it actually took me 2 hours to complete the whole thing. because:

1. i couldn't find my hood stick (sprayed painted broom stick), i think i lost it at norcal dyno meet so i used my rear tie-bar as subsitute (ghetto i know).
2. lost my pivot socket, very ****ed off, home depot trip #1, $10
3. decided to relocate the knock sensor according to nismo14, so had to run back to orchard hardware supply and bought a super long 12mm bolt w/ washers.
4. attempted other places to relocate but couldn't find any better, so here's what i have right now:



i torqued it to exactly 20ft/lb. reset the ECU. and went out for test drive. now i'm kinda scared to go WOT cuz the car really pulls, no lag or whatsoever. throughout the 20 minutes of driving, the performance stayed very consistent. i say that location worked out pretty well.







lastly...my hands are full of blood, my cylinders are red, and i got some blood on my throttle cable. but it's definetly worth it!

 

btw nismo14, can u explain why that location did not work too well for you?

(i did not do your sentra firewall relocation)

 

why'd u relocate it? I'm about to do mine too. Can I get a link to the write up you used? Any other advice u can give me?

 

relocating = no more gettin hand-cut

it's just for easier access.

 

So your not running the resistor?

 

nope! not anymore

 

well the place you have it at now is not good because it detects the sound of the fuel injectors as knock, which is not good. the firewall location works much better (in my experience) because it doesnt detect any errant pinging like sounds... i've got it on the firewall and have no ill effects so far..

Petertheeater look on my homepage for more info

 

but so far i haven't heard any knock yet...

 

thx nismos14, i think i'll do wat you did. But just outta curiosity, how much did you get ur KS for ricefob, and how much should I pay for a new one?

 

You should run premium all hte time now(even though you should be all th time), because I don't think it is VERY accurate on the intake manifold.

 

When reloacating the knock sensor to the firewall will it still be able to detect knock at all? If not, then what is the difference from relocating it and using the resistor to fool the ECU?

 

would the firewall detect any knock, is there any hp dir=fference from just relocating the ks?

 

The OEM location is the best location if you desire a functional KS. Relocating it near the fuel injectors will confuse it because the injectors are very noisy. Locating it on the firewall will render it useless because it has to be attached to the engine to hear anything.

Our cars do not use the same signal processing as the newer Nissans. We do not have as much (if anything) to gain from relocating a fully functional KS. This works well for guys will new Sentras and stuff, but nor for us.

The whole point of a KS is for it to detect any knock (even if the driver cant hear it). This lets the ECU run as much timing advance as possible.

 

How do I know if I have a correctly functioning KS?

 

So in actuality... by putting the KS on the firewall, you are HURTING your engine more. You probably feel a little more power, because your KS isnt sensing any detonation, and not PULLING timing, when it should be. Therefore, you will not lose as much power as before(your feeling of power being "replenished"), BUT you will lose some, from the resistance of the detonation, and also your engine will be taking a beating if you are running lean/using horrible gas.

 

that is assuming knock is present.

 

Hi Guys,
I have been working as a design engineer for over 10 years and I think you guys are crazy for wanting to relocate your knock sensor to anyplace other than where the engineers at Nissan intended it to go.

A knock sensor is a piezoelectric transducer (ie. accelerometer). It is designed to sense vibration within a specified frequency bandwidth. Nissan engineers mounted the sensor specifically in the block between the two cylinder banks as this is ideal location to sense knocking vibration.

By relocating the sensor to the firewall, it will not pick up any knocking vibrations from the engine due to both the dampening effect of the engine mounts and vibrational attenuation from the increased mounting distance from the cylinders.

If you are planning on mounting your knock sensor on the firewall, save yourself some money and use a 500-620 kOhm resistor instead. They both provide the same amount of engine protection (eg. none)

IMHO a few cuts and scrapes on your hand is well worth the engine protection that a properly functioning and installed knock sensor gives.

Sorry for the harangue, I just felt like I needed to put my $.02 in.

 

so most of you are suggesting put it back where it came from?

 

just asked an engineer about this who's into cars about this and he said YUP that guys right!

 

Yes, thats assuming there is knock. Why would you relocate the KS to the firewall anyway?

 

the ks is useless in the location i have it in, yes thats true. it doesnt detect knock in this location either, which is fine by me because i am taking the best precautions possible, i know there is knock that is inaudible, but almost every motor knocks to a certain degree regardless of tuning knock sensors and etc. so im not too worried and this was a temporary fix but i'm thinking i might just stick with it, i dont know. i have a new harness just waiting to be installed just not sure if i want to do it or not we'll see.

 

did you get any better hp or tq? did you get to a dyno, if not please do so and let us know how it went, then you can decide

 

Why would he gain any power fom relocating the KS. Putting it on the firewall or anywhere else is just as dumb as running the resistor. You have no guarantee that all the precautions you are taking are enough. You can run 93+ octane 100% of the time and you still have a chance of getting knock.

 

the gain of power is from the loss of power he had from the malfunctioning KS, its not a gain persay its more like a re-gaining of the lost power

*edit* i don't see where he stated he GAINED power, care to point that out?

 

I really need to pull the codes from my ECU because I'm 99% sure that my ks is dead. I'm not really scared about running the resistor for a bit to just see how the car drives, and I was wondering if anyone has some directions of how it should be wired. If I'm not mistaken, the harness, when unplugged should have two pins, (or female connectors) and the resistor would go between the two? right?.. Sorry about going off topic but I've been meaning to find out about this for a long time now.

 

just letting u know, the current location gave me 25mi/gallon when the new KS was installed with 1/2 tank left. i usually get 20mi/gallon, and i noticed my car doesn't lag too much. i can go easier on the throttle and pick up the speed really well.

i will keep this thread posted regarding the difference between new knock sensor vs. knock sensor of the two following area:

1. gas mileage difference
2. WHP/WTQ difference (i will go back to dyno soon with UDP and b-pipe)

 

Most likely you had a faulty KS before. So right now, it doesnt matter if you put the new KS on your firewall, or in your glove compartment. because its either not picking up knock because it cant "hear" it due to the location, or its not really there. Either way, it will NOT pull timing, because it doesnt sense knock. Thats good for your MPG and power, BUT if theres knock, your KS wont know it, and your engine will keep detonating itself to death because theres nothign to retard the timing.

 

Where did I say someone gained power? I was replying to the post above mine.

HappyRice, it's great that you get better gas mileage but realize that the KS can't detect knock.

 

yae ur right my mistake.