they were made, and they are crap. Now the ones to get are the Mitsubishi ones, and people say they are a lot better. Any comments?
If you read nissan tsb, you'll find out that Nissan changed the manufacturers of the 4th gen coil packs for the 98/99 models in order to improve their quality because 95 - 97 models also had known issues with coils. However, what happened was a disaster! The coils for 98/99's from the new manufacturer were even worse! That is why 98/99's are prone to coil failure way more often than are 95, 96, and 97.
Originally Posted by maximaisokay
Boss, what is the key word in ebay?
On ebay I always do keyword search with all of the following:
1st I try: "maxima ignition"
if no satisfactory results, I do: "maxima coils"
if no results again I do: "maxima coil"
People name them differently all the time. That is why you must do coils separate from coil because some post it as "99 Maxima coil packs" and others may do it as "ignition coils for 99 Maxima" or just "coils for 99 Maxima".
good luck...you WILL find them, just be patient!
Thanks for the info, Boss. Does it hurt to run you car if you have a bad coil pack? Also, I posted way earlier in this thread that mine hesitates at like 3500rpm at WOT until like 3800rpm. Then, it just pulls hard all the way up to redline. Is this a coil problem as well?
I just installed 6 new coils and am happy to report a successful repair!
No more bumps at idle, AND the eninge is much more responsive and sounds like it did when it was brand new (my neighbors won't be happy about that, but F 'em!)
Thanks to all who pointed me to the links to do this and for verifying parts and giving me the confidence to do this job. I saved $200-$400 over what mechanics wanted to charge me, plus I got a new ratchet set as well.
My next project is to replace some belts that are squeaking when I start the car with a cold engine. The mechanic said he would charge $150 for that. Bah!
-Mike
No more bumps at idle, AND the eninge is much more responsive and sounds like it did when it was brand new (my neighbors won't be happy about that, but F 'em!)
Thanks to all who pointed me to the links to do this and for verifying parts and giving me the confidence to do this job. I saved $200-$400 over what mechanics wanted to charge me, plus I got a new ratchet set as well.
My next project is to replace some belts that are squeaking when I start the car with a cold engine. The mechanic said he would charge $150 for that. Bah!
-Mike
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by FastTimes
I just installed 6 new coils and am happy to report a successful repair!
No more bumps at idle, AND the eninge is much more responsive and sounds like it did when it was brand new (my neighbors won't be happy about that, but F 'em!)
Thanks to all who pointed me to the links to do this and for verifying parts and giving me the confidence to do this job. I saved $200-$400 over what mechanics wanted to charge me, plus I got a new ratchet set as well.
My next project is to replace some belts that are squeaking when I start the car with a cold engine. The mechanic said he would charge $150 for that. Bah!
-Mike
No more bumps at idle, AND the eninge is much more responsive and sounds like it did when it was brand new (my neighbors won't be happy about that, but F 'em!)
Thanks to all who pointed me to the links to do this and for verifying parts and giving me the confidence to do this job. I saved $200-$400 over what mechanics wanted to charge me, plus I got a new ratchet set as well.
My next project is to replace some belts that are squeaking when I start the car with a cold engine. The mechanic said he would charge $150 for that. Bah!
-Mike
Originally Posted by BOSS
You saved $200-400? What do u mean? Why would u have a mechanic change coils in the first place? It's a 15 minute job for all six. That's how long it took me and I'm not even mechanically inclined.
It took me an hour to do replace them because it took a while to figure out how to remove the coil near the driver window side. I finnaly figured out I had to loosen a flange temporarily to get to it.
Originally Posted by maximaisokay
fast time what link did you order your new coils? What kind of belts are you going to get?
I have no idea which belt is making the noise. It only happens when I start the car when the engine is cold.
anyone know what kind of code a failed coil would give?
My CEL is on and i got it pulled at autozone. the code was P1320...either that or it was P1230...can't remember
but it did say something about misfire or ignition failure and i do have a 99
My CEL is on and i got it pulled at autozone. the code was P1320...either that or it was P1230...can't remember
but it did say something about misfire or ignition failure and i do have a 99
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by MaximaPower
anyone know what kind of code a failed coil would give?
My CEL is on and i got it pulled at autozone. the code was P1320...either that or it was P1230...can't remember
but it did say something about misfire or ignition failure and i do have a 99
My CEL is on and i got it pulled at autozone. the code was P1320...either that or it was P1230...can't remember
but it did say something about misfire or ignition failure and i do have a 99
The CEL (or SES light to be exact) will never go on with defective coil, unless the coil is so weak that it causes a SEVERE cylinder misfire. Only then will the ECU throw a "CYLINDER #X MISFIRE" code, after which you know which coil to swap/change/replace.
As an example, when one of my coils was deteriorating, I felt the hesitations and what not for about 4+ months until finally one day I got a code because it misfired so much.



