has anyone done the DR Mod and had any problems after doing so?

 

lots of people have done it, but there is some debate as to how bad it is for the tranny.

i wouldnt do it, a rebuild costs 1500+, but if your going to anyway at least get a tranny cooler.

good luck

 

are there some significant gains in doing this? and where would i get a tranny cooler? easy/hard to install?

 

drop resistor instruction >> http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=255799

hayden tranny cooler >> https://maxima.org/shoptalk/sub_modi...er/index.shtml

u can get hayden tranny cooler from local autoshop... not too hard to install. basically zip-tie the tranny cooler on the radiator and re-route your tranny cooler hoses into hayden's.

 

so if racing for a 1/4 mile, would there be noticeable gains in doing this DR mod?

 

My purpose is more to save the trans than to get gains but it does that too. Without it the trans is really slow shifting when you run higher power ie 300 HP or so. Without the mod the wear on the clutches is much more severe.

 

How much can you gain from this mod, and how much does it cost?

 

i saw people saying that amsoil ATF drops temps by 20-50 degrees. would this work in place of a tranny cooler? also, what about redline transmission fluid? any thought on that?

 

the mod is free if you unplug it, few bucks if you hook it up to a micro switch according to the directions

 

how much HP do you get from it?

 

There is no HP gain, all it does it boost the line pressure and makes the trans shift faster.

DO NOT use at part throttle, this is a WOT mod only.

 

yeah, ive read the part about using it only at WOT. but what kinda of gains can i expect to get out of a 96 auto? and to hook it up to a manual switch in my cabin, does it matter which wire i cut and put onto the switch? JIME, if you could explain how to hook a manual switch in a little more detail, id appreciate it...thanks

 

Check here.

https://maxima.org/forums/general-maxima-discussion/285482-davis-carchip-ex-anybody-use.html

 

i read the instructions a million times. with the switch i have, do i just hook the wire with no stripe up to the power, and the wire with the stripe up to the ground, and leave the ACC part of the switch alone?

 

You are using one of those $%&*@#$ lighted switches.

1. You should just be using a single pole switch with only two connectors.

2. However if you want to use that lighted one, forget about the ground, that is just there to make the circuit to ground to make the light come on. You cannot do that in this case because you are not working with 12v like you do in most auto switch setups.

3. Just hook one wire to ACC and the other to power.

4. I dont understand your stripe and no stripe question. You should have cut just one of the wires going to the drop resistor and then connected one wire to each end and run them to the switch. Doesn't matter which end you hook where.

 

im sort of confused with steps 3-4...when you say cut ONE wire, would i have to run two seperate wires off the one i cut from the resistor to the switch?

 

You got it. When you cut ONE wire going to the drop resisitor, you now have TWO ends. Connect your two separate wires to each end and run them to the switch. Thats it.

 

is there two wires per wire that goes to the DR?

 

No.

There are two wires going to the DR.
Cut one of them, you now have two ends.
Connect a wire to each end and run them to the switch.
Thats it.

 

You say this but you also say use at WOT only, not part throttle. Is there a reason for this? Sounds like you're saying full line pressure (fast shifting) at full throttle saves wear but full line pressure at part throttle increases wear. Explain?

Also, anyone know how to do this on a 2003 Honda Accord with 5-speed automatic?

 

At WOT, full line pressure shifts fast (much faster than without the DR). But, because of the HP you are using its not a super jerk or anything, it just shifts fast. Because of that there is less wear and tear on you clutches.

At part throttle with full line pressure you are using way less HP and the transmission shifts much much faster than at WOT so its almost like an instant BANG. I wasn't suggesting it increases wear at part throttle it is just waaaay to harsh and would probably lead to breaking something because of the severity.

BTW I do not know of any other manufacturer that uses the drop resistor setup, but there may be. I would be interested to know as well.

 

i just got done with the DR mod, and you're right, its not a super jerk where my car squeals into second, it just jerks and feels A LITTLE faster. i dont know, easy enough to try and see if it worked. thanks for all the help with it